Hey Jim! I've used the right-angle attachment on a table top shoot with a toy that was like a motorized hamster ball. We put the lens right above the set floor, and I thought the director would want to be super low for the shot. It turned out, it was too low and we had to boom up a little. It'll get right down there for you. Keep in mind your camera is actually pointing straight down, so panning and tilting are a bit strange. Not as weird as you'd think though. I'll see if I have photos and your email address and send them to you.

Ha, you just have to clean them every once in a while. I don't have fingerprint issues, per se, but they get dusty, especially when working outside.

I stopped using my Movi Pro and only use Ronin 2 these days.

@@gfuterfas thank you for the reply. How come?

@@oakwoodcinematics934 R2 holds a wider range of camera builds, because it's stronger and can extend the tilt arms. I get asked to put heavier builds on there all the time, and it's much easier and faster with the Ronin 2.

@@gfuterfas do you see a ronin 3 coming out anytime soon? Would you recommend waiting? Also do you use a ready rig? What do you do for weight to make it less heavy?

@@oakwoodcinematics934 I have no clue what DJI is planning to release in the future. I do use a Ready Rig and highly recommend it, along with Cinemilled Spindles. I can't imagine working without a support vest. I also own a Walter Klassen Slingshot vest and a Flowcine GLink, but I still recommend the Ready Rig if you're starting out. It's excellent for 90% of shots, easy to use, and doesn't cost near as much.

I don't own an Armorman 3, so can't easily do a comparison. That said, I've used an Armorman 3 a little, since I worked on some of the promos for it, and it's no comparison. The GLink is way more stable.

@@gfuterfas thanks for your answer! Anyway, can you shoot sideways with g link?

@@airfilm_it I have another video about GLink that shows side tracking shots. The one that compares it to ready rig.

Thanks! Glad it helped.

They're excellent. So many new features have been added, and a few bugs have been addressed. I highly recommend them, and I know so many people who've tried mine and then went on to buy them for themselves.

@@gfuterfas Thanks Mate!

Hi! I have another, more thorough video that compares the GLink to my Ready Rig. This was a very fast test I did with my friend who has a Slingshot, and the camera battery was dying when we shot this, unfortunately, and I forgot to bring spares. 🤦🏻‍♂️ I find the stabilization of Slingshot and Ready Rig to be similar when it comes to footsteps though. The GLink is the closest I've gotten to Steadicam when it comes to stability and reduction of body movement. I've used the Armorman 3 briefly, and I did not find it as comfortable as the Ready Rig, Slingshot, or the GLink. I also didn't really get a big chance to see what I could do with it as a stabilizer, but I think the GLink is much better in this regard. There are more axes of stabilization, and the vest is much higher quality. I'm still waiting for an additional mid-back-pad that is coming for the GLink, which is where I'd like to have more support. Currently, I've done really long takes with the Ready Rig, over an hour long, and so far have maxed out at around 30 minutes with the GLink at a time, but I'm still getting used to it. Look for my other video comparing it to Ready Rig if you're really interested, or join the Facebook Group for Flowcine GLink Operators

@@gfuterfas Yes, I've watched almost all of your videos on this channel. keep doing it! you are very informative. I have a friend who also has a slingshot, I hope to make a comparison with armor man 3 this month. and thank you for your quick response. also I'm thinking of replacing it with g-link

@@TheSovich I would love to see that comparison video!

@@gfuterfas Thanks so much for these videos. I’m right on the edge of pre-ordering a GLINK. When you say maxed out in 30 minutes, where on your body do you start feeling pain/exhaustion vs the Ready Rig? My lower back isn’t in great shape and I really want to make sure I’m making the right decision with GLINK.

@@gfuterfas Man, now I’m wondering if I should go for the Walter Klassen instead… Thanks for the info!

Did you see my other video comparing it to footage from my Ready Rig?

Here's more footage with the GLink: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ioeXqHiIatRkjpI

Hey Stephan, I agree, Ready Rig holds up well, but I've been dissatisfied with the results I've been getting. I want my shots to be closer to Steadicam smooth, and I see a lot of footsteps and wobbles with the Ready Rig. It's fine until a director or DP calls you out on it, and there's not much you can do. I don't think even the Flowcine is perfect, but it's arguably more stable, and I think this footage shows the difference. There is a significant price difference, and there are still shots I'd need the Ready Rig for, so I'm not getting rid of it by any means.

@@gfuterfas what shots could the easy rig do that the Glink couldnt?

