Just got to the primer part 😅 lol still need to printer the jetpack, just waiting on wife to get out of my game room...
@otallonoАй бұрын
No. A respirator needs to be used in both steps. Your brain is important too, not just your lungs. A vapor cartridge is needed for the resin and particulate filter for sanding. OUTDOORS.
@GalaxyBuiltАй бұрын
Great suggestion thank you
@TheMrDeathbikerАй бұрын
Just got done sanding my stuff just waiting on payday for more work ill dm u on i.g❤
@F150_King_Ranch2 ай бұрын
Updates!!!
@GalaxyBuiltАй бұрын
Next part should be uploaded soon!
@JeffandJeeps2 ай бұрын
I need a part 7!
@GalaxyBuiltАй бұрын
I’m nearly done editing it, I’ve been so busy!
@nexpro69852 ай бұрын
At 0:48 you state that the resin is strong without the cloth. This is known not to be the case. Without fibers in the resin cracks propagate unchecked. Adding resin to a porous surface might add strength but for other surfaces all you would be doing is adding weight.
@GalaxyBuiltАй бұрын
Thank you
@louisGauto2 ай бұрын
Should have did your base coat gloss black let it dry for awhile, then wet sand, clean it off then clear coat with 2k clear or anything clear coat and let dry and wet sand and clean, than graphite powder.
@GalaxyBuilt2 ай бұрын
Since this video I have swapped to actual spray gun automotive gloss and it works even better! But the 2k cans are great! Gloss black is the best base coat for nearly all metallic paints or finishes.
@TheFilamentFactory3 ай бұрын
great video man, is there gonna be a part 7?
@GalaxyBuilt3 ай бұрын
Thank you! And actually, yes! Life has been crazy but the next part is nearly done being edited and should be uploaded soon!
@TheMrDeathbiker3 ай бұрын
What where your wall thickness also what infill? You side 97% sized helmet? I have glasses. In my motorcycle helmet am size L.
@GalaxyBuilt3 ай бұрын
Definitely depends on head size but also the model and who made the model, because they all come in differing scales. I used .6mm nozzle and I like to do 3 walls. Very tough. I believe it was around 15% infill on this project.
@TheMrDeathbiker3 ай бұрын
@galaxyBuilt i have the k1 max am not trying to.miss with it yet got it for my bday gift to my self . I got the flies off Galactic armory, seeing how good his files are coming out. Just wish my k1 max was a bit bigger
@TheMrDeathbiker3 ай бұрын
Thanks for the paint help!!!
@GalaxyBuilt3 ай бұрын
Any time! Thank you!
@fairfield7813 ай бұрын
Everythings just 3d printed now days
@GalaxyBuilt3 ай бұрын
It’s a great way to go! Depending on the project I 3d print a master so I can mold and cast it as well
@almaandariel3 ай бұрын
This video is going to reallly help me make my own projects thanks!❤
@GalaxyBuilt3 ай бұрын
That’s great to hear!!
@carlcadogan45104 ай бұрын
What type of filament used for the parts?
@GalaxyBuilt3 ай бұрын
I almost always use PLA+ filament for my cosplay!
@TheFilamentFactory4 ай бұрын
dude great job on the paint it looks insanely real
@GalaxyBuilt4 ай бұрын
Thank you so much!!
@Black_Patriot-Veteran-19704 ай бұрын
The light beacon on your jetpack is on the wrong side. Switch with the other
@GalaxyBuilt4 ай бұрын
You are correct. Couldn’t get it to fit on the other side the way the model was made unfortunately
@SandraOrtmann19764 ай бұрын
I did something similar with all of my 3d-printed Mando plates. But be warned: this strengthening technique does not prevent your plastic plates from breaking when being knocked or falling on the floor (depends on the flooring - carpet provides a higher chance of survival than tile). But there is higher chance that all of the fragments will stay together. Also, I never bought such a kit, but large quantities of expoxy resin and large packs of fibreglass mats meant mostly for boat repairs from the usual sources (I always get the 300 gr kind - plenty strong). Also, I never cut it with scissors, but tear the mats into smaller pieces. This way, pieces overlap way better and creates a stronger bond.
@GalaxyBuilt4 ай бұрын
That’s great advice! Thank you!
@adamelchami36145 ай бұрын
I love this series it's really helpful! would u recommend the 3d printer ur using for this vid?
@GalaxyBuilt5 ай бұрын
Thank you so much! There’s a lot of newer machines now that I would recommend over the CR-10. If you’re wanting a huge printer the Elegoo Neptune Max can’t be beat for the price. But the Elegoo Neptune Pro would be a great option as well. When it comes to cosplay, it’s important to pay attention to build volume when shopping for printers.
