Hi, Have you bled the brakes since you did this video? I’m having shocking problems with mine, been back to the people that repaired it, but the “fixed” return isn’t working either. Pulling my hair out. Where did you get your kit from? Thanks
@rogerhudson97326 күн бұрын
Octagonal wheel nuts look so much nicer than 'knock off/on' nuts, also they are more secure on a road car.
@brianwilson2457 күн бұрын
Washers!!!!?, I'd be inclined to get bushes that actually fitted
@markbrown434817 күн бұрын
IAN !!!! hello my old friend :)
@bodgitandleggitgarage18 күн бұрын
Nice job mate
@ianj366317 күн бұрын
Thanks 👍
@TonyA-tm9ol18 күн бұрын
Very useful and timely video..llI am also in the process of installing the same Kelvedon CV joints and lhaving trouble with tight holes in the diff and hub "ears" ; interesting to see you using a reamer: pls tell me what size you used. Thx.
@ianj366317 күн бұрын
Hi Tony, I used a 7/16 reamer. The first drive shaft I fitted I didnt ream the holes and as you saw in the video I struggled a bit. The second one I did ream the holes and managed to get the drive shaft in much easier and without having to compress the springs. Good luck with your install
@TonyA-tm9ol17 күн бұрын
@@ianj3663 thx..7/16 is the nominal stud diameter and is too tight on mine; I deformed the thread on one stud trying to bang it in, needed to withdraw (slide hammer!) and re thread the damaged stud; just found and bought a 29/64 reamer on ebay..Hope that will be OK.. thx for the idea...Tony
@TonyA-tm9ol4 күн бұрын
A Dremel and 29/64 reamer did the job: nice sliding fit of the studs into the ears; hub side first, then diff side. Didn't need to compress the spring..All done.. 😊
@olivernaylor429018 күн бұрын
2.25” springs make fitting the struts so much easier!
@ianj366317 күн бұрын
Yes I bet they are easier with adjustable seats. Did you do a conversion on the rear of your Elan?
@olivernaylor429017 күн бұрын
@@ianj3663 yeah, I did a video on it. Put konis in at the same time
@KevinMeeds18 күн бұрын
I installed CVDS from Elantrikbits this week. They were a doddle to fit and have transformed the way the car responds to the throttle. I also no longer have to worry about the doughnuts failing as I've fitted 3 sets in the last 3 years.
@ianj366318 күн бұрын
Yea, I’ve heard the donuts you get these days days are crap 😊
@steveporritt155018 күн бұрын
I have the Mick Miller CV joints on my +2, best £400 I ever spent on the car, it transformed the slow speed in traffic movement, no more kangarooing & power take up was instant, not having to wait for the donuts to load up.
@stephenlaw120218 күн бұрын
captive bolt for the suspension, two minutes with a welder, well done, looked like fun!!!!
@jefflavigne174719 күн бұрын
Interesting, but about that elephant in the room…. You forgot to mention there’s a cork gasket that goes between the head and the valve cover that’s about 3mm thick. That should account for any interference with the camshaft studs.
@ianj366317 күн бұрын
Think about it. If there is a 3mm gap between the head and cam cover a 3mm gasket wont be compressed. I my case the gap wasn't even all the way round so some part would be compressed and other parts wouldn't. I didn't want to rely on silicone sealant alone to get a seal
@mrnovalueinthemarket631523 күн бұрын
Never liked poly bushes on the elan. The fronts I even made different s/s tubes as they really don’t fit well. After buying a complete set many year s ago the only ones I used were the rear inners, the rest were terrible. Cheers Mark
@ianj366322 күн бұрын
I'm inclined to agree. These polybushes don't seem great. I'm concerned that there will wear over time with use and the suspension will become slopy I'm considering sticking with the standard metalastic bushing for the front.
@alunbrindle69429 күн бұрын
Seems a little agricultural on the way but seemed to end in the right place.
