The doohickey is the name of the part that holds the tensioner in place. All KLR650s have one from the factory. It appears that only the 1st gen doohickeys were prone to breaking so I wouldn't change that part on 2nd or 3rd gens. To me the extension spring is the problem. I've seen too many that have come apart and been chewed up to leave it stock. That's why I went with the torsion spring.

I could have and might put one on in the future.

On the 20k setting that would be 2.35k which is 2350 ohms. Out of the 15 possible resistors the C5 uses #8 is 2.37k and that's the one you want. When you add the K to the end that means times 1000 so 2350K would be 2,350,000 ohms.

Ahhhh ok. Thank you for explaining. ​@xpsgarage

I bought a pack of resistors off amazon and they have a 1 mil but not a 2 mil.

@@TJsVette Did you just check the resistors in the pack with your meter to find one that matches?

Good advice. The 3 stone hones do get a little excited if you stick it too deep.

Yep, didn't make any difference.

Are you going to post any videos of your Legal Eagle?

If the engine was a pusher it would give the old tractor a boost. LOL

Pressing the 5/6 gear on is my least favorite part. You want to put support right around the input shaft so it is supporting the adapter plate right on the other side of the bearing race. The bearing will hold the pressure fine as long as nothing is shock loaded. If you support it anywhere further out you would possible bust the adapter plate. Some of the gears press on just fine but I had one that was super tight. I ended up using a propane torch on the 5/6 gear to heat it up slightly as I was pressing it on. That helped. Good luck!

@@xpsgarage thank you.

@@xpsgarage where did you get that press? Mine is too short...

@@colemcmeans7809 It's a 20 ton from Harbor Freight. I used to have their 12 ton but the little bit of extra room on the 20 helps.

Me too. Hopefully won't be much longer.

You will have it completely apart to change the output shaft so should definitely upgrade some internals. I've got a build sheet for one I recently did so I can post it later today. I'm on the road right now and not at my computer.

My main parts suppliers are www.thegearbox.org/home.html & ampdistributing.com/collections/t56-6-speed-transmission. I usually do a full bearing kit if the trans is high mileage or the bearings show wear. If it's low mileage it might not need a fill bearing kit but you will need the bearing on the end of the main shaft that fits into the input shaft. It usually gets destroyed when removing it. If your trans is older with the paper lined synchronizers then you definitely need to upgrade to the carbon fiber versions. If it's already carbon fiber and shifting fine you might not need synchros. There are measurements in the service manual to check them. Most people always change the synchros but they are pricey and if they are still good I don't see the need. Put billet keys and new springs in all the gears along with bronze pads on the shift forks. If you have an aluminum 3-4 shift fork replace it with a steel version. Unless your 5-6 cluster gear is still a press fit on the main shaft when you disassemble it you will need a new cluster gear. If it pulls of the main shaft by hand do not reuse it. You will also need a snap ring kit and the seals for the trans. Good luck with the rebuild. Going with the C6 diff is definitely a great upgrade.

www.txdrivetrain.com/ is also a great parts supplier.

Thank you. I tried to make sure I knew what I was talking about.

@@xpsgarage you got it 100% correct. Only one slight thing I would add, so people could fully understand what happens. When the spring is compressed in by the top link, it actually moves a small lever inside the mechanism which bumps up the two arms “ temporarily “ to alleviate the dig in pressure from the implement being pulled. It is a very mechanical interaction, people sometimes think that some weird process takes place between springs/ pressure, etc. It basically boils down to a pin pushes temporarily on a lever which bumps up the two arms. Thank you.

@@Flowing23 Great information. Thanks!

That would make a great video!

@@xpsgarage indeed, I'm gonna be looking at doin it to my 1950 8n just to add a little extra to it's pull power rather than flathead V8 swap till I get another I mean why not also have a V8 8n too 🤣 I dare you ta do some research n come up with a supercharger for yers 🤠

Not really. I'm not using a supercharger and have no plans to in the future so pinning the balancer isn't really necessary.

@@xpsgarage I hear ya man! I pinned mine just in case my wife wakes up one day and lets me spend 6k on the A&A kit... I won't hold my breath lol

@@drewphillips3961 Good luck on getting the A&A lol!

Having your own runway would be so sweet! Building a 1/2 VW is definitely a lot of work and I hope it's worth it. I do still have the 447 for sale.

Your engine looks more like a real airplane engine than any half vw I’ve seen. The runway will be great when it gets some more grass on it. Half of it looks good the other half got some bare spots but I’ll replant in the spring. Would you be interested in a Rotax 503? If not I’m still interested in the 447. I’ve got an old Kolb FireStar 1 I’m rebuilding and I’m going to try to make a true ultralight out of it

The Kolbs are sweet. I probably should have got one of those since the folding wings would be so handy. I really don't have a need for a 503. Shoot me an offer on the 447.

