Ouch

Gotta go with Hi Yo Silver Away

i have a key with a slash through it on my dash jeep wont turn over ,anyone have any idea what that symbol means and how to fix it

If you replace the fan clutch, get the fan clutch for a ZJ with the 5.2. This is a popular fan clutch upgrade for the XJs with the 4.0… it’s literally no different than the WJ with the 4.0!

Which tire size are you running?

I fixed my 2004 WJ by purging air out of the engine block bleeder for the coolant. Opened it and ran it until all air bubbles stopped. No more overheating.

show a girl how to jack it up

Nice job.

Great video. Thank you for the tripod. Everything you’re saying is exactly the same conclusions I am coming to. I think I will do the 3” just on your recommendation

I thought the roof could only hold 150 lb

Do you think p0601 code is my computer or is there a fix to it?

Check the harmonic balancer. Jeep could over heat if the pulley goes out. It usually gets missed when checking overheat issues.

Bro make sure your using the correct power steering fluid that is specifically made by mopar, 4.0 & 4.7 have hydro fans, the PS pump powera the pulley to the ac it's connected

Park is the only gear that that has 0 line pressure r n d 2 1 all have line pressure. You will get a wrong reading... Get it hot and check it in park only read the stick

My 2002 4.7L WJ actually has a PS317 so now I'm curious which one of us is right.

Mine was a thermostat that was stuck shut

Like your videos! So, how would I proceed? Time for a diagnostic deep dive and total cooling system flush. First get an infrared thermometer and with the cooling system hot map the radiator temp readings systematically top to bottom and left to right. Any colder spots would indicate a plugged passage. Then drain the complete cooling system, including engine block and heater core. See if any crud comes out. Remove the thermostat and test it for correct operation in a pan of water on the stove. At which temp does it open? Check your water pump, any play and does it turn freely? You might need to remove it to check the impeller. Check the radiator hoses, are any pinched or plugged? If all the above seems OK or has been fixed, run a radiator flush through the system, drain and back flush till totally clean. Drain completely, maybe run some air through it too, then fill with HOAT coolant. With a failed head gasket you should see coolant loss.

cylinder head when JKJK man hope its something simple WJ life

I would start with the radiator cap. Replace that and then if you still continue to have the issue I would suggest the flush and a water pump. Make sure you flush it well because it might be buildup in your radiator. As a last resort, I would attempt to replace the radiator because it might be some type of corrosion that's causing your coolant to change colors. Appearing as a clog which would impede the flow causing an overheat condition.

1- I see you have the 4.0 engine in that WJ.👍 2- According to the owners Manual, the 4.0 Engine in WJ's is supposed to be "HOAT (Hybrid Organic Additive Technology)". I Use Zerex G05. It is Yellow Color. It should not be mixed with any other type of coolant... ...That being said, Don't worry if the G05, (Yellow) coolant, got mixed with the green color or a different color that says it can be mixed with Ethylene-Glycol type coolants. It won't kill the 4.0... ...But, the G05 Antifreeze/Coolant is made for 5 year coolant changing 'maintenance intervals', but if it gets mixed with other Ethylene-Glycol Mixture type coolant, it will not last as long before it needs to be flushed and changed... ...Also, some other coolant types chemistry can cause excessive 'oxidation' and other undesirable things in the cooling system... 2- The coolant color in that funnel after it got warm, circulating and stirred-up looks like it has lots of rust, (oxidized iron from the cast iron block and head), which is sort of like 'silt' in a fast flowing flash-flood in the cooling system and prevents the coolant from having enough 'surface-area' contact with the water-jackets and also tends to clog the radiator and heater core. Rust in the cast iron block and head will build-up over time, particularly when it's mixed or not changing it after ~ 5 year intervals or more often... ...The tiny rust particles weigh more than the coolant and when not being mixed and agitated from flowing will always settle to the lowest place they can get to and stay there until they get dislodged. some will stick to the radiator and heater core and restrict the flow and minimize the surface area contact with the coolant. There are several different techniques for flushing the cooling system. I will give a Heads-UP here: The oddball 7/16", (I think that is the size), square-hole Drain-Plug on the side of the engine block on the 4.0 is a major PITA to reach and remove and the threads may already be too corroded and it may be seized in there anyway. It is located on the left side of the engine block very close to the catalytic converters 1 and 2. it takes a special tool and-or square 'male' driver socket to remove the OEM one.... ...Because I already had the condenser and radiator removed, I removed the water pump and thermostat housing and used a pressure-washer to thoroughly get as much accumulation of rust and all the coolant out. I used compressed air to force as much of the leftover water out of the bottom of the block before reassembling things. I also cleaned the 'scum' buildup from the coolant reservoir. My G05 yellow Coolant is still very clean 2 1/2 years later.

