Thanks. Keep in mind, they act as a pivot point during normal operation....so they don't actually move much, if at all....normally. They need to be able to slide a bit for the self centering feature as the shoe material wears. The hydraulics can put a huge amount a force on them, so I would suspect that they will move under load. The adjuster is only going to turn a click or two....now and then...not every time the brakes are activated...so the amount the slider would have to move to compensate for the longer adjuster would be very, very small. If the sliding was to be completely eliminated, I think the brakes would still work just fine, but as the shoe material wears, it wouldn't wear evenly or be quite as effective during braking. But, that's going to be over a lot of miles. Putting a bit of grease on the contact points might help. I think the material they're made from bronze or a harder brass(I'd have to look at some up close again...been 9yrs since this vid)....so they shouldn't rust to the backing plate. If you look at 1:30(exactly), you'll see that the screwdriver actually scarred the metal clip quite a bit...more than I think it would have had the clip been steel. The grease might collect/hold brake dust and cause a "wheel chock" type of issue. Those are my thoughts.....whether I'm right or not is anyone's guess. LOL -Mike

You're more than welcome. I hope it helps you. :)

Thanks buddy :)

Thanks! :) -Mike

Awesome! I'm happy to hear that. It certainly makes it worth the time/effort to do the video. :) -Mike

Yep. Very good info. However, these were on a 521 and it was the norm to NOT have those threaded jack bolt holes. I use those holes anytime I can. Typically, they've been M8 threads....couldn't sweat to them being 1.25 or 1.5 pitch. I used to keep a couple of high grade M8 bolts with my brake tools for just that use. :)

Thanks :) It's been awhile. lol

Yes. The spring is actually bi-metal and must be in contact with the hot water in the engine block. As the temp goes up, the spring distorts and opens and allows water to flow. If your thermostat has an air bleed feature, it needs to be up. -Mike

...but I can still give mustache rides ;)

Wow! Eddie! Long time to see. :) Are you referring to cutting the inserts to length? I've actually got them all cut. It worked out to be more easily done than I thought it would be. I did shoot some vid and hopefully, it will get edited fairly soon. Even though I have more time on my hands, there's still not enough to do everything that's on my plate right now. LOL I also cover the hub/rotor in the next vid....I think. I drilled the new bolt pattern with a 7/16" drill....for the 7/16-20 studs, so there's very little play. I think it will be okay, but I may be trying to convince myself so I can avoid having to make the little centering rings to go between the rotor center bore and the hub nose. Thanks for the input!! It's good to see you on here again. :)

Thanks! I think I've more time trying to make up my mind on which way to go than I have actually working on it. LOL But, I think I've wanted to do it in aluminum since even before I got the car. I wanted to create the disc brakes for it while my buddy still owned it. I have the rotors/calipers for the rear, I'm just not sure if I'll get to them soon or wait until later. We'll see.

Thanks Chuck! :)

Thanks.....but I don't have to use this method anymore....figured out why here..... kzbin.info/www/bejne/eXPIlKd7Z7tomrM ....venting and more power. :) -Mike

Thanks!! :)

Thanks! Yep....it's been a minute!! .....or over 7yrs...?? It's been idle for the last 20mo or so. As of yesterday morning, I'm officially retired...so I guess I have a bit more time to play with it. :)

Thanks again buddy!

Thanks buddy. :) ....covering one eye just for you :)

Thanks. It's been a minute since I've actively done any of this. :) Bit more time on my hands these days. :)

That's great to hear that it helped someone!! That was the point of sharing the info. :) -Mike

Thanks!! :)

Thank you very much. I appreciate that! :) -Mike

Thanks! The manuals are on the same site. www.bluehandsvideo.com/manuals.html

www.bluehandsvideo.com/5-lug-swap-nissan-d21-hardbody.html

@@bluehandsvideo awesome info thank you

@@samwhite1345 You're more than welcome. If you can't find a local machinist to do the work, try this guy.... instagram.com/kielbasaind/

@@bluehandsvideo I'll check him out for sure

​@@bluehandsvideofrom what your video says hardbody hubs should work no problem right?

That's a good idea since all of these logs are pretty close to the same length. Thanks.

Thanks! I appreciate that. :)

Absolutely!! I think I have 5 of them....3 of them are tactical black. 😊

Thanks! :) It's been awhile. I wanted to do a quick simple one with the new editor and it still took me almost 3hrs on YT trying to figure it out. :( If I wait too long, I'll forget it all again. lol

That's awesome! I'm very happy to hear that. :) -Mike

top hat? On the shock? Proshocks ASB series ASB/SR3AU (satin), ASB/SR3AUP(polished), 3" stroke, 8.5" compressed, 11.5" extended, 10.5" ride height, 7-8" tall springs. www.afcodynapro.com/PROSHOCKS/1827310179

I shut the shop down over a year and a half ago...sorry. More info here.... www.bluehandsvideo.com/5-lug-swap-nissan-d21-hardbody.html

