Would love to knoiw what router bit you use to prep the edges for the panel glue-ups.

I have a technical question for you. Not sure if you can help or not. I built an RO system similar to yours. I can not get one side to flow at all. Is there anyway I could send you either photos or a video of what I have put together? And is there anything I should be looking at. Pump is good, running 4 ro filters, and I get good flow out of one line but nothing out of the other. Thank you

Excellent job.

Sam you are quite the craftsman! Very impressed.

Great video. Seems to be working for me but the pvc fittings from the 5 mc filter are leaking and I was wondering if I need gaskets or switch to brass. Teflon tape doesn't seem to be cutting it and I feel like if I tighten them any more something is gonna break.

Very nice.

Dose Tim-bor and antifreeze work also ? Do how often should i been doing this on the wood around my house

Why are you fine sanding between tongue oil applications? Tongue oil after all sanding stages.

I would love to dee your setup

Thanks for this! I've about given up on a "nice" arbor press showing up locally (sounds like your case, going by previous comment), so will likely be ordering one of these before tariffs double the price. Hopefully I'll end up with a better specimen, but best to know ahead of time what I might be in for.

Need 1 How much?

How much?

Whose comes first?? Monarch lathe or toyokikai k.k. kohan lathe? They have similar or lets say common feature parts and function..hmmm🤔

Can you do video how to make the fan set up. I have an old health stone propane or natural gas stove and dosent have blower installed, no longer can get blower discontinued. But i think i can do what you did add switch fans and i may have to add power for fans because my stove has no power to it at all. But its cast iron once its hot its heats but i want to push air to heat more into main house also. Basically my back up heat if furnace goes out. Or if you want to put link to parts. I probably can figure out set up you did for moving air. Which was brilliant idea was probably way cheaper doing dyi blower. But that video would get tons of views for sure.

Clean work ! Dude is an engineer

damn cool bro... beautiful family

new subs here m a woodworker too.. but before i make this ill first grow my hair long... neways u need my Man Tony's LCSign. too good bro

Beautiful and very useful!

so i made it too :D just by using WoodPrix plans :)

could I use a 5/8 shaft with 5/8 flange bearing & sprocket?

Yes!!! Thanks for this Sam!

Nice job, I usually flip the head down to get the center of gravity lower but other than that I liked what you did!

That's pretty cool.

My suggestion is that if you have never done any internal grinding, the learning curve is steep and this is not the project to learn on. IMHO you would be much better off getting a B&S 4MT plug standard off of eBay and then turning a cast iron lap or a bronze lap and gaging it to a known good 4MT sleeve. Toolpost grinders are not the same as ID grinders, they have their place, this isn't one of them. My other suggestion is to find a qualified rebuilder that works with Monarchs on a regular basis and seek their advice.

The way I fixed a worn out drill press spindle was by using a hardend morsetaper tool shaft, of a tool I didn't needed anymore and some lapping compound, started with a corse one and moved to finer and finer compound. About 2 hours of lapping and it was back in useable condition.

I've restored the tailstock taper on my lathe. First I tried with a reamer like you, but even though mine did make chips, the result was not good at all. I ended up building a toolpost grinder specifically to do the job. I've used it since for other projects but the toolpost grinder really is the way to go in my opinion. You can see it in use in my SK30 tool holder fixture video

The sides of the reamer don't cut, it's just the chamfers of the end face that cut, that's why it's not cleaning up.

1) take the tailstock quill out, chuck it in the lathe, and indicate it true. 2) affix a grinding post and grinder to your cross slide, and set the angle of the cross slide to match the taper of the MT4 3) cover the ways with an oiled cloth 4) Slowly move the small grinding wheel in and out of the taper, as you run the lathe on it's slowest speed. 5) Check results, ensure the taper is correct, and all surfaces have been cleaned up. 6) Clean the ways thuroughly to remove any dost and debris from the grinding process.

You could remove the quill from the tailstock, set it up on the lathe carriage with the dividing head and use a grind stone mounted in the spindle of the lathe? It would knock off the high spots well enough to then use a shaped lap? Alternatively you could machine out the taper and install a bush that was soft enough to ream? I have repaired one in the past that had been taken to deep by doing this. However it's a very much last resort quick fix.

Isn't the your falure due to the fact that the tailstock is harder than your reamer. I was under the impression that people use a grinder for the tailestock and not a reamer. However, I highly enjoyed watching your professional process in the video. The air bearing sharpening process was extremely fun to watch.

Very nice. I want one. Super cool. Looks like some work went into that.

Great video, thanks! I may have missed it, but after cooking, what ratio of concentrate to water do you use to spray the wood? Also, after months, have you noticed signs of new activity?

You definitely have a great boil. I have a Brand new Dauntless made by Smokey lake it’s a continuous feed with a warming pan. So as I boil I can draw off as I boil. I also got a blower kit on it so I should be able to evaporate 14 to 15 gallons of sap. Looking forward using it. Better than my old boyah cooker. 5 gallons an hour.

Молодец 👍👍👍

Hi Samuel, excellent fun watching your adventures learning the ways of iron 👍🏻👍🏻 In this episode of your Monarch series, it finally dawned on me that your video clarity is very crisp indeed, please could you share what device/s you’re using for filming. It might just be a fine solution for my own video needs. All the best to you and yours

hey Brother how that kind of machine

Hi, I liked the sharpening approach and blade tension device! I have the same Rikon saw, where did you get the 0.0001" = 2000PSI? I wonder about the tension gauge on my saw... thanks for posting

Interesting. I wonder how many blades I've trashed in the last 2 years that I could have sharpened. :)

They are awesome. Labour of love but are functional, look great and hand made. Can't get better.

This video is so great thank you!

Do you have a link for the trays? Thanks

The ways are giving you a little and the bar gives you a little because of whip and preload on the bar.

i've been a manual machinist for 40 years and you obviously don't know what you are doing, {no offence intended} leave the tail stock tight but not too tight and adjust the tail stock by tightening one side as you loosen the other side watching the indicator as you do so, if it has a one thousandth taper you only move the tail stock by a half thousandth, first you need to make sure the bed is leveled to within a half thousandth both in X and Y directions, you have wear in the ways, and good luck with that old dinosaur

Thanks for sharing!

*_A hard wood spatula would be awesome._* 👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣

Also for a true way to do it would be between centers ( on both ends also a dead centers)

Very nice video. Good job.

Leveling the bed with a high precision machinist level is the main thing.

You need to make you test bar differently. Relieve the middle part by say .125" and leave the ends (about an inch) so it looks like a dumb bell. This makes it a lot faster as you don't have to cut the whole length on your test and it reduces any wear on the cutting tool that may occur on the long cut.

I do not have wood toaster tongs, but if i do- I will have these wood toaster tongs