Would you run the oil line from the front to the rear on a mildly modified engine 351 c

What hp tq did this make and at what rpm

What is a build price on something like this?

The laugh 😂

It's like the looks you get with a 72 T-Bird with swapped 4:25 tracloc ! It was fun for awhile, Midwest rust got her, but that STJ went into a 78 Bronco!

Very interesting. Like your comment from a previous video. Paraphrasing, along the lines of, " to run with a carburetor and distributor, like a car should be". So true, hence looking forward to see the timing sorted out. Cheers. Hope your power don't quit on you!

Stainkess works and Kooks makes header for the 4.6 2v

Are the headers going to be dyno headers or specific to any chassis?

This series has me more interested in the mod motor as a performance engine. I have a good running stock 4.6 and automatic trans that I rebuilt in a wrecked F150. No one seems to want to give me hardly anything for the truck. I'm considering pulling the driveline for another project and scrapping the truck.

I have loved your channel for years. And Andy on unity motorsports and Daniel on powell channels. Keep going guys! Down to earth guys wnd channels.

Looking forward to this build and how the distributor mod and carb works. Thanks.

Are you avoiding a crank trigger, in order to avoid needing an ECU, and also to use plug wires?

Awesome

I was a Ford master tech. These are great engines. Other then oil leaks and some odd ball stuff , they ran great.

Thank to the little guys.just remember that are the ones that go out of there way to help

OCD is Not a Bad Thing The look is Important ! things that look nice Usually run better..

Thanks man great video, see ya on unity!

When you have the cam to distributor piece completed is there anyway that piece could be produced for sale for those of us wanting to do a carb 4.6?? Thanks for doing this project.. Am excited about it..

This gets interestinger and intresteringer!!

Thanks Brent!

Making good progress on OJ so far. Nice to see you and Daniel Powell working with one another. I think ole' Andy at Unity Garage can share some power making tips with the 4.6 2v.

I run both my twin turbo 32 coupe with a 4.6 4V and my 1996 Mustang Cobra 4.6 4V with a Megasquirt. Setup is much easier than a dizzy and uses all the factory sensors. It controls fuel and spark. I can send you the tune if you are interested.

I guess that I will be the person to ask the question. Why would you not want the dip stick?

Looking forward to Andy and you live! I'm interested in your thoughts on FE and FBB and FSB oiling issues.👍🙂

Have you done the dyno testing and l just missed it?

Can't wait for dyno testing, l think you will break 900

What is the part number for the correct cup plug?

What is the part number for the cup plug?

What are the specs for the rotating assembly? What crank, rods, etc. thanks

Very nice

Sorry…but i just can’t stand it when bolts are dropped on the floor..You handle tools and parts the same way?

You are so right about pulling on the torque wrench after set torque has been reached. Break away torque is "always" higher than pulling to a set point and yanking on it a second time does nothing.

The only real torque to yield bolts that i replace are the head bolts. The rest, i have reused with no issues. I either give them another 10 foot pounds on the torque wrench, or a little blue lock tight. Crankshaft bolts get the lock tight.

You are correct!!

Dominator all the way !!!

stick with efi t-body locks like a carb but runs better

my 2002 ford f-150 has a 5.4 two valve is a romeo engine and it has forged crank and all cross bolt mains windsers have cast crank

When I built a TP engine to go in Brother Lon's then-new '67 Mustang we got a short-block from the parts counter at the local dealer and I got the top end from a contact at Triple E who was involved in the LeMans development program. We got heads, manifold, and a pair of 652 center-squirter carbs. Both the heads and the block were painted black. This was in the fall of '67. My '64 Custom 427-T also had a black paint job on the engine. My '65 1/2 K-code Mustang also had a black engine. I have always used black on Ford performance engines.

yes dominator

I'm guessing you're giving up lots of midrange torque with that intake vs factory big plenum intake.

Yes, dry gaskets on intake. May want to replace the oil filter adapter gasket as they tend to leak every 100k or so at least on the older 4.6's. The 4 valve oil pan doesn't like the dip stick in the down position when reinstalling pan. Don't ask me how I know. I have seen the coolant pipe develop leaks under intake. Sealed with an oring at fitting. May want to replace pipe or maybe not if you don't mind pulling intake to fix it.

I was a mechanic when these engines came out and the engineers at the engine plant said that they were way more durable than the 5.0 engines they replaced when run in tests. I believe them. I also have never had a head off of a 4.6 (I have off of the 5.4 once) and never tore into the bottom of the engines. Just a recipe for disaster if you ask me. I've had 2 94 4.6 that went over 265k, one 2005 that went 295k and a 96 mark viii 4 valve 4.6 that went 315k miles and they all had original timing chains and no other engine work done other than intake manifold on the 2005 and some oil filter adapter gaskets and pan gaskets. One of my 94's had valves seals replaced (for smoking at idle).

I’m so grateful that there are new options for the FE. I thought I was going with a 385 series in my S-code Mach1. But will stick with the FE now that there are good head and intake options and the shock towers are probably going away. Anyone who’s ever done headers on a shock tower car knows the pain.

Curious on the long-term hp goals are trying for? Thanks

I have the book. Amazing detail.

The metal intake is made for built engines. It helps on top end but kills bottom end on the Mod engines. I took mine back off and put the Ford factory PI intake on. I bought a new one from the dealer.

The heater return tube can unbolt and pull off the nipple in the block. You could put a small rubber plug and cap it there, or you could heat it up and pull it out and tap it for a pipe plug, but that’ll make it useless in the future for anyone else who may want it.

Give it a shot !

Im getting ready to put 1 together like it

All you need know is 302 stroker assembly and TrickFlow top end in future......