seems like in a few years you will have a rust bucket. Slip fit means scratching the frame and scratchs gonna be a great place for rust to start.

Good Info to have!! Thank you and you made me Laugh. the 3 videos I watched before yours the slabs here the same size as the building

can you recommend any alternative to versatube that offers a similar product that would be better? Alternatively, I was thinking to just order the skeleton kit and cut my own OSB/Plywood and panel it up and add panel steel on the sides, and do asphalt and OSB for roof?? THanks for the video

I priced a 20×30×9 1-10' roll up door. Price was $5,600 before the COVID planeddemic.

$4,500. For 160 sqft. You got suckered kid.

Thanks for the very informative video

I noticed they sell just the frame without the siding, so that shows they are only concerned with the frame features, not the entire structure. Great video, the truth is the truth 👍👍

Glad I watched this video before I bought a 24 by 30 Versatube building...............

Thank you. If I order from Versatube I will get the frame only.

Thank you for the info, sorry for your issues I was wondering about their products

I just did a 18x20 Pinnacle Series carport. I am closing it in with T-111. My roof had 4 purlins on each slope that added support to the sheet metal. Overall very happy with the quality of the product.

I was just at their site before I came here...I was pretty interested... until I saw their sheetmetal was 29 gage !!! I worked in sheetmetal for a while and seeing this I'm sure that people have NO IDEA how thin of sheetmetal this is. Hell, even the premium 26 Ga is super thin... especially when we are talking about a structure that might be susceptible to wind, hail, etc. That super thin skin would be a deal breaker for me, although the framing by itself might be ok. Do you have the option to purchase extra pieces.. like extra tubing or extra sheetmetal sheets/trim? Seems like it would have been helpful to you to have an extra sheet of siding and trim in the kit. In hindsight, would it have made more sense to just get the frame and purchase the sheetmetal yourself locally? Nice review, thanks!

Thank you for saving me from Versatube!

Snow load?

Oh, my! Words! How dare they use words! Don't they know that words mean nothing, but pictures are what we need? And how dare they make us think, do hard, careful work, and be creative? Who do they think we are? People who can think logically and use common sense?!

Great video, i saved it and have gone back and watched it to replace the it again!!!

Finally! BEST explanation ever. Now is your turn Ford. Yes they should explain who was the engineer who came out with this absurd way of releasing the pipes of a fuel pump module. Is like let's make it hard for people so they would break them apart when they try to replace their pumps. The red line seems the hardest one. Mechanics usually break that one even when using not too much force .

"there's so many words, not enough pictures" OMG. an in depth review made by someone who barely knows how to build anything.

A taller faucets

Great videos, thanks very much. Thought I'd mention that there are 3 O-rings to replace and that is why there are 3 in the package. The 3rd O-ring is underneath the collar (cylindrical piece). That piece can be pulled straight up to remove it and expose the 3rd O-ring between it and the inner stem.

Thank you

My children didn’t wine that much!! Nothings perfect in life! It looks great to me, be proud of your accomplishment. They sold you what you wanted. Did you expect them to erect it for you?

Thanks for taking the time to share your DIY experience. We need more videos like this!

Great explanation & helped me soooo much!

I'm so confused as to why the siding is all installed horizontally. I have never ever seen someone install metal siding horizontally like that. I have a Versatube garage and it shows on like 5 different pages how the siding should go on.

Great clip! Thank you!

12 years ago, and this video helped immensely today. Thanks! Saved me tons of $

OK... you convinced me I'm getting one !

so basically get the frame only version, and pay someone else to do the siding/roof

Looks good, ya get what ya pay for! All the upgrades you ask for, will put the kit price out of reach. Of a lot of us. At least there are Americans building the frame.

I looks good for what you paid. The newest ones, in 2022 are somewhat better.

I have been in the trade since before high school, I'm 67 and these are made for someone with some knowledge of building. It's not an exact science. My dad had no knowledge of building and did the best he could. My VersaTube is going to be a trip, I can tell.

Probably should've put rubber flashing between the frame and concrete. That most likely would've stopped alot of the water. Your first mistake was that you shouldn't have built it on your driveway. It should have been built on it's own slab .

