I am not sure since I don't deal with 50's Rockolas. I would question whether there EVEN is a STEPPER for a 1462 since it is only a 50 selection, 25 record machine. Most steppers and wallboxes were designed for 120 selection and 200 selection jukeboxes. So that would be my first question.......

@@williamweisel2176 Hi William, The Rockola would have come with a #1732 Stepper to be used with the #1548 wall box if was in like a commercial setting like a restaurant, bar or something like that back in the 50's, and the #1548 wall box was a 50-selection wall box. We are just having trouble finding the stepper for the #1548 wall box. We have located the mentioned wall box for sale but without the stepper the wall box is no good. Thanks

@ Thanks for clarifying this. I learned something

That clicking sound is a poorly lubricated clutch assembly that is not shifting smoothly from transfer to scan mode. If you have the capability of removing the entire mech, then use a heat gun CAREFULLY to the back of the clutch and the treadle I mentioned, and do not heat any rubber or plastic elements or wiring. You may be able to do this with the mech still in place but moved all the way over to the left so you can see the clutch. I believe the pricing unit on the left side will need to be removed to allow access. Lubricate this area liberally. Then, if problem persists, yes, you will need to remove the clutch assembly as described on many videos. I usually, like with the Rockola mechs, can get a fix with lubrication and a heat gun. You may have to manually turn the mech motor shaft with power off and trip the trip solenoid by hand and observe the clutch shift from transfer to scan and from transfer to play to satisfy yourself that the clutch is moving freely.

@@williamweisel2176 ok so i managed to make it work ! and now it works all good. I still have two issues, the first one is that when i plug it into the wall, i have a huge BOOM that comes from it. So i dont know if it's the solenoids of the selections but the BOOM is quite scary compared to my others jukeboxes. And the second one is that the amplifier gives a poor sound quality (i will replace the capacitors and check the output transistors as you did) but do you have any clue for BOOM problem ?

@@williamweisel2176 hello, thank you so much for your help, really precise. I will look at it. Today i took off the mechanism and put some oil, the selections worked fine and the sound is coming out. However when i put everything back in place, the jukebox worked but after landing to the far left of the rack near the pricing unit, the mechanism is stuck and the motor is no longer turning so i will continue tomorrow to investigate. These machines are far better to understand than the rockola because of less electronics (I fixed this, the screws that attach the mechanism to the jukebow were too tighten and where blocking the mechanism from moving

@@perssonne1 Certainly if your amp has never been serviced, it is time to do the above replacements and checks. Also be sure your amp is plugged into the correct plug on the bottom of the machine. Don't plug it in to the service switch like I did once. Use on of the four other plugs provided, not the separate plug for servicing.

Should not be necessary to remove the popularity meter. Can remove the two hex screws that are accessed just to the right front of the turn table platter where the cable to the turn table motor goes. Then the control box should drop down. Remove the front door of the jukebox and reach under.....remove the four connectors that attach to the control box. The reverse relay is the relay you would be concerned about. If shorted, you won't reject and may be blowing the circuit breaker. Or it could open. You can test with an ohmmeter but there is a resistor across it. Join the Rockola Jukebox Club on FB and post further questions as it is easier for me and others to send a video or similar to supplement this info.

I would start with sequence 2 in the manual.......which shows that K6 relay (and K7) are both in the circuit. Open the selection control box and reseat the K 6 relay and be sure it is secure). For B sides, K6 does not actuate but its contacts still have to be clean so you may have to do this. Or swap K6 and K7. But more likely, the problem will be in the A/B switch assembly underneath which requires the "alternating dawg" to shift "lanes" underneath and toggle the shifter up and down on the A/B switch.....this is what sends power to the right sided read out circuit board. The alternating dawg often gets gummed up and won't move between the tracts. If this is the case, you need to remove the metal back door and access this dawg. It can be loosened and then cleaned and reseated. If this doesn't solve the problem, then I will have to show you how to trace wires. It goes without saying that all the connections on the A/B switch should be reseated/cleaned as well as the molex connector on the bottom of the machine that goes to the pin drum.

@@williamweisel2176 Hello William, first of all thanks for your prompt response.... very appreciated :-) I tried the easiest check switching K6 and K7 cleaning also their contacts, but the problem still persists. Let me modify the message... I just discovered that on Mech Power connector I have NO VOLTAGE at all between 4 and 6 molex pins (it should be -30VDC). All the others voltages mentioned in your video are fine, but I have "0" between 4 and 6. Could it be the cause of my problem? Thanks again for any suggestions. Alberto.

@@albertocroci6107 No. There will be no voltage on pin 6 of the red molex at rest referenced to ground pin 4. Pin 6 only gets power when the play control relay kicks in. Pin 1 WILL have -33VDC referenced to ground pin 4 at rest. If your scan switch starts the magazine motor, then you have the voltage you need. I think your problem is underneath with the A/B switch. Scan your magazine and watch the A/B switch to see if it is toggling back and forth.....or not. This is the information we will need to know.