@natalieriggan97825 ай бұрын
😂
@GalaxyBuilt5 ай бұрын
😂
@𝐑𝐮𝐬𝐬𝐢𝐚_.𝐚𝐛𝐮𝐬𝐞5 ай бұрын
Lmao😭
@GalaxyBuilt5 ай бұрын
Love this trend!
@DevanBeattie5 ай бұрын
Can you plastic weld on the a finished painted surface that’s cracked? My top plate has a crack in it and I need to repair it. Would plastic weld work best or krazy glue?
@GalaxyBuilt5 ай бұрын
If it’s armor you’re referring to, there’s such a thin bit of material that after connecting it could easily break again. I would recommend gluing the seem, possibly welding the inside, and definitely using fiberglass resin and cloth to make the back stronger to avoid it snapping again.
@bobdatmoose11186 ай бұрын
What kind of clear resin did you use? I can't seem to find it on Amazon Edit: Nvm, found it a minute after I posted this lol
@GalaxyBuilt6 ай бұрын
Perfect! lol
@halibotzenhart7396 ай бұрын
Did you use the cloth for the smaller parts as well? I need to reinforce my smaller parts because they are too flimsy and had issues with warping on. I was told by a couple people to do the inside of my parts with fiberglass resin to reinforce so just trying to do my research before I start 😂
@GalaxyBuilt6 ай бұрын
It’s probably a good idea for extra strength! I didn’t do it on the smaller pieces of this armor though, because I didn’t want to add to the thickness of the back of the pieces. Also, I had already painted them when I finally got around to this step, so I didn’t want to have to sand. But it’s a great idea!
@unbreonblade59046 ай бұрын
Wait but what about temperature? Resin gets hot while it cures, does it affect the 3D printed piece?
@GalaxyBuilt6 ай бұрын
True! The curing resin is an exothermic reaction. However, in my experience it’s not a hot enough reaction to warp prints.
@harcomou83956 ай бұрын
Damn'.. Good job.
@GalaxyBuilt6 ай бұрын
Thank you so much!
@StevenKelley7 ай бұрын
What tape did you end up using? In the middle of a Grail print right now.
@GalaxyBuilt7 ай бұрын
I can’t remember for sure what tape. Was just cheap masking tape. Wouldn’t recommend delicate surface tape as it may not pull the paint off properly. The froggy green tape works pretty well!
@bobdatmoose11187 ай бұрын
Very well done and in depth, even listed everything in the description, thanks 👍
@GalaxyBuilt7 ай бұрын
Thank you so much!! Really try to provide everything you need.
@DMAbCD8 ай бұрын
Super awesome Boba Fett costume
@GalaxyBuilt8 ай бұрын
Thank you so much!
@chlero_eyes8 ай бұрын
Prusa slicer is better and fast without all the extra steps
@GalaxyBuilt8 ай бұрын
True! Prusa Slicer is many people's go-to file slicer.
@CamoKiid8 ай бұрын
I'm planning to do some armor, how do I reinforce the outside? Use resin? Or resin and fibreglass? I don't want to lose detail on the exterior of a helmet or chest piece etc. But don't want it to be at risk of caving in
@GalaxyBuilt8 ай бұрын
Are you printing it with enough walls and infill? Doesn’t take much to keep it from caving in. I would say that if you’re concerned you can definitely coat the inside or hidden parts with fiberglass resin. It works quite well to add strength. I highly recommend doing this for seam lines between pieces for sure
@CamoKiid8 ай бұрын
Thank you for getting back to me, I printed a mando helmet at 13% and added resin on the inside and it holds up well. I also used some kind of filler that hardens and sanded on the outside but just wondered if there were any other tips or tricks I didn't know about haha
@GalaxyBuilt8 ай бұрын
Thats awesome! @@CamoKiid
@figuresix9 ай бұрын
Been 8 months, you gonna finish this series?
@GalaxyBuilt9 ай бұрын
Oh I know! I have had so much going on! I will be finishing this series and should be uploading another part quite soon!
@samantony70399 ай бұрын
Brilliant tutorial! Thank you so much for sharing this!
@GalaxyBuilt9 ай бұрын
Absolutely! Thank you for the feedback!
@colinmsmall10 ай бұрын
Can you tell me where I can find stencils to paint the chest emblem and shoulder emblem? I looked on Etsy but it seems like it is mostly decals. How did you do it?
@GalaxyBuilt10 ай бұрын
So i preferred not to do decals because its so obvious and they dont weather well. I made stencils myself on a cricut and cut them out for painting. Im aware there aren't really stencils available on Etsy so I am looking at filling that void myself, but I'm not sure I will have a store setup in time for it to serve you on this project. Do you have access to a cricut?
@colinmsmall10 ай бұрын
@@GalaxyBuilt unfortunately not. Are they expensive?
