@@thebackwoodsmechanic5029 yea especially with the discount it’s a score.

@@jonjones-v5d thanks, yea it was an interesting project.

@@kosmin1448 I didn’t need to replace one. just removed this one so not sure… but if I remember right Yukon made one that looks different than all the basic ones.

@@Technically-Matt Thanks, yea I’m not too familiar with the side feed injectors. It’s crazy how cheap you can make these for if you can find some good scrap. Good luck with it. If you need help with anything just let me know.

Thanks for the info. I haven't taken any filters out before. I need to give that a try. Why do you say compressed air is better. Wouldn't if function the same with a pump at the same pressure?

@@DesertRatRacer Насосом нужно управлять PWM. А воздух легко управляется редуктором, он давит на промывочную или тестовую жидкость делая нужное давление. Для промывки не нужны больльшие давления.

@@246alfa ok, Thank you

@@DesertRatRacer Я много стендов сделал, сейчас мою форсунки всей стране. Я не могу показать технологию но Вам могу помочь с усовершенствованием прибора. Главное, не стенды моют и не проверяют, а главное технология промывки и проверки. Если кто то думает,что стенд это главное, он глубоко ошибается. Знания и технология важней всех стендов .

very nice.

@@hanksta76 yea it would, just a little different because it’s not a station wagon. I thing the wheel base might be slightly longer on a wagon but I’d need to check. I follow someone on instagram that did their Torino coupe. I’ll try to find his page for you. He did the the body swap though I believe instead of just installing the frame.

@@hanksta76 instagram.com/peek_built?igsh=MWQ1ZGUxMzBkMA== That is the link to peek_built on instagram. He has a 68 Torino that was crown Vic body swapped. Could see his stuff and maybe pick his brain too.

@@seanbutler2291 nice I definitely need to give them a shot. Downside is the ace is down the street from me, and Lowes is over an hour away… but I can save some stuff up for when I’m near the Lowes. 😎🙌

@@joansparky4439 thanks, sorry for the shame. The possible problems from this sketched me out enough. I couldn’t even imagine if it was diesel. 😂

@@andrewsvaz no problem, Thanks, glad you liked it.

@@fossilmandrone6807 no problem, you’re welcome. Cool to hear. That’s nice you found that bit. I didn’t realize they were available like that.

@@robertdowney2141 thank you. no problem, glad it was useful. Good luck with your project.

I appreciate constructive criticism. This isn't even close to sarcastic. You might be right, I'm not 100% sure on my side. When I was figuring out what to do I searched how many amps a normal injector takes. The general consensus is 4-6 amps at peak and 1 amp sustained. The 12v rails on the power supply I have go to 18 amps. If I use more than 4.5 amps each I could trip the power supply. I might not go over 4.5 amps and be fine, but I didn't want to push my luck. Plus the wires on the injector controller are very thin. I can possibly combine rails on the power supply to split load but I'd need to check it out internally or modify it a little. After your comment I looked at a 97 mustang 4v schematic. The injectors are powered of a 20 amp fuse that controls the whole PCM as far as I can see. But that is factoring for only doing one injector at a time plus other tasks. I looked at the tool instructions again and it says to power with 12v battery or minimum 2 amp supply to run it. So that's making it sound like 1 amp minimum to run an injector, but maybe they're not factoring for peak power. So maybe I should try what you said next time I get it working. Best way to find out I guess. Nice, having the multiple connections will be good. I think this is a cool project to do. Gives you a great tool, and practice with custom mounting fuel rails.

@@1pbean I downright appreciate it. 😎🙌

@@quademasters249 I’m Glad to hear. 😎

Could be used to do a visual inspection of the spray pattern. Check for clogs, etc. I was able to confirm the ones I had were dual come, and they all appeared to be spraying fully and similar.

@@JOATJESSE thank you. 😎🙌

@@stephenharris1450 this is just for testing / trouble shooting items. Main reason I made it right now is I bought those injectors and the regulator used, and wanted to test them before the return window closed. It will be some time before they actually go on the car.

Throwing parts at a car is not using diagnostics to determine the cause a run problem. That is expensive and never answers the question, why. Why a problem exists needs answered. 1. condition 2. cause 3. Correct 4. Confirm That is the proper approach for a good repair.