@@williamweisel2176 you're right!!! it was something related to the A-B switch... it always remained active because the alternating dog did not jump from one track to the other. In any case it works now... thanks a lot for this help. Very helpful! Best Regards and happy new year 🙂

Best to reply (and join) to the Facebook Rockola Jukebox Club group.......ask your question and you will get multiple responses.

I did find a bad heat sink transistor- Q7 and have ordered another one

Best practice is to replace BOTH heat sink (or driver board) transistors on the same channel if one is found to be shorted. As for your fuse holders, check for shorts AND open sockets on both those bakelite plugs. One thing I omitted in the video is to consider Q9, the supply board transistor, as a cause of noise that varies with the volume......not as common as the other causes of noise I mentioned but easy to replace if fixing the other possible causes doesn't resolve the noise. Best wishes David

@@williamweisel2176 I replaced all four heat sink transistors and NO blown fuses this time! Thanks to your video!! Now R44 on the cap board started smoking! It measured 17k instead of 22 ohms so I have those ordered. All other components on the board is ok and I just miss read the value when I was checking them. Thanks to this video and you again for helping so much. If I cant get it fixed I am sending it to you!

I generally check and replace all components before plugging in the amp........but it sounds like you did that. This amp is modular and fixable and had no output transformers in it......

I don't purchase any kits. The 4 uf 370 volt motor run capacitor in the auto speed unit can be purchased on eBay. Multiple vendors. I purchased the Titan Pro 370. For the other caps, Digikey, Mouser, among others are fine. Or eBAy.

thanks for the insight on the amp design. I do not have an electronics background. I can read schematics and test components but am clueless if asked to modify or design circuits. Fortunately, fixing these does not require much of the latter talents. I did find that the bias pots on the TSA 7 amp developed some dead spots which caused my current limiting bulb to light up when testing these. My electronics guru soldered a 50 ohm resistor across both pot leads which limited this effect. I must say that therein lies the challenge here as with each passing year, more components that were previously bulletproof are showing up faulty for the first time. Can't just replace all the electrolytics and expect your amp to work fine in 2024.

Glad it was helpful!

thank you Mike. Mid 60's Seeburgs can be fixed. It will take me awhile to come up to speed but my brother Tom is a good resource for these.

You're right. Seeburg repair is a paygrade up from Rockola repair. But this era looks fixable to me. Plus there are so many more of them in the Pittsburgh area than Rockolas.

I'm pretty sure the magazine motor for the 440 has two more wires (4 total) because it has an electromagnet, not a permanent magnet. I don't have a 440 here to look at. Later motors had permanent magnets and only two wires. Try one of the FB groups.....Rockola Jukebox Club. Join and then ask if anyone has one. Lots of scammers though. Mike Florio, Doug Wilderman, Randy Pimpler andRick Murray are all reliable parts suppliers. All on FB

Aaaahhh. I don't have a 440 here or a 440 manual. What I would do is lift the lid and manually flick a pin up on the right round pin bank to the far right. That should do the work of the wobble plate solenoid and should close the wobble plate switch. If your read out arm and magazine then start, it is possible your wobble plate solenoid failed. If nothing happens when you flick (select) this pin manually, then you may have blown the 1.6 amp mech fuse. This as I recall is on the front of the power supply which I believe is on the bottom left of the jukebox cabinet. Check this fuse for continuity and replace if it reads open. If this is not helpful, then, yes, it get stickier........you will need to check the bronze control box under the mech and remove it. There is a magazine relay in there as I recall that could have gone bad. Check its continuity

You picked the one model Rockola that I have avoided because of the tube amp. So I have ZERO experience with a 441. If it is like the 437-440, then the likely suspects here are the keyboard and the write in (K3) and stop (K4) relays that are on the power supply on the bottom of the box, on the left. If you are able to access the power supply and clean the relay contacts on both these relays, do it. If no luck, then go to the keyboard with the jukebox powered OFF and exercise every letter and number button by pressing it in fifteen times since dirty keyboard contacts interrupt the signal needed in the selection process. In fact, the keyboard is the Achille's heel of these earlier Rockolas and sometimes you have to hardwire all the letter and number buttons since they are in series and if just one letter or number switch is not making a good contact, the selection process will be interrupted. If nothing good happens, I would join the Rockola Jukebox Club group on FB and post your problem so others with more experience with 441s can give their thoughts.

First thing to do is to go to the right side of the round pin drum and be sure EVERY pin is put back in the unselected position. Most likely one pin is in the selected position and that tells the magazine to keep searching for it. If you find this condition and correct it, the magazine should stop where it is supposed to stop in the home position (the gap). Then lift the lid and select 124 which should be a pin on top of your round pin bank. See if the write in arm stops at this pin location, see if the current limiting bulb flashes, and see if the write in hammer coil tries to hammer the pin or not. Then report back. You may have to join the Rockola Jukebox Club group on FB and post videos of your problem so I and others can try to help. Write in problems can be complex.

