@@baba268thomas3 Technically, with any RC, you can replace the receiver, and use whatever radio you want. There are some exceptions, as certain ESCs don't like "working together" with certain transmission protocols. For example, many of the Traxxas ESCs will work with the older Futaba protocols, but they won't work with the current protocol. The Rlaarlo ESC in the AK-917 had no problem with Futaba, FlySky, or Radiolink receivers.

@ninthislandrc thanks for the help

@@Glocktologist Then you should really check out the new Formula One chassis kit from GL Racing. The motor is mounted transversely, and the transmission is definitely 'unique'. I've been building one (as well as rebuilding an Arrma Typhon Grom BLX), but I'm having to take an "unscheduled break", due to this little things called the flu.

​@@Test1ngOneTwo First, I don't run in snow, so I can't help you there. As fun as it might be (and, I'm sure it's loads of fun), personally, I don't recommend it. For one thing, in order to properly maintain the vehicle, you'll need to do a LOT of maintenance after EVERY run. Just to give one example, you'd need to check, clean, and re-lube every bearing. On top of that, plastic & cold don't exactly get along with each other. Expect to shorter the life of the suspension arms a little more every time you run in the snow. As for the springs, and as I already mentioned in my reply on FB, I don't plan to start doing any tuning until the last round of upgrades is installed. Between installing the Phase 1 & Phase 3 upgrades, that is when I'll start checking into spring options (or, if need be, alternate shock & spring options). When running, if the lower suspension arms are parallel with the ground, that's 'proper'. From wheels to chassis, if they're sloping slightly upward, that's, ok (especially if jumping an RC)...but, if they're sloping slightly downward, that's where you can increase the preload (at least, until alternate springs are figured out). Honestly, I wish I could provide you with more information, but as of right now, I don't have any. I've only gotten to take mine out one time since getting it, as I've been working quite a bit. I will say that, during that one time out, I got two packs through it, and she ran beautifully. I hope to get some that footage uploaded soon, but I also have two other videos (for the Kraken VESLA) I need to edit first, plus I have another convention to drive for this week (last week was CES), as well as another convention next week.

Thanks for the reply! I definitely agree-running it in snow will shorten the life of some parts. That said, I make it a point to check, clean, and relube everything I can with hydrophobic lube, including all easily accessible bearings and dog bone contact points where rust could form. I also use a protection net to keep most of the snow out of the chassis, which helps protect the electronics, center diff, and center driveshafts from moisture. In my experience, as long as I dry everything thoroughly and relube it after running in the snow, the car continues to run well. I drove the HPI WR8 all last winter. After recently maintaining the diffs and inspecting the bearings, most of the parts were still in good condition. It’s worth the maintenance for me. I’d rather replace a few parts or bearings after a season than avoid driving in snow altogether. Living in the Alps, where roads and most parking lots are either salted or occasionally untouched by salt in the mountains, it’s an easy choice to take it out in the snow when I can! I’m looking forward to when you cover tuning parts and start looking into spring and shock options. No rush, though! Thank you for the Tips!

@@sybrows You're going to love it. Had it out for it's initial run a couple days ago (hope to get the video edited & uploaded soon, but will probably have to wait until after CES). Even in stock form, and even though one of the shocks has air in it (didn't have time to properly bleed it before heading to CA for several days), the handling was outstanding.

@@RCvapor Thank you. Hoping to have the "upgrade parts" video up within the next few days.

We all have...lol. One of these days, I might finally get into gas (maybe a Losi 5ive-T to start)...but, for now, I'm electric-only. I spent part of the afternoon building the transmission...first time I've ever had to use automotive tools for building an RC - to tighten the spring-plates (part of holding the spur gear in place), you need to use a 27mm nut driver (largest I have in my RC toolset is 24mm, for the X-MAXX & VESLA.5 wheel nuts). Enjoy the build...I know I am.

Update: Be sure to check for missing parts. So far, I've gone through bags A, B, and E, and I discovered the driveshafts (bag B) are missing. Not saying your (or anyone else's) kit will be missing parts...but, it's is always good to check (for example, I recently had two of the same LEGO sets, and both were missing 2 of the exact same parts, plus my Associates RC10CC was missing 3 parts). If you find any parts missing, please, post a comment as to what was missing.

