@stevelewis2986 I can appreciate your point and will agree that there are probably more applications that your suggestion is better for than this one. I did specifically choose the Evaporust here because I did not want the risk of the acid continuing to work on the gray iron, after the rust was eaten. Increasing the tolerance in lifter bores or other critical parts could create more work or maybe an oil pressure issue if gone unnoticed. I can safely leave it in the Evaporust for a week or two and confidently know that ONLY the rust will be eaten. Hand tools and other items with less critical tolerance mat be overkill, but I like it for this application. Your feedback is appreciated and insightful for thousands of uses!

@AlexKost-tq6bj I think we're aligned. Kinda like what is explained @ 9:30 mark?

@@PaulsProTips maybe? Looks like you ran the ground wires back from the lights, but you still did a frame ground up near the tongue? Why not just connect the car's ground to the trailer lights ground wire, and have no trailer frame ground at all?

@@kc0rock thanks. All Amazon sourced. I'll work on some links.

@gkk2001 Good luck with your lift and thanks for the feedback!

@@buckstopshere7305 I don't know if you live in Minnesota or Maryland, so how cold is hard for me to predict. In situations where cold is a factor, a thinner ATF is often used rather than type 32 hydraulic oil.

@ good point! Thanks for answering.. we haven’t had a real cold winter in Cincinnati for a while so far I haven’t had to insulate 🤞

@72442conv full disclosure, the black part is the HF tool and the red part is a "duck head mod" I bought off Amazon. I paid about $60 for the HF part and about $80 or $90 for the mod. Still, for the cost and the footprint, I'm satisfied.

@@AL_goTrader thank you!

@@rogfromthegarage8158 it's hard for me to discourage, and any car guy that has one is extremely fortunate. But if space is a true premium, it may not be ideal. For some, it will enhance your space. Only you can decide good luck!

@@t45-i8c thanks for the comment. I should have spelled that out more clearly. If you look carefully, my chains are pre-crossed. I don't ever uncross them, so it looks like I'm hooking the in parallel, but it is deceiving in the video.

@raymondmunoz1094 this is the style switch I user and modified an enclosure for it. www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-71007-220V-Paddle-Switch/dp/B00KPEEPAW/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.c4XeMEagTRBg6vpKVhdDXIkEZf-YMYWj28lif7VvFys-QruObRguc20fSOixpIPlXdQZ4oEfivwqPEy4GFlWwvSKTujflze0fGKP04PtTgVaxoT7rYgX6NCjE_WUSZZ4dQiZogyDrPGV6hblWaByXWQxx0Q09Xdrl4LNCk_igCQNnfjZvMm4o3gT2WlNQIdJ4FJoJPHkRLY25DNABC62Dg.2zBlaAKZD6THJzxSkOg9-E4C94B1DncWf8p2BUOONlI&dib_tag=se&keywords=shutoff+switch+240v&qid=1723645458&sr=8-17

​@PaulsProTips thanks for the quick response How did you wire the start/stop switch to make it work with the lift? Isn't the switch single phase and the lift is 2 phase?

@raymondmunoz1094 I live near Philadelphia where there is a part of the city that actually has 2 phase power. Typically though, there is only single phase and three phase. Single phase can be 120v with just a hot and a neutral as well as 240v which is two hots - sometimes with a neutral. I ran 240v with 10/3 wire from a 30 amp double poke breaker. The 10/3 is 3, 10 gauge insulated conductor wires with an uninsulated ground wire. Most 240 single phase applications don't require a neutral, but if there happens to be a control circuit as part of the piece of equipment, it can ve needed, which is basically why I configured my set-up this way. Three phase systems commonly are 208/230v and 480v. There are some 277v applications too, but honestly, none of these would be common in residential spaces. Hope this helps!

@@PaulsProTips awesome okay And did you just bond one of the phases and use the neutral to use on your 120 volt lights and outlets?

@@raymondmunoz1094 I used one hot and a neutral for the 120v circuit. This is a single phase, 230v feed with 10/3 wire.

@matthewvanselow1979 thanks so much for the kind words! Yes, you can cut or remove the factory trailer plug and terminate it right in the ProPlug box. One criticism I've read is that PP harness is expensive. You can also simply add an second e d to the trailer plug you've just cut off and have an inexpensive solution! I wish you well on your trailer update.

Thanks Paul

On this block, I sprayed it down with WD-40 until I was ready to machine and paint it.

I do have some more robust trailers, but this is by far the easiest to manage. I can easily lift the tongue and walk it around my property. It hauls a golf cart great and have logged over 100k since this video was made. There are jobs where this isn't the best fit, but many where it is and I value it for how often it is the right choice. Plus, this video was my first on YT and has paid for the trailer several times over!

www.amazon.com/dp/B07KJN4RG1?ref=cm_sw_r_cso_sms_apin_dp_JJ0EJ8B19VCSHC3HHFWV&ref_=cm_sw_r_cso_sms_apin_dp_JJ0EJ8B19VCSHC3HHFWV&social_share=cm_sw_r_cso_sms_apin_dp_JJ0EJ8B19VCSHC3HHFWV&starsLeft=1&skipTwisterOG=1 I modified the drag chain a bit just to enable it to be installed easier and right at the lift attachment flex both directions.

I've used it for my dually, cars a s even motorcycles. Anyone with a lift is fortunate. I think the 11k is a standout in its class!

@@PaulsProTips The greaseable axles bushing used in the pulleys is a great safety feature of Advantage Lifts that sets them apart from those that used the failure prone sealed bearings. Farm and heavy equipment manufacturers have been using this system for 100 years.

I'll be doing the convex mirror this weekend! What size did you use? Currently I'll use cardboard when I think there is a chance for things to get messy, but maybe a matt is better. Can't always predict when you need it and having something there most of the time could be smarter. Thanks!

18" mirror other biggest that will fit.

These are good ideas too. You may have seen at the end, I do put bikes on the4 post. Your suggestion is a great one.

Well let's start by identifying what lift manufacturer you bought and the model.

If it is binding on the safety locks, they may require adjustment because they are either not retracting far enough or are not calibrated. The installation manual will tell you how to set them up.

Great eye! This is a 67 block, 275hp

Not sure how I could have been any more selective on where the solution worked. You may have a point, so can you recommend a technique you like to use?

It has held up great! Full disclosure, I put a lot of miles on this trailer. Probably 200k at this point. A few months back I actually wore out the coupler a d it cracked because it had gotten so thin. The trailer came off the ball, and the chains kept it attached to the truck, but when I stopped, the plastic box came in contact with my rear bumper. The plastic lost, but there wasn't a scratch on my truck. So the plastic box was a sacrificial material. I put the same box back on. The old one was water tight and perfect for several years!

You know we did!

Oh and if storing it in a plastic bag too

Thanks so much! Yeah I really treasure time spent doing car stuff with my dad. I did appreciate how cool shooting the video with him would be. Lucky it worked out so well. Really appreciate the comment!

It isn't specifically trailer wire. It's wire I had laying around that is good quality. I'm involved with pumps and controls, and this was just surplus wire from a job.

They are some great tips too! I appreciate the feedback. I regret not doing a great seal job on the deck of this trailer. It is a 2008 trailer and I bet by the 20 year mark, it will require a full deck replacement!