@@xpsgarage I couldn’t tell on the video, is it electronic ignition or points?

I found a video that tells the 447 has got points. Sorry but I’m 70 yrs old and I spent my time adjusting points. My fingers are too fat and too old for that. Good luck with the Hummel. Man I sure did enjoy those 1/2 vw build videos and I got no desire to build one.

Early 90's if I remember right.

@@xpsgarage Thank you

Thanks!

It did have a head gasket leak but it was still going.

Good to hear that you fixed your quadrant. The next time I have the top lid off the tractor I'll make a video on what locks the draft lever in position. To switch to a voltmeter all you have to do is connect the 2 large wires from the amp gauge together then run a small wire from the junction over to the voltmeter. The ammeter carries all the current going back and forth to the battery so by connecting the wires you are just removing the ammeter from the circuit. The voltmeter doesn't carry any current so a small wire running to it is all that's needed.

It is a handy feature. When I was using the tractor as a kid I tried to figure out what it was for but since it didn't work right I never had much luck.

@@xpsgarage We had to convert the electrical system from a 6 v to a 8 volt system. The only other problem with the tractor was the calves pulling out the spark plug wires. The tractor shared the barn with the cows.

@@lanecazes Did the 8 volt setup work good? I remember Dad tried that at one point but it never seemed to work right.

@@xpsgarage actually it did. A relative who was a tractor mechanic did it for us. We couldn’t leave the start switch on accessory or in the on position without the tractor running for long… the 6 Volt condenser for the points would burn up. He kept the six volt starter, and distributor, and points. He changed out the condenser, coil, voltage regulator and alternator to 8 Volts. It ran like that for years.

?

Since it's not a normal combination I'm not really sure. I would guess around 34hp. Sorry for the slow reply.

@@xpsgarage thanks :)

The suspension, front and rear, is the 1200X stuff. The previous owner bought the kit from Harley and installed it. I also installed the new intake breather and tuned it to run right with the Powervision tuner.

The paint on the cylinders should hold up OK since it's for high heat. I've had good luck with it on the Harley engines. I think I will also wipe the paint off of the inside of the valve covers before starting it just to make sure.

Here are my main sources for parts. www.thegearbox.org/home.html ampdistributing.com/collections/t56-6-speed-transmission

Did you engage the parking brake before flipping the headlight switch?

kzbin.info/www/bejne/gGKxqKpugtaiqs0

Thank you. I agree that they do have a great sound. I love my 2 smokes but on an airplane the 1/2 VW just sounds better.

@@xpsgarage Love two strokes as well, old biker here that rode and owned all the big ones back in the 70's. The only trouble I ever had with them was fuel mix. Always my fault. Not the engine. I never thought about long downhill engine seizure or long descents in an aircraft either. That operating parameter never crossed my mind. I once rode a two stroke bike up then down the grapevine in california on a very hot day. No problems. But you no longer have to think about any of that now. Thanks for this video series. Cheers again. 👍

Thanks! I'm getting anxious to see it run too.

I do still have it. Click on the about information on my channel and you can get my email address.

I've heard the same thing but have never had a cracked crank to test it on.

So far no leaks.

Glad you like them!

Yes I did. Thought it looked good but I'm already thinking about changing it up again.

The paint is holding up just fine. I've only had to touch up a couple of places on the swingarm due to rock chips.

Welcome. Hope it helped.

I found mine on Ebay. It's a Kent-Moore J-42162 Side Gear Compressor.

LOL. Whatever works!

Since I run 40:1 premix it's surprising that it doesn't smoke more. The only time I have much smoke is during the first startup and if idling for an extended time. It also depends on the oil. Some of the "smokeless" oils are actually fairly smoke free. If you are still running oil injection have you checked the pumps to make sure they are set right? Also with injection you can have some oil from the tank get passed the crankseals if they are worn out and that will cause a lot of smoke.

I’ve heard mixed things about premix conversations? I’m running the oil injection, I’m planning an oil line replacement and will replace with SeaDoo XPS Oil. I’d love to see a video about adjusting the oil injection pumps and inspecting crank seals?

No, unfortunately 9n and 2n were set up with draft control only and didn't come with a position control. There are add on units, like in this link, that simulate position control. www.just8ns.com/PC500-Years1939-47-Position-Control-Assembly_p_2851.html

They seem to be good transmissions. They just need a few things to be really good.

LOL.

Yes I do.