Unfortunately, I don't know what you mean by "50kph model" (and, I don't think others will understand, either) - did you get the aluminum or carbon fiber chassis version (those are how Rlaarlo designates the two primary variants)? Also, what upgrades 'recommended' & 'required' will vary, depending on your intended use (ie. bashing, or speedrunning). Regarding upgrades, the initial upgrades are covered in my video (others have also posted 'upgrade' videos for the AK-917 & AK-787)...but, to get you started, the aluminum uprights (front & rear), and aluminum bulkheads, are a 'must', whether bashing, or doing speed runs. If you're intending to do speed runs, and you got the CF chassis, most of the other upgrades (aluminum steering, CF shock towers, CF top brace, etc) are already taken care of...but, if you got the aluminum chassis version, then you'll need to get those. Also, for bashing, the stock bearings are good enough to start with...but, for speed runs, you'll want something better (but not ceramic...they're outstanding for racing, but not 'good' for speed runs). Another upgrade to consider (especially if doing speed runs) is stronger, higher-quality turnbuckles...especially titanium. Yes, they can sometimes cost more than the steel or aluminum ones...but, you're getting something as strong as (or stronger than) steel, while being as light as aluminum. Another thing to consider is spur & pinion gears. For bashing, the stock pitch is good...but, for speedrunning, you'll want to switch to 32p (ie. Mod 0.8) or Mod 1. Finally, regarding motors, since you're asking, I'm assuming you bought the roller, and not the RTR. If RTR, and if bashing, the stock ESC & motor are very good...not 'outstanding', but WELL above 'average'. If roller & bashing, look at the Rlaarlo website, and stock with a motor with similar kv. As for speedrunning, I can't give any specific recommendations, as the motor kv is going to partially depend on your gearing, and partially on voltage (ie. 2S, 3S, or 4S). Plus, if you're planning to use it for speed runs, in regards to an ESC, I'd recommend a Castle Mamba X, or Castle MMX. Hopefully, this info gets you started. Best of luck...and...welcome to Rlaarlo ownership. From the experience of most of us owning the AK-917 & AK-787, these are just as good as (if not better than) the Traxxas 4Tec, but for a lot less money.

To the best I can recall, the eBay listing stated "TRX4". Truth is, this is a 'generic' CF & aluminum batter tray, and can probably be used in a wide variety of vehicles, from different manufacturers, as it wasn't designed for any "one specific" vehicle.

Ok thanks

No video...but, honestly, it wasn't difficult. What you see in this video as the "spur" gear is actually a 32P pinion gear. The stock spur was attached to a "spur holder" using 4 screws, then (if I'm remembering correctly) the"spur holder" was held in place on the spool with a grub screw in the same way that a pinion gear is held in place on a motor shaft. Simply replace the stock spur gear & "spur holder" with a pinion gear having a 5mm bore. The 'trick' is finding gears that are thin enough. If the gear is too thick, it'll press against the motor mount, impeding the spool from freely rotating. If I remember correctly, I may have even mentioned that, and shown what happens, in one of the videos after this one. Previously, almost everyone switching the AK-917 & AK-787 to Mod1, or 32P, did so using pinions from SagaCustoms, as his gears were thinner than anyone elses...but, he recently updated the entire line with gears that are thicker, so no longer Verizon they will work.

Thank you. Although, in all honesty, I can't take full credit, as the question...and, thus, the idea for doing the video...came from a subscriber, Murphy's Law.

Simple answer is, yes. And, thinking about it, technically, a fan could be mounted to any RC body, as long as the area the fan is to be mounted to is flat, or very close to flat. As for 'how', I was going to give step-by-step directions...but, instead, your question has inspired me to do a short "how to" video, which will help you, and others. I should have that video up within the next few days. Stay tuned...and, honestly, thank you for the idea (in the video, credit will be given to you).

If you're not already subscribed to my channel, you might want to. The video with the answer to your question is uploading as I type this. It should be viewable within the next 1-2 hours.

🤙🏼 You might want to also check out the 'unboxing' video for the recently-announced/released MRT EVO. It's a RWD chassis...but, it's based on an AWD chassis. The rear is 'AWD', while the front is 'RWD'...but, it still uses AWD wheels at all 4 corners. Hope to start building soon...but, this time around, I'll cover the build in all day a few short videos (as opposed to a single, 45+ minute, video). Also considering the RTRC RTA (the new V2), as it's a rarely-seen chassis here is the US.

Thank you. I've been wanting to get more videos done...and, as the triple-digit temps finally started dropping into the double-digits, and the workload started getting lighter, I thought I was going to finally be able to get back to doing some videos. But, then, out of the blue, work started picking up again - first with two jobs into California, then a multi-day job to Utah, followed by the Formula 1 Las Vegas, the rodeo, the NBA In-Season Tournament, the PAC-12 Championship, and the NCAA Las Vegas Bowl. In other words, a LOT of work...and, virtually no time for RC. Hopefully, with the new year kicking off in a few days, I'll be able to get more done...once I finish "upgrading" the RC workstation, which involves two new cameras (one permanently mounted directly over the desk, facing down) new editing software (DaVinci Resolve Studio), and a hardware video editor. As the same time, I will be driving for CES, as well as the Super Bowl, and a could other conventions in-between...so, that will take since time away. But, I'm still hoping to get more done. As much as I want to get the "Affordable speed run build" series done, think I'll first be doing the build on this MRT EVO.

