Yes, I've still got it.

I replaced the chain around 30k miles but I really believe someone severely over tightened it. My Buell had close to 50k miles with no problems.

The dihedral angle is set by the spar caps in the center wing. The upper spar cap is slightly shorter than the lower one.

Very scientific reason I used the pull rivets on the ribs. I think they are more fun!. Seriously, the plans call out what type of rivet to use where. The nose and engine box along with the main spar web are solid for extra strength and in the few places you can't get a bucking bar to the back side they have you use a special stainless steel structural pull rivet. The ribs were optional on whether to use the 1/8" pull or 3/32" solid rivets. The solid rivets would definitely be less expensive but I've saved a lot of money by building from plans. Besides if a few bucks here and there were critical I probably wouldn't be building a plane at all. LOL

If it's a problem with the resistor in the key making contact then yes this should fix it.

Yes, I did build the ribs. I watched your 1500 hr video on your old UC. How many hours do you have on the new one?

Well sir i don't remember exactly but I believe it's around 200hrs

I wondered about that and I know the landing gear has to fitted before riveting the skins. I do have all the parts for the landing gear so I can go either way.

I did in this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y4S9qYiAmq-beNE around the 2 1/2 min mark.

Yes, with enough slack they will rub.

l'HO RIMEDIATO !!

I looked up the OEM numbers for the temp switch and Gen 1 and 2 are the same. I wonder if Trail Tech sent you the wrong sensor.

Very true.

Let me know if this answers your question. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pYCbnpaHr8SUgK8

Thank you!

Thank you!

I'm building an ultralight airplane and the flaring really strengthens the panels.

Did you message Maple Springs Farm through Ebay to see if he was going to get any more?

I messaged them about a week ago and they will have them in stock in the near future. They were just waiting on the part that the filter threads on to.

@@loganmcewen7423 That's good news. I hoped they hadn't stopped making them.

I was surprised by how much noise the stretched chain made. Here is the link to the follow up video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eZqznICeg71phJosi=EPk4k9wakZ2C_olg

Most likely the chain will fix it right up.

@@xpsgaragethanks for the reply. Believe it or not yesterday I took down the old chain and did the same “screwdriver test” you did, and noticed it was stretched even 1mm more than yours give or take, so definitely that’s the issue. The problem is, I could not get to unlock the nut on the left (main-shaft nut), it was way too tight or with red loctite on it. Tried with a 20” breaker bar and 1-1/8 standard socket, a deep socket may have been better though. Any suggestion? I cannot install the new chain w/o removing that…and I read on the manual that you cannot use impact guns on that nut as behind it you have the stator with the magnets and can damage them. Only thing I can think of is applying some heat? I am one stupid nut away from completing this and really hate to pay someone to do it.

Here is the install video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/h6nClJx8mcZsqacsi=L9bIe4q79t1nxdP1 I picked up the alternator kit from Steiner Tractor.

@@xpsgarage TY VERY MUCH SIR

I actually did watch that video but just haven't built the tool yet.

I adjusted the timing in this video but I still need to check it with a timing light the next time I have it running. kzbin.info/www/bejne/oHW8hKZpisljj6ssi=EkfgUZXva3dUyb2H

I changed out the plug wires here. kzbin.info/www/bejne/o5XMYYikitydZrcsi=BKHTrnLGnVRfEmWa

Yeah, don't try that again. I kind of like having you around.

Yes I knew it was to fix noise where the shaft was hitting the bolt I just didn't know if any of my noise was coming from that. It's good to know that I won't start getting that noise as I rack up the miles!

Here is a short video of how I did it. kzbin.info/www/bejne/apineKyjYtBqas0

I made a short video showing the changes. Another other questions just ask. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hJ-1onSoYslkoK8

@xpsgarage awesome man thank you! It's on my to do list this winter, those rubber trim pieces never last

I ended up going with the screws but I still don't think rivets would be bad either.

Hi, my name is Jason. You made a good choice with the H5 as they are beautiful aircraft. I would of built one myself but didn't want to have to deal with the FAA. Good luck with your build and converting all the dimensions to metric! 😁

True access to the instrument panel would be easier. I had planned to leave it fastened with clecoes until everything was done but I know just as soon as I put in the rivets I'd think of one more thing I wanted to change. I've been working on it this morning and I'm going ahead with screws and nut plates. Should have a video later today.

I remember seeing some of his videos about that. I don't remember if it was the new or old ultracruiser but it seems like he was having leaks in the tank at the welds. I welded up my own tank so I guess I should probably use screws. LOL

@@xpsgarage 🤣🤣🤣

Sheet metal can be a bit challenging at times. Are you planning to build both an ultra and the H5?

@xpsgarage I'm retired so eventually yes

It's still holding up well and sounding good.

Thanks for the reply. I've been looking at pics of Ultracruisers and the spacing is all over the place so I think it is personal preference. Several I have seen had the screws widely spaced so I think I will go with a 3" spacing. That will put the screws next to every other rivet. That would also let me go back and add more if needed while keeping everything lined up. I will probably also stick with screws since I already have the side rails drilled and tapped.

That would be cool.