Hiya , are you buying an original part, if not, you may find it goes again. Also did this happen in exceptional heat like we have been having recently. The stators are supposed to be cooled by the oil, so if there are excessive loads, like you have both H4 Bulbs on your headlights permenently on, and any other power devices, and the oil hasnt been changed for a while or the oil filter needs changing etc, these can all have an effect on the cooling, and the power across the stator coils generate heat and the heat can dissolve theinsulation. Just out of interest, how many miles did ir run before the stator went ? Also, I reccommend you fit a volt meter on the handle bars themselves and you can see the behaviour of the charging circuit when in use, this can give you a pre-alert to a failure and dead battery as a result.

Wow, thats great 😃. If you are not already a subscriber, feel free to subscribe as this is a tiny channel, and any help is appreciated. - Thanks and safe motoring. 👍

Thanks, feel free to subscribe as I'm trying to grow the channel. Let me know how you got on.

@@TELsBENCH Subscribed *

'Quando Quando Quando ' - Fantastic, you have an excellent recording voice !

Your welcome, glad they are of help. Please feel free to subscribe if you are not already a subscriber as I need all the help I can get to make the cannel grow. Thanks 😃

I've heard that comment before and although I cannot prove or disprove that theory, I spend much of my life as an electronic engineer and we used to lab tests which included environment effects where extreme shifts took place between low and normal temperatue ranges and also extreme shifts between the two for example -30 to + 50 but not rapid changes as they dont usually occur naturally it takes time for the vehicle to warm up from freezing conditions. It was rare to get joint failures on good quality lead free solder unless you mix the two in the same joint as the expansion contraction varies between the two materials. In terms of the Focus MK2 03-10 at least in my model, the culprit is more likely to be the cable that thing is not supported properly it just hangs in space, although the connector has a retainer on it, the jolts which come from speed bumps etc, or just steeering corners, are probably enough over time to cause the cracks. The evidence on this is kinda supported by the fact that the cracks only appeared on the connector ends, not in the middle. Thats my theory anyway - Hope you liked the video, and if you are not s subscriber, please feel free to subscribe as I need all the support I can get😉

Thanks for sharing

​. Many thanks, just to let you know after doing all the reprogramming you explained the cheap replacement key won't actually start the engine is there something missing like a chip within the plastic ? The key was cut onto the blank shaft The original key works fine . 2010 focus. Much appreciated. Brian

The key and cutting of it itself has nothing to do with the programming of the fob, at least not for a Ford Focus MKII. It is essential that you program both fobs at the same time. As explained in the video, if you program one, and then program another at a later time, the first one will not work. Watch the end of the video again where I do the programming and give a second warning about this. I have only just seen this comment, so apologies for the late reply.

Thank you. 😃 - If your not a subscriber, then please feel free to subscribe as I need all the support I can get.

Thanks for watching!

Glad you found it useful, feel free to subscribe if you are not already, as every subscriber, Like etc helps.

grazie mille - Subscribe 👍

Yeah, well sometimes we are too busy with life, happens to me somtimes. You'll pick it up when you're ready I guess.

Cheers

Thanks for watching!

Hi Ray, Welcome to the channel. Glad you liked it 😀 👍

OK Its a standard 34 pin Flat cable ( same size as the old 3.5 inch floppy disk drives use.) The Connectors are IDC connectors. Search for "34 pin IDC Connectors" on Google. You will find them along with a number of suppliers, or you can try Amazon, or Ebay etc. Hope that helps.

Yes, you are correct. The mistake was in the reference to the legend. I have cut the reference to the legend out which is about 3 seconds which now makes the statements correct on the example without the incorrect reference to the legend.

I had never heard of that game until you posted. yeah you would have to look really hard you are right. Seems like its another memory game as well . But the lights are out on forks I wanna say. Does it make sounds as well as flash lights ?

@Cianmoriaty7345 . For flashing new versions of the firmware, yes you are right. But there are others who want to create variants of it and may want to be able to debug it that is where this interface comes in. Most ordinary mortals will not need this but some will.

Yes, there is. I assume this is a late mod. This is between pins 7 and 8 which are Green and Blue grounds, so assume that there was a production issue with some boards and they needed to be joined to provide that. No need to worry.

Welcome to the channel Ray, thank you for the comment.🙂

I am aware, but thanks very much for your comment.👍

Hey @xoxRAVERxox1, thanks for the compliment on the vid. It's a really annoying problem isn't it. Good luck on the weekend. - Cheers TEL 👍

Hi there. I dont know how much of the video you watched, but I do address this concern early on the video in as much as I also would have preferred a HDMI as well . My assumptions as to why they settled on VGA are . . . 😊 * It fits with the retro profile and HDMI adapters are very cheap. * It keeps the price point low. * Some people still use VGA monitors especially in the groups who are likely most interested in it. * It may have resulted in more complexity on the board for very little ultimate benefit. However these are assumptions, and you would have to ask the designers, Bernard at the 'Byte Attic' as to what the actual reason was. I'm using a converter which cost me only £5, so although its a little annoying, I'm willing to put up with it. I hope that helps. Cheers TEL

@@TELsBENCH Thanks, I must overheard that. VGA makes real no sense today.

hobbyist retro board designers don't want to pay the multi-thousand dollars licensing fees for licensing HDMI

That is very true, good point.

@@TheSulross USB-C or Thunderbolt ?