@@Sunspot-19 I can agree with some preventative maintenance, but totally agree with you. Need to diagnose the problem before you just start throwing parts at stuff.

@@1magnit I’m using mineral spirits. Here is a link below with a time stamp to that part of the video. I had talked to a tech at aeromotive and he said this is what they use to bench test their fuel pumps and knew of others using for injectors. I believe it flows very similar for basic testing like I did in the video, but if you wanted super accurate flow numbers, maybe there is better options, but I’m not really sure. I heard about some other alternatives that manufactures possibly use, but I don’t remember them right off. If you google search what to use you will see quite a few options. m.kzbin.info/www/bejne/l5rUYaGHa9V9ma8&t=7m39s

@@DesertRatRacer I've done back to back tests with real fuel and every other fluid flows a different volume, all less.

Thanks for all the questions I'll do my best to answer them all. As far as I know with the power supply the main thing is just to separate all the power leads you can use. I set mine up putting all the same 12v sources together. Basically separating each 12v rail I believe. I'm still iffy and how that is setup inside, so didn't want to connect different rails together. Then just combined sets of grounds together. There is normally one wire that allows it to turn on so that wire is hooked to a switch. Then the 3v and 5v wires I capped off and there was a few extras I didn't need either. Using the info label on the side of the power supply will explain the wire colors as far as power If I remember right, but I found a schematic online for that power supply or similar that help me figure out the rest. Here is a link to a short Instagram video I did that goes over the basics. instagram.com/p/Ct0RcK_vpzn/ I'm glad you appreciate the setup. I had no idea there was leaking problems with the prebuilt units. Honestly I think this could be done for half of what I spent or less now that I know more. 1. I think the pickle jar isn't too bad. Basically just the connections in the lid and the hose clamp is pretty easy to remove. I honestly wanted to go the plastic route because less chance of breaking but in the time crunch I was in the pickle jar was the best thing I could find. The glass jar is really solid compared to the plastic options, so It has that going for it. Probably could have done a smaller tank and spent less on mineral spirits too. The mineral spirits comes in a #2 plastic bottle I believe but I might need to double check that. There are charts online about how well each material holds up to mineral spirits. 2. Wingnuts would probably work good too especially to speed things up without needing tools. I had zero issue using a deep dish socket though. 3. I'm sure you would need to look at a different electrical controllers then the one I used if you were using low impedance injectors. The electrical setup to those are more complicated then the high impedance injectors I used. 4. Yea I wanted to hook a gauge up to the fpr but didn't find the one I had at the time. I meant to add some pressure to the boost reference on the regulator also to test for pressure change, but completely forgot. Although the fpr main chamber and the fuel rail is all basically one chamber, so the pressure taken at the fuel rail I believe would be the same as the pressure at the fpr. 5. Yea it was just standard 2x4 for the sides. Pressure treated would be better probably, but I was struggling to find nice pieces without cracks. Definitely something to consider if done again. The bottom was part of an old tv tray. 6. The foam board is an interesting option. That or something similar could make the bottles even more secure. 7. The pump had a standard screen on it but I had a standard fuel filter I wanted to use, but didn't realize it was the wrong size for 3/8 line till I was putting it together, So I just cleaned everything really good and hoped for the best. So that's something I want to add in the future as well. 8. Yea fuel pressure will definitely change the flow amount, so that is a good point. Honestly wasn't even thinking about that part. I just set it to 40 psi and ran with it. So if I tested those again with a different pressure the 1in mark reference would need reevaluated. You're welcome for the idea. Lol, I'm going to have to live with the shame of misleading people apparently. I should have stated you will also need a place to work, electricity, basic tools, free time, food to power your body... etc. That's the hard part. Yes, have a good day too.

@DesertRatRacer I love the recycling ♻️ aspect of the TV tray, pickle jar, etc. Having the pickle jar with a rigid metal lid is a pretty solid setup instead of flimsy plastic. I was thinking the XL size of peanut butter jar from Sam's or other bulk store but we have those same pickle jars on hand. The comic relief at the end got me laughing. Thanks for all the responses.

no problem, happy to talk car stuff. It’s cool to make or fix something that would be trash to most. The mineral spirits was #2 plastic I double checked. I noticed a protein powder container was #2 plastic in my search, but most food stuff appears to be #1 plastic.

