kzbin.info/www/bejne/qpvFcq2Ar7qIaNksi=3ETCEhMS9TuWfhoT

When you swap in the VTD center differential, it's full-time-AWD by design. We don't have fancy diff like the one found on say a USDM Toyota Sequoia, where it can be RWD, AWD Hi/Lo, 4WD Hi/Lo. The FWD fuse was intended for the multiplate clutch AWD system only. That is a FWD system that uses a transfer clutch to drive the rear wheels. When I have the VTD center diff swapped in, I use the FWD fuse to disable the factory transfer clutch solenoid. This is because I don't have the VTD TCU. A DTC code will pop up if I don't use the FWD fuse. That code reads that there is a difference in front/rear wheel speeds due to the different teeth count where the sensor picks up on the output shaft of the VTD diff. The multiplate transfer clutch AWD reads the teeth count on the park gear.

The split is 45:55. It is just that without the clutch pack locked, the planetary gear center diff just functions like an open diff. If the front wheel lift, it will spin, and likewise if a rear wheel lifted. When I go off the road with the welded rear diff, the front wheel often spins first when I don't have the center diff locked. That's because the front diff is still an open diff and it is more prone to spin whereas the rear is a welded diff. The rear is less likely to spin because BOTH needs to spin. The only other times where one would think that the rear should ALWAYS have more torque based off the torque split are AWD systems where it is REAR drive with a clutchpack or coupler that drives the front. That's a system that found in the Nissan GTR AWD, Hyundai Genesis AWD, and other systems that can disable AWD and become RWD only. It's those systems that one would think when looking at "wheel spin" will say they can see the torque split.

Correct, that too. Lol I still have a brand new VTD clutch pack, gasket, & tailshaft seal sitting on the shelf for the next VTD conversion.

@@FuJiNF Thank you for your offer, I already have my VTD but the only thing I will like to know is the 2 shim rings that go in the back. How necessary are both of them? I have the 0.5 one, the 0.2 was damaged.

@@betto9gdl that'll determine how well the gears of the tailshaft meshes with the planetary gears. If it is within the window, no big deal. The only time they really rotate is when the rears or fonts are really spinning. At that point the clutch pack would have engaged if you have the TCU. No TCU and no switch to lock it and the gears will just spin when you over power the tires. If normal driving, the whole center diff rotates as one. When you give throttle, torque load pushes the VTD diff towards the rear due to the angle of the gears. So that shim thickness keeps the teeth meshed together.

@@FuJiNF Thanks!

Around 750whp with a 72mm Pulsar turbo on e85. Sti 6spd with 07-17 gearing. Upgraded rear axles/ hubs, R180 diff, built motor.

@@FuJiNF Drop that in the description, bruv.

You not shifting fast as this if you just tugging it softly 🤷🏻‍♂️

wrx trans suck but sti ones are stronger

We don't have that enabled. Just shift fast.

You find the parts numbers?

When i was playing with turning on/off the fog lights to switch colors, one would at times not change then i get the one yellow, one white. I simply just turn off the headlights and they will reset when i turn the headlights back on. I'll definitely keep an eye for the color change though. I typically look at the reflection on other vehicles to see if my lights are working, dead or which color on the fog lights.

@@FuJiNF sounds good dude. Having more than one kelvin lights is a bit much for an led bulb. Hopefully the anti flickers, or resistors will help prevent that.

Stock TCU, fuse in FWD slot. Switch to engage clutch pack on demand. Cycle the ignition to get rid of flashing AT TEMP light after playing.

@@FuJiNF Awesome thanx, do u know Vtd supported TCU can make F50/R50 after VTD placement on slippery conditions? ( without FWD fuse in) or do i need fwd fuse even if i install vtd supported tcu? I wanna run smoothly after swap. Like the original vtd distribution.

@@umutooo the VTD TCU will just apply lock when it engages, which just makes it 50:50. Driving around town with the VTD without lockup drives fine in snow. It's just when you get in deep stuff is when you'd get front wheel spin or rear depending which corner digs into the snow first. Usually in the deep stuff i just lock it ahead of time if i feel i need to.

​@@FuJiNF Thanx bro, i was stuck, but it's clear now. Waiting for your new videos.

The brakes are holding them in place.

Direct swap on the transmission. You'd have to figure out the lockup switch to engage the clutch pack. Find the wire for your year, put a switch on the wire. Some people have gotten creative to adding resistors so to not throw a trouble code from the tranny. I know what code it's throwing so i don't mind the flashing ATF light. I just cycle the ignition key off/on after the obstacles.

At this time it was the TD06H 25G stock location. Too slow for spoolup vs power. Better to just go rotated.

Yes, 2016

@@FuJiNF they are nice, i also got an 16 sti

Found it. 25 nm or 18.1 ft-lb. In case anyone is wondering. Thanks again for the excellent video!

Tires definitely make the difference. Frozen/ ice surfaces puts up challenges. The welded diff performs as it is intended. Keeps both Tires driven in off pavement driving.

Let me know how come this didn't send power to the other side kzbin.info/www/bejne/iF6al4yposlqntE

That would be the theory, but on my SG9 forester, when i'm stuck, the wheel which is in the air is always spinning.

@@ophoto.peterorban right! I wished people would take the time to understand differentials/ lockers/ spools or welded diffs. This "symmetrical AWD" is marketing.

Welded diff is dumb? Yes, in most circumstances. Especially on a normal street cars... "three wheels the one in the air would receive zero power and not even move and the power from that wheel would be transferred to the ones with traction..." No, that's not how things work. Open differential always send power to the wheel has less traction, despite the system is symmetrical or not. Like FuJiNF said, spend some time to learn how differential work...

Modern Subarus often have open front and rear diffs. Torque is vectored by use of the Traction Control System, which applies brake to spinning wheels, forcing torque to wheels with more traction. Some problems with this are hillclimbs and deep mud/snow, where braking any wheels can cause a loss of momentum, and/or the brakes overpowering the engine. Ways to overcome this include using an LSD/locker or several, or welding a diff or several.

These are Bridgestone Blizzaks. Sticky deep snow in the lake, 44 degrees air temp. Let me know how you do!

This was before the torqLocker was available. I installed welded center and rear differentials.

@@FuJiNF awesome! How does it handle on the streets?

@@tarzaan2603 it has the typical binding on the dry roads when turning, nothing new. In snow driving, it has A LOT of traction because you have front and rear tires being forced to spin the same. The one front that does over spin if overpowered will but aside from that, you can power oversteer very well. Drifts are smooth and predictable. You can straighten back from extreme angle drifts, very stable in throttle transitions with controlling oversteer/ understeer. It'll do donuts on the dry very easy. You have to either be on the throttle, or off when in a turn. This is the characteristics of a welded rear diff. You can't drive it nice because the way the car feels. Coasting through a turn in neutral and you'll get the inside for scrubbing and the car rocks and jumps. Factory suspension bushings moving around and that allows movement. You learn to drive it a certain way. You can't be gentle & soft. Definitely a fun setup for performance driving and moderate off road driving where diagonal spins happen often.