Excellent video

Big project, huge. Good luck.

Love it mate, We gotta keep these legendry Aussie vehicles alive to show our kids and grand kids that Australia was once a proud manufacturing juggernaut. Love your work. New subscriber ......... from Adelaide too 👍

Australias version of the 327 chev

Have been greasing the rubber seals for 20 years because out back dust is like water , works it’s way into everything.

That little grey sounds saweet!

Mate for someone that doesnt know what he is doing u are smashing it stumbled ya channel yesterday loving this series of the fb build. Cant wait to watch the rest 🤙🤙🤙🤙

Pistons are balanced with ring pack and gudgeon pins you swap the ring pack and gudgeon pin around till you get the best result . Then you adjust the Pistons if you just do the Pistons it can still be out of balance.

It's called end float but we know what you're on about :)

Why would you put centre punch marks in the seal groove? Ive never seen or heard of a seal spinning in the housing.

As an older tech I have done a million tapered sets in all kinds of vehicle. I also own and have owned many Land Cruisers. I have never seen the inner nut torque at 59 nm. I know the outer is around that, but 45 ft lbs on a tapered bearing seems very high. The only tapered bearings I've seen with that kind of torque are sets the use a shim stack for preload. Do you have a link to the toyota service info that specifies this? Maybe I have been doing it wrong for decades.

No updates. I hope you're ok.

Great vid can ya do one on rear wheel bearings

Ps, i drive an original Ek wagon every day! My 18th EK ! Keen to see where your wagon is at. nowadays nowadays

Need more updates 😊

Cool as, wish i had seen this before, just done the rears😁

Hey mate, great video! Thank you for the tip on slave gear chamfer facing downward. So glad I watched your video prior to fitting sump pan haha! Best be off outside to remove oil pump and check which way I’ve put gear!! Thanks mate👍

This video is excellent! Very helpful and lots of good info! THank you sr! Keep up the good work!

Hi mate, So if INOX MX8 is a high-speed wheel bearing grease, that will be the only type of grease you will need for your entire front end? (Axle, CV shaft, CV Joint, upper & lower Steering Knuckle Bearings, Inner & Outer wheel bearings) No need to use Moly grease at all then? Thank you.

Agree with you complete on the Permatex sealant, never had an issue and in fact i wonder if i don't use it enough in place of some RTV applications .. you only need to spill some and try to clean to see how stubborn it is to remove, it can tear rags just trying to wipe it up !

Hey mate great video. What is the part number for this seal, i think I've got them 6cyl mid 60s Mercedes?

Anyone assembling a Grey in future MUST get some specialised advice. The very same knuckleheads who ruin them will tell you a Grey is no good. The Grey is a great little engine. However, their designers expected trained intelligent tradesman with logical minds would be involved in repairing & maintaining them. It only takes one or two stupid mistakes to ruin a Grey Motor. The hexagonal brass fitting installed inline between the hollow front & rear rocker arm shafts IS A METERING BLOCK. A knucklehead isn't clebber enough to examine it carefully & work this out. I just saw one get installed back to front. Luckily, this one simple mistake probably won't kill the engine overnight, but any series of similar silly mistakes CERTAINLY WILL! This hex block has a bleed hole to dribble oil onto the top of the head in order for that oil to run down & lubricate the cam followers in their bores. THE BLEED HOLE IS SUPPOSED TO BE AIMED DOWNWARDS WHEN INSTALLED CORRECTLY. To complicate matters, it is only needed in a TOTALLY brand new engine. After only a few thousand miles the shafts & the rocker arm bushes are sufficiently worn to allow plenty of oil out to trickle down to the cam followers. IT IS STANDARD PRACTICE TO PROPERLY BLOCK THAT BLEED HOLE ONCE THE ROCKERS HAVE RUN FOR 5000 MILES. Without new shafts & bushes THE BLEED HOLE MUST BE BLOCKED TO PREVENT OIL PRESSURE LOSS at the ROCKERS, MAINS, BIG ENDS & CAM BEARINGS. Later J - Series engines fitted to EJs came standard with a rivet plugging THAT HOLE. Now for the clincher! . . . Anyone half smart would notice that Hex Block has an oil passage right through it & that is why an oil line is connected to it. It carries all the oil to the rockers. A total clod would hopefully realise it has a substantially larger bore in only one end! THAT AINT AN ACCIDENT! Not noticing is! The engine doesn't sit level in the car. It is mounted nose up for several reasons. To overcome gravity sending all the oil to the rear rockers only, Holden provided a larger opening in the front of the METERING BLOCK so sufficient oil could make it's way to the front six rocker arms. So, the bigger bore hole goes to the front & that puts the bleed hole that should be plugged aimed downwards. This is infants school stuff. Grey engines are wonderful little things that work nicely. They propelled Australians for literally billions of miles from November 1948. Well over a million of them were produced & their reliability, performance & economy are legendary. Thousands of them were modified for racing & many are still racing today. Their stellar racing record is astounding. Even Jack Brabham raced Grey Motor powered cars. Sadly, it only takes one intervention from just one knucklehead to damage them & ruin their reputation. Only gifted people should be involved in working on them... Otherwise, tragedy & needless expense soon follow.

