Because his following so close. Also sometimes braking is necessary in drifting.

foot brakes will help with controlling or maintaining the speed you want in a drift and the E-brake is good for making your drift wider if you need to or its also good for initiating drifts and depending on what the brake bias is the effect of hitting the foot brake could be different. Braking is super important especially in high level drifting but if its just like a sharp turn in the city or something then you won't really need a brake because you aren't going that fast and its easier to control a drift at low speed.

That’s not quite true, you use brake to slow down in a drift, shift to speed up, and you feather the gas and use the steering for both, but it results in different wheel spins.

One was duct taped to the passenger head rest and the other was on a sticky mount under the steering wheel

There's a number of situations where being able to press both pedals at once is useful, and its faster/ smoother than having to jump back and forth with one foot, but really it comes down to preference.

I used a harbor freight welder on the max setting wire speed about 3. I'd recommend using a better welder. Another tip is aim more the at side of the plate instead of the chassis, will put more of the heat into the plate and will make it easier to not burn through.

Thanks!

Ecs tuning is good. I just got a turner chip off there

Yeah that part is probably the most stressful. If you are certain the 2 black clips by the pins are released the issue is the board isn't at a steep enough angle. On some you have to push up much harder than you think is safe but, as soon as you get the right angle it will pop right out.

@@keengarage1253 I was able in the end to do it by just opening the 'jaw' of the 2 boards as i could not pull out the top board . My manual 91 325 feels a bit faster but it likes to rev more for the first minutes, it's like the computer needs to adjust to the new 'brain' .I felt more of a difference when I did that last year in my auto 92 525i - same non Vanos M50 engine , same EPROM chip - but when you gain 0.3-0.5 sec in 0-100km/hr it's obviously you'll feel it more in a 10 sec auto 5er vs a 7.9 sec manual 3er .

Do you see the words "how to" in the title? No? Because it isn't one, I made the video for fun take it or leave it. 😙

Quite a while, I wound up using a belt sander. Even then still took a while. I didn't use any pressure just let the weight of the part do the work and kept spinning it. Slightly rounded the edges but seems to have worked fine. I did not use the included ramp saver shim. with it in the preload was insane. Diff still going strong after about 10 events

@@keengarage1253 nice good to know I was wondering how I was going to do it. Why did you not use the ramp saver shim? I’m about to do the same thing on a 3.73 was welded for about 2-3 events and it’s great welded but as a part time daily it’s definitely not fun.

sold it but yes its still drifting.

Yeah no brake shields here, those things just get in the way lol. I would probably keep them on a grip track car that sees high brake temps, to protect the ball joints, but this thing is all about ease of maintenance. The bolt nut method sucked, would probably work fine with thicker/higher grade hardware but I had low grade home depot stuff that kept stripping. Get yourself just a standard ballpoint press kit from harbor freight, It works perfect. You can see it in action in my white e36 build vids.

Yeah thats a good idea, not sure why I didn't think of that lol

@@keengarage1253 I went ahead and ordered the 90 anyway

Yes

I agree, though this car is long gone. I do however have a z3 rack in my e36 and its amazing!