I broke my pin, do you know where I can find a replacement.

I just had to break my sons unit into pieces. It was all sucked up to the nose, no getting that out. 😢

I have the same issue. Did you ever figure out where to get the pin?

I ended up dismounting the whole shaft and slightly leaning it up in order to remove the VVT controller. Be careful keeping track of the metal spacers as they are in a particular order based on their size. They like to fall down into the cylinder head.

Give me more details. Not the route I was going, but I am definitely interested.

@@JonathanErber Well I tried to post a direct link but it wont post. Go to TDIclub forums in the conversions section find my build and look at post #109. its a very simple way to get it to work and just involves a little wiring.

@@Motohead10 That is ridiculously simple. I love it. That works even though the Dodge tach signal from the tone ring isn't an evenly spaced pulse?

@@JonathanErber correct it still works. the only slight issue is the gauge looks like its about 75rpm low. but you wouldent even notice it unless I told you.

@@Motohead10 Awesome. I will roll with this! I have a spare Dakota Digital signal converter sitting around here, so I might roll with that one (should do what I need) or if not I'll get the one you have in your post. Thank you!

That is a great question. I don't have personal experience running one of these on an engine that new, or on a gas engine. Generally these run on diesels instead of gas engines for a couple reasons. Gas engines, especially newer engines, have such tight tolerances that the oil can run extremely clean if it is changed frequently/properly maintained. Diesel engines, especially older Diesel engines, run much dirtier and the oil easily gets loaded up with soot. This is why you basically never see a diesel engine without black engine oil, even if it is right after an oil change. Diesel engines also have much higher capacity oil systems, so there is more savings to be had by keeping the oil that is in there really clean and able to run longer between intervals. So all that said, newer gasoline engines just have lower benefits from a system like this on multiple fronts, making it not always worth installing. The other complicating factor, is that those engines run such thin oil that the orifice in a bypass filtration setup like this would need to be much much smaller. What I would recommend is keeping shorter oil change intervals, and every time you do an oil change run a product like Motor Medic Engine Flush through the system before changing the oil. This will keep the inside of the engine extremely clean, and I think eliminate the need for a bypass set up like this. This is what I do with all my vehicles, and whenever I need to open them up to do something, they are spotless inside. Even my Tahoe that has 290,000 mi on it is basically spotless inside. When I do the oil change at 3000 miles the oil comes out almost clean looking.

So glad it was helpful!

It depends on what the code is, but most likely not. Even with the airbag light, it isn't always because of the clock spring. I would recommend having those lights diagnosed before throwing parts at it.

That was my exact problem and yes it fixed me.

Love it!

​@@JonathanErber1988 Suzuki Carry db71t 4wd Hi and low, limited slip differential and locking hubs. Swapping out the F5A engine for the F8A engine. She's my mini monster truck. Trying to protect her New heart. Overbuilding everything.👍😎

@@brandonboulton2776 Nice! You might appreciate the TDI swap I just did into my Dodge Dakota. I posted a video about it.

@@JonathanErber 😎👍

Ah, good question. This engine is the 5.7l V8 if I remember right.

Thank you! I am having so much fun daily driving it. I thought it would be a dog, but no, this thing rips.

Bam. That's what's up! Not here for the money/viewer duration, here for the helps. Glad you found it helpful. ☺️

Sold the project. Doing a build right now, tho, almost done putting a TDI into a 2001 Dakota.