@@Th3Squizard thanks for watching! I would definitely do it again with either supercharger (i.e. even if the SC14 did not exist) but to be frank, you're not going to be successful running regular fuel. So that adds a lot of cost unless you want to avoid using the blower for a full tank of regular (a nice option with the SC14). More than happy to help you with tuning, etc. If you want to reach out - [email protected] I think the total cost will vary depending on your fabrication skills. I'm no expert fabricator but have had some practice cutting metal, tapping threads, have lots of spare bolts, etc. which is a hidden cost to projects like this. I think $1k is a good overall budget tho.

​@@avsti1k is WAY better than I thought! Another question, How important are the gauges to watch after things are all said and done? Id like to keep my forester "looking stock" at a glance IE the gauges will only be visible in "rocket mode"

@Th3Squizard all of the important sensors are already built into the car. The safest way to log that I've found is with subaruEdit, which can record knock corrections, but any obd scanner will give you 90% of what you're looking for, such as engine RPM, boost pressure, ignition timing, MAF rate, fuel trims, and AFR. Enough to safely tune the car. You just want to be careful with ignition timing and reduce it a bunch unless you can data log the knock as well.

@@TheTruth-l8z this solution is incredibly universal. But it's a 2015 Subaru Forester.

@@bratboy5203 tons of kits on Amazon, AliExpress, and eBay. Most are model specific, but some universal ones (without spoke cutouts) exist too.

@@iulian997 8.5Ω at 110V = 12.9A and 1.43kW 😂 Your heating element will either vaporize or melt your steering wheel. A clock spring stands no chance. To heat the same element with a similar 60W, you'd be looking at 22.5V (2.8A, 8.5Ω). Unfortunately 2.8A is still way too much current for your clock spring's thin wiring. That's why for this project I went with a very high resistance, very high voltage, and very low current solution.

@@avsti i bought an original heated steering wheel, but i'll put it on older car. I tested with 12V for 4-5min but it's a bit hot. Probably if stay ON too long it will burn at some point.. What solution i can adopt? Maybe an intermitent relay, 1min ON-1min OFF, is a good solution?

@@iulian997 if it actually works with 12V and gets hot, you're probably dealing with something that's meant to be wired directly to a 12V outlet. You could install a switch to turn it on/off once it warms or cools. The main downside is that a 12V heater will consume too much current to pass through the steering wheel clockspring so you'll have an external wire (perhaps similar to a telephone cord) wrapped around your steering column. Not the end of the world.

The build evolved quite a bit since this video. But besides the supercharger itself and supercharger mounting, you'd need: 1. A generic 2.5" front mount intercooler and couplers and hose clamps to keep intake air temp down 2. A bypass valve (so air can boost can escape when you let off the throttle) 3. 3/8" hose for the crankcase breather and 1" hose for the bypass valve 4. A belt of the right length (will be platform specific) 5. A 2.5" cone air filter 6. MAF sensor housing + extension 7. A way to tune everything (I used a Tactrix cable + EcuFlash) but it's also CRUCIAL that you find a definition file for your ECU. Or you could pay for SubaruEdit which may come with definitions. Or pay for a pro tune like from XRT. 8. A higher range MAP sensor I'm pretty confident you could put it all together for <$1000 USD, though by switching from the M65 to the SC14 (later in this video series), I probably exceed that.

@@G-sepp no, I went the supercharger route because it was much much cheaper than a turbo kit, particularly because you can keep the stock exhaust system.

@@avsti how many psi of boost max you think a fb25 can hold with stock internals? because I have a turbo kit but I’m scared to blow the engine,thanks for answering 🤙🏼

@@G-sepp well, it can definitely hold 6psi. Honestly I don't see a problem with more (e.g. 10psi) - the main challenge you'll have is supplying enough fuel (will need careful tuning) and pulling back the ignition timing.

@@avsti thank you bro!!💯

235 front / 285 rear RE-71RS tires. The car has been on Ohlins R&T coilovers since before the swap, and they work well! Happy to answer more questions.

@@andrewward3286 sure thing, but what are you looking to accomplish?

Yep, it is! I've seen some Crosstrek guys have success with CVTs + supercharging btw.

eBay - look for gauges intended for air suspension setups

@@avsti Sweet, thanks!