They are not greasable. Won't last maybe a year or two. Get grease control arms!

I'm doing as you do, I have the same issues too.

Is there a site where you can look up different car manufacturers to connect to the correct wire?

My Wj had a clogged heater core causing overheating issue

Enjoyed the video and advice

Maybe check your thermostat.

start with cap and flush out the cooling system along with the heater core. can definitely tell coolant is mixing with something inside the system.

Got tired of the electric fans going out. Changed to a mechanical fan and it has been trouble free for two years.

My jeep had overheating issues for a while, turned out to be a pinhole in the heater hose above thermostat. It leaked coolant in the morning when stop for coffee, but didn't leak the rest of the day after the engine heated up enough to dry the tiny amount of coolant 👍

check the oil. Do you have oil pressure? Could be oil pump! If not that head gasket is starting to go letting oil in and will get worse in time... starting to BLOW sir!!!

So I have a 99 WJ with a 4.7 v8. Over 200K miles on it. I trail ride it. Honesty, I did a complete cooling system dump on it. Bigger all aluminum radiator. eBay. New hoses, belt , tensioner, water pump, thermostat and metal housing and the electric fan motor as well as the fan clutch. Those parts I get from rock auto or parts geeks. Like I said I do take it off-road. There is a peace of mind knowing the entire cooling system is new. There are guys that will say I missed the heater core. It was replaced to. The evaporator s-t the bed so I replaced the heater core at the same time. Also I’m not sure the 4.0 but the 4.7 has a bleeder plug that you have to remove when filling the system with coolant. Again I’m not certain about the 4.0 but the 4.7 uses a HOAT coolant. The color with that coolant is usually orange. It looks like you have a factory style radiator in your WJ. If it is the original radiator the bottom rows could be plug up or partially plugged. If that is the case. It could idle for hours and not over heat. It will usually overheat when driving, because of higher rpm and engine loads with a reduced coolant flow. Good luck to you. Great channel. Nice WJ.

I had a slight overheating issue years ago. Turned out my radiator fan would not go into high speed mode. The fan would turn on, but not engage in high mode. Replaced the fan, good to go.

Have your ever used some sort of stop leak? It could be plugging up your radiator

I did a complete flush mine had the same green then / orange when i started to do work on mine. So i did a complete flush a couple of times with distilled water and i ran a flush cleaner too. Oh i also replaced the water pump mine was full of garbage, but now she runs great. Also the reservoir could have a bunch of crud in the bottom too so watch out for that when filling back up after the flush. You coolant did look really dirty from when you where burping it mine pretty much clear yellow. Coolant Used: Zerex G-05

I would replace the radiator cap. It's cheap and easy.

If the coolant is changing you might want to have a shop test it for a bad head gasket cuz the could mean your oil and coolant are mixing and that could be a bad head gasket

Change the water pump and do a coolant flush

I found use the kit on the overflow bottle with radiator cap on . Coolant won't be a problem and if head gasket has gorn it will go into the overflow bottle because of pressure .Gases also will go into the bottle

Why did you put it on the radiator instead of the header tank?

I had the same problem with mine .It was just a radiator cap lol

A compression test will show if you have a blown head gasket.

Check compression

I had issues with my fan after I replaced it with a new one on my ‘04. I added the clutch fan and I haven’t had a problem since. I had already done the head gasket, water pump & thermostat before the overheating issue so I was pretty sure it wasn’t any of those things. Good luck with it bro!

Got my WJ overheated because the radiator cap. Try the new one yet?

What r those wheels called bro? They badass and the headlights

The first few years the wj head know to Crack.. when the jeep runnig use a temp gun n see if the rad is working..

Is it street legal?

Have you heard of Cylinder leak down test? I would do that for a head gasket. Start off by getting a compression tester and then use the hose in a leak down kit to get the correct spark plug threading. Then, you have to take the valve stems out of the hose for the leak down test. If you want some pictures or some help let me know.

if it was ever run with straight water, it rusts inside and blocks the cooling ports of the engine. My engine recently blew up and when I took it apart it was completely rusted inside. Even though I changed water pump, thermostat, coolant flush, radiator, everything even added fan clutch,it would still overheat. I swapped in newer 4.0 and currently running strong!

247 transfer case is the best and only true 4wd jeep. It has diff lockers with varilock. Models with 242 tc are awd suvs with open diffs and usseles.