I watched a bunch of these videos. They made it look easy. "Bullcrap". it was the biggest pain in the ass i have ever worked on. I even had the flex ratchet tool. You just can't get your hand back in there to get any leverage. And everything is in the way. Putting back in was even harder took me even longer. Becuase it has to line up right. I also ripped my hands open a bunch of times. This is the worst F**king design i have ever seen. Finally got mine out almost 2 hours later and It was still working fine when i tested it. Good thing too because The new part I bought from amazon for $28 ,Didn't even work. I tested both parts to see if it would work better. Man would i have been pissed. It would have been faster to just take the whole dash out. Becuase that way if actuator isn't broken, it's likely the heater core is plugged. Or its a broken blend door. Either way. At least you can replace any other faulty part right away while dash is all apart. So now i'm doing a rad flush and try to reverse flush the core at the same time. Hopefully that works. If not that means the core is pouched. Then it will be another 4 or 5 hour job.

When you buy a new one do you have to set the blue wheel to the same spot as the one you took out. Please let me know ASAP my tool will be here tomorrow and I want to get it fixed I need my A/C for now and the heat will be coming soon as this is the middle of September 2024.

Thanks I'm the young lad that locked his sharps container shut with nothing inside. You're video corrected my mistake.

You pin pointed that problem out for me.. I've been going bonkers looking through my seats for bolts or I Thought when I push down my seats, the seatbelt is hitting metal Lol I even took the bottom seat out and drove around 😆 my neighbors prob thought I'm trippen out haha! Now I know! Thanks!

10:12 am August 17, 2024 You are a smart man. Great fix. The White Stallion is again running free with his nose in the wind. ( 2001 Ford Ranger 238,000 miles)

Spray bolts week before?

Darn i have the same noise on my mkz was kinda hoping it was just an adjustment gonna have to go with new shocks.

Im dealing with this and a bumpy ride but i just replaced struts maybe a month ago

Same issue I’m having 2014 ford fusion. Replaced the shock and now im having this same sound. Will try to tighten the bolt again

Dorman makes a bed bolt repair kit.

You should show your face! I had the exact same problem with the 2003 ranger - dreaded clickety buzz. I checked out my ground screw, no rust, (California )unscrewed it screwed it again after sanding contact and bingo! Many thanks!

fuel line connections @ fuel filter no tool dohicky bad seal....🎉🥩🍗🚣‍♂️🙋🏻🦈🐗🏴‍☠️🕉️🗡️🐧🧉

So why didn’t the driver side air impact go off? Looks like the only airbag that did go off was the passenger side airbag, because the driver side never went off. Not good for FORD 🤭🤭🤭

Didn't save me money, but this video helped me to identify what was going on with my 2016 Fusion. I had a pretty similar noise coming from the driver's side rear. I found this video before I took it in to the shop. I mentioned when I dropped it off that I had found this video with a similar issue and because of that I was pretty sure I had a shock that needed to be replaced. Still took the shop 2 days to identify the issue and even then, they reluctantly decided to replace shocks because they couldn't figure out what else would be making the noise. When I finally picked it up, the service manager mentioned, that he told the techs that the owner had found a video that make him think it was the shocks...guess the message didn't make it back to the techs.

You're a piece of art good sir. Thank you.

excellent and concise title steve

lower case accident

Thank you so much for saving me a ton of money and time with this video! High five brother

I would've thought the side airbag on the drive side of your car should have went off instead of the passenger side, in order to protect your head since it moved around a lot in this accident. Hope you are doing well!

Wish you had shown where to attach the fuel pressure gauge. I can’t find the schrader valve anywhere

That headrest is absolutely terrible

Looked like phone in hand in the car that rear-ended him.

:038, driver has object (phone?) in left hand above steering wheel,,,, a-hole

Bro! Insane’s not the word.

Excellent job sir

That is why, when you are on a motorway etc and have to really slow down, use your emergency lights.

Just an idea: if traffic all of a sudden stops and you’re the last one in line, rapidly tap your brakes to flash the brake lights as a warming. If you’re on the highway and traffic abruptly slows/stops turn on your hazard flashers.

To a degree it doesn’t really matter what he was doing prior to the impact, there’s inattentive driving laws, reckless, driving laws, one could even stretch it a little further, and even say there’s criminal assault laws that would cover a crash such as this. It doesn’t matter if he was too busy doing a crossword puzzle or talking on the phone or gazing out the window at cows in the field, the results are the same.