@ToonvanDriel-rq6mmАй бұрын
I turned 1mm off the inside faces of the chassis side bush top hats. As a result each bush sits 1 mm deeper in the trunnions, which gives a bit more rotation freedom. Turning the hub side bushes the other way around is a nice thought, didn’t think about that yet. I don’t like the idea of having to machine the hubs in order to mount the bushes as suggested by the bush supplier.
@ianj3663Ай бұрын
Interesting! I thought about machining the bushes but decided it would be too difficult to do accurately as the polyurethane is 'soft' and must be difficult to get a clean cut. I too didn't want to machine the uprights.
@ToonvanDriel-rq6mmАй бұрын
@@ianj3663 turning is very straightforward, you simply shouldn’t be shy and make a decent cut with a sharp chisel
@user-oj4xh8cg2lАй бұрын
The problem with generic pullers of the operating principle you made is that the hubs being cast of steel rather than iron, they can easily distort when pulled (or banged) unevenly on the outside (one would need to be quite cautious to apply pressure very gradually all around). Then the wheel contact patch not being flat the wheel nut may/will tend to undo under use. Many hubs have been damaged over the years and that was becoming an issue, till hubs copies were manufactured again alleviating the increasing scarcity of good hubs. The hub puller shown at the beginning (which is the one recommended in the Lotus manual) is the safest, most efficient way to remove rear hub (you may achieve that with a sacrifical nut, needs heat, bang on the pressure point, and repeat, with some luck), as the pulling effort is coaxial and very close to the mating surfaces. They're not that rare or expensive anymore, and could be lent by a fellow enthusiast I'm sure.
@ianj3663Ай бұрын
Thanks for you thoughts. The aim of my puller design was to ensure an even pressure on the flange of the hub. The first hub I pulled off i did use some heat. The second one I didn't and it came off really quite easily.
@Andrew-vx2lsАй бұрын
Never an easy task and this is a sensitive way to put in the bushes without damaging the wishbone. Having just checked my Elan WSM (not +2), The Elan WSM says "Note that the bolts are fitted with their heads towards each other (i.e. from the inner faces)." Perhaps double check this point for the +2?
@ianj3663Ай бұрын
Thanks for that. I'll check
@georgekerr265Ай бұрын
@@ianj3663 Ian, there is no issue with fitting the bolts either way on a plus 2 because there is plenty clearance between the suspension mounts and the body shell. On the baby Elan the bolt heads must face one another or you will have to cut off the bolt heads to remove them. Whoever assembled my suspension before the body shell was fitted didn’t do this and I’ll have to cut the heads off the bolts on mine.
@sidloose9465Ай бұрын
Just get a press and do the job properly for christ's sake!
@ianj3663Ай бұрын
How big a press should I get for christ's sake?
@georgekerr265Ай бұрын
@@ianj3663Some folk just can’t help themselves Ian. 🙄
@sidloose9465Ай бұрын
@@ianj3663 I managed to pick up a 10 ton press off ebay for £100 a while ago and was able to do all of my bushes and found it invaluable for many other tasks. Admittedly, they seem a bit more expensive now but make the job a real pleasure!
@olivernaylor4290Ай бұрын
I was watching, and thanks for the shout out 💪🏼👍🏻
@ianj3663Ай бұрын
No problem 👍
@steveporritt1550Ай бұрын
Interesting! I always assumed polybushes were just a stiffer (and more garish colour) of ordinary bushes but it appears they operate more like a bearing? Are they stiffer, I wouldn't think so from the video? The thought of having to regrease would put me off & I thing I'll replace mine with standard bushes, assuming they are as good as the originals. One tip I would give is give everything a good power-wash first, having dust drop in your eyes whilst under the car is one of my biggest gripes & wearing goggles as an alternative is a pain, they either fog up or you knock them & as you know there is not much space to work on an Elan.
@ianj366317 күн бұрын
Yes they act like bearings. The 'stiffness' question is interesting. The polybushes put up little rotational resistance. They do provide sum by the friction between the flanged ends and suspension components. The original metalstic bushes on the other hand are captive and don't rotate. The rubber in the bush is distorted by twisting as the suspension components move. Rubber acts like a rising rate spring ie it get stiffer the more its compressed. Therefore I assume that polybushes are less 'stiff' than the original set-up.