@@JitDawgBruhDang The Ready Rig can get the lens right above the ground, if you rig the gimbal underslung on the Cinemilled Pro Ring and angle the handles up toward you. I've used this mode to chase RC cars at their level, and I don't think I could do that on the GLink, even in the lowest mode. Also, I can hold the Ready Rig up for much longer than the GLink at the moment -- I had to do a 45-minute music set with a pretty heavy camera and zoom yesterday, and I opted for the Ready Rig because the GLink would have become impossibly uncomfortable after 10 minutes with that weight. Hopefully they're coming out with an additional back pad to solve this problem with the GLink, although I've tried mounting the GLink to the back of the Ready Rig vest, and it was more comfortable, and there's no carbon fiber tubes sticking forward to catch the back of the gimbal on the Ready Rig. I'd need to make a better dovetail, because eventually the GLink loosened up and twisted a little bit on the simple 3/8" bolt on the back of the Ready Rig.

@@gfuterfas Understood. And how much does that cost

@@JitDawgBruhDang GLink? Just under $12,000. Ready Rig? about $4000 fully-configured (plus a $1200 Cinemilled Ring if you want the versatility)

Well, this video is pretty old at this point and a lot of things have changed and evolved in my kit. I own a Paralinx Tomahawk 1:2 SDI video transmitter and receiver. It's no longer made, since Teradek basically took over that market at Vitec, but I still love it. It's been extremely reliable for the last 5 years, and I don't notice any delay from the wireless video. It's supposedly less than 1millisecond. I'd say 75% of my jobs bring their own wireless system, usually a Teradek 3000, and if I were to buy a system today, I'd look at the Vaxis for my personal kit. I can say that it's very nice having a reliable, decent-range wireless with at least two receivers for those times when Production can't get you something decent.

​@@gfuterfas I'm looking to shoot a short film. Since we are on a budget =) I'm not looking for the most impressive / slimmest device but one that has very low latency to pull focus. If you have any suggestions one something older that will do the trick please let me know. PS I didn't find your video boring. It was nice to see the organization that went into it.

I'm looking to shoot a short film in the next 3 months. Since we are on a budget =) I'm not looking for the most impressive / slimmest device but maybe one that has low latency to pull focus. Any suggestions on something older that will do the trick please let me know. PS I didn't find your video boring. It was nice to see the organization that went into it. Thanks again.

@@meatintaco2002 Maybe look for an older, used Teradek? Or rent a wireless kit from someone, which might be pretty inexpensive. I don't recommend the WiFi ones because they have a lot of delay. You want something with less than 1ms latency.

There is an option to switch to Majestic Mode, but not Kill. On the Movi, it's different than the Ronin 2, in that you have Majestic, Dual Op, or Kill modes, while the Ronin 2 has Follow, Free, FPV, and Recenter. In the new Inertia Wheels firmware, you can add a button to your Dashboard that's called "Majestic Defer", which can hand back Majestic control to the handheld operator if you want, which is sometimes very handy for resetting a shot or just putting the wheel input on pause when you don't want it. If you're using a Ronin 2, the new Inertia Wheels Firmware allows you to assign Free, Follow, or Recenter modes... but it takes up a button for each of them if you want to assign all of them. Future firmware should enable you to access additional banks of User Buttons by pressing the Power button once and cycling through them, which will enable you to have more than just the 4 buttons.

Because Algorithm.

Everyone has different settings they like. Here's what I typically like to use: Window set 2 or 3, Smoothing between 10-12. That works for me for handheld work, but I find everyone likes something a little different.

I haven't used the Atalses, but it shouldn't be a problem. They weigh much less than the Cooke Anamorphics, which I've used on Movi Pro many times. You'll probably need a little counterweight, and it may depend on the accessories you have for your Movi Pro. What matte box and filters will you be using? Lens motors? Those add weight to the front, which typically means you'll add more counterweight to the back if they're not super light.

Hey, sorry, I just now saw this comment. Probably not helpful three months on, but the Inertia's are very well-made, at least as solid as my Alpha Wheels. The Master Wheels are very well made also, although very expensive, and they only work with the Ronin 2, while these Inertias work with Movi, R2, and virtual systems like CineTracer. I've had these on many real-world production sets, and they hold up extremely well. I like that they don't weigh a ton and are easy to move around. I've always said, these gimbals are made to move, so we need to be kind of nimble with our wireless focus, video, and remote control. I couldn't justify spending money on the Master Wheels, especially since I work both Movi and R2 in my small fleet of gimbals, but also, you never know what's coming up next. These should also work with the new Ronin S2, which would be interesting to have a really small remote head in certain situations.

instablaster

Sorry, I periodically get this comment, but it sounds OK on my little laptop speakers. Maybe I speak too quickly? Is English your primary language? I don't think I can go back and fix it at this point, since I don't have a Premier subscription anymore after switching to FCPX. Also, this review is so old! I'm sure I have different opinions about the R2 now that I own one and have been using it for a few years.