@@Torqued_to_Spec yea for smooth stuff like that they don’t work very good.

@@Go4BrokeOffroad thank you, thats a good idea, and just a simple add on. I appreciate the help.

@@aaronleiter9009 no problem, it still has the additional 5% off too. a.co/d/hk6Imiq

@@Rebel635csi yes, seriously that’s how it worked. You can buy used AN fittings and even get them for free, but I explained in the video this could be done with hose clamps. AN fittings were left over in my dads stuff. Also explained in the video the regulator is part of what was being tested, and you could hardline that part if you don’t need to test a regulator. So regulator isn’t part of the test bench price. Technically you need fuel injectors to run the test too, but they’re for the car, and not part of the test bench price either. Intake manifold free scrap from someone I help sell some cars for years ago. Angle iron, measuring tape, strong tie, and hardware free from someone I met that was moving. Glass jars $4, pickle jar… leftover after eating pickles. Felt from inside a safe I got for free. Met the dude to talk about an Rv, let with a truckload of stuff. Fuel line $8 with coupon. Fuel pump and glue for free from a guy having a yard sale, and wanted me to take a bunch of stuff. Fuel rail left over from a Mark VIII I scrapped out for profit over 10 years ago. Funnel free from someone who was giving away car ramps, ended up getting multiple truck loads of stuff for free. Shelf parts / 2x4 free from side of road. Power supply from computer I scraped out and profited from. Grommets, wire, and electrical connectors… Most free or left over from scrapped cars or projects…. The electric control was the most expensive at $23 ish, and that can be made from spare parts too. I counted the cost of the test fluid at $19 ish, which wasn’t necessary for raw test bench price. It’s not hard to find deals or stuff for free if you’re looking for it. I would also assume most people tacking a project like this will have stuff laying around like extra hose clamps, screws, scrap wood, and metal. Can easily get on a local Facebook community page and ask if anyone has a spare / broken intake manifold laying around. Knowing what I know know I could do this for even cheaper. Probably in the $30 range and make something very similar.

@@DesertRatRacer I’m not reading that wall of text. If I go and buy something with my Amex points and it doesn’t cost me anything do I get to say “it was free”? No.

@@Rebel635csi You had brought up points that were clearly explained in the video. So I made sure to respond in full detail on everything so it was clear where every part came from, and how it’s possible to get things for free or cheap. I’m not sure why you’re now bringing up credit card points. No where did I factor points into my total spend, but either way I’d count points more in the discount / rebate category that you just receive later. Similar to the $5 discount card I used to buy the fuel line. It wasn’t free but lowered total cost of the Fuel Injector Tester.

Anyone doing the type of work on a car where injector flow matters usually has this stuff sitting around. If you haven't swapped a intermittent fuel pump (that would be great for use here), then are you really a "car guy"?

@@stevewiley3832 I agree, all is pretty basic stuff to come across. I am looking forward to testing used pumps before I install on a vehicle, hopefully avoiding some intermittent pumps or similar. 😎🙌

@@Sunspot-19 thanks, basically went one step at a time and it worked out pretty good.

@@jameskim62 thanks, took a little longer than expected to make, but it should be a nice tool to have around.

See what happens when ingenuity and imagination get together and blow your mind?

@@Sunspot-19 🤣 no joke, I should do it more often.

If u build me one I pay u $150

@@tracyscott70 I appreciate the offer, but can’t bite off any more projects like that right now.

@@keiths9483 oh ok

@@steventhompson4315 In this video I’m basically connecting to the wire that runs down to the starter. If that wire is messed up you could run a separate temporary wire to the starter solenoid, and use a switch like this or something similar to power the wire from the battery.

@DesertRatRacer thank you Naomi is there 2 wires off the starter and the yellow wire to the starter?

@@steventhompson4315 no problem, I don’t have the mustang anymore to check, but should be able to look at the starter and double check. Should just be the big wire from the battery and the small wire to power the solenoid. Not sure the color of wire or the fastener holding the small wire on the mustang but should be able to remove the small wire and connect new wire to there.

@@justintrest this one got parted out, but I’m about to pull the 70 galaxie to the front yard soon, and start tinkering with it. The parts from that Marquis were for the galaxie.

