Bend the end of the spring up with the torch. Put a vise grip on the bent up part, and spin her off. Also a strap wrench to spin her back on the plug

Stick with the MetaboHPT's (I still have one branded as Hitachi 🤣) you can buy a recharge regulator for $40-70, (you do need a different lower pressure one for the 18ga guns) it just uses 110psi of regular compressed air... my 1st Hitachi branded 18v framing nailer is STILL working without being recharged! However I did need to recharge the 15ga and 18ga gen 1 models after several years of use... No broken/worn out parts other than chipping the nose on one of the framing guns from a long fall down to concrete lol. I still like dewalt for cordless finish nailers, just because of ergonomics/size/weight, but air piston styles like MetaboHPT(Hitachi) and Milwaukee etc. are really required if you use lots of hardwoods and full length nails (think staircases etc) that's the only place where dewalt nailers sometimes struggle with power... Just NEVER buy a Dewalt 20v framing nailer! Of ANY generation 😒 I haven't been impressed with Milwaukees cordless nailers... Not lighter or smaller enough and costs more than the MetaboHPT's... It's worth the headache of having another battery system and charger just for the nailers in my opinion... The MetaboHPTs have amazing battery life and the framing guns run fine off of a tiny little 3 AH battery (now they come with a 4 AH) Also they finally released a 2 stick magazine for the framing nailers that fit basically every older version... MetaboHPT 18v framing and dewalt 20v finish/brad/stapler is usually my go to, but keep the MetaboHPT/Hitachi finish and brad guns in case of hardwood/sandwiched steel flashing etc. where the dewalt may sometimes struggle 👍

Get a good gas chainsaw period. After batteries this thing costs close to $600 and isnt even close to as capable, durable, or reliable as a gas chainsaw will be. Milwaukee is great for tools that should be battery operated or electric, but a chainsaw should be gas imo. A good gas chainsaw will last a long time and might become your favorite tool.

drop a piece of tube/shaft down the spring it wont flop over on ya

Thanks! This happened to my m18 15 gauge finish nailer.

I’ve had that tool fail on the loop even if I use the tool, I will still tap it with a hammer. I know when I do it with the hammer it’s not gonna come loose. I have a problem, trusting the tool

I’ve had that tool fail on the loop even if I use the tool, I will still tap it with a hammer. I know when I do it with the hammer it’s not gonna come loose. I have a problem, trusting the tool

Evan, block it with a winding bar

Oh man. I didn't get the notification until it was over

Do you think new garage door openers will come out this year?

I’m worried about the tariffs and shipping cost

Yes, I can hear you. Good morning from Concord, California.

Did away with the cable tensioner sensor and now my works perfectly

Dave had mentioned I look into 2 inch doors. At just over $200 more it seems like a no-brainer. But I will wait for any feedback. Model #9200 3­layer - 2" Intellicore® Insul. R­Value 18. $3,591 Model #9130 3layer - 1 3/8" Intellicore® Insulation R­Value 12.9 $3,379

I would definitely go with the Clopay 9130.

I rate my doors like this. Haas, midland, northcentral, clopay/ideal, amarr then last and for sure least farmer dalton

We don't really deal with either brand but the clopay is definitely the better deal between the 2

I would go with the Clopay 9130 it has a polyurethane. Something to remember on the polyurethane door, the urethane inside will bond the two panels together, making it more rigid. I believe the 1 3/8 is smoother through the radius. Good luck on your decision merry Christmas and happy new year.

I would go with the Clopay 9130 it has a polyurethane. Something to remember on the polyurethane door, the urethane inside will bond the two panels together, making it more rigid. I believe the 1 3/8 is smoother through the radius. Good luck on your decision merry Christmas and happy new year.

The Clopay is a way better built door and will have a lifetime paint warranty also. The Wayne dalton paint fades much quicker and if you ever damage a section, the replacements won’t match. At those prices, Dave the Friend either is giving him the hook up or he doesn’t know his numbers because that’s way too low. I would jump on that deal. I would estimate it at $6,000

It honestly feels like playing slots at a casino. The payoff doesn’t match the pay up..

Evan what is your utube channel’s name?

We have 2 of these. And they're amazing for small/medium framing jobs.