I admit, I don't always have the answer. If I have an answer, I'll give it...and, if I don't, I'll try my best to find it...and, if I can't find it, I'll admit I don't have it. Glad to have been able to help. As sort of an "update" to this video, Rlaarlo has been working hard since the release of the AK-917...working hard to correct the shipping problems, and working hard to improve customer service. While they are not to the level of Amain or Traxxas, they HAVE improved a considerable amount, and are continuing to work on improving. Honestly, I believe they learned from the mistake of "underestimating", so that, when the AK-787 was released, they were far-better prepared.

@@ninthislandrc For the money, I'm impressed with the quality and parts availability so far. It's a step up from the TT02 chassis I'm using for now, that's for sure!

I ordered them through eBay. The seller recently changed his business name...but, if you find a seller with a large variety of different decals, and is offering them in multiple sizes (from 1/28 to 1/8), that's the seller.

@@ninthislandrc thank you!!

@@carvingfool Most welcome. What I can tell you is, over the past few years, I've ordered from him at least a few times (before the recent business name change). Quality had always been extremely good. Several years ago, be did some custom decals for me (the first time I had ever ordered from him), and those decals are still 100% perfect on the body I put them on (an Imperial Stormtrooper-themed Axial Capra).

@@ninthislandrc awesome thank you!

This is all RX28SE, not RX28. That being said, if I remember correctly, the RX28SE Gen 1 also didn't come with one. None of my 1/28 kits have come with bumpers. From what I've been able to tell, very few 1/28 kits appears to come with bumpers...and, that makes sense, as bumpers tend to be body-specific.

Unfortunately, I had a limited amount of time. When I said I wasn't actually supposed to be inside SEMA, I wasn't kidding. Between not being a registered attendee, and being on my lunch break between morning & afternoon shuttling shifts, my being inside was a relatively quick "in & out". Technically, we can go inside...but, not to explore any convention in its entirety, and not to spend "as much time as we want".

My second one...a CF roller...also came with the lights. I don't plan on using them in either AK-917...but, I could always find a user for them in another vehicle. Say, maybe a Tamiya (I frequently use electronics from one company in vehicles from another company).

Red Bull 😁 Thing is, I have this custom "Red Bull" theme that I'm starting to apply to add many of my vehicles & vessels as possible.

I have them in a few different scales. Quality of the decals is extremely good. I first ordered from that seller (even before he changed the business name) approx 2yrs ago, and have placed a few orders since.

Another subject. Do you know what motor mounts work to upgrade the Rlaarlo to a TP4040? The TP motor face is too wide and the screws are larger than the Rlaarlo adj. motor Mount. Raz used a TP4040 motor in the build where he got 170 on a single 4s battery. He showed lots of pictures of the motor Mount which is red but I can’t make out the brand? I appreciate your help if you have an idea!

@@GregoryMcGehee-ex3cl If I remember correctly, he used the a Hobao GTE2 motor mount. North Rlaarlo motor mounts only allow a 36mm can motor. However, in using the Hobao motor mount, you will have to drill & countersink additional holes in the chassis. In order to use anything larger than a 36mm motor mount, you will have no choice but to modify the chassis.

Decals were purchased from an eBay seller: MakeLettering He makes a considerable variety of decals, in multiple scales ranging from 1/24 to 1/7.

Thanks buddy!!!

I believe it blows out from the videos I've seen

The way mine is installed from the factory, is blows air downward, towards the chassis. However, what jeffdavis mentioned would be the way it SHOULD have been installed. Believe it, or not, not only did I never notice this before, but I never ever thought of checking until you asked. In other words, the factory installed fan on mine is installed in the 'wrong' direction...it SHOULD have been positioned to blow air out. However, I can also see thought process in installing it how they installed it, as they were probably thinking it's blowing air towards the motor, to help cool the motor...except that that would have required the motor to be centered directly below the fan, which it is not. I probably never thought about checking, because I installed a heatsink & dual fan directly on the motor. I will be switching that fan, so as to blow air upward, and out, as it should have been in the first place.