@GalaxyBuilt10 ай бұрын
They can be yeah, but the cricut joy isnt too expensive, however it would be too costly to buy just for a project like this in my opinion. I would love to sell it to you. Can you hit me up on instagram DM's and I can sell you the stencils even tho I dont have the store setup yet? @@colinmsmall
@colinmsmall10 ай бұрын
Sure sounds good I’ll message you there
@xgirl00510 ай бұрын
Nail polish or nail polish remover? Pure acetone? Love how this came out! Just wish I had a 3d printer! Haha
@GalaxyBuilt10 ай бұрын
Nail polish remover! What did I say? Lol oops. Yeah I’m using nail polish remover that is 100% acetone
@xgirl00510 ай бұрын
@GalaxyBuilt you might have said "remover " and I missed it. I kept hearing nail polish. 😃
@colinmsmall10 ай бұрын
I’m in the middle of painting right now and I’m wondering if you just wait for like a couple of hours before masking the back and cheeks and starting to mask the red.. or did you wait overnight? I’m wondering if it is risky to leave the masking on overnight and then starting the red..
@GalaxyBuilt10 ай бұрын
It definitely varies between different paints but I would advise at least waiting overnight for the paint to dry before putting tape on it. If the paint is not set, masking tape will ruin the paint job when you go to peel it off.
@colinmsmall10 ай бұрын
@@GalaxyBuiltThank you for such a quick reply! I waited overnight to take the dome and front. I just did the cheeks and back and then I wondered what do I do now lol. Sounds like waiting overnight is a safe bet, I will do that. I wasn’t sure if waiting too long would hurt when pulling it off.
@GalaxyBuilt10 ай бұрын
I did not have any issues with how long paint stayed on the piece as long as the paint had enough time to set before the tape! @@colinmsmall
@colinmsmall10 ай бұрын
How did you do the chest plate emblem and the shoulder emblem etc?
@GalaxyBuilt10 ай бұрын
I made my emblems by taking png’s of the symbols and cutting them on a cricut to make stencils for painting them on. I’ll have a detailed breakdown once I am able to continue editing further parts of this series!
@colinmsmall10 ай бұрын
@@GalaxyBuilt oh that’s great. I didn’t realize you planned on uploading more videos for the build. I look forward to them. Thank you for creating the content and thank you for being so supportive.
@PettyPrinzeJr10 ай бұрын
What 3D scanner did you use on your iPhone?
@GalaxyBuilt10 ай бұрын
There’s a lot of good ones for different uses. The one that worked the best for a correctly sized head scan that was clean enough to use was an app called EM3D. I hope that helps!
@PettyPrinzeJr10 ай бұрын
@@GalaxyBuilt Thank you!
@KillingIsBadong11 ай бұрын
Quick question; Have you had any issues with the exothermic reaction's heat warping or damaging pieces at all? I originally tried to 'rondo' my 3D printed armor (resin + body filler) but it seems to have gotten too hot and ended up warping some parts to the point where I had to re-print them. That's a bit different than just the fiberglass resin by itself, but I'm curious if you noticed any issues.
@GalaxyBuilt11 ай бұрын
I have not has issues with this particular fiberglass resin getting too warm for 3d prints. However, I've used Epoxamite 101 in the past and noticed that if I had the correct amount of hardener or a little bit too much, the reaction would be too fast and "smoke" as it dried. Using a slightly lower ratio of hardener helped, just took longer to set. I hope that helps!
@colinmsmall11 ай бұрын
Do you remember what grit sandpaper you used to sand with the electric sander? Also, how did you go about sanding the top edge part of the visor frame on the outside where the printer tends to leave layer lines.. or did you just use a soldering iron?
@GalaxyBuilt11 ай бұрын
Usually I have either 80 or 120 grit on my sander. For the edges around the visor and along the bottom ridge I used a bit of the soldering iron but I also used a file as well. Filing those edges is a pretty easy way to smooth them
@colinmsmall11 ай бұрын
Amazing… I’m going to start this project
@GalaxyBuilt11 ай бұрын
That sounds super exciting! Hopefully I’ll be able to get more parts of this video series edited and uploaded soon!
@colinmsmall11 ай бұрын
@@GalaxyBuilt That would be really appreciated as I find your videos to be the best ones I have seen and certainly the most thorough and detailed. I know this takes a lot of effort and time but I know you are helping many others including myself. I printed a book of boba fett version of the helmet and I think it is mostly the same as yours with just some of the damage areas in different spots… there may be more but I think I’m going to just follow what you did and relocate some of the damage marks. Unless you have any suggestions on making it more screen accurate to book of boba fett etc.. and again, thank you for doing all of this!