I ran mine over with a tractor sheared the handle lower support bolt and bent the handle. Bent it back and just run it with the handle only attached at the top. Hasn't had a problem with it for 3 years now. Maybe you just need to run it over?🚜😃

30+ years as a skilled tradesmen in the field the only tools that have never left my hanging are OLD Milwaukee tools and Hilti.

Landscape mode is your friend for KZbin videos.

My son and i both have one and we also have a back up just in case which is still in the box and its been there three seasons ago and we still haven't had to touch it. I burn more than 20 face cord between heating my house my pole barn and our cabin in the woods. And we've yet to have a single problem other than an oil issue that i fixed. I recommend this saw

Deadass 😂 and he's Dippin at like 2:30

The FTC fined them 7.2 million for selling fraudulent leads. They have a class action lawsuit against them from contractors. They have a class action lawsuit from people who are getting bombarded with advertising despite having opted out. And their stock has dropped 89%. 35% in the past year.

Have you ever worked on a garage door that had a man door built in? Also, I’ve seen an 18 x 14 steel back door two ATS motors. How does that work?

Lol

Not worth the money especially since those are amarr doors with pinch guard lol. High lift conversion, maybe. But like I said especially since they're amarr doors might as well get all new when you're at it.

You are correct about the sensor placement with the sending eye on the sunny side. I've always used wire nuts, it seems like the gel connectors could break apart easily but I could be wrong. It's interesting that shorting the sensor wires is what killed the board, also good to know it can happen with liftmaster after reading the other comments lol

Ho Ho Ho hell No 🎅🏼

"Sometimes free costs too much"

Ask him if he has his mechanic upgrade his ford ranger to be a 8ft bed and a v8 because you found that he really needs a f350. That would require panels, get the right height?? Something would be off, then track extentions top and bottom, then the track for the chain needs extending, and the chain itself. Oh and then we need to upgrade the springs, and after that his little 1/2 hp motor would either burn out or not lift the door. Get all that done and he will have seen the advertisement for the royobi battery backup and want you to add that to the operator. LOL😅 and will complaining the whole time about how much the labor is costing him

That's not a walk way from job more like run away as fast as you can

Yep going to cost more im parts and labor then to just get new doors

People unfortunately don’t have the faintest idea how much would have to change to do that. It’s like trying to teach a monkey calculus. It just ain’t gonna happen! You will spend all day thinking about it and mulling it over just to make sure it works. Then the amount of stripped track bolts, the brackets, making sure the new springs work just right… all of the crap…. My recommendation: write up two/three options. 1. Repair/engineered solution (really high price - much more than new doors) 2. New doors (insulated/non-insualted) and openers

He got the garage for 300 and will wanna pay beer money for all the work. I’d run from this one

I’d tell them since they’re redoing the framing to re do the opening and move the whole door assembly down if they really want to keep it

Yes, Dave, I agree, I wouldn’t touch it. This customer wants you to do all the work and for them to get a great deal. Those are the jobs you lose money on

Two new doors and operators and you still be money ahead. And buy the sound of the guy I would walk. (Kinda sounds like the garage door school guy)

Now that I'm further along in the video to where you say Liftmaster is robust and crossing the PE wires is ok....I have to ask, Are you sure? I have firsthand seen many of the techs I worked with do just that and the Logic board has never come back.

Also don't staple your PE wires next to any high voltage wires. It can occasionally trigger the operator to start on its own, I know from experience following behind less qualified technicians.

Cross PE wires on a commercial liftmaster while the power is on it destroys the Logic Board immediately. Genie must have some sort of circuit protection built in because it doesn't seem to bother the circuit board. But yeah, turn the power off before you mess with wiring unless you are troubleshooting inside the operator. I have ruined a new Liftmaster Logic board by doing this. Call Liftmaster and act like you did nothing wrong. Get it replaced under warranty enough times maybe they will build a better board. Doubtful. I have worked on so many liftmaster problems over the last 20 years it would blow your mind. Tech support always blames it on "incoming power issue" LMAO

How do you program a new remote?

The sending sensor should be where the sun shines. The receiving sensor should be where the sun does not shine nice video

You needed Tonys lift🤣 the endings going to scare Evan.

I’m first to comment. What is my prize 🎉 Good luck out there.