Nice, no problem, you’re welcome. I’m glad it helped.

Exactly, it didn’t break from being seized otherwise it work be hard to remove. Probably broke from the force of the cross pin where it touches that bolt. Maybe just a bad choice of bolt or something. I’ve seen some aftermarket ones that are built a little different. The shank basically is the same size all the way through.

Nice, That's cool to hear. They really are good engines.

My dad was the main driver, he said he liked them. That they stiffened up the frontend a lot. I didn’t get enough time behind the wheel either way… but if you’re just cruising and only needing to replace one, or just rebuild on a budget I think the stocks are fine. If everything needs an overhaul or looking for greater performance then these might be the route. Loosing the steering stops is kind of annoying, but we already had a weird problem with that on this car. If you do end up getting them, and have any other questions I’ll be happy to help.

@@DesertRatRacer thank you very much, very helpful!

@@broncwheeler no problem, you’re welcome. Happy to help. 😎👊

That's a good idea. Yea it is very common. I just noticed yukon gear might make a stronger one. It looks different. Everyone looks to be selling direct replacement ones.

@@DesertRatRacer I can't be the 1st to think of it. Lots of folks with lathe capability to make those. I'm just down this rat hole now where I see a problem and see the fix as the removal kit. Thanks for feedback. Reviewing the replacement part now from a metallurgy view. Don't want to make a pile of these and see it was not a good idea.

@@johnm840 no problem, I didn't see any really talking about the problem or saying their bolt fixes it. So that might be something.

@@DesertRatRacer My Pin came out with no effort. Stopping days earlier and thinking helped. Found a guy doing exhaust bolts saying to torque the bolt tighter then looser , going back and forth, limited torque so you don't bust it off. I tried this. Then used old POS HF air ratchet that didn't have much power to it. Same deal tighten/loosen. Bolt just came out . Going to make a new pin out of 17-4 PH that will increase material strength from ~ 50 - 60 kpsi to 200 kpsi on tensile strength. Figured what the hell, Figure I will not ever see this particular bolt again. Why 17-4 over other choices? I got material on Rack and can heat treat it with ease. Just 1 hour at 900C and air cool.

@@johnm840 that’s an interesting technique. I feel like a lot of times they’re already broke before removing. The last one I did in this video the broke piece could have been spun out by hand. So if it was seized enough to cause a break I don’t think that would be the case… unless I’m missing something. Either way I’m happy you got yours out in one piece, and it definitely can use an upgrade. You kind of loose me at the material selection and stuff. That’s above my pay grade. I’d watch a video about you upgrading the bolt material. It would be interesting. 😎🙌

Yea those might work better on smooth stuff.

Don’t have much experience with this harbor freight version yet, but I was surprised at how it slipped on the narrow tool steel.

Crazy, I need to contact them and see what happened. 🤔

Oh nice, 😎🙌

Thank you sir. Those pins can be quite the pain when they’re all seized and hard to get to. 😎🙌

Yea some stores still exchange, but going in and having a ratchet or something repaired on the spot in sears was really nice.

Crazy… I’m hearing that from a lot of people. 🤔

Damn.. yea just got a random email at the beginning of the month with the coupon. I’m thinking maybe it’s a new thing for harbor freight credit card holders… or they were randomly trying to lure me into the store. 😂

@DesertRatRacer ya I ain't got a harbor freight credit card I think I'm smarter than that

@@james10739 😂💁‍♂️

Oh nice, you’re welcome,

Yea, I wonder if it’s a German thing or a knipex thing.

😎🙌

@@DesertRatRacer how are you

@@jeremynguyen2346 good, what’s up with you?

@@DesertRatRacer good 👍 not much just finished ✅ taking shower 🧼 and excercising

@@jeremynguyen2346 nice 😂, if you ever want to talk car / tool stuff just let me know.

I don’t think they’re putting anyone out of business, there probably is two different markets. People who want the best name brand, and others who need better deals.

I think it was sent because I have a harbor freight credit card.

@@DesertRatRaceri got the card from day 1 and buy allot and never got nothing you are special is seems

@@TruthSeekerAi oh weird, maybe it’s a new thing this year.

Yea, could have used something like this for many years.