Two searching Amazon & eBay using the following keyword combo: wheel tire 67mm I guarantee, you will find options. Can't claim to know how good/bad they might be...but, at least there's 'options'. Alternately, try AMain, Horizon Hobby, and other online RC retailers...and each carries a wide variety, they're could be possibilities. Of course, you can also order mounted tires direct from Rlaarlo. While RTRs sometimes have a delay in shipping, parts orders usually ship fairly quickly. I've received parts orders direct from Rlaarlo in as little as 6 days after placing the order.

They don't classify their offsets in the traditional way. If I remember correctly (but, don't quote me on this...I recommend you double-checking, to be on the safe side), their 'standard' hex (part 365353) is 3.5mm (the thickness is what I suggest double-checking). They also offer a variety of 'plus' & 'minus' offsets, ranging from -1.25mm, to +4.5mm. What offset you should get depends on the body you're using, and what wheels you're using...as well as whether you might want to bring the wheels in, or push them out. Honestly, I can't "recommend" what your should get, as you could be switching to a different body and/or different wheels (one of which I've done on the first AK-917, and both of which I'll be doing on the second). What I can tell you is that moving the wheels further apart (ie. higher offset) will allow the vehicle to be more stable, but can sacrifice some speed...and moving the wheels in can help increase top speed, but will sacrifice stability. Offset is one of the "tuning options" that you will even find the world's top speedrunners playing around with...there is no "once correct answer" for any RC.

Unless you have a motor with a REALLY long shaft, flipping the pinion the other way isn't possible. What happens is, doing so places the grub screw either right at the tip of the motor shaft, or past the end of the shaft.

@@ninthislandrc thank you, sir!

@@ninthislandrc I bought a Castle 1412 6400KV and it has a long shaft and seems to fit with no modifications. I do appreciate all the time and advice you give in your videos buddy! It helped me prepare to build my own car. I only watch a couple of guys and you are one of them.

​@@GregoryMcGehee-ex3clFirst, thank you for watching. I know I don't get to upload as much content as almost all others, which is due to my 'complicated' work anti-schedule...lol...but, I'm trying. As for the 1412, in terms of diameter, it would easily fit, being a 36mm can. As for shady length, I didn't mean to make it sound as if no motors work longer shafts would fit (without mod)...it entirely depends on the length of the shaft. Obviously, there's no "standard" in RC motor shaft lengths. The 'trick' for cars having minimal space where the pinion goes is, and wanting to "flip" the pinion, is (obviously) finding motors with longer shafts that are long enough to flip there pinion, but not so long as to hit something. You appear to have succeeded in this. 👍🏼 The other 'solution' (when having a motor with too long of a shaft) is to slightly cut the shaft. It's not easy...but, it is a 'solution'. Of course, the other 'solution' is the one I did...modifying the motor mount, as I did, which is fairly easy to do. Glad to see you found your 'solution'. 🤙🏼

@@ninthislandrc thanks man! Can you help me with something else? I want to run BSR foams but don’t know how to convert the disk brake rotor setup to work with foams? Thanks for replying!

I'd say, most AK-917 owners have added a fan to the motor. For my first car...what I'm now referring to as the 3S car, I added a double fan w/ heatsink from Power Hobby. The second car, which will (once built) be referred to as the 4-6S car, will be running a 40mm motor, for which the on-motor cooling is still to be decided. As I'm not yet giving any details on what will be entailed in this build, the only thing I can say is that it will be radically different. Unfortunately, my work schedule has prevented me from getting any RC work done for the past two months, so entirely uncertain when I'll get to it. 🤙🏼

No 1/28 chassis...be it the Atomic SZ2, Kyosho MR-03, or any other...can fit "all" Mini-Z bodies. Just as chassis can be built to different wheelbase lengths, bodies are for different wheelbase lengths. Mine is built to 98mm...so, should be able to fit most 98mm wheelbase bodies.

What pinion would you recommend with a 5000kv motor? Maybe there is a pinion set that would work? Great vid

Thank you...and, thanks for the sub. Since the upgrades were installed, I've been waiting for it to "cool down" (temps here for the past month have been over 100) enough to get the post-upgrade shakedown done. One morning, 1.5 weeks ago, it was in the low '90s, which I figured would be "cool enough", and decided to give it a go...unfortunately, I had forgotten to swap the Hot Racing spur, for the saga RC spur. The HR gear Was rubbing against the motor mount, causing excessive binding in the drive train. Since that day, temps have gone back up, so still haven't gotten to properly do the shakedown. In the meantime, a CF roller was delivered, which I'm be building into an 'extreme' 4S car (the first AK-917 is for 3S only). I can't give any details on it, at least not yet. Only one person had been provided any details on what my plans are...but, once complete, I will upload a video on it, as well as pay in the FB group.