U a hero big dawg

Putting the gauge on the filter the pressure has to hold for how long mine go all to 105psi but is like 15 minutes is dropping to 50 psi

You are by far the best out there demonstrating all different possible causes. Every word you say makes so much sense and echoes far and deep. Your logic in troubleshooting is just amazing and perfect. 2001 Ranger 4.0 XLT, 106K miles, 2nd owner since bought in 2016 (I live in Dallas; original owner was from rural Nebraska - lots of rust underneath); Have had intermittent start issues(i.e 2+ weeks the engine will crank but no start, then out of nowhere, no reason, it will fire up and be ok for a week or so). My biggest concern was taking the gas tank down where all bolts underneath are totally rusted. Then i watched this video and the lightbulb came on! .... no need to mess from underneath. Removed the original bed liner (breaking 6 out of 8 bolts that secure the 4 U-shaped, two-hole brackets (for strapping), and then the very fwd/driver's side bed bolt sheared off. But that is nothing to compare if i were to remove totally rusted hardware underneath. Thanks to you, probably you saved me a week's breaking&fixing rusty hardware. You are one of a kind....many, many thanks!

Thank God, just recently got an 05 ranger and I've been having this same issue minus the codes, I suspected it was the pump but now that I know how to test it you have possibly saved me a lot of time, money, and emotions. Also to anyone having this issue, if it's the same as mine, an easy way to get your truck started until you can fix it is to: before trying to start it you turn your key to accessory mode let it sit for e second, turn it off and then immediately turn it over.

I have the exact same issue, but it's on both sides. Thank you for this!!!

I have a 90 Ranger and thought the check valve was part of the fuel line going in the tank? If it’s part of the fuel pump then a new pump should have fixed my problem? Your truck is a newer model so maybe different? OzarkMark

97 Chevy Blazer glove box doesn't come out

Dont feel bad man, not all of us are supermodels, I know i sure aint one 😂 thx for the video brother💪💪

Hi Steve, I hope you are ok. CaN i use this video on my channel ?Any comment or updates? Thanks

i tightened the top nut about 1/2 turn and the noise went away. Did not even have to take the wheel off. It was hard to get the wrench on the nut properly with the rust and dirt build up but once i got it on properly, it turned no problem.

Jesus Christ that was a HUGE hit

Mine is were the wires where u unbolted the glove box and now the wires are tight

Man, that looked like a hard hit… it really jerked you around. Hope u and the other person was ok.

great video ! looking for some advice on my 2000 ford 2.5l. i have a lean code, checked for vacuum leaks with a smoke machine. there was smoke coming out of the idle air control valve's(IAC) top/breaher cap/vent (not sure want its called), and on the Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR valve) vents holes . wanted to know if that was normal?

Hey! Could I feature this? Credit will be guaranteed!

Hey ! May I use your clip in my video with credit and link ? What happened before-after this ? Do you have comment ?

That was bad, are you ok?

Quick question... i have the same thing. has driven me nuts for a while now. but got used to it. Daughter is now driving my car so i HAVE to fix it. Just the shock, there were no issues with the bracket itself? just want to make sure before i dive into it.

Hi, May I have your permission to use this clip in a compilation? Thanks!

Nice job👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

My 2008 has a furl filter that has 3 lines going to it. One line comes from the tank where the fuel pump is. One line goes to the engine. The 3rd line is smaller and goes back to the tank. It has a small orifice in it to drop fuel pressure to 0 when the engine is off. So there is no fuel pressure even after installing a new fuel pump when the engine is off.

Thank you, you just saved my marriage. Jk, but not really. This had been driving me nuts for 2+ years. After countless times taking apart the trunk, the door, searching around, and wiggling the wheels to look for loose joints and never finding anything, I was able to reproduce the sound by just pushing on the back of the car with my hand and sticking my other hand down in the wheel well where I could physically feel the shock moving at that joint. This video confirmed it for me. For anyone reading, you can temporarily fix this with only a 15mm wrench and NOTHING ELSE, no purchase necessary. Jack car up and support it, remove the wheel, and then simply use the 15mm wrench to tighten that bolt on top. You don't have to replace the shock or the shock mount. Now, that said, if your car is like mine, the shocks do need replaced anyway because it rides like crap, but this at least got the horrendous sound to go away. 15x easier than changing brakes. My grandmother could do this job. Thanks again.