Hallo Herr Rieg, diese Achsialkugellager haben viele Japaner bis weit in die 80er eingesetzt. Gerne haben die dann einen "Rastpunkt" in Geradeausstellung gehabt und zu pendeln geführt. Auch die Kunsstoffbuchsen vieler Japaner als Schwingenlager waren so ein Eldorado für die einschlägige "Tunnigbranche". Gruß - Gerd Jäger

Bei der Kawa macht das auch Spaß. Bei eine Yamaha XV 1100 ist das ein Albtraum.

very good video LSCAD..love kawasaki

Das Abziehen der unteren Lagerschale mit einem Meissel ist schon etwas rustikal. Besser für das Material ist ein Abzieher (z.B GabelkonusßAbzieher oder Ein Park Tool CRP-2) 😎

Allein schon die 3zylinder-Kawa zu sehen.. ❤

Will you be fitting a metric threading dial ?

Beautiful work! What is the band saw you are using here? Thank you!

Was sagt dann der FU wenn durch Fehlbedienung beide Kippschalter (Rechtslauf/Linkslauf) aktiviert werden ? Ich hätte einen Wechsler benutzt (Drehschalter 1-0-2) ? Gibts eine Temperaturüberwachung des Motors für niedrige Drehzahlen ?

Kann man auf diese Weise auch ein Gewinde auf den Kegel schneiden? Oder evtl. mittels Reitstockverstellung?

Frage: Sollte die Zahnteilungsthematik nicht vernachlässigbar sein, insofern man immer(!) auf die selbe Markierung (z.B. die 1) einkuppelt?

Awesome video! For the 750, why did the 1 and 2 have different readings, 1.9 vs 2.3? And the same between 3 and 4? Are they supposed to off, or would it have been better to have made them all the same number?

Also... Ich kann mich noch gut daran erinnern, dass ich Anfang der 90er mit meinem W123 mit altem Becker Radio (alles Stand 1982) eine XT 500 auf der BAB überholt habe, die mir +/-10m ins FM-Radio gestört hat. Die hatte aber auch Unterbrecherzündung und 6V. Und das Radio war wahrscheinlich weitaus weniger geschirmt und wesentlich diskreter aufgebaut als moderne IC Radios und damit wahrscheinlich eine einzige Antenne. Wahrscheinlich störte es direkt in den Verstärkerkreis, nicht in den FM-Teil. Damals war Entstörung m.E. durchaus sinnvoll.

Professor, EMI may and can be suppressed by shielding the HV cables... Please, try shielding using the aluminium/copper foil tape usually used for shielding heat. In old systems you have 2 sparks and 2 antennas: One spark in the cylinder and one in the Delco One antenna is the cable from the coil to the Delco the other is the cable from sparkplug to the Delco.

I love kawasaki old school..thanks for your time LSCAD

Wtf is this 🤔🤔🤔

Essa intro me mata do coração. 😳

dear LSCAD, thank you foe your video, really helpful, best one ever seen. I have some questions: when you are checking voltage thresold on original regulator it looks there are only 2 positions of contact blade, led Blue and Red are lighting alternatevely, probably you are moving quite fast the power suppy, in reality like you shown before in the video we have 3 position of contacts, ON one side, ON other side, both OPEN therefore we have 3 charging mode, Full @1.6A <13.3V , [email protected] about 14....14.5V, NO charging >15....15.5V (consider these voltage are "about" because hysteresis of the solenoid contact), My 1st question is about NO charging voltage, in my bench test this happen >15.0 to 15.5V, it looks a little too high, what is in general this voltage? Mt 2nd question is about electronic regulator, how it works? I mean, when you adjust thresold I can see Blue led ON and Blue and Red ON, this is ok, but haven't seen only Red ON, does this regulator has stop charging state? Also, where is possible to find?, I haven't seen on their website. I think electronic voltage regulator inside original case is the best option and works much better than electromechanical original version especially for hysteresis stability. Sorry for long story, I would really appreciate your reply.

Hr Prof Rieg Sie sind einfach ein Ass ! Klasse - Respekt

ihr solltet mal etwas über Schnittgeschwindigkeiten lernen. Eine Katastrophe wie die Oberfläche und die Späne aussehen

Keren

Habe mal eine grundsätzliche Frage: Ist eine Fräse OHNE Pinole die BESSERE Fräse? Unter dem Gesichtspunkt der Steifigkeit (nicht: Praktikalität) schon, oder? Danke

You count how many times the magnets trigger the hall in one seconds correct? But in low speed it's fluttering between 30 40 rpm. If I reduce the time will the reading be better?

...ich glaube, daß die aktuellen PKW-Lichtmaschinen den Erregerstrom auch über die Batterie beziehen und somit die Erregerdioden entfallen...

good video LSCAD..love old motorcycles honda and kawasaki

Wie immer, sehr kompetent!