@@ninthislandrc that's awesome brother, the heat is a killer here too, over 100 for a while now in Louisiana, can't wait to see your speed runs.

Extremely good. If it weren't for Mark, I wouldn't have known about them. I did, however, slightly mod the ones I ordered. The cables I ordered have QS8 battery connectors, and 6S balance leads...but, for all of my boats that will be running QS8, they run a mixture of 4S & 6S, including two 3S in series. So, I notched the balance leads to accept 3S & 4S packs. Currently, my vehicle & battery collection consists of the following connections - EC2, EC3, EC5, XT60, XT90, QS8, Castle 6.5, and 7mm bullets. My current 'goal' is to have all RCs (with the exception of my helicopter (EC2) & rock racer (Deans)) running either XT60, or QS8.

@@ninthislandrc that's awesome brother

First, what that driver did ROYALLY sucks. Hope you got the license plate. I am NOT advocating doing anything illegal...but, if you have the license plate (even better if you also have it on video), you can use that info in a legal way. Without seeing photos, it's difficult (actually, impossible) to know where, specifically, you're referring to. So, I am going to assume you're referring to the vehicle's rear (ie. the dogbone, as opposed to the front CVD). Is it coming out from the outdrive cup (ie. the differential end), or the stub axle (ie. the wheel end). Best suggestion I can give (until/unless you reply back) is to check the movement of that suspension arm, from fully compressed, to fully extended, and see where, exactly, the dogbone is falling out. WHat I did was replace the rear dogbones & axle stubs with front CVDs. The Traxxas Sledge had this same problem..and, my "solution" was the same (ie. replaced the rear dogbones & axle stubs with front CVDs).

@@ninthislandrc yeah mate, it did suck. NZ has some ar#!%ohes. I got it on video, but I had to edit all my swearing out for it to go up on my KZbin channel. It'll be up on my channel at some stage soon, because I set it to a specific date to go up. I'm planning to do a speed run with a 3s & 4s LiPo once I've sorted out this issue. My finally speed run will be when I have a tinker round with the gears to get the max out of it. I also plan to look at things like installing small cameras for a 3D headset experience. I feel that perspective could generate a lot of interest. ATM my videos aren't that great, but I plan to improve them a lot. The issue is with one of the front wheels. It's that funny socket thing that joins the wheel. Sorry, I'm a bit new to the RC car hobby. Replacing the socket arm thingy on the front might be the haps, that's if something is broken. I might've lost a screw or something when it first popped out.

@@thediscoverworkshop_asmr1096 Don't know what you mean by " socket thing that joins the wheel". Look at the 'exploded views' in the manual, pages 15 through 17, and tell me what part number you're referencing. The lower suspension arm is R10031, the upper is R10035, the front CVD driveshaft is R10067, and the front upright/steering hub is R100300. I'm just trying to help narrow down the possibilities, but I'm guessing it might be one of, or related to one of, these.

If you truly believe that, then you really don't pay much attention to the "major players". With the exception of Traxxas, almost every company out there sends top KZbinrs free units to do videos on. That drives interest...which IS part of 'overhyping'. A perfect example i would be the just-released Moto-MX from Losi. As a matter of fact, Horizon Hobby does as much as possible to get as much 'hype' as they can for almost every HH-branded vehicle. As for Traxxas, they do it...they just do it differently. They do as much self-promoting as possible, to drive up the hype. When they have something new, they start blasting out countless emails to everyone who's subscribed to their list. They'll film several different videos, and they'll send out a different email for each video, purposely running them to be sent anywhere from a couple days, to a couple weeks, apart. The point is, there's almost NO companies...RC, or otherwise...that's "immune" from hyping their products as much as they can, in whatever ways they can. 'Products' rarely sell themselves. It's marketing that drives sales, and hyping products in whatever way possible is just one form of marketing. Even business that sell services (lawyers, insurance companies, etc) do it. With the exception of companies that cater to the rich (Ferrari, Lamborghini, Rolex, etc), I'd be willing to bet you'd be hard-pressed to name 10 major companies that don't hype their products/services in some way.

@@ninthislandrc My, that's quite a dissertation. I agree on some points and disagree on others. I've been involved in RC for more than half a century and certain products are produced for certain mindsets. Rlaaro's claim of 100 mph out of the box is patently false as are many, many other manufacturers claims. So, as always, caveat emptor.

