@@Sam-f1k8e awesome!

@@u.e.u.e. great questions. I can’t remember the mileage at the time of this video but it was in the hundred thousand mile range I think. This test was done 3 years ago so we had it a long time after the test with many miles driven. I used it as a daily driver and drove it every weekend including pulling a trailer with it believe it or not. My daughter graduated college and accepted a job in Texas. She was driving a 1998 Explorer and wanted something more reliable and with better MPG so she took the Fiesta to Texas. She drove it to Texas and used it as a daily driver working 7 days a week with no issues. After making some big money, she traded it in last year and bought another truck. No it didn’t need any spark plugs or anything after the lacquer thinner. It ran great all the way up until she traded it, it is probably still running great today. Not sure of the current mileage.

@@TheStanleyWay I'm thinking about pouring 2.5 l (or 85 fl oz) of thinner into the tank of my Toyota with 77,000 km (48,000 mi) as a preventative as I have lots of idle time (personal circumstances). I also saw 1 of your 3 videos with the O-rings. I think if I mix the thinner with gasoline less than 1:10 I'm on the safe side. 😉 I'm very much into reading MSDSs. 😂🤭 So I know the content of Klear Strip Lacquer Thinner, Cataclean and could find a cheap German equivalent with a more or less similar composition. 2.5 l (85 fl oz) € 14.99 or $ 16.73. 😉

@@u.e.u.e. oh yes it is safe. After my videos I have had multiple friends try it with no issues. I’ve done it on two of my personal cars plus the o-ring tests. One of my friends tried it on a 400,000+ Corolla with no issues and his check engine light went out.

@@u.e.u.e. you are welcome!

@@druzeroseven I have never used lacquer thinner to fix anything like that but I know people that have. A friend of mine was getting the P0420 and he had black smoke out of the tailpipe with a rich fuel smell. He used lacquer thinner along with a highway trip. His car no longer smokes, the code went away, and no more fuel smell. He has a Corolla with over 400,000 miles, it’s worth a shot.

@@TheStanleyWay I ordered cataclean and if this doesn't work I'll go get myself a lacquer thinner.I also have a foul smell of petrol as soon as I park from a drive

@@stansumrall5582 I can’t give you any exact gas mileage numbers because it was so long ago but no the mileage didn’t improve. This car was always pretty good on gas.

@@javiermoralesgonzalez5604 I can’t be sure without looking at it but if you don’t have any shuddering or shaking it could be your TCM (transmission control module). This generation Fiesta has a lot of TCM problems. Make sure your battery, positive wires and grounds are all good. If the TCM isn’t getting the proper voltage and amps it will not work properly.

@@TheThomasmeier you are welcome.

@@mkd9251 my first question is does the car feel different in any way all of the sudden? Is it hard to brake or steer? Does anything, besides the lights, seem out of the ordinary? If not, how old is your battery? Have your battery checked even if it is new. Bad car batteries can cause many weird symptoms in modern computer operated cars. If your battery is 3 years old or older you may want to replace that first. Have your battery and alternator checked at the same time. A good auto parts store will do this for free. If the battery or alternator aren’t the problem then it could be one bad sensor kicking all of the lights on and sending multiple failure codes. This can be very difficult to troubleshoot in person and would be impossible over comments. If you have the money and know a good mechanic then have it checked out. If you are short in funds then use common sense and make your own decision on whether the car is safe to drive or not. When you have an ABS light on, it just means the computer has detected an ABS issue and has turned the antilock capabilities of the car off. So now you have a car without ABS, meaning if you jam the brakes you will lock up your tires and loose steering control as the car skids. If the car brakes and steers ok and you feel safe driving without ABS then go for it. Make sure to have your brake system inspected to ensure that your brake fluid is topped off and there are no major problems. If the inspection is good and you don’t want to fix it then drive it until you are able to have it fixed.

@@alnatural100mejor2 thank you!

@@marka.2715 it doesn’t appear to add any drop. I measured the stock one and center mast of the track bar is about 5”. The RC track bar installed is about 5 1/4”. They are within 1/4” of each other so I would say no drop. The difference could be caused by the completely different mount point.

@@TheStanleyWay Ok. Thanks for the response. That's what I measured on my stock bracket from bottom of frame to center of tie rod is about 5 inches. I just added some more lift so now my drag link is in a bind. I am using a ZJ pitman arm to drop it an inch. I need to drop the track bar an inch to match. I may go with IRO since they say theirs drops it 3/4" from stock. Their stuff is on sale for the weekend so it might be a good time to pull the trigger.

@@robertl9653 in your case yes. You can use the wires that are already installed because they are thicker than your new garage door wires. The lower the gauge size number the bigger the wire. You will have no problems doing this.

@@u.e.u.e. thanks!

@@cqsaunier awesome! I’m glad the video is helpful.

@@troymcdonald they are still in there and lasting quite well. They have been through years of abuse from teenagers. The arms are fine to rest your arms on but we did remove the sides on the chair back. For a really small person the backs will be ok but they pushed into my shoulders and was uncomfortable. After removing those there hasn’t been any issues.