Cool🙂

Ive had a root around for information regarding any benchmarking between the two and cannot find any. Noel's retro Lab did a benchmark against a lot of computers, but the MEGA65 was not on the list. If it was £60 like the Agon Light I might be tempted to buy one and do some. testing. - I actually like the physical arrangement for the Mega65, but I guess it all comes as part of the premium price tag.

It's a very acrid smell isn't it. I found that it takes several weeks for the smell inside to fully dissipate even if you thoroughly clean the PSU and case, it lingers for some time if you get close enough to smell the case. Good luck with the repair/recap , it will be fine. ;D

@@TELsBENCH i now need to find someone to service it rofl. it was horrid ahhah

You can do it yourself actually. You can just remove the power supply obviously with the power off and if you have some alcohol swabs you can run that over the PSU bay and let it dry. As for the power supply itself, if you dont have the tools and experience to do it, you can simply remove the burnt out capacitor, and clean the board with some alcohol and the inside of the PSU case if it has infused itself into that ( Assuming it is one of the RIFA caps which has blown ), then you can still use the machine with the cap removed. These RIFA caps are only to prevent electrical noise from coming out of the machine and wont affect the operation of the machine itself. However, if you want someone to service the power supply for you, you can call 'RetroClinic' assuming you are in the UK and they will either optionally send you a set of capacitors to recap it, as per my video, or will likely offer to do it for you for a price. Hope that helps.

Hey that's great news, if you are not already a subscriber. why not subscribe and get notified of videos related to retro and other stuff I am doing on the channel. ;D

An interesting nugget there, I always wondered about that, but didnt bother to investigate. Thanks ;D

There is a fair list of world wide distributors of the "Agon Light" product now, around eight or so I think last time I looked. Olimex's version is different to the original from a hardware POV but it still does basically the same job as the original. Its all good for the consumer in the end as everyone ( creators/manufacturers ) are competing to bring something new, and maybe innovative and or cheaper to market and its an everlasting evolution I suppose. I was looking at new version of the Aquarius the other day which has been re-engineered, not really like the AL/2 is it more a revamp of the original as far as I can tell and accepts the original cartridges, but they have a few nice features like being able to connect to the network out of the box and get updates directly instead of having to download them. Not the same as I say but these kind of modern day features should really be an expectation rather than a wish or an add-on. Having said that the price points are vastly different, and thats one of the reasons that AL2 although still in a relatively early stage of its evolution is still an incredibly good buy IMHO

@@TELsBENCH I am new this, only recently coming across the AgonLight2. You say the hardware is different from original, in what way please and does it have an effect better/worse/neither?

There are some minor changes. So on the original, both the power and the Keyboard has a USB Type A connector, but on the AL2, the power connector is a USB Type c which fits in with standards power and auxilliaries should not have the same connector. Additionally, some changes were done to the PCB tracks and I beleive some protection added against surges with surge protector diodes. Plus a few minor alterations. In short AL2 was an improvement over the original. If you go to the 'Byte Attic' I think he does a video on the differences, but I beleive I got them all or most of them. In short you will not be disadvantaged by buying the AL2.

Thank you! Cheers!

Many many thanks

Thank you Igor. I've had this game in my mind for a long time, and it occurred to me that this would be as good an opportunity as any to make it a reality, and share it.

If you are referring to the drops I put into unstick the board, it Was Isopropyl Alcohol. Please do like and subscribe as this is a small channel trying to grow and cant do that without subscribers. 😀👍

@@TELsBENCH thank you very much, I’m currently experiencing the same problem, I have to give it a whack on the dashboard for the error message to disappear, the performance and driving of the car has not changed in any way except for the sporadic messages on the dashboard, your video might just save my life, I’ll give it a go this coming weekend! Thank you

Great, I wish you good luck and hope you solve the issue, when you have removed the two torque screws under the cluster of instruments, then get your fingers above the black cluster shroud and pull it down a bit and it should just come out ok. The cable connector has a latch on it , so just flip that over to release it.

Thanks D. I appreciate the comment, dont forget to like and subscribe as it all helps the cause :) Cheers

For the two screws at the base of the cluster in the care, you will need a TORQUE T25 Bit. This can be found in any motor tool outlet or online. For me I used a inexpensive multi tool set which I use for general repairs which has an extension from the ratchet of about 6 inches and also an additional flexible extension which can bend and then the T25 on top of that to easily reach through the Steering Wheel or the the side of it and into the two screws. For taking the Cluster apart, just flat blade screwdrivers really, its a bit fiddly really for some parts, you will need a soldering iron with a reasonably fine tip and some solder and some alcohol to clean the board after soldering if that is what is wrong with your cluster. Thanks for watching, I hope this helps you.

I will get it done later this week :) thank you I will update you with more, is it possible car does not start because of this? I mean i charged the battery full and everything is on but engine wont rev I after first try battery is drained to 10 % could be the starter also?@@TELsBENCH

I cannot answer that question on your repair as I dont provide advice in general only on my video. What I do know its that failures caused by this particular issue illustrated in the video can cause actual physical effects on the way the engine runs, in my case it reduced the ability to accelerate normally and also the speedo dropped out completely at one point momentarily. When my partner was driving it I was told that on one occasion she was unable to start it. As for draining the battery, I dont know but if the starter motor was jammed with power applied, that may drain the battery. Or perhaps the battery is failing as well. I wish you the very best of luck in your repair.

Thank you so much 😀

Hi ML, Thank you for your comment, allways appreciated.🙂 TEL

Glad you enjoyed it

I was more of an Acorn user BITD, but I have heard this from quite a few people. I might look into this and may do a video on it. Thanks for your reply.

Glad you enjoyed it