@gemanscombe4985Ай бұрын
I believe your new upper "Lotocone" mounts are the same replacement part that I received. They are not the same as the originals that were on my S2. The lower concave surface that left marks on the spring seat dome is smaller diameter and thus sits higher, raising the bolt flanges 13mm above where the originals' were. It appears your original mount was on the lower center of the video screen. If it has the larger concave bell that sits lower on the dome, your rear ride height will now be 13mm higher than before. If you are using re-rated springs, your resulting ride height will be part of our adventures in Lotus world. The raised seating position of the new mount also creates a larger space between upper spring seat and Lotocone flanges, obviating the need for the thin-headed bolts. You can now use a crow's foot wrench (perhaps thinned a bit) on regular headed bolts which would have fouled the spring seat before. Folks using small 2 1/4" diameter springs can use ordinary socket wrenches. The previous procedure was to install the Lotocone on the frame w/the bolts, slightly compress the springs with ratcheting tie-down straps, arrange all components onto the strut, engage the strut to the control arm with the thru-bolts, then raise the arm + strut with a floor/trolley jack. Fun! There are some assembly moves that aren't relevant if you use the new mounts as-is, pre-assemble as modern struts are, and accept the altered ride height. I found the threads on my strut rods protruded insufficiently and had to machine the upper end of the mount's inner steel sleeve. It was just possible to gain full thread engagement that way without cutting into the mount's rubber. Your strut rod appears to have a sufficiently longer threaded section. My very reputable US supplier told me they haven't noticed or heard of any fitting problems and used them on their S1. I've had a new spare mount and the original on the spring seats, side-by-side. They are different. I did find one archived mention of this on the Elan forum we all enjoy and he machined, too. I also used a less-than-simple way to restore previous ride height. I'll find out if it was worth the effort sometime soon, I hope. Keep up the good work. It's both informative and inspiring! "rohanhodges" and "olivernaylor" are well-known enthusiasts and highly respected contributors. Thank you, to all.
@ianj366317 күн бұрын
Thanks for the insight and glad you like the videos.
@olivernaylor4290Ай бұрын
Interested to see what ride height you get with those springs. New ones seem to ride very high
@ianj36639 күн бұрын
Hi Oliver, I'm looking for sum advise on tyre choice. The Elan is almost on the road and I need to start thinking about some new boots. Like you I do intend to do track days so though you may be able to give me an insight into the tyres you've used and would recommend? Ian
@olivernaylor42908 күн бұрын
@@ianj3663 tough one, you can spend a lot on modern ‘period’ Michelins or Pirelli’s. I hear they are very good. The only thing I can say for sure is avoid rainsports. They are too soft and you lose all the ‘directness’ of an elan. I run Falken sinceras. They’re cheap, don’t have bags of grip but have great feel
@rohanhodges6135Ай бұрын
I also prefer to reuse the orginal round strut securing nut rather than the hexagonal securing nut
@rohanhodges6135Ай бұрын
The alloy spacer is supposed to be crimped onto the shock tube to stop it rattling around. As far as I am aware the spacer plastic washer is supposed to go on top to protect the aeon rubber spring. This alloy spacer was a Lotus afterthought on later +2 so not a well documented assembly anywhere.
@jleeroy2697Ай бұрын
Phew that’s why I haven’t got them as not a late +2 thanks
@ianj366317 күн бұрын
Thanks Rohan, Yea I think I prefer the original arrangement too but the new SPAX damper inserts come with a hex nut inboard of the outer tube and there is no recesses to crimp the spacer to.
@mrnovalueinthemarket63152 ай бұрын
Hi, Make sure that the inner front bolt on the wishbones goes in thread first from the rear, the opposite of what you have in the video. Certainly in the little elan this bolt cannot be removed by pulling it forward. Cheers Mark
@ianj36632 ай бұрын
Hi Mark, Thanks for the advice. I'll check this out Ian
@alcampbell58313 ай бұрын
Ingenious. Well done that man!