@@OmarGreeneotraPedroVerde I get what you're saying k in this reply)...but, I want referring specifically to the speed claim. I was referring to every aspect of overhyping a product. Now, in regards to the speed claim matter, we are agreed that most RC manufacturers are guilty of such. However...in going over Rlaarlo's info on the AK-917 (I was just double-checking the website, to make certain I didn't accidently miss, or misread, something), nowhere did it state these claims speeds are "out of the box", or "when used with the included speed gear" (both of which Traxxas has been guilty of in the past). It just states certain speeds for which each configuration is supposedly capable of...and, based on the speeds that people are actually obtaining, not only did Rlaarlo NOT lie, but the speeds claimed by Rlaarlo have proven EXTREMELY conservative. The 'fastest' speed Rlaarlo claims/states is 200kph (or 124mph). If you've been paying attention to the actual speeds people are reaching, you know they have gone far past that (I believe the current record is 162mph). Again, Rlaarlo's speed claims do not specify "out of the box"...only what should be obtainable. In other words, there's a definite difference between claiming an "out of the box" speed, and just claiming a "top speed". 🤙🏼

@@ninthislandrc Well, sir, the last time I checked, RTR is synonymous with "Out of the Box". (Usually, minus batteries and a decent charger.) It is advertised as an RTR vehicle. It's even on the box. (Not the blow mold they sent all the "influnencers".) In addition, to acheive these speeds that some folks are getting, are only after extensive modifications. Bottom Line: You roll the dice with Chinese products. WlToys is probably the worst offender. IMO.

@@OmarGreeneotraPedroVerde "Out of the box" and "RTR" are not even close to the same meaning. "Out of the box" is applicable to ALL RCs...RTR, ARTR, roller, or kit...if said vehicle includes spur & pinion gears. And, one final time (hoping you understand this time), Rlaarlo is not stating "out of the box", or any other wording that would mean the same. When you look at the Traxxas Sledge, which is an RTR, you will see the words "70+mph with two 3S Lipo batteries and optional gearing". When you look at the Arrma Limitless, which is a roller (ie. NOT an RTR), you will see the words "Capable of 110+ mph speeds in optimum conditions with the recommended electronics". If you look at the HPI Baja 5B SBK, which is a kit (ie. also NOT an RTR), you will see the words "The Baja 5B FLUX is ready for up to 8S of raw Lipo power, so you can see speeds of over 50 miles per hour". Obviously, your 'understanding' of what "Out of the box" means isn't correct, especially considering 2 of the 3 vehicles I referenced are not RTRs. Time to think your understanding of what "out of the box" means.

Honestly, of the various on-road 1/10 RTRs I've purchase over the past several years, in terms of quality & durability, the AK-917 is one of the two best in my collection (the other would be the Traxxas 4Tec 3.0). Some may feel the AK-917 was 'overhyped'...but, other than the turnbuckle problem (which, as previously mentioned, is being corrected), I feel the car is pretty spot-on. Although I'm unable to participate in the Speedrun Challenge, and haven't been able to run mine as often as I'd like (due to work & high temperature), I'm COMPLETELY happy with it. 🤙🏼

@@ninthislandrc We will continue to work hard! The next generation of products will definitely not disappoint everyone!

You can always just skip using the gear cover...it's not a necessity. For bashers, it's understandable...but, if you look at the majority of speedrun vehicles, you almost never see a gear cover. I initially modded mine, but that was only due to the battery tray I installed...and, was well before the Rlaarlo upgrade parts arrived. As for the wheels, when running the Rlaarlo tires, I'll be mounting them to Tamiya TC wheels. They're strong, durable, have the same offset (0 offset) as the Rlaarlo wheels...and, most importantly, they are readily available multiple sources in the US. However, in addition to running the stock tires, I will also be running Xceed foam tires on carbon wheels. I've ordered a few different shores in 26mm & 30mm widths. 🤙🏼

@@ninthislandrc I just used a dremel tool and removed a bunch off the cover but they should sell one that fits .As for the rims I have alot of the wltoys rims with no tire left. The temp is to hot here to 90 c +.

@@benabnjm4828 Agreed on the pre-modded cover, as I am certain there will be mashers who would like to use the adjustable motor mount. As for wheels/tires, a certain package, containing a bunch of Xceed foam tires on carbon wheels, just got delivered...woo-hoo. Now, all I need is cooler temps outside. 🤙🏼

Thank you for supporting RLAARLO! So sorry for waiting so long! We are now back to normal for 48 hours to ship accessories!

As soon as it cools down, I will. Anything higher than...say...95 is probably too warm. Even 90 can be pushing it. Yesterday, as the sun was coming up, it was still 87. THAT'S how "warm" it is...lol 🤙🏼

@@ninthislandrc I feel ya… it was 80 here at 4am and got up to 105… 115 is to much for me though…. Nope!