@@TheStanleyWaythanks. My biggest concern is that piping on the arms versus a one piece smooth arm, that’s why I asked. Looks like if you rest your arm, it would feel funny unless you set your arm exactly in between the piping. Am I seeing it wrong and it’s a smoother one piece arm? Thanks

@troymcdonald I just got home so I went up there and looked and the piping is actually below the padding so your arm doesn’t touch the piping unless you are on the edge. I did ask everyone in the family that has been here and they all say they never noticed an issue with the arms. I will post a pic on a post here on KZbin for you to look at. YT won’t let us post pictures on comments.

@@Freeless1 you are welcome.

@@alfreddoumtaz215 my Jeep is still good. I have had no issues so far as a daily driver light wheeler and no death wobble.

@@TheStanleyWay I told them I have 2 inchs mopar lift plus 2 inches leveler kit. Getting all prety high 21.5 inches under my running board. Caster 5.2 degree all I was missing was this track bar. They said a lot of bad report once inverstigate 90% of the time is bad set up and installation or wrong geometry. I am 1 1/2 inches driver out. That bar should do. All my parts are in perfect condition. If your entire system has multiple faillure all vibration and looser part would forces other bushings. As soon something is bad.. replacement lol thanks

@@alfreddoumtaz215 that is correct, proper set up is everything.

@@ChadBIsRacing awesome!

@@ArkansasMike239 thanks. My main focus was to see if it would harm the car. I added double to use an extreme amount on my own car before I told anyone about it. The car had no ill effects so I tried it on another car with no issues, so I released the video. Check out the pinned comment for the end result.

@@TheStanleyWay that's awesome 👍🏻❤️

@@Tee82R awesome!

I don’t know anything about the SEL but from what I understand the plug is in the same place it is just a different type. I believe one is a blue plug and the other is a green plug. The SEL being a top model, the wiring is going to be different than mine.

@@nathanmurphy8707 thanks!

@@upnorthvlogs what kit are you thinking about buying? Don’t buy anything until you know what is wrong first. Your system may just be low on refrigerant. Adding some refrigerant while the car is running with A/C on may trigger the compressor to kick on.

@@TheStanleyWay my Ford F150 is exact same way. Compressor doesn’t kick on, but there is Freon in there. I was told to get a new air compressor and a condenser replacement kit

@@upnorthvlogs just because the compressor doesn’t come on doesn’t mean it is bad. You will almost certainly waste your money. Do some troubleshooting first or have someone look at it if you don’t know how. I have fixed multiple peoples A/C units and have never had to replace a compressor.

@@251suzuki awesome! Good job.

@@63steve you are welcome. I’m glad it helped. Thanks for watching and for the comment.

@@TheStanleyWay You helped me diagnose the problem as well, couldn't find it in my repair manual.

@@63steve awesome, I am happy it worked for you.

@@spcronin44 no you can still select heat.

Hmmmm...I followed the video and the A/C works perfect. However, the defroster doesn't get hot to clear the windshield on cool mornings. Any thoughts there?

@@spcronin44 are you turning the A/C off by pushing the A/C button? If not try that. If you are then it may be causing an issue with the blend door. The blend door actuator is on the drivers side by the drivers right foot. From the gas pedal look up and to the right and you will see it. Turn the key on without the engine running then select heat and cold back and forth. You should be able to hear and feel if that actuator is moving. If it isn’t then that is your problem. I had problems with mine as well so I did this Ford Fusion A/C Blows Hot/Blend Door Fix!! kzbin.info/www/bejne/qKPJpnSNpNJmqck. You don’t have to go extreme like I did but this may clear some things up for you.

You're the sh#t! Thank you.

@@spcronin44 thanks! No problem.

@@TheJfh67 the noise is caused by the clutch packs in the differential chattering and is not dangerous, just noisy. Make sure they are using Honda dual pump fluid only. It will not take any other oil except what Honda specifies. If they have changed it three times with the correct fluid and it still makes noise the clutch packs may need to be replaced but I would only do that if the noise bothers you.

@@bbrian85 you are welcome. I’m glad it worked. Thank you for the comment and for watching.

@@Edwinlopez-uh2vb yes. You either have to pull the dash out or cut a hole in the back of it to access the sensor.

@@coachgeo at least a 4 1/2”.

@@coachgeo here is a link to the one I used. www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/hack-n-tap-slip-yoke-eliminator-kit.html

@@javier2565 if you are talking about the breaker bar you can get those anywhere tools are sold. It is a 1/2” breaker bar. I bought mine from Sears many years ago it is a Craftsman brand. You can buy Craftsman tools from Lowes now. You can also buy the breaker bar and the O2 sensor tool from Amazon.

@@MADMIKE74 😂

@@lothar34 I’m not sure but it could be. The actuator may not be able to rotate the cam all the way. You could remove the actuator, turn on the fan and see if you can move the pins by hand and get air to those vents.

​@@TheStanleyWayyep it was still the mode actuator. Put the new one in and it was doing the exact same thing so I thought maybe it wasn't getting power. Unscrewed it and watched it change states when I powered on, put it in front vent mode, then move the pins with my hand until the front vent was the only thing blowing. Then screwed it back together and it worked like a champ. Thanks for the help you to save me about 300 bucks!

@@chrisluff7088 thanks!