I use bungees on the canopy, but with some of the heavier winds around here, I would not trust them to hold the canopy. If the legs go out at a slight angle and you set the anchors with them, they will triangulate the force and help to keep it from swaying. Granted, I still get swaying, but not nearly as bad when they're not at an angle. I've thought about just anchoring the pads at the base of the legs, but that would allow the frame to sway A LOT more. I'm afraid the "coat hanger" effect would cause the legs to break way sooner. That effect is actually metal hardening....when you bend a coat hanger back and forth, it eventually work hardens and breaks. Almost any metal will do that if the conditions are right. I've also strapped the horizontal bars together where two canopies are really close together. It means the valance doesn't sit right, so if the legs are close, I can strap those instead. Two canopies tied together like that get pretty sturdy. Most bungees seem to die pretty quickly in the sun. The ratchet straps fade, but I've never had one fail like a bungee. The canopies act like giant sails in the win. In a medium to strong wind, it can lift those concrete blocks off the ground. They're not cheap, but I use Penetrator Earth Anchors for soft and hard dirt these days. I can drive them in with my cordless impact and remove them just as easily.

Loved Sam!!!!

pic or vid of what you're fighting with? Worse case, you can use a cutoff wheel in a dremel. Get close, but don't cut into the shaft it's on....then use a cold chisel in the cut to break the race.

@@bluehandsvideo i actually just bought a dremmel an cold chisel so i should be able to get it off

yep....been pointed out many times....I even have that as a note in the description box. lol Seems it was obvious to everyone by me. :)

Some guys used them for that. I shut down over a year ago. I tried to find some else to take over making them, but didn't.

yes. I needed to modify the post processor so that it would zero the Y axis each time it went to a different tool/position. If you only use one tool, you can zero Y manually and then do your normal tool setting for X and Z. I did this about 7 years ago and don't recall many of the details. I did answer a bunch of questions in the comments, so you might go through those for more info. This play list doesn't show up when I look at my "playlist" list in YT, but I found the link below and it seems to work.... kzbin.info/aero/PLAUFP46xkHEwkWfVtcv_SuOUngBM-Drjj You'll find more videos if you search mill turning on google. I'm far from being the only person that's done this.

I shut the shop down over a year ago. Machining them on a lathe is definitely the best way, but you can grind the area down with an angle grinder. It's a lot easier if you remove the studs first.

Think you, I wish that I could get them done and I would know that they were done right, but think you for the info

Please could I get the detail numbers B/F side that I need them machine to, if so think you for your help again!!!!

@@scottiegodette8881 here's the info....be sure to check it over carefully. www.bluehandsvideo.com/5-lug-swap-nissan-d21-hardbody.html

@bluehandsvideo think very very much

Yes, the inner dia shrinks when you press the bushings in. I know a guy that had a shop install his bushings and they didn't know about the honing.....he could barely turn the steering wheel they were so tight. The ID can be reamed, but I'm not a fan of reaming. I've also tried using a brake cylinder hone, but it's really hard to get the two inline. If you can't find a local shop with a Sunnen hone, you might google Don's and see if they would let you mail them.

@@bluehandsvideo thanks a ton for the info! Guess I'll have to get it figured out, maybe even with Don's help!

@@mrbookends You can search my channel a bit....I've posted tons of king pin videos over the years....too many to watch, but you may find some useful info in them. :)

If the 65 was smaller than the race, how did it gouge the hub? Do you have a cone that it a bit too big for the race? I wonder if you could put a bolt through the center and then spin it in a drill....a drill press would be better.....lathe better still. Then maybe use a file to decrease the diameter down to what will work...?? What's the bearing number you're trying to install? You should be able to use some emery cloth to carefully sand down any "rise" in the surface around the gouge. It's hard to come up with ideas for you without having anything to look at. If you take a short video showing the issue, you can post it to your channel, then come back here and leave a link. -Mike

You're more than welcome. :) -Mike

You're more than welcome. I'm happy to hear that. Thanks!! :) -Mike

That's great to hear! :)

Happy to hear that. You're more than welcome. :) -Mike

sorry, no. You can find them in the scrapyard or on ebay. I had a machinist to send people to, but his shop got torched by some punk. The specs and info are on my site....for now....some in the text....some in the pics and vids, so check it all out. www.bluehandsvideo.com/5-lug-swap-nissan-d21-hardbody.html

Thank you! I'm happy to hear that it's helped. :) -Mike

Beware the rebuilt boxes often get new seals and paint and sent right back out without new gears

@@evanwest1929 Thanks for the warning!

@@evanwest1929 Rebuilt parts, in general, have seemed to go downhill.

I'm happy to hear that!! Did you also find the one on how to pack grease in the new bearings? Was it throwing the caps because the bearings were getting too hot?

The UCA isn't subjected to the same loads as the LCA, so I'm not sure. If it's purely a show car and not driven on the road, but you can pretty much do what you want. I've seen a lot of LCAs created from laser cut plates that are then welded together. I've never actually worked with steel billet. My machines would take forever to whittle an LCA out of it. Do you have any info/pics of the project online?

@@bluehandsvideo thanks for the reply, we were able to procure a stock for single piece construction, it is an electric van under 2ton, simple A arm design

@@Draig005 That's great....I'm happy to hear you got something that will work. :) Mike

@@bluehandsvideo thank you very much, will update once we are done with the work.

@@Draig005 Cool! I look forward to it. :)