Edit: fixed it, all I needed to do was rebind my key using powertoys

Hey, mine is just some SA profile PBT key caps. You if want shinny you could go with abs. And I got them from a Chinese keycaps store. Pretty sure you could find those easily

@@jiajinzheng3082 By the way, thank you for the video, one of my SMD LEDs gives very little red light. I will try to fix it soon

Hey, Krosto thanks for reaching out, and so sorry the late reply, just saw your comment now. By the sound of it, it does seems like one of the connection being loosen, and if for your keyboard that column of the keys are interconnected, that would mean any loosen connection within the same circuit could have caused the problem. it's high hope for your keyboard to be fixed, given it works intermittently, Could you please use the method I describe in the video to trace the connection of the that vertical circuit of the column (2,W,S,X), Starting from the anything upstream that connects to the key "2" > then connection between key "2" to "W" including any connection in between, all the way down to the downstream of "X" where "X" connect to. In theory connection loose in the entire circuit could have caused it, but given you probably use "ASWD" very often, i would suggest start sourcing the cause from the connection between the keys. And you could simply use a twiser to "gently" move the any electrical component that's connected to see if there is any spot that's a bit "shaky", and if you are able to find it, then it could be the point of the loosen connection, then simple solder it back, or solder a wire jumper (as mentioned in the video) to it's direct connected component. Or if it's just a very simple loosen pin, even tapping it back tightly may work. Hope this help :)

@@jiajinzheng3082 thanks for your reply. i’ll follow what you said 👍 but now i realised that F1,2,w,s,x,alt are in same row behaving like what i told you before…but when i opened it …it didn’t work by using a tweeser..but when i used multimeter ..then they all have the continuity and the keys were working when multimeter was used to short the keys

@@jiajinzheng3082 but you didn't mention how to use jumper in vertical row🙂

Hey @krostogaming, Thanks for replying again. I want to clarify that I'm not a professional in electronics or keyboard expert. From my observations of the three keyboards I own, I've noticed that the vertical connections do indeed vary - some are linked to a diode, while others connect to an LED. That's why I didn't include it in my video, as the specifics might not apply to all keyboards. Additionally, I want to touch on the use of a 'jumper'. While it can be a useful tool for re-establishing connections in cases of damaged or broken wires, it's not a one-size-fits-all solution, especially for issues related to broken components or microchips. If you can't spot the loosen or broken connection easily, it might be a bit out of my expertise to provide a solution. In these instances, I would recommend consulting a local electronics specialist for a more thorough examination. I'm sorry I can't be of more assistance in this matter.

@@jiajinzheng3082 you don't need to be sorry bro,, i respect you. but when i was going to do some bridging in my keyboard,,, my dad and me are medical engineers and he told me 'be careful before doing that if the pc and keyboard are connected make sure you don't blast the keyboard and pc while doing that coz you're not a professional to find the exact point of loosen connection"" and then i got scared and decided not to do that ... but i appreciate your advise man,,

if you are talking about LED, you could probably use a series of batteries. Just make sure you have enough voltage to power it, and then positive to active pin, negative to ground of your LED, should still work

@@jiajinzheng3082 I appreciate your quick response. Do you reckon a 9V battery would be too much for an LED?

@@turboheadcrab666 it’s normally around 5V