Yes, you can assign it to a knob, and soon they should come out with an additional knob that can be attached to the wheels if you want it controlled separately. You can assign it in a couple of ways. There's a "Horizon" adjustment, which just trims the Roll either way, in case you want to hold a slightly different level. There's also Roll Rate, so you can do Roll moves at a specific rate without constantly turning the dial. And there's a "Roll Reset" button. I had a couple of bits of feedback on Roll control for Boyd, so we'll see if he's able to implement any of it, but I even put both Movi Pro and Ronin 2 into "Roll 360" mode, and was able to get continuous spins by controlling with the Inertia wheels.

Apologies. I get that comment a lot. It sounds OK on my little laptop, but I obviously work better with cameras and not sound. :) Thanks for watching.

Apologies! I swear it doesn't sound too loud to me, but you're not the first to comment this. I just mix it based on my tiny laptop speakers, though, so maybe it's different in your speakers or EQ?

I've only had it a few days, and I have a list of suggestions for firmware improvements and additions, but considering how new they are, I wasn't expecting them to be so solid. I'm hoping to test the signal range soon, but I need some help. Probably will do it after Christmas. I don't consider that much drift from the R2, and I forgot to include that after 5 minutes, it didn't drift much more. There are a bunch of other features that I probably didn't cover in this video because I was trying to keep it relatively short.

I still love my Movi Pro, although I now own both R2 and Movi, and use them both, depending on the job and the size of the camera\lens combo. If you go with Movi Pro, be sure to use the DJI TB50 batteries instead of the Freefly ones. They'll last longer and give you more power. After a year, my Freefly batteries were dying very quickly, but I've had TB50's for 18 months, and they're still solid. Ignite Digi makes some essential accessories, like the battery adapters, tilt offsets, and counterweight brackets.

I think it could be very useful in some situations. I had a shot last week where it was a macro shot on a dolly, and it might have come in handy, because I kept slightly over-shooting. But really, being able to add Mass when you want to have a more consistent Pan or Tilt is also very cool. I sometimes find that I can see my rotations on the wheel being un-even in longer Pans or Tilts, but if you add Mass, it should help even them out and let the weight of the wheel help you keep a consistent speed.

Andreas Öberg we’ve used the Mimic successfully without shake. I often mount it to a tripod fluid head for some operators. I would sometimes get shakiness but I found it was due to two reasons: the mimic was too close to the Movi and was swamping the radio receiver, or if I have another receiver plugged in at the same time, like alpha wheels or Movi controller, even if the controller was off, I would get some interference. I had to unplug the receiver from Movi pro when using the Mimic.

You're welcome. Glad it helped.

Hope it helped. What would you like me to make videos about?

Totally agree about the Ronin2 ring. Freefly is supposed to release a new version of their ProRing soon, but I don't think it will split apart either. My Ronin 2 mostly sits in its case these days, but I still bring it as a backup.

I really like the Ronin 2. Just used it again for a shoot in Vegas over the weekend. But it's so taxing on the body. You can really feel how strong it is though and how much weight it can handle. I've even debated swapping the Ronin ring in place of the Movi Pro as the solution. So maybe thats the hack? Buy the Movi Pro Gimbal without the ring and buy the Ronin 2 ring and pair them together! Food for thought for anyone else reading this lol @@gfuterfas

I have both gimbals now, and I avoid the Ronin 2 unless it's absolutely necessary for weight reasons. The Movi Pro is so much better, lighter, and very capable. Steadicam operates differently, and you can get the center of gravity closer to your body, so heavier rigs are possible. Gimbals are usually out in front of you, and can strain you more with the center of gravity farther from your body. That said, if you go Movi Pro, skip the Freefly batteries and go with Ignite Digi's TB50 battery adapters with Lemo plugs, and get the Lemo to D-Tap cable they'll make, so you can power accessories like Follow Focus MDR's straight off the batteries (24V, not 12V, though). That way, you get Ronin 2 batteries on the Movi Pro with double the capacity. There are a lot of 3rd Party accessories I'd recommend, too. Cinemilled, 1A Tools, Ignite Digi, etc. But I can't recommend Movi Pro enough.