Would you recommend buying this and running it in eco mode if I have air cooler. Or buying one of the lower tdp zen 5 chips. Which have a lower initial purchase price too. Im going to be running this on a full server that runs 24/7 but also as a main desktop machine for intensive tasks. Previous cpu was ryzen 5 1600 bought in 2017.

Garbage

I wonder if it could run off a crystal detector tuned to a local radio station?

Interesting. So that little potted stick is an inverter. I always wondered what those were. In addition to the PR100, I had an SR4190R that carried me through tech school. It had a killer feature - I called it "exponent bumping" that I have never found in a non-Commodore calculator. Basically, if you have an answer in nano-somethings and you really wanted micro-somethings, you just hit a key until the exponent shows -6...the mantissa will adjust to suit. Being so fond of that, I still have a working 70's Commodore on my desk - an SR5190R. And a couple SR-1800's. Not as fancy as the SR5190R, but they have gorgeous green fluorescent displays.

I didn't trust Chinese Smart plugs they always faulty. My 4 WOOX WIFI Smart plug from last year, 2 plugs went failed stuck permanent power on & 1 plug failed won't turn on & 1 worked fine but sometime come back stuck permanent power on. I go back old timer/schedule worked fine & remote switches plugs non-smart plug worked fine 🤷 Most Chinese are not good electronic skilled. Need more made in USA or Euro or UK products.

SUPER video thanks, just go mine up and running again after a few days of repairs.

This is exactly what I wanted to do. I purchased a PIC16F1939 to drive 4 static large 7 segment LCDs. I did not know about multiplexing consuming more power. So which one uses less power: Using 2 Common pins to drive 4 displays in 2x2 groups or using all 4 Common pins to drive all displays with same segment pins? I unfortunately can not get the LF variant of PICs locally so I will see what I can do with this one. I guess adding 2 more 7 segment displays to show seconds is kind of pointless and will only increase power usage. I will just use the dots of the displays to show 1/4 of an minute. Yesterday I wrote code to use timer1 with 32768Hz quartz crystal to count up to 9 on a single 7 segment LCD and will soon try adding other segments. What I want to do after making this is to use PIC16F1936 to drive a combination of very small 3 digit and 2 digit 7 segment LCDs to make a wristwatch. I also have a 4 segment watch LCD with the “:” but it is 3cm long so bit too big for a wristwatch. After making my LCD purchase I realised that they sell a 6 segment 2.2cm long one which is the perfect size for a wrist watch.

I just tear down my LG gram today ! thanks for the vid. There are 2 hidden latches at rear exhaust, if you look closely there are some (4) plastic that looks different than exhaust fins., use flathead screw pull toward yourself a bit, you'' hear *clack* sound, so it will pop out from latch, so you can now remove the bottom cover easily.

I connected the rtc according to the data sheet, but it's using 45uA instead of 45nA at 1.8V. Any idea why this might be? The clock works perfectly, but it's drawing way too much power. BTW, I'm using the evaluation board version of the RTC, which already has the SLA and SDA with the 10k resistors. Feel stuck at the moment. Vdd is 1.8V straight from power supply. When I connect it via 2x 10k res, the clock starts at 00:00, but counts one minute every 2 seconds. Microcontroller draw is 380nA and each segment around 45nA. Any help would be appreciated!!

Hello very interesting your video. Could I ask you where did you buy your special tools to open the hue plug? Thans

1st. You need a new Ring on your finger, it is to small. 2. Don't close a repaired Part before testing. But interesting Video.

How can you tell which pins to connect the middle ones to on the USB A port?

Hello. Have you already screwed the screw on the shelf into place? 😅

Pls give me the number my pen drive is damaged

What about noise?

