Smoothing 3D Prints | How to Make Boba Fett Part 5

[@GalaxyBuilt]

Use code GALAXYBUILT at galacticarmory.net/ for 10% off at checkout!

[@crazylegsmurphy]

Based on my experience starting off with Bondo spot putty is like attaching $10 bills to helium balloons and just letting them go. The amount sanded off is just a waste of money. The 2 in 1 sandable filler primer is where I recommend starting. Start with pretty light coats and sand. The idea is that you're sanding the filler primer down so it stays in the low spots and you sand down to the high spots. Then, repeat with another coat until it becomes smooth. If you just blast a can of filler primer and sand it, all you're doing is like the Bondo, wasting the paint because you've already filled the low spots, but now you're just building up layers that do very little good. Think of it like trying to repair a screw hole in drywall. You put on some of the drywall compound and cover the screw. You can of course keep layering on compound, but all you're doing is sanding down the excess and you risk creating a bulge. If you do lighter layers and sand in between, your low and high spots begin to equal out. Then, if you have lines that are suborn, or shallow seam lines, you can use the spot putty to fill those gaps and then sand. For large gaps, seams, or support lines, use a 2-part epoxy (hobby epoxy) to fill them and sand down. Spot putty is not designed for deep gaps and is likely to crumble if put on too thick. By using 2 in 1 sandable filler primer I can get a part smooth with very little effort. I tend to use very little spot putty if any on most parts. Oh... and one more tip. Wet sand whenever possible (400 grit. Any higher and you risk your paint not sticking). It stops the paper from getting gunked up and it produces a better result. Let's just say my water bill has gone up because I do therapy sanding in the shower. :D

[@GalaxyBuilt]

I do agree with most of what you said! Now I usually do bondo on the tops of helmets or other areas where the layers stair step. I have also switched to duplicolor filler primers as I like it a lot more! I have also been using UV resin quite a bit. Its fun to brush on and makes my process much faster. I also do a wet sand of 320 before moving up to 600. Fantastic tips in your comment I think we all really appreciate it!

[@gregmacausland6952]

Great video series on your Boba Fett build!

[@GalaxyBuilt]

Thank you!! I hope to get more parts uploaded soon!

[@Alexander-im8jr]

Loving your videos. I have a boba fett build going on and this is absolutely perfect. Thank you

[@GalaxyBuilt]

That is awesome I am so glad they’re helping! I want the tutorial to be as in depth as possible. More parts will be on the way to getting uploaded soon! I’m sorry for the delays and so glad you’re getting something from these videos!

[@Alexander-im8jr]

@@GalaxyBuilt it’s quite alright my man. I know it’s not an over night process making videos etc. have to record the work, then edit the videos. Have a YT channel also. I’ve sent you a message on Instagram

[@Fadedthanahoe8]

UR BACK!

[@laminateB1onicle]

This is sick it’s good when you make it so easy to follow and to do everything you do And I’m printing this on ONE ender 3 pro soo it takes me forever 😅

[@GalaxyBuilt]

I am so glad these videos are helping! Yeah the ender 3 def requires more splitting of parts but it sure is possible!

[@laminateB1onicle]

Yea and i only use free thingiverse files some is really good and some not really but I’m happy that you make these boba fett videos

[@GalaxyBuilt]

@@laminateB1onicle I mostly use free files as well. In fact, the Boba Fett armor from Galactic Armory was the first file I ever actually purchased!

[@laminateB1onicle]

@@GalaxyBuilt oh that’s nice

[@TheMrDeathbiker]

Just got to the primer part 😅 lol still need to printer the jetpack, just waiting on wife to get out of my game room...

[@HawkWorley]

That turned out great! I tend to shy away from 3d resin prints. I feel they are a bit fragile, but I guess the point of having a printer is you can always print another if needed.

[@GalaxyBuilt]

Thank you! Yeah there is definitely a balance between resin and fdm. I think both have their place and their jobs they do better than the other.

[@HawkWorley]

@@GalaxyBuilt i tend to over complicate my builds and make silicone molds with epoxy resin parts. Why make just 1 thing when I can spend much more and make 1 thing...

[@GalaxyBuilt]

@@HawkWorley That is really awesome! Makes reproducing parts so much more efficient.

[@anthonydominguez2913]

Armor just looks amazing! I'm sorry if you've answered this somewhere already, but with the Boba Fett Armor DIY for sale on your site, how far along is that set? If I were to order it, where would I start in the process on your videos? Thanks again, have been dying to get into building a set but don't know where to start as a novice.

[@GalaxyBuilt]

So the site that these files and printed pieces are for sale on is galactic armory which is not my site but I do have a promo code with his site you can use which is GALAXYBUILT. The physical pieces he sells are printed and I believe have supports removed. You’ll start with the smoothing process and move on to texturing and painting. His website is a great resource if you want to make your own armor but don’t have a 3d printer! If you plan on making other things or costumes as well I recommend getting a printer because it’s quite cost effective. But I can definitely vouch that he offers high quality stuff and I definitely recommend checking it out!

[@anthonydominguez2913]

@@GalaxyBuilt Thanks bro! Looking forward to watching future videos!

[@GalaxyBuilt]

@@anthonydominguez2913 Thank you!!

[@fxgilbert2374]

hey there, after the bondo do u sand back with 220 or go with 400 wet sand?

[@GalaxyBuilt]

So it sort of depends. If you cake the bondo on pretty thick maybe start with 220 and then work up but if it’s not too thick it should be easy to sand with like 400 or 600. And wet sanding isn’t totally necessary until you’re at the last stages but one reason I do it is wet sanding helped with the mess management because sanding bondo is a very messy process. Normally these types of projects don’t require sanding higher than 600 or 800.

[@Shadow-zi4ln]

What paint did you use for the shoulders and knees?

[@GalaxyBuilt]

Montana black melon yellow. It’s a little bit light and bright to be honest. They have some others that are a bit darker and slightly more orange. But the weathering I did darkened it enough I think. Hope that helps!

[@Shadow-zi4ln]

@@GalaxyBuilt hey thanks for the reply! I’ve been following your guide for weathering and the different paints and have enjoyed using the Montana black stuff you’ve suggested. The main green especially for the armor and helmet, so far it’s turning out great! Thank you for your help!

[@Shadow-zi4ln]

@@GalaxyBuilt what do you also use for boba symbol on his chest? Color wise

[@ryanmiller8090]

What did you use for all the soft parts??

[@GalaxyBuilt]

I used the Boba Fett costume that is up on Sky Costumes, just had to seam rip the vinyl armor off of it, along with a couple other modifications. Ill have a video on that in the future. Its not the most accurate option out there but its definitely the best accuracy to price ratio. A good soft parts kit for Boba Fett runs about $700 and I only paid $130. It works for now for sure.

[@laminateB1onicle]

Did you give up or just a break😢

[@GalaxyBuilt]

I know I know! Don’t worry I’ll be posting more. I’ve had some stuff going on but I will be posting more soon!!

[@laminateB1onicle]

OoOH taught you gave up on boba 😁