Supra is great! It made over 600whp on my dyno, which reads low. I haven't made any videos because the video files I take with my phone can't be opened with my 16 year old computer lol. That will change soon, I should get my new PC before the end of the year and plan to make a lot more content once I can efficiently manage video editing. Thanks for following!

@mrctuned2844 dude awesome! Wasnt expecting a response so soon lol. I just was watching your old 7mgte teardown video again as im about to finally start on my 89 mk3. Im looking forward to seeing some new content from ya!

Really sorry but I sold it quite some time ago

It looks like a billet aluminum stepped spacer but they don't make it anymore

@@mrctuned2844 oh ok. I’ll just use shims and monitor situations with a regular oil pressure gauge. If the pressure is to high I’ll have to reduce shim size

@Manuqtix.Manuqtix that should work. The reason I liked the unit I installed is the shims will prevent the valve from opening fully, so depending on oil viscosity cold oil pressure can get very high. The billet spacer still allowed full valve movement with additional pressure. I've thought about trying to design a new one, just not sure I'd sell enough to make it worth the investment. My brothers own a machine shop.

They don't sell the pump upgrade anymore unfortunately. The AN size for the oil pump is a -8

I did sell the setup! It worked well when it was running though. What kind of power are you looking to get?

@@mrctuned2844 550-600 Whp

But your setup looked great more than I could achieve with the tools I have

@@loganstrand5286 I appreciate that, but if you have any specific questions to help with your build feel free to ask 👍

Hahaha I explained a few videos back why I stopped... didn't think I'd have so many people interested when I started making videos. It was just to have fun with it but it started to feel a bit un-genuine

Thank you so much Leo, I appreciate your support!

Thank you! It's actually a 2JZ-GE VVT-i from a Lexus IS300. It is built fairly stout, I'll list the major parts: JE forged pistons Manley H-Tuff rods ARP studs throughout Cometic MLX HG GSC SS comp valves GSC beehive springs GSC ti retainers GSC S2 VVT-I cams King coated race bearings Billet timing tensioner Protunerz FF intake Billet 75mm TB ID1300X injectors IGN-1A coils Billet valve covers Xona Rotor 8264S Turbo My own turbo manifold Full stainless 3.5" exhaust Car is extremely responsive and drives so well. I'll be working on a video where I show some data logs of some dyno pulls with the car.

@@mrctuned2844 many thanks bro...keep up the great work

It feels that way too if I'm honest! Thanks for watching 😎👍

Thank you John! It's an honor to have you following me

Unfortunately no, and it hadn't been available for some time now

Do you sell that part

@@jorgecarrillo3812 No I do not.

My son and I are building a 89 mke like yours any recommendations for piston ring brands and main ring and cam rings... are build is nothing crazy just a bit more than standard build..if that makes any sens

@@jorgecarrillo3812 Absolutely, Total Seal makes the best rings in the world in most peoples opinion. As far as main and cam "rings" I'm not sure I understand what you mean. If you meant bearings, the camshaft doesn't contain replaceable bearings. Main and rod bearings can be King, ACL, or Clevite.

Technically that's called the cylinder, but we refer to the measurement of the cylinder as the "bore" or "bore size".

@@mrctuned2844 thank you. I learned something new. So would the piston also match the bore size as well?

@@TheMrFlyBoy18 typically an aftermarket piston will be for a certain bore size, but the machine shop will need the pistons to properly size the bores. Every piston needs a certain amount of "piston to wall clearance", and this measurement depends on the type of piston used. Forged pistons "grow" more with heat than a cast or hyper piston do, thus requiring more clearance.

@@mrctuned2844 thank you for the knowledge 🙏🏾 its gonna help me when I build my ej257 on my hawkeye

The oil issues in my opinion CAN be remedied fully, but it does take some money to do so. The factory system of bleeding excess pressure through the cooler and into the sump, is in my opinion a very poor design. As the factory relief spring fatigues, system pressure drops as a result. As power levels increase, a rise in oil pressure is needed on the 7M to keep the bearings happy. The best option is to delete the factory oil filter housing and replace it with a thermostatic oil cooler unit. This will allow the oil to flow through the cooler when temperature allows the thermostat to open, but doesn't dump it back into the sump. As far as the oil pressure relief valve on the pump itself, just shimming the spring is a bad idea as it leads to coil bind in the spring. Sadly the machined option to add a 2nd spring hasn't been available for some years. I would love to take over this job but I need someone to donate a good pump to me for development. As far as the cylinder head, the alloy used seems to anneal easier than modern heads. The head isn't very rigid when compared with newer units. It can still work, but you need to start with a head that hasn't been overheated. You can send the head in to get it treated and increase its hardnss, but this is something I don't have experience with.

@@mrctuned2844 thank you so much for the advice man! Ive taken on a beater 87 turbo as a project with the r154. I recently had the engine overheat from a hg failure. Ive always planned to rebuild the bottom end with aftermarket internals and im hoping to pull it soon. Im not interested in building the 7m because its cheap per say but more to prove it can be a capable engine. My other question is about the crank. Mine is the earlier 7mgte with the 6m crank. Is there really much reason for me to swap to the 7m

7m crank on the late model engines*

@@TheTankGeo You are welcome! I will be starting to upload videos on modifying the 7M in the next few weeks, just waiting on some better sound equipment for better recording audio. In short, the older 6M crank will be fine for lower hp, lower max RPM setups. With elevated RPM and torque applied to the 6M crank, you'll most likely start to see some whipping and flexing of the crankshaft due to the offset bobweights. The later 7M crank much more closely resembles the 2JZ crank and most later turbo import crankshafts. Some people open up clearances on the mains when using a flexible crank, but this allows the crank to move further away from the centerline and this is detrimental to the balance of the rotating assembly. I can't give you an exact number for hp or RPM that you can push the 6M crank to, but if you plan to lean on the motor a bit, I'd look for a 7M crank.

@@mrctuned2844 thanks again man. Ive got a couple of suspension upgrades inbound soon. Are you deleting anything from the engine bay on this build?

I have a couple more general videos to do, and then I will go more specifically into 7M stuff! Very busy currently, its a struggle to find time to get one out every week. I have not given up yet! Thank you for watching!

Completely understand. Take care man. Looking forward to more content.

Thank you, glad you enjoy them! And yes, I went through and upgraded my R154 and put a JZ bell housing on it. It is very nearly going in the car. Getting excited!

Thank you so much John!

I ran a Garrett 60-1 with the P trim turbine wheel. Had excellent response and top end power.

Just had other priorities, but I'm making my best effort to keep some good content coming!

@@mrctuned2844 i get it people get busy. We are gonna need some more mk3 content tho its been like 3 years.

@@kakanator once I get through a couple more general modification videos I'll get a bit more MK3 specific!

@@mrctuned2844 sweet

Honestly, I would recommend it no matter what power level. The original design is very flawed, and knowing it's like that would always hold some worry in my mind. Upgrade and forget!

You are very welcome, thanks for the support! Is there a topic you'd like to hear for this week's video?

I'm really sorry to have to tell you this, but I bought it and shorty after they ceased to exist. I'm not sure who was making them or I would see if I could get him to make another batch

@@mrctuned2844 alright, thanks a lot anyways. I’ll have to try to find sth similar, I really don’t want to just put washers in