@GalaxyBuilt11 ай бұрын
Definitely different damage and book of boba doesnt really have the texture either! Check out my bro Alexander Makes on Instagram he is @alexander_makes_ and he would be a great person to message for specific color choices and finishing techniques! Most colors should be the same as mine but the BOBF version does not have the texture! @@colinmsmall
@colinmsmall11 ай бұрын
@@GalaxyBuilt I reached out to him. Thank you for the help! His stuff looks amazing. Do you still prefer using the resin method for smoothing? I’m thinking of trying it.. never used resin and I understand it is pretty toxic.. I’m assuming it should work the same on PETG as PLA.
@GalaxyBuilt11 ай бұрын
I do still use the resin quite often yes!! But lately I have also been watering down bondo glazing and spot putty with acetone to brush it on and I like that a lot too. You could also use a product called XTC 3D and its quite good for it as well!@@colinmsmall
@yep_243111 ай бұрын
Thanks man
@GalaxyBuilt11 ай бұрын
Thank YOU!
@laminate31 Жыл бұрын
Underrated🔥
@GalaxyBuilt11 ай бұрын
Thank you!
@midnightwolf2710 Жыл бұрын
Where do you get the soft parts?
@GalaxyBuilt Жыл бұрын
There’s many great places and vendors making accurate boba fett soft parts. I bought mine from sky costume and did some minor modifications. That video will be released eventually. I am quite busy at the moment but I plan to eventually release my tutorial for the soft parts
@quattron-1126 Жыл бұрын
With your kind of skill… now you have to make the Sankara stones!
@GalaxyBuilt Жыл бұрын
That’s a great idea! I love me some Indiana Jones!
@quattron-1126 Жыл бұрын
@@GalaxyBuilt bud, I’m such an Indiana Jones fan myself too! Glad to know there are a few of us out there! :)
@GalaxyBuilt Жыл бұрын
@@quattron-1126 Indy really has some of the greatest props!
@quattron-1126 Жыл бұрын
@@GalaxyBuilt oh yeah, I got me the outfit too. I bought the original hat brought from London… yikes …! Expensive !
@GalaxyBuilt Жыл бұрын
@@quattron-1126 That is awesome!
@GReadyPrints Жыл бұрын
Nice work buddy 👍
@GalaxyBuilt Жыл бұрын
Thank you so much!
@NefariousElasticity Жыл бұрын
You can help yourself out a lot with alignment by either adding pegs and slots to the design, or just add slots that will conform to a generic wood peg (you could also use aluminum or carbon fiber rod to make stronger pegs for smaller parts). This has the added benefit of preventing the seams from being a structural element and almost entirely shifting the challenge to just hiding the seams rather than trying to make them as strong as the rest of the print.
@GalaxyBuilt Жыл бұрын
I think that’s a great idea! I love when models use alignment pins. Im not an expert 3d modeler yet to be able to modify files too much, but when I can I love when there’s a good way to align parts.
@lucasmartins5890 Жыл бұрын
man, this is exactly what I needed to see! I m just starting to weld a Elden Ring Sword and was afraid to start. Nice tips and nice video! congratz!
@GalaxyBuilt Жыл бұрын
I am so glad you found it helpful! Good luck with the sword it’s going to be awesome!
@Shadow-zi4ln Жыл бұрын
What paint did you use for the shoulders and knees?
@GalaxyBuilt Жыл бұрын
Montana black melon yellow. It’s a little bit light and bright to be honest. They have some others that are a bit darker and slightly more orange. But the weathering I did darkened it enough I think. Hope that helps!
@Shadow-zi4ln Жыл бұрын
@@GalaxyBuilt hey thanks for the reply! I’ve been following your guide for weathering and the different paints and have enjoyed using the Montana black stuff you’ve suggested. The main green especially for the armor and helmet, so far it’s turning out great! Thank you for your help!
@Shadow-zi4ln Жыл бұрын
@@GalaxyBuilt what do you also use for boba symbol on his chest? Color wise
@ziggyzig4235 Жыл бұрын
Amazing Video! What jacket/ turtle neck do you use for this cosplay?
@GalaxyBuilt Жыл бұрын
Thank you! So I bought the Sky Costumes version of Boba Fett and took their armor off. Underneath I literally have a plain black sweatshirt and I am just wearing a black infinity scarf around my neck. Its cheap but I think it works!
@logansellars8377 Жыл бұрын
What app did you use to get your 3d head scan? I’ve tried a few and had no luck.
@GalaxyBuilt Жыл бұрын
So I used several. The one that made my whole head the best and properly stitched the back and dealt with artifacts and kept the accurate scaling was EM3D. I will say tho, that for like the face or sharper detailing ScandyPro is quite good. But none of the apps did the whole head as well as EM3D.