20:32 that wiuld make a nice piston. Fir a engine I'd like to build. About 340 cid. Per cylinder. Twin cylinder. 8" bore 12" stroke. I believe anything longer will just hurt performance. It already will likely never see 1000 rpm. Likely a 400 - 600 rpm operation range with a 24”-30" 200+ lb flywheel a100 lb crank with modern carburator or carburators. With roughly 9.5:1 compression, maybe use 2,3, 4 lawn mower or motor cycle carburetors, mounted on long intake runners. for higher port velocity dumping into a small plenum just at the head. About 3" x 4" with a 3" dia. Port! It having 3/4" tubing intake runnerss atleast , with a straight shot into the valve, same for each tube, each having their own part of the valve they are siming at. A 12"-18"intake runner, 3/4"-1" with 18-20 mm carburators , use a flow test with smoke to get a swirl into the cylinder and port. Possibly experiment with different fuels for each carburetor . Possibly 87 octane gasoline in the main carb to start the engine on. Then 93 for middle carbs , with the last carb getting fed methanol for heavy loads at full throttle! Hopefully producing good power , with a 500 rpm +/- 100 rpm use a electronic govenor possibly along with a heavy flywheel possibly 2000 lbft of instantaneous torque output. Actual T.Q. possibly in the 150-200ftlb of torques!😮 From 680cid, at idle rpm for automotive engines. It should idle at 300-350 rpm, the possibility of lower with the flywheels made keeping it going, especially with twin cylinders firing at 180° from one another. Making it possible to run a generator, and maintain frequency very well! This is what I would want it for . And also ti charge batteries. With a dc source . Being about 4x, 150 amp delco alternators to charge 24v/48,v batteries in a bank of 1000 ah+ or up to 2000 ah or less . To supply 300 amps at 29v with 50% efficiency, is n joke. Requires some power. While generating 10-15kw at 60hz! Have awesome day, and sorry to ramble on, but I love engines!

You might like to read a book called - Screwcutting in the lathe - in the workshop practice series. Very cheap. It will explain to you some things that I think you are not properly either understanding or explaining. Neither of which is good for an educational establishment. For example it will give you 14 different gear ratio options to approximate the inch to mm conversion and includes the Myford approximation using the 21 tooth gear.

I would love to build a modern version of a old pony engine . Huge displacement, low rpm, with modern improvements.

At 16:20 you say that a very small feed is added and hence mainly the left edge of the cutting tool cuts. I think this is not correct. If you setup the topslide at the appropriate angle for the thread then the tool will cut on the left edge. It is not possible to tell from your video whether this has actually been done since no wide enough shot is shown. Anyway, it is the angle of the topslide and not the depth of cut that determines which side or sides of the cutter is active.

1:35 Kühlen! In meiner Ausbildungswerkstatt hätte ich jetzt einen auf den Deckel bekommen

I want to build a engine from scratch. Similar to the 1880's-1920's pony engines, steam engine, oil field engines, the first diesel engines, hot bulb engines , "flywheel engines" and i want it to work nearly daily, not a replica, more of a i seen one, now i will build one! A modern take on a old design, using modern materials. A engine with 8"bore, and upwards of 12" stroke, and two cylinders 180° from each other , both at TDC at once, firing 180° from one another. With overhead cams , and possibly oil pumps, 3 total, one in each head, and one for the crank and pistons with pressurized wrists pin oilers and a squirter to cool the combustion chamber inside the piston. It having a 4"-4.350" hemispherical chamber i the piston. With a 2.5"intake valve, and a 2.25" exhaust valve (possibly two of each! Only slightly smaller, possibly 2.100" / 1.800” intake/exhaust. ) with each head having a intake cam and exhaust cam, so the event timing can be optimized. With a single oil dump holding 8 quarts of 5w30 oil, with 2" drain from each head. With the crank case, cylinders and heads all separate pieces. Either air cooled or water cooled, thr the water cooled having a bolt on crossover, no water through the gasket. And thr compression sealed by a copper o-ring i a groove using a 2mm dead soft copper o-ring eith a stainless steel .030"o-ring in the receiving groove in the head. Do the o-ring gets flattened slightly, with a oring pushed into it about .010-015" with aluminum heads having a iron bar like a top hat pressed or possibly screwed into the head where the valves hold the seats, deals, valve guides, springs and have the bowl portion of the port inside, then port matched for air flow. Possibly do the same for yhe sparkplugs to reduce issues with corrosion and wear on threads basically a giant carriage bolt in the center of the chamber euth a hole through the center with a recess and threads for a sparkplug . And ceramic insulation coat the pistons, and heads, along with the exhaust ports internally . And possibly indtall a 1/2" heat pipe inside the intake port flattened to about 3/16" with the opposite end connected to the exhaust head pipe. To bring heat to the intake making it run better heating a small section to 150° or so to vaporize the raw gas coming in the cylinder just s bit of copper tubing with a bit of acetone indide sealed tight or make a electric version, using a 1/8" tube with 20 gauge nichrome wire, with sand inside to insulate the wire and thermally conduct. A 6" spiral in the 3" port heat the air to about 200°f until the engine is warm because a block of aluminum, with nothing heating it. Is. Going to be a cold natured engine. Even if it warms quickly , it being a generator, it needs to start and go the low RPM nature, isnt going to warm up that fast, it can have an alternative intake portjust a valve that closes the normal port. allowing air to flow thru the 90° turns through the heater into the cylinder. With thr ability to heat to around 500°f+.it eill get to 180°-220° quickly. Like a heat plug in a old diesel truck, 30-60 seconds and its ready , with a oil heater also running for 5 minutes to get 80°f oil. In 0° weather. It should start easily. With the crank , rod , cam built similar to the videos, and cadt pistons from old pistons, make rings from brake rotors cast into a blank to be cut from and ground while held with magnetic vise going thinner than old rings were made, possibly ,2.5 -3 mm with two, 2 mm oil rings separated by a coil spring. And the important difference , the compression ratio running around 9:1-10.5:1 with a compression release possibly keep the exhaust open later. Possibly using a extra cam lobe and follower locking in place like VTEC preventing thrintsk from working until the exhaust closed. Reducing compression, to about 5:1-6:1 or 100-120 psi,to the original 195-210psi with the engine. Running under 1200 RPM, it will help with power. The TQ should be up there, 100 ftlb, with the intake runners being 12"-18", and 1206 cubic inches or 19-20 litres if it was spinning over 2000 rpm it should be really making power but at 400-600rpm 40-50 HP maybe. Id like to build another with 6" stroke and spin up around 2800-3600 peak rpm about 4000, with only 603 cid (only) 10 litres. It should be capable of near 200hp easy and tons of TQ and possibly tuned to get tons more power. It should run similar to a diesel. And add a bit of boost. I have no idea what to do with all that power i only need 20-40 kw at most ever 80-90 hp can easily do that sorry to ramble, have an awesome day ✌️