Amazon

Lufi X1 OBDII

I don't really think it's worth paying someone to do this unless you really want to commit to maintaining it yourself, running premium gas, and generally putting in effort to further improve upon the idea. I personally would have baked at the cost I've invested into this if it were presented to me all at once before I started the project. Of course, with enough money and/or time you can make anything happen!

With 93, I think 40-50hp. With 87 octane fuel, not a ton. Maybe 20-30?

@@avsti also do you think you gained good low end torque with this set up? I off road mine and I would like a hit more torque so I’m considering supercharging it.

@@joseacevedo5354 yeah definitely. Especially if you don't pull out any timing and run 93 octane

Awesome all day (though it was 40°F out). I do have an Accusump but since building the car it's never engaged besides for pre-oiling the engine (and I'd know as engagement would trigger a super bright red LED between the left two aftermarket gauges). Peak oil temp around 215°F and you can glance at the oil pressure needle throughout the lap. I'm seeing a constant ~55psi leaving the oil pump and ~3 bar (~43psi) at the cam. In a perfect world I'd like slightly higher oil pressures but that would require a higher flow pump and risk oil drain-back issues. Going to leave it alone for now. Running a Canton baffled front sump pan common with these swaps.

Transmission is the same. Still a Porsche G97.01 transaxle. Weight distribution remained the same. Handling, I'd argue, feels similar under braking and cornering, however the increased torque makes a big difference in corner exit. I would never have installed a limited slip diff with the factory engine (which rarely overwhelms the rear mechanical grip) but it feels necessary with this one.

Because the original engine was a flawed design which blew up and costs $$$$$ to replace. Also it's faster now. 😂

@@avsti bruh

This is a very good point haha.

Yeah in one of the vids I experimented with plugging the inlet to listen for a noise difference. Ultimately decided against doing so.

Ooh interesting. A bit beyond my familiarity with electronics. I'll install one, but am now musing as to how that damage hasn't already occurred. I wonder if my use of a relay to connect/disconnect power has something to do with it.

​@@avstiit could be that it has one built in inside the conector. The one I have has a smaller ac compressor pulley and it doesn't have a diode as it was supposed to have one on the vehicle side connector

Awesome! An M62 will be really happy with this motor, hopefully you find a good sized pulley for it.

@avsti Thanks! Yeah, I'm trying to keep my eyes out for one. It still has the electric clutch... been really inspired by your build to try and have a boosted and NA setup running

@@Gary-sf6bt what's the stock pulley diameter? If it's 100mm, that will push a bit less air than my M65 did; perhaps only a small bump up to ~180bhp.

@avsti Off the top of my head I wanna say 93.5mm maybe a bit more. Definitely won't be push that much, but would like to get thr setup together, get the tune down and go up from there. Would love a clutched 76mm. Goal would eventually be maybe 200 to the wheel

It worked well! One of the mating surfaces is the pulley, so when I went to a smaller pulley I gave up on the original clutch, basically.

Sorry meant this comment for the previous video. I mean when was the clutch engaged on the Previa? Just at high throttle via computer?

@@andynauta that's a good question. Not really sure! I assume, for the sake of efficiency, that it could have been switched on and off as needed.

I'll take a look. I have tried watching real time knock without luck, but realtime timing should be doable.

I could be interested

@@G-sepp m.facebook.com/marketplace/item/289606490833053/

me

Ah it's been sold, sorry folks!

@@avsti are you willing to share info for diy?

Something from AliExpress. And yes it could be, but that's pre oil filter, so most of the oil would flow back into the pan and not into the engine prior to startup.

@@avsti ok that sucks. Would have made for an easy connection in my car. I'll have to figure out something else or just go with a cooler alone

I didn't mean to totally dishearten you, mostly defending my choices. Accusump into a sandwich plate is still way better than no accusump. Plus, some sandwich plates have connections post filter!

@@avsti no problem. I just want to do it the right way that's the least hassle. I've seen diagrams teeing the accumulator into the line returning from the cooler and using a check valve. I would think the thermostat will prevent preoiling before start up because the oil is cold

Typically, oil thermostats don't block flow from a cooler so much as divert oil going towards the cooler down a bypass. It could still work.

Yep!

It would show the same :)