Very well explained. Top job

Gday just come across your vids I’m looking at an fb wagon to buy atm so these vids are so helpful don’t know whether daunting or inspiring haha couldn’t of imagined the complexity of creating that Y-frame section must be very satisfying at the end of the day , great work 🙌🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼

Mate great videos has helped me rebuild my 138 . One question how has the rear end bearing seal (Mercedes Benz) going has it sealed or has it leaked . Thinking about doing the same . 0:03 0:03

Mate great videos has helped me rebuild my 138 . One question how has the rear end bearing seal (Mercedes Benz) going has it sealed or has it leaked . Thinking about doing the same .

Mate great videos has helped me rebuild my 138 . One question how has the rear end bearing seal (Mercedes Benz) going has it sealed or has it leaked . Thinking about doing the same .

Love your vid's mate!! What brand rear main seal did you use?

Great vidios. Would love to get a pair of those circlip pliers but I can't find them anywhere. Would love to here from you about this Cheers Rick

Next Episode?

Can you tell me where you got the oil filter gear from mate

Great video. Hubby and myself are doing this today. 79 series tray back.

Hey mate any chance of making some more please

Well presented, best I could find, cheers.

Well done mate, you are a natural educator. Keep up the vids and excellent work camera lady, great footage. 👍🏽👍🏽

Grew up with grey motors, dad had an old FJ ute for many years, and one in a stationary saw bench trailer setup. Can't beat that solid lifter sound. Well done from Perth, WA.

Just bought these , will let you know how it goes, they look really good, delivered within days,😊

Hi Drew, will this fit a 2008 78serise troopcarrier rear, the ideal seems great, 😊

This is the best ever detailed video ever made full of great tips thanks for sharing such gold info and video for the community, Do you have same for rear too?

mate rotate the engine a few degrees & make the TDC mark with a hack saw blade

Best big end and main bearing lube is Gulf Western chain & bar oil, sticky , tacky, cheap. Engine oil on the pistons of course & spray moly or moly grease on the lifters & lubes. works every time.

hey do you still see no issues with running nulon extreme grease for bearings & CV's etc im just trying to simplify things and only carry one type of grease? ive got RCV 300m axles & CVs in my 105 just dobnt know if i should be running moly grease in CV, ive just bought your spindle greaser and would prefer just using nulon extreme for everything in the hub.

Great work mate , im doin a grey at the moment with the same cam from clive how do you find it cheers

Hi did you say you used a Mercedes rope seal?

Mount it infront the radiator, just run it backwards.

Love your channel mate and no nonsense, practical approach to the job at hand. I have a FB special, wagon, and have needed to repair, weld floors, replace seals, bushes, all the same stuff you have. Loved the tip about the Mustang fuel tank ! mines OK, but geez they're small, some extra capacity and range would be useful , one day. I've left the entire driveline standard and only engine mod is a radiator recovery tank to keep all the coolant , where it belongs, in the engine !! Good luck with your channel, keep it comin' Thanks for posting and keep up the great work.

Your final preload of 59 Nm is to high.

The tappet clearance is 12 thou exhaust and 8 thou inlet this is for standard cam setting

Hi mate great videos The bloke that done your Carburetors dose he still do them or have you got contact info thanks

Any issue with bearing grease mixing with moly grease in cv and axle connection ? most videos show moly grease packed in knuckle /cavity ? or do use bearing grease only ?