@ianj36633 ай бұрын
Thx Al
@georgekerr2653 ай бұрын
Ian, I tried to reply to you with a couple of photos showing the washers in place that I was taking about but was unable to attach them. 🙁
@ianj36633 ай бұрын
Hi George, How about trying to send them by email. My email address is [email protected]
@stephenlaw12023 ай бұрын
bend ya back mate!! :)
@ianj36633 ай бұрын
Too old!
@stephenlaw12023 ай бұрын
plod on mate, making the rest of us envious/ dreading, you're doing a great job
@ianj36633 ай бұрын
Who knows i might plod on to the end and get it finished.
@olivernaylor42903 ай бұрын
Are those diff bars are the correct side? Mine point level, not down if that makes sense.
@ianj36633 ай бұрын
Hi Oliver, Yes I think they are on the right side. The pics you've seen where before I finally tightened up the top diff mounts. This pulled the whole diff up quite a bit. I will check however. Ian PS I like you videos keep them coming!
@olivernaylor42903 ай бұрын
@@ianj3663 thanks Ian!
@georgekerr2653 ай бұрын
Hi Ian, I fair enjoyed your video and thank you for taking the time to make it. I do have one comment on the assembly of the diff tie bars, there should be another two dished washers per side that go between the polly bushes and the diff housing. When I purchased the bush kit for my Elan the the steel dished washers came in the kit. 👍🏻
@ianj36633 ай бұрын
Intresting, I didnt get any washers with the bushes. Ill check it out.
@walterrappa51973 ай бұрын
Thanks for another great video!
@ianj36633 ай бұрын
Glad you enjoyed it!
@steveporritt15503 ай бұрын
I have a 1968 +2, interesting that you have a cut out in front of the tank. I’m fairly certain that I have a fibreglass firewall, I’ll check when I have time. Does anyone else have an early car (ie not +2S) & if so do you have the cutout? I assume you are going to replace the nylock nuts once you have the car back on the ground?
@JohnWatkins08023 ай бұрын
When I did this on my Europa Special I just matched the head ports & cast iron manifold to the gaskets, so you also need to check the gaskets are also not impeding the exhaust flow.
@philipkrzeminski43553 ай бұрын
Never port to gaskets. Gaskets often are oversized to allow room for improper alignment and movement for those who just sparingly place them on . There made just to seal. They do no flow research.. Always port match. This is exactly what this gentlemen is doing correctly.
@kevinrenville40303 ай бұрын
That is utterly fantastic. Does it work well?
@ianj36633 ай бұрын
Hi Kevin, Yes it does work well. I do need to change the plastic on top quite regularly as it clouds over particularly if it gets hit by the grit when blasting large pieces. I have made some improvements which I might put it a video.
@ianj36633 ай бұрын
Hi Kevin, I've up loaded a video of some upgrades I made. Hope you find it useful Ian
@arlettepengilly76563 ай бұрын
Superb video, clear, concise and honest! Very well done. Rex is looking forward to seeing the finished project! 3:58
@ianj36633 ай бұрын
Glad you enjoyed it! When its finished we'll bring it round to meet George
@seanchapman57313 ай бұрын
Great video. I just removed one of my hubs using the little insert and three eared spinner. Tightened it up then waited 10 mins and it was loose - so I had it easy this time.
@ianj36633 ай бұрын
Sounds like you were lucky!
@keesstam9093 ай бұрын
allways poor oil in the tube where the shock absorber goos in (for cooling, air does not conduct heat, caused by the shock absorber
@ianj36633 ай бұрын
The thermal conductivity of oil is about 0.13wm/k that of air is about 1.04wm/k . So oil would perform worse. Nearly 10 times worse but like your thinking process
@MartinE633 ай бұрын
@@ianj3663 Thermal conductivity Air 0.02 W/mK Oil 0.15 W/mK Oil has 7.5 times better conductivity than air
@ianj36633 ай бұрын
You're right! I was confusing the thermal capacity of air with thermal conductivity. Sorry
@TonyA-tm9ol3 ай бұрын
Very clear..thank you..