Thanks for the review. I was looking at Versatube, and now I don't think they can do what I want, and it's less a "kit" than I was expecting. Good job on it. My house and garage both have dirt right up against the foundation -- people do that all the time. There's a sidewalk right next to the house and garage, but it isn't part of the building pour. The slab you built is like a carport slab -- I think that's what you were thinking about more than a building foundation. Building foundations need what's called a stem wall to get the sill plate, in your case the base rail, up above the grade to keep water from running into your building. Then the siding can come down over the outside of the stem wall as close to the ground as you like and it will shed water outside the building. If you settled on a 4" stem wall, you'd tell Versatube you want a 7' 8" ceiling height and a 6' 8" door opening (say). The stem wall gets you to 8'. Of course there's no stem wall where the garage door goes. What keeps water out of the garage door is supposed to be a "driveway" sloped away from the door, and a gasket. It is really, really hard to keep water out permanently, over the whole life of the building. It's more important to have a way for water to get out -- for the building to dry, than it is to exclude every drop. You basically can't.

That was brutal to watch. I admire your determination to DIY, however 90% of you r complaints/problems can easily be resolved with proper technique. I have construction and fabrication background, I will say you tripped over your own feet on a lot of it. It looks good in the end though. Also all pads are to be poured to size for the buildings and have wayward sloping skirts all around it.

Excellent job. My question is. Would it be easier to buy 2 x 4 and space them approximate 2 feet and install the sides and back vertical? The roof you solved the problem of spacing and i feel like i would add more 2 x 4 there as well. Shame you had to complete the engineering for this building. Was going to get one as just the framing kit alone and buy my own siding and roof. Now I'm leaning more towards a pole barn type building where i'm sure of the dimensions. THX

The foundation issue and cutting at the sill is your fault. Properly designed Buildings are built with a foundation that aligns on the outside frame of stud. If you want concrete, you must poor separately, or provide a curb. It is very common for dirt to be outside of the exterior wall. The buildings are cheap and you get what you pay for. They are a the best value for what it is.

Liked. Very helpful. Do any of the big box stores sell Moen cartridges and other parts? ( Orings etc) Or must you buy them from Moen? Can't seem to find Moen parts online.

How did you attach your 2 x 4's to the roof rafters? What length 2 x 4's did you use?

Wonderful video. I have a very old sink and this was clear and spot on. Used a moen cartridge puller, very easy

It seems to me that there were unrealistic expectations. Looking at a possible order, there was nothing I saw that led me to believe that the sheet metal would be pre-cut. It just lists out lengths of metal. Part of your issues were ignorance on your part. You will never be able to get a building to seal around the bottom set on a slab like you did yours. Had you done it properly, you would have had around a 1.5" ledge around the slab that would have used up that length of the rib in your metal. That would have eliminated a couple of your problems. Properly done, you would pour the concrete around the building at the level of the bottom of that ledge, thus keeping water away from your building. Not to be rude, but it appears that the quality of the building matches the quality of the slab it was poured on...it looks like in the video that the slab is far from smooth and free of dips and rises. This is also going to create lots of issues when it comes to laying out the building and squaring it up. It is a DIY structure, but I guess it was more than you wanted to DIY.

Bro i am sorry but this review show's you truly dont have much Fabrication skills or experience dealing with metal. First u complained of having to put the building closer to your house beacuse of where they placed the first pallet. I should had stopped watching there. This is REDICLOUS

Geez! No cheese with all that whine????

Well I was going to order one of these, price is awesome. But after seeing some of this! I will pass.

You still got that?

Talked me out of Versatube. It's more expensive anyway. Your implementation was awesome. I think the kit with pre-cut panels is the better choice. Thanks for the great review. Love the occasional camera sweep of the mountains in the background.

You need to build a regular wood frame the building and compared to this ease of this metal building. You're Expecting way too much. If you use wood framing it's five times harder!

Great video with good photography and instruction. My problem was the handle would be difficult to open and close with using a great amount of force. I did not have the model # of the faucet so could not buy the part needed before pulling it out. Problem was It was so stuck tight I could not pull it out. So I poured in CLR around the cartridge and pushed and pulled the top control loosening it up and poured more CLR while pumping it. I put it all back together and has been working perfectly now for 2 weeks without replacing the cartridge. So this is another quick fix option to try.

just do a heavy bead of premium caulking around the bottom to weather seal it from water.

Should maybe have used a product called seal seal under the bottom channel in between it and the slab. It looks like a strip of foam kinda and is made to prevent water from running in.