@@shariefbegg4782 Me too!

@properjob Glad to here it!. 4T is a shortened way of saying 4 stroke and it will have a capacity of 150cc/ 0.15L

@@TheMotorcycleForge Gotcha, thanks.

@jamest.5001 They are titanium and I have heard you can't even lap them in as they have a hard coating and once that's gone they need replaced.

@danielstewart3507 Thanks Daniel, I'll need it.

@@mr2981 Very high praise, much appreciated.

@tonyhill8300 It's a product you put on the molten metal, which creates a reaction that puts heat into the risers, ensuring that they are last to cool. This helps with shrinkage.

@@tonyhill8300 Made of that lovely material Titanium 😍

@pauls.2526 Will do!

@jamesgarrard4361 Thanks James, that's some awesome information and the details I'm after. Will add all this to my book and give it a go. Cheers Logan

@@TheMotorcycleForge Hi logan No problem I have been involved in flow testing an ice development over 30 years and have modified more engines than I care to think about bikes cars and anything with a piston, I like the look of your head especially the valve to port angle ,this kind of design requires a slightly smaller throat diameter to retain good inertial filling so don't open the throats up Too much keep the intake around 88% of the valve od on intake and not more than 86 % on the exhaust as this port angle will serve excellent flow around the entire valve diameter, if you go larger it will ruin the potential cylinder filling, the port ID on intake should somewhat depend on the engine speed at which you plan to produce max torque and hp ,as a guide intake is around 85% of valve od and 88 on exhaust if your valve size choices are on point, ther are many bits to consider like intake port surface Finnish should have a rough finish Not polished!! Exhaust can be smooth, short side radious don't go mad leening it back without trial and testing, cloverleaf chaimber with as small a volume as possible no sharp edges leading into the combustion space don't sink the valve inside the combustion space 😉 Big area = a less heat efficient head ,injectors should have excellent atomisation a mist not large droplets . Maybe a surface discharge plug aswell but they are expensive, coil on plug !! Good luck buddy 👍

@jamesgarrard4361 Awesome details, James! Yes, I'm sure my intake throat is around 88% from memory. I plan to rev this engine to 14, and ye, I'll tr to keep the combustion camber as small as possible. I was even thinking of ceramic coating the roof of the combustion chamber and exhaust ports to try to keep heat in the exhaust gasses. Yeah, I won't be polishing the intake. I'm probably going to leave around a 240-grit finish but haven't decided yet. Will have injectors later on, but the first run I plan to use a carb, so I'm not changing to many variables at once. Thank again, cheers Logan

@bigears4014 I'll ask around. The R6 guides were actually pretty good price wise. It was the valves that will hurt the wallet

@noahdropkin1162 One of my concerns is using second-hand parts. You don't know the history, and I have heard some bad stories with race R6's dropping valves. I think I'll just have to break open the piggy bank.

@thehydroblade A356 Aluminum. Yeah hot topping is good for keeping the feeders liquid till the head is solidified.

@ what material do you use for the hot topping?

@Noonenaught It has crossed my mind, but I'm quite hesitant using cheap Chinese parts as I have been hospitalized from them failing before. I have some used r6 valves, which I can use for mock up ect but I will be using the real thing for the running engine.

@@QuiltingJeri Thanks man I'll let them know

@@MrCreeper1O2 It has just been added to my ever growing list of engineering stuff I need 😅

@georgedreisch2662 Yes the datum points are definitely on my mind, thanks for the tip. Cam shafts will be made from scratch as well, chilled cast iron seems to be popular but thinking about using 4340 if it's possible. Straight on cam bores, not sure I'll have room for shells. Yep 88% throat is what I aimed for on the cad for the same reasons. I need to do some more research into cam profiles but I'd imagine a R6 profile would be a real decent starting point.

@martynclinton8092 thanks Marty, as for who I follow a few which are similar are. Two stroke stuffing, Rob Dahm, Alec Steele, This old Tony and another kiwi who does the same type of stuff. Ods and ends machining.

Really inline with me then… 2strole stuffing Rob dahm Odds and ends 👍👍

@@KevinBan1 Cheers Kevin

@@TheMotorcycleForge You are welcome to use my flowbench anytime if you want. I know you want to do everything yourself, which is super cool and definitely how I roll too. But the offer is there, and I can share a few little tricks and traps in regard to flow data and what to look for and what to ignore etc and also cam material compatibility if you want.

@KevinBan1 I will most likely take you up on that offer in the new year. I'm super busy between now and Christmas, so hopefully, I will get it machined and ready to flow soon.

Yeah man go for it, its a lot to learn but super fun. Look up F1 v10 Cylinder head in google, its the first link on a site called F1 Technical.

@quesreal2552 It is bike specific, so it could be either a physical restriction in the intake or exhaust. A throttle limiting stop which can be removed. Or it could be in the map settings for the tune of the bike, which is a bit harder to remove.

​@@TheMotorcycleForgethanks for the information and for getting back to me. I have some research to do now, hope you have a great day

@340rps Have you serviced the caliper yet? Otherwise, your master cylinder may not be releasing, or your caliper may not be centered over the disk.

@cristianrivera3646 Thanks Cristian, much appreciated. Go for it!, You can do anything!

@@GregMacDougall-m3n It was pre-heated to around 600 degrees C

In a college metal casting class, I remember being taught to put talcum powder in the mold first to make the release of the casting more ''Clean''@@TheMotorcycleForge

@GregMacDougall-m3n Yep, that's definitely a go-to for sand casting. It's not required for investment casting, though, as the investment is water soluble.

@@typicalcambieau-666 That's a gr8 saying, will keep that in mind. Legend!

@GafferTapeIsSticky I never thought of trying it that way. I'll see how I go with the next castings. They will most likely be some much easier parts like, barrel, cam caps ect. Definitely thinking of ways to simplify the mold to make life easier.

@@manray8513 I'll look into it.

@charleswahlert3353 Thanks Charles. Yeah there is definitely an art to it and I think the more complex the pattern the harder it is to nail. Onto some machining now to try get the first peice of the puzzle ready.

@@TheMotorcycleForge I can't wait to see the results. If I make any headway with my casting issues I will reach out. I tried the ceramic shell method instead of investment. I need to play with investment as I think it is superior for something complex like a head with hollow passages. The ceramic shell vitrifies and becomes very hard to remove. Do you use any kind of soluble support for the water passages? I have some Formula Mazda shift forks I am planning to cast soon out of bronze with the lost shell method.

@charleswahlert3353 Yeah this water based investment is definitely the way to go regarding water passages. No water soluble supports unfortunately , I just designed the water jacket to not got over 45 degree overhang, so it will print without supports and the odd small bridges. Seems to work ok. Regarding the 3d print I have found that polycast gives a better finish than pla and leaves less crap in the mold. Upside-down Burn out helps as well.

@@TheMotorcycleForge I am using poly cast too and have had some issues getting it to print as well as normal PLA. What temperatures have you had the best luck with?

@charleswahlert3353 To get it to print nice, first you need a filament dryer/spool holder and pretty much have it on for 4 hour to dry it and leave it on when printing. Temp wise first layer 210c and rest 201- 202c. I use a glue stick on the build plate as well. Hope that's helpful

@jacksrcat They are most likely float bowel vents if they go down to the bottom and need to be kept open. If they go into the engine side of the carb they are vacuum fitting and if open will cause an air leak. Moat likely float vents, just blow air in them and see where they go.

@ thanks for the reply it’s appreciated !

@shariefbegg4782 Thanks man, will do.