Yesterday, I just repaired a Kasa Smart Plug. In looking at this video, I'm quite surprised how similar the electronics look. Not 100% the same, but very close. I have a whole bunch of these Nasa plugs and they have been flawless. I even have some in our garage which is about 150' from the house and router. Yet, they connect and stay connected to WiFi. So with this one plug, it went bad due to my not putting attention onto what I was doing. I had this outside to control the back yard lights, turn on at dusk, off at 10PM then on again at 5:30 am and off at dawn. I placed this under the rear patio roof and covered it with plastic to protect from the weather. Well I didn't do such a good job on that! LOL We had a lot of rain over the last couple of weeks and I found that this outlet stopped working. I brought it up to the lab to find that there had been the Magic Smoke generator was activated. LOL I had to use rotary tool with a fine-point tip to dig out and clean up the carbon where it turned the PCB. I did get lucky, because with all that shorting going on, the only component that failed was the fuseable 10 Ohm, 2W resistor. This was one of the tightest tolerances I have ever seen. It was a 0.25 % tolerance! LOL No way I could find any around here and no way I would order from China... so I found some fuseable resistors, 10 ohm, 2W but 5%. I just measured some to find one that was bang on 10 ohms. It worked perfectly. I'll say, these Kasa products are really good. I have... well.. HAD... some other outlets by a different company that just never worked right. They were bitchy to set up and constantly lost connection. Now, they won't even connect and many people are complaining. No biggy for me, however, because I'll just strip them for the relays. LOL

Un-obtaineum -- long obsolete and discontinued.

well done, i see a lot of smoke. Do u have a fume extractor ?

If you add a snubber network across the relay contacts, you will never need to change the relay again, it stops the contacts arcing on open and close!

Thank you for your service, Mr Grunting Elephant. Wasn't sure if there was anything attached to the lid like with some laptops.

*PromoSM*

That's cool. Have you done this type of videos with custom PCBs?

Nice job and thanks for sharing that Omron ref! The relay is far from being the tallest thing on that board, so realistically you don't need to match the pinout, you could rewire it........and maybe use a solid state relay in its place? I find the audible click of a relay sounds quite archaic on a supposedly premium electric gadget in 2023

I love my HPs, but one of the earliest ones I have that's _very_ similar to your fx-991D is the Radio Shack EC-4035. Having the base-n mode so you can treat hex as a first-class citizen and the fixed engineering mode with units is great.

Glad its not just me thats been suffering with this. I've had a number of these go with the same issue recently, in my case they are powering non-smart lights (e.g. Christmas lights or lamps) which is their intended use as far as i am aware. Interestingly a plug I've had for approximately 3 years has been rock solid, but the other couple I've bought within the last year have all failed in the same way you detailed in the video. The latest has only lasted a few months. (I'm using UK plugs too)

can I use pickit3 for program PIC16F1705?

both relays' datasheets say they should last at least 100,000 operations. do you know what might have caused these to fail before that? i wonder if in a more sustainability concerned economic milieu it might make sense to have relays be items you could pop out and pop in to replace, like fuses.

why?

hi can you upgrade RAM also?

Great review! I can buy one, but didn't talk about price yet. How do you think

where did those 45 years go? :(

Somehow it just never occurred to me that hours minutes seconds even really required a calculator. Those are all small integers - I just do those in my head. Most good calculators have HMS+ and HMS- functions, though.

All GUI writers should be locked into a test room for 1,000 days and made to use the scope all that time in order to make these GUI MORRONS write the GUI properly, INCLUDING responsiveness!

Maybe the terrible ADC is because the Rigol has a terrible ADC? :) ...a compromise for the 8GS/s ADC!

My bro goes antique till 2:19 and boom! fishes out an HP prime which was there under the pile al this time 😂

what is the max supported capacity of the ssd? Can I for example use 4tb x 2? So 8tb in total

USB Broken

Po35e6655

Is it possible? Do you sell it?

What do you think of the new siglent 2000 HD? Would be awesome if you do a review on it. Or the new 12bit Rigol dho1204

HUAWEI = WHO ARE WE

Why I don't like using the calculator on my PC. I have to pop up the calculator over all the apps I am working in. Make my calculation. Switch to the app I am working in and paste it. Then switch back to calculator which is now hidden by the window I am working in. Argh! Its like playing ping pong. On calculators...I like my old HP 20S. Not RPN, 13 digits, 3 LR44 batteries, I don't have to switch modes to do base conversions. 1+2*3 = 7. And the buttons have a nice solid click. I dislike mushy buttons. LOL

No way !!

What about Synclair

Just added the additional M2 disk. A knife would make it so ease to remove the glued point

Would you be willing to share your source code and more detailed schematics ? Also what frequency is BBC 5 ? I would love to play with it, my knowledge of digital signal processing at this level is very poor and this seems to be a really good entry project ! Thank you for consideration.

It still happens on my scope after installing firmware 1.30. What do you mean by 'option key'?

Coming from the Dave video where you suggest low power consumption tips. Loved the video, are you planning to make a PCB and enclosure to fully complete the project?

a PIC10F project, nice!!