Nice work 👍🏻

What is it ?

Thank you ❤️

Nice work. It’s coming along nicely 👍🏻

All dogs do it my staffie the same but English bully ones special

Thanks David! You have made it very simple to check end float! Really appreciate you taking your time to explain what to do when rebuilding our transmissions!

David enjoyed your videos! Where can I buy the rebuild kit, and the idler and 1st gear hub, I need synchros, bearings , springs and small bearings for hubs? Best regards

Good job do your model is with a AMT CONFORTMATIC transmission ? Thanks for your answer

Thanks for the video..good demo..I would build a wooden deck floor

Your Gloves look like mine.

It’s coming along really nicely. Looking forward to your next video. Have a great Christmas and all the best for the new year.

Ok aku suka

Thank you so much VERY helpful.

Wow I thought my pulley was chipped 🤯 lol

My 803 decided to leak from the middle plug into the unsealed dipstick hole, left me in a pickle so cheers for the video.

Like that, and? We will find that the engine is spinning but not if it is doing its job correctly. In fact, it's a different way of placing the tail on the cherry.

Check to waste time ... The actuator also has 2 position sensors inside. If a sensor does not work 100% there are problems with jerks and other 'joys'. If that sensor does not work at all it displays 3 lines and the rest is silence. If the actuator position is out of adjustment then it jerks and in time it perforates the actuation lever. After it is drilled it gives 3 lines. Sensors are encapsulated inside the electric motor and transmit to the engine computer (MEG for gasoline) the position of the actuator rod to be able to actuate the gear change servomotor. So the actuator works in vain, it is necessary for the ECU to know the position of the rod.

further things you can do is to pin the crank float shim using screws of the same material and shot peen the connecting rods. balance the crank with flywheel and clutch assembly together and use tri metal bearing shells. these things including along with the oil passage drill out will make a flawed engine a bit less nerve wracking.

CHEERS from AUSTRALIA

BL could have just upgraded the crank to five main bearings, but of course, they didn't.

Don't forget to also drill out the main bearing shell, you don't need to drill the crankshaft journal.

Hi David, thank you for posting this, I am a long way off looking at my engine but is very useful to know and when the time comes may follow your gearbox guide too

It’s coming along nicely mate. 👍🏻

I think the lock nut at the bottom also needs two rings…

A guy that had a KZbin channel called living with a classic did a bit about lowering a midget

What about a giant cargo net like stretched across and attached to tubes either side with hooks and cable ties as you do go in and out there.are you still using it happily 😊

I'm about to fix a new one of these garages up over the next few weekends and was wondering if using good quality pipe insulation on the areas that press on the tarpaulin corners on the roof.. only short pieces like 6" or so.. I've noticed that second hand ones for sale on eBay have small rips and wear on these areas after a few years of use. What do you think?🤔

Great series of videos. I'm currently replacing the head on my own A35, so I am constantly consulting your videos along the way. They have been a great help, Thank You!

Ours used to do the same and the more we laughed the more it seemed to encourage him to carry on 🤣🤣

Ours used to do exactly the same thing 🤣

Judging by that waistline he’s had plenty of P I E.

Brilliant totally brilliant

You need to say what car it is at least.

Thanks for making this video - great 👍

The seal on the upper large concave seems too shallow, as if it will not seal before it hits the housing. Also, in order to center the jet, the lower adjustment spring should be removed temporarily to align the jet on the plunger before tightening it to the dash pot housing. Once aligned, it gets tightened and the jet is pulled out and the spring is reinstalled and adjustment nut is adjusted to its initial adjustment as you said here.

Thanks for a genuine review I will put an American car in one,

Hi David, I just want to see these videos are great! I just bought my high-roof Fiat Doblo and am very excited to get it started. Thank you for all the helpful information!!

Thanks for the video, very useful. Would you though know how to change the carbon brushes in the actuator motor? As I've just needed to take the actuator apart for greasing etc. I thought I would take a look at the carbon brushes, and they did cause a bit of a problem once, so I'd like to replace, but having trouble getting to them. Any more info would be much appreciated.

I was lost before I saw this video, thanks very much for a very descriptive account on getting the job done

Ps the timing is spot on

Hi mate. I’ve been a mechanic for 35 years and I’m actually pretty stumped on something here. I worked on just about everything there is trucks buses cars and never really come across a problem. However, I have a smart for two Sam engine that you are in the video with, compression valves camshaft all good. I have 12 V to each power pack. New fuel injectors are at work. Also spark from the power pack checked with spark plugs that are sparking against the engine. There is no reason why number three cylinder is not firing have you any ideas on this,? regards Gareth

Hi there that panel looks good where did you get that from as i need some for my project. cheers.

Good solid job there. 👍🏻

Hi Boz, thank you for this info, can't get it anywhere else. Did you finish the smart 450 project?

Definitely take your time with that section. There’s quite a lot going on in such a small area. I found this part to be quite tricky when I did mine. Good work 👍🏻

Today order one 598£

Hi part number ? Plz

Hi David are you going to be welding the curve under the rear lights. I don’t know what that part is called or leaving it flat.

Great analysis David. Just an aside...as it's a sports car I'm guessing one of the former owners was a boy racer and enjoyed dropping it back to first gear rounding corners thinking he was Juan Fangio. Unfortunately, straight cut non synchro gears don't like that treatment. Similarly throwing the car into reverse while it's still moving forward does wonders for both reverse gear and it's idler. It's a pity about havng to throw the whole cluster gear out due to one element (the damaged straight cut first gear) being integral to the part. You're definitely the go to guy for rebuilding these transmissions. 😎👍

Thanks David, great to see what was wrong with the old gearbox. That’s a proper hole in the casing. Your expertise and high quality workmanship are invaluable. Not many people around who understand these like you do!