@ianj36633 ай бұрын
You’re welcome 😊
@walterrappa51973 ай бұрын
Another Great video!
@ianj36633 ай бұрын
Glad you enjoyed it!
@stephenlaw12023 ай бұрын
looking good mate
@ianj36633 ай бұрын
Thanks 👍
@georgekerr2653 ай бұрын
Great wee video! 👍🏻
@ianj36633 ай бұрын
Glad you enjoyed it
@ptibbitts-nu9jr3 ай бұрын
Oh dear, I was shouting at you to reverse one of the Irvine clamps, so you could get your full hand round each pair of grips without trying to squeeze with just you fingers - frustration!!!!!!
@ianj36633 ай бұрын
Yes you are probably right.....the benefit of hind sight!
@frankhoward76454 ай бұрын
0:59. Kind of a dumb question, but what's wrong with the thermostat clamp? 1:23. Have you considered replacing the plastic fuel line with metal? I used brake pipe with a piece of rubber fuel line just before the pump as it moves relative to the fuel line. 4:54. I've never replaced mine, but if you're going to replace the rubber brake lines, have you considered upgrading to braided brake lines? I understand that because they minimize any expansion under pressure, the brakes become rock hard which is a good thing. As usual, another quality video by Ian!
@steveporritt15504 ай бұрын
If you were only replacing the seal you could have marked the pinion nut & the flange & then worked out from the mark on the old nut how far from the thread start on the new nut you needed to make a mark. Or alternatively used thread locker on the old nut & put it back so the marks lined up. That of course assumes the preload was correct before hand! I’m enjoying this series, I have a 1968 +2 & will at some point have to replace the seals (currently not leaking). I also have the CV conversion from Mick Miller, which was the best money I have spent on the Elan. I’m also really enjoying your tooling to remove bearings etc & to break the taper. It seems a shame that the maker of the preload tool didn’t open up the centre, so that you didn’t have to take it off to tighten the pinion nut. One question on the rear handbrakes, the two little tabs that bolt on are they supposed to be sprung to keep the pads off of the discs, mine had no spring in them?
@georgekerr265Ай бұрын
There should be a compression spring slid over the handbrake adjusting rod to keep the handbrake pad levers from exerting any pressure on the disk when the handbrake is released.
@stephenlaw12024 ай бұрын
rather than buying the preloaderr, couldn't you have used a bolt through the hole and the digital scale? cheaper and just as effective?
@robertwalker96384 ай бұрын
There is another breather out that will work with either an L block, as shown, or.an M block.
@robertwalker96384 ай бұрын
Solved my cam cover leaking by simply gluing 4 sheets of sandpaper to a flat surface. Then moving the cover over the sandpaper in a figure eight motion until the cover was completely flat. Solved the leakingm completely.
@ianj36634 ай бұрын
Sounds like a good simple solution for your issue. It wouldn't have worked for me as the cover was being held off the head buy the studs that were too long.
@markswift47794 ай бұрын
Excellent! My pins are seized but I will give them a tap then pull. Sadly my pistons are also seized.
@ianj36634 ай бұрын
Hi Mark, Seized pistons..... see my video Brakes Part 1. I though mine were seized but soaking them in Blaster and then making up a special tool worked for me.
@lightweightiseverything50684 ай бұрын
Great job! I was worried I might not be able to take my diff apart to replace bearings and seals, but now that I’ve watched you do it, I think I can handle it. Thank you!
@ianj36634 ай бұрын
Great to hear!
@johanwintzell92924 ай бұрын
Thanhs for nice videos! A tips: Always heat up the housing and bearings pop out easy. This way you will not loose any material where bearings are seated.
@ianj36634 ай бұрын
Thanks for the info!
@stephenlaw12024 ай бұрын
change them, new bearings are always better than 30 year old ones!!!!
@ianj36634 ай бұрын
Yeah, you're right I'll probably do that before I put the diff back in the car.