Are you referring to a 444 model? Failure to hammer the write in pin starts with the K4 write in relay. Have you reseated it and taken off the red cover to clean the contacts? If no, do this. Then leave the cover off when you put it back into its socket so you can see if it is actuating or not Then go and reseat the the selection molex on the front of the power supply and the credit unit. Then go to the credit unit. Open it up and clean the contacts of the ADR relay and the debit coil. Again leave it open so you can see if the selection impulse switch and debit coil work when you make a selection. Lastly, watch the wobble plate solenoid to be sure it is kicking in when the write in motor stops. Lots of possible causes of trouble here. Review sequences 9-11 in the manual. Reset the jumper plug on the front of the power supply as well. Then report back. We may have go thru the Rockola Jukebox Club group on FB to send each other videos. If you haven't joined this group, I would recommend it.

It would be easier to communicate on FB. Join the Rockola Jukebox Club group and post a video of what is wrong with your 454. Then we can respond with videos to try to help. Plus you will get more knowledgeable folks to chip in with their comments as well

@williamweisel2176 okay sir, btw it was user error for this problem...had the meter on vdc and not vac.

First thing to do is to reset the mechanism circuit breaker on the left front of the power supply on the inside back door. See if gripper motor will then bring record back to the rack. If not, you will need to manually turn the knob on the gripper motor by reaching underneath the mech. It will be tedious to turn the knob so many times but you must get the gripper bow back over the magazine until you hear the click of the microswitch #1 in the back. Then reset the mech circuit breaker again. See if machine works then. If it selects another record and the same thing happens when it is ready to return to the rack, you probably have a shorted reverse relay in the bronze control box that sits under the mech. Reseat all four of the plastic molex connectors that go to this box just in case it is a loose connection. If no loose connection, I would join the Rockola Jukebox Club group on FB and post a video of what is happening. I and others can then try to walk you thru this. I hope you have a service manual. If not, order one on line (eBay or Victory Glass)

@@williamweisel2176 Thanks William. After manually turning the knob on the gripper motor it was still the same. Then I discovered a earth strap had dropped down and made contact on some wiring connections, tied that back up, pressed the reset button and it is now back up and running. Who would have thought one wire would drop down and cause the issue!

best venue for your problem is to join the Rockola Jukebox Club group on FB and then post a video of what your jukebox is NOT doing right. I will respond as well as others. I don't check my You Tube messages that often and unless it is a straight forward easy fix, videos and multiple replies are often necessary

the read out arm is easily removed......take off the nut on the end of the bolt that secures the read out arm to the main shaft. Remove the bolt and pry off the arm. Check continuity of both coils. Should be around 30-50 ohms each. Then bend the wipers slightly to ensure good contact with the read out circuit board before reattaching arm. If still no non hit side selections, go underneath and watch the A/B switch as you scan the magazine. Be sure it is going up and down. If not you need to service the alternating dawg underneath. Also reseat the molex connector that goes from the A/B switch assembly over to the bronze control box and the round pin bank.

Depends on your area. In western Pa, I sell these refurbished working as they should with a 30 day warranty for $695. And, yes, they all sell. But if I ask more, they just languish on FB marketplace. Working condition covers a wide range.......was it recently serviced and amp refurbished? If so, try to get $800-900. If it hasn't been serviced for 20 years and just happens to work, then you won't get as much. These 70's jukeboxes are good machines but don't command big bucks. Don't take less than $500 if it works fine and all the glass pieces are good. If it is in a basement and needs hauled out by the buyer, subtract $100.

best to join the FB Rockola Jukebox Club group...then post your problem/maybe a short video. I and others will try to help you

Thanks!

thanks for the kind words. Technically videos aren't that great......just trying to illustrate common problems and solutions. I did mix up the K4 and K7 relay once or twice in this video. Will try to be more careful going forward. Hopefully viewers will realize my error.

@@williamweisel2176 To err is human, all good!

look for a transformer rated at 3 amps with a 24 VAC tap. Connect the two wires that supply the 24 VAC to a 6 amp or higher silicon full wave bridge rectifier. AC leads should be marked. The other two leads will give off DC, one positive and one negative. Use the DC leads to check the gripper and magazine motors in these jukes.......and the 24 VAC to check the write in motor. Contact me on FB Rockola groups for specific questions or better yet, join the Rockola Jukebox Collector group and ask specific questions to all. In my last video today, I mentioned a current limiting bulb which is a good idea to use when testing any unknown load, be it a motor or an amplifier or a power supply.

@@williamweisel2176 I have an idea- Why cant I connect to the 30 v output from the power supply and connect to the relays directly? then start back tracking from the relay with the 30 volt circuit to see where the issue might be?