What is this ,125cc engine , a diesel? Seems a bit heavy for a samall engine. Seems t ciuld handle nitromethane!😮

good shxt here, man!... Hi from San Francisco

What skills do we need to make this machine?🔧🪛

Sorry, but I find it difficult to take seriously anyone who holds a vacuum cleaner nozzle up to the work whilst milling and turning. As if they are going to catch all the swarf and not have to clean up after anyway. Get a life mate.

Rất tuyệt vời đầy sáng tạo tài năng cảm ơn video hay của bạn 😊👍

Yeah.. shoulda done the crank seals when I had the cylinders board and new pistons. Apparently a major wear issue/design flaw?

I think it's a good video, but the music isn't necessary.

Thank you so much ❤

Moin und vielen Dank, Hat mir schon ein paarmal sehr geholfen! Vielleicht sollte man aber an einigen Stellen darauf hinweisen, dass es je nach Produktionsjahr kleine Unterschiede in der Konstruktion gibt. Besonders gemein ist eine Variante an dem Halteblech der Achse mit dem Vierkant: die eine der beiden M5 Senkkopfschrauben hat ein Linksgewinde. Wenn man das nicht weiß ist der Murcks vorprogrammiert.

One funny thing about ball bearings. The balls don't just roll ,they slide also due to difference of inner diameter and outer diameter dimensions , so oil is very important

This is amazing, great skill and care! Zen and ... Owned one of these, the output of this engine is a life changing experience!! Cheers

Große Klasse !

😊🛠 👍

Hallo Herr Rieg, sofern ich mir ein Urteil erlauben darf: Wenn man bedenkt, daß bei Kawasaki eine Entwicklungsabteilung mit einer riesigen Ausstattung warscheinlich monatelang getüftelt hat, um den H1 zu entwickeln, dann ist das doch ein tolles Ergebnis und erstaunlich nahe dran. Gruß - Gerd Jäger

......super, klingt original wie eione MZ ;-) Gruß - Gerd Jäger

Hallo Herr Rieg, jetzt habe ich tatsächlich verpasst, daß es Neues gibt. Schön, daß es weiter geht. Gruß - Gerd Jäger

Seid gegrüßt ehrwürdige Meister! Ich bin ganz begeistert davon, in welcher handwerklichen Art Ihr Eure Maschinen und Versuche aufbaut! Das erinnert etwas an frühere Tage, als die Ingenieure noch vieles ganz praktisch ausprobiert haben, bevor eine Konstruktion als ausgereift gelten konnte. Der heutige Motorenbau lebt im Downsizingfieber, wird am Computer konstruiert und die Kunden machen den Praxistest, wobei die Kunden die mangelnde Standfestigkeit erleben dürfen. Das mag kurzfristig ökonomisch sein, ist aber nicht nachhaltig. Weiter so! Viele Grüße aus Kiel von Stefan

very very good job LSCAD..thanks for your time

Das beste an der Kurbelwelle sind die Eier. Dat gibt Mumm und Fetz. Grüsse aus dem Havelland und danke fürs Video