@@BNVRC I'd get up extra-early, but the street I run on...the street that's 'dead' of traffic the majority of the day...is heavily driven on between 5-8am (and 4-7pm). Mostly personnel driving to/from the Air Force Base, and people going to/from work (especially casino workers). I know of a better place to run, with less traffic almost all the time...a place I'll definitely be using if I ever get above 125mph...but, it's even hotter there, plus it's an hour's drive.

@@BNVRC One 'plus' about 115 in Vegas, as opposed to 115 anywhere in the South, or East Coast, is the lack of humidity. Right now, our humidity tends to max out around 8-10% (early/mid-August, through mid-September, is another story...that's monsoon season: rain, high-speed winds, and humidity around 60-70%). As I used to tell people in the SF Bay Area, before moving to Vegas, "I can breath easier in 105-110 degree weather in Las Vegas, than I can 85 degree weather in the Bay Area." Today's (7/9) forcast 'high' is the "coolest" in two weeks...only 104...then it starts going back up again, hitting 113-115 over next weekend. Welcome to living in the desert...lol

Since the posting of this video, several changes...GOOD changes...have been made within Rlaarlo. They've hired more people for the shipping department, increasing their ability of getting orders shipped faster (and, as of yesterday, a message went out that all AK-917 orders had shipped)...and, they've hired more people (but, they do still need more) into their customer service department, allowing for faster replies. As for the parts, themselves, all, so far (with the exception of the original run of turnbuckles), are of extremely good quality. Regarding those turnbuckles, the original batch turned out to have a serious problem (as several have discovered) - they 'rushed' the hardening process of the steel, by using a higher temp (and less time), which did make the steel harder...but, also made it more brittle. Personally, I really LUV this car...and, I WILL be building up a second (from a CF roller). Unfortunately, I haven't been able to run mine since I started the mods. I received, and installed, the upgrade parts...and, since then, I've been quite busy with my job, and the weather isn't cooperating (by 'cooperating', I mean over 100 degree temps).

Honestly, haven't got the slightest clue. It is possible that none of the Dumbo RC receivers having the other features they required (ie. the inputs for the lights) had gyro. They certainly weren't about to go work a stand-along gyro plugged into the Rx (additional cost). Thankfully, for those wanting to stick with the provided Tx & Rx, there are plenty of gyro choices...or, you can do what most do, which is to switch to a different Tx & Rx. 🤙🏼

The RX28SE & RX28SE are two completely different chassis. Just be aware of that, as very little is shared between the two. 🤙🏼

Those were loaned to use by the drift racing ground (from Redwood City, CA) that was next to us. On the first day, there was the RCP track. Unfortunately, the wind tried to carry it away like the tornado in "The Wizard of Oz". So, the track was packed up...and the group next to us let us use some of their unused barriers.

@@ninthislandrc ok, cool. Yeah, wind is kind of a deal breaker. Me and a few buddies of mine have some asphalt modifieds. Absolutely love them!👍

@@rolexdpracer They so look like a lot of fun. Personally, I don't have one...yet...but I probably will before the end of the year. Our group only recently added 1RC vehicles to the 'program', as we're primarily Mini-Z.

@@ninthislandrc Mini-Zs are cool too. Love how scale the bodies are.

Thanks. Mahalo. 🤙🏼

Thanks. Just doing whatever I can to try and help others. Everyone is always welcome to use my ideas, modify them even further, or come up with their own. One of the things that makes the RC hobby great is that everyone (ok, almost everyone...lol) is willing to help others. I've even seen them racers helping people on 'competing' teams. 🤙🏼

Yea same ordered mine day of release not turned up yet but parts I ordered a few weeks ago have 😂

@@Nathan-qt2zi Are you referring to having ordered the adjustable motor mount, or the car. Have you checked your account, to see what the order status (fulfilled, or unfulfilled) is? Have you emailed them? If so, have you tried messaging them via FB Messenger? In other words, contact them through every possible method. At least one of them is guaranteed to get a reply (even if said reply takes up to a couple weeks). And, yes, I do know that, since the release of the AK-917, customer service replies have been taking excessively-long amounts of time (while my initial contact received a reply in 4 days, the follow-up reply took almost a month)...but, having hired more people, they are getting better, and replies are coming in sooner.

@ninthislandrc yea not too worried, I will email them next week and see if I get a response. Already got the car, and it's awesome. It made me put my infraction away for a bit

@@Nathan-qt2zi Hi you got parts but no car I ordered in the first 500 got the car may 4 but still no parts.

You will...just, try not to crash it.

Definitely "worth learning".

