He's a boy so I guess he will be a good father.

Lol Thanks bro

Lol u have to exaggerate when talk to baby otherwise they lose interest because only respond to tone and pitch you see 🙏

🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉

Just a standard 5/12V non latching led power button switch, 22mm diameter from Amazon etc. (Recommend 22mm as other ones are very small and awkward to press) Wiring is exactly same as you would wire the front panel connector on a standard ATX tower; on/off pins from mobo to the switch, LED +/- pins from mobo to led+/- on switch. Just ran really long wires ~ 4m. Anything <22 gauge should be fine, it hardly carrying any current. Would probably also work with a 24V switch, but the LED halo may be dimmer

Lol Darryll you joker mate! I think you need to get yourself up to speed with simple physics. Or just some common sense might help you out lmao ☠☠

Don't get me wrong, I like your idea in principle and it does look nice, maybe you should remove all insulation, I understand that nowadays tv etc don't give off as much heat as they used too, however heat needs to disburse, overtime it could affect the way your tv works, let's be honest 2x wook screws is probably no the best way to secure an expensive tv ? there's a reason why people make media walls ??

@@darryllmarsh6798 Thanks Daryll for your appreciation. Let me help clear up any concerns you may have: Both TV's are also secured by the Vesa mounts. But the four 6mm wood screws (2 each side) wont go anywhere. You can pick engine block up with pair of 6mm bolts. (I'd be more concerned about the 2mm brads the studwork is put together with, failing.) But wood screws are just mounting surface to transfer weight and so TV sits at perfect height. (The TV stand uses same mounting plates and TV stands are made of plastic or thin Ali.) The Vesa mounts stop the TV from falling in or out, so it's basically got a stand AND Vesa mount. Very sturdy. All insulation was indeed removed above and around TV, I talked about that in video. It's new to-code fiberglass insulation anyway which isn't combustible and self extinguishing but I didn't want even the slightest possibility of TV to shut off from overheating. On that concern though we can do some quick math: TV puts out 260W~ max apparently (manufacturer website.) For 65" TV it's 1800 square inches. 260W/1800 = 0.14W per square inches. That's 0.14W per square inch of heat dissipation. I'm pretty sure the human body puts out more heat:surface area than that! Even if we assume power supply and other internals are centred around bottom middle of TV so let's say 1/6 of total screen area worse case scenario: 260W (white screen max brightness, quite unlikely scenario, but anyway) 260W/(1800/6)=0.86W per square inch of heat dissipation. A smartphone puts out more heat than that! Also, the TV has multiple temp sensors. If anyone of them gets above threshold it will just shutdown the TV. Threshold for LED backlit TV components is very very low and would never start a fire unless there was some absurd catastrophic failure and short circuit (which would just pop fuse let's be real). But your TV could spontaneously combust anyway, on top of a wooden TV cabinet, or next to curtains for example (which I would argue is much more dangerous.) In comparison to a media wall, there's no difference with heat dissipation, the TV is still in an enclosed space but as we worked out, it's completely fine anyway. HOWEVER, in a media wall, TV is usually mounted with wall mount to stud behind plasterboard which is fine, BUT I have seen many that are just secured by plugs in plasterboard, missing any studwork. Which I would say is far more dangerous as TV could fall off the wall. (But this TV weighs ~ 20kg so the 10 plugs or so the TV mount requires to install traditionally on the wall or in a media wall, would probably be adequate.) Additional anecdotal evidence: I Uploaded this video summer 2022. The living room TV that i'm typing to you on RN, is on 24/7. That's no exaggeration. I use CAD during day and use it as TV evening and it's on all night as TV aswell. This TV has had roughly a few days downtime in over 2 years. It's constantly on and if heat was a problem it would have shut itself off or made the walls hot or screen hot etc and there's been absolutely none of it. As I said to another guy on a here a while back who asked about potential heat also, I said: they put 3000W fan ovens in cabinets with a 2" gap behind them. That's to code and safe and they obviously work completely fine, even though they're a large chunk of metal at 250*C in a confined chipboard cabinet! I would ague they pose more of a fire risk and they're in every home, probably in every country in the world. So I wouldn't worry about this mate lol. But thanks for watching the video anyway.

Thanks for detailed reply

Well the screen dissipates the vast majority of the heat and the rest is Into the wall cavity and dissipated. The back isn't sealed off either. It has 2 ~70mm hole saw ports for the HDMI and power cord and optical etc. But both TVs are only ~125w which is negligible for their footprint. We leave this TV on basically 24/7 and no overheating issues as I would expect. They obviously have thermal cut outs too which would stop them from overheating anyway. I'd be more concerned about electric double ovens built into kitchen units with about a 2 inch or so gap at the back and consume like 3kw! Don't hear anything about them so I think this will be fine!