Thanks. Maybe with this mood, you'll crash less often? Just kidding. 🤙🏼

So, you're admitting you can be "bought". Such a shame. My dignity, as well as my honesty, can NOT be bought. I have over 40 years experience in customer service related fields, so I definitely understand what the words "customer service" means...and, the fact that Rlaarlo is making an effort to improve everything proves that there is no deception, and they are trying to provide better customer service. Let me tell you a couple of quick stories about 3 different companies that are no longer around. On one hand, there was Circuit City & Fry's Electronics. Both were notorious for having incredibly bad customer service. In my over 50 years, they are the only two stores I can think of where, when customers walked in, sales people walked in the opposite direction. Honestly, is amazing that they were in business for as long as they were. Thankfully, both are now gone. On the other hand, there was Soup Plantation/Sweet Tomatoes. Originally, both started out as separate businesses, but they eventually merged. When each started, they had problems but, they worked to improve those problems, and customers gave them the opportunity to do so. After they merged, new problems came. Again, they worked hard to overcome them...and, again, customers gave them the opportunity to do so. Move forward to early 2020, and the start of the COVID-19 pandemic. Because of lies propagated during the pandemic, combined with the false belief that such business types would no longer prosper, That is why they chose to permanently shut down. The point is, "public perception" can play a huge part in something like this...when people propagate lies, and others continue to propel them forward, creating a downhill snowball effect, it is, in the end, those people who caused the demise, and not anything that the company had done wrong. In other words, give Rlaarlo the opportunity...AND the time...to work on correcting the problems. Of course, it all honesty, I also believe that a big part of this...the lies being propagated...has to do with the fact that this is a Chinese company. If this were an American company, I am 99.9% certain that almost all people would be saying to "give them a chance". I am equally certain that very few, IF any, would actually admit that such is pay off why they are bashing Rlaarlo...they will claim that had nothing to do with it (which, in my opinion, only makes me think of those individuals as cowards). Now, I am NOT saying that everyone bashing Rlaarlo is doing so because it's a Chinese company...but, I am certain that a good percentage are.

@@ninthislandrc you lost me about the 3rd paragraph. For someone who knows people with 40 years experience you sure never learned sarcasm. There is no price on my dignity, just to be clear.

@@xXB.FunkXx Did someone who claims to have read to the third paragraph, it looks to me like you didn't make it past the third sentence. I didn't say I 'knew' people with 40 years experience...I said I HAVE 40 years experience. As for sarcasm, I get it extremely well. My comment was equally sarcastic...which you, obviously, didn't get. As I often tell people, "There are only two things I am seriously serious about in life - food, and my sense of humor." 🤙🏼

Ya third sentence, that's what I meant.

Incorrect. First, they didn't 'lie' about the ship dates. They estimated what they thought the "ship by" date would be...but, during the time top-tier KZbinrs who had received pre-production units were testing them, problems were discovered, and Rlaarlo was working on fixing those problems before shipping production units. What would you rather have - a product worth known problems that weren't fixed, or a product that gets slightly delayed (by only 1 week, I might add) because the known problems are being fixed before products ship? If you answer the second option, you're being honest...and, of your answer the first, well, we all know. Second, they DID post a letter (if I recall correctly, it was on April 21, the day after the originally estimated "ship by" date)...and, more importantly, they started in that letter exactly the reasons for the delay. Before continuing to spew forth your 'untruths', I would recommend first researching the truth (which you, obviously, didn't do). It's lies like these that not only propagate further lies, but also causes others to not consider the AK-917, never getting the chance to find out what a truly incredible vehicle it is. Those who continue saying it's 'bad' are no different than the children who say they don't like something, even though they NEVER tried what they're claiming to not like...they're just basing their decision on the false words of others (others who also have not tried). As I've said before, yes, Rlaarlo made mistakes...MANY mistakes...in the beginning. Their shipping department was WAY understaffed, as they didn't expect the amount of interest this vehicle actually attracted. Likewise, their customer service department was also way understaffed (which would be the ACTUAL reason for emails now getting replied to). But, they ARE working hard to increase staffing in these areas. The PROOF of that can be seen in the increase of shipping orders, as well as the increase of replying to emails & messages. Are the problems 100% solved? No...and, in my opinion, they've still got quite a ways to go before they are truly "up to speed". But, they ARE getting there...and, THAT is what's most important. So what if they started shipping a week later than 'promised'. So what if orders are taking longer to shop then expected. So what if there's a few minor mistakes in orders that are shipped. There is not a single company that has ever existed that was 100% perfect. We are human, companies are run by humans, humans make mistakes, humans learn from the mistakes they've made, and we move forward. To believe otherwise is to live in one's own "personal fantasyland".