Brilliant. Works so well.

I built 2 locos based on Romulus. They were fitted with Walschearts valve gear designed by late valve gear wizard Don Ashton.

It sounds wonderful.

Hi, I noticed the chassis spacer between the axles has been removed. I guess it will no longer fit with the Slomo in place. Does this have any effect on the chassis' rigidity? Thanks Mike

Thanks! very interesting! Do you plan to create the Slomo for the 7/8ths Accucraft Decauville?

Fabulous Terry

Nice to see your Billy out again Terry, hope you are well. Tom

Can you gauge the wheels for 32mm track with the Slomo installed?

Can you set the wheels to 32 mm gauge with the Slo Mo?

I haven't even got a roundhouse loco yet and I am already thinking of getting a SloMo - Could you put a pen mark on the axle to help show where the flat is when trying to line it up? I would also be terrified of messing up the valve timing - is this not an issue? Thanks

How did you do the whistle? Lovely runner!

That’s an amazing and beautiful little train you have. Thanks for sharing this with us all Cheers

Very nice rail model and the Garden is just like our Darjeeling Hill .

Much improved version for 0-4-0 Roundhouse locos Terry, well done!

Thanks Terry order email sent. John

Terry what's the delivery time for the Billy Slomo 2

So much better.....still sounds wheeze and acceleration a couple of times is unrealistic...well done.

Dont know why this has not taken off....

I have copied your idea and it works a treat. Thank you again for the information.

Thanks for posting. I’m currently looking to get my first live steam. This is the first time I’ve seen the couplers actually being hooked up. Does that center buffer work with the standard LGB hook and loop couplers, or are those something else?

My Slomo is still working well in my Roundhouse Silver Lady 👍

I am beginning to think that RC is not needed if a SSP SLOMO is fitted. Digital control is so much more satisfying.

Roundhouse should have these or something similar fitted already and they should also have a coal option, like Riverdale.

Interesting. I looked up your product. Any pictures of the installation? I find the idea of the spinning flywheel to help regulate slow speed fascinating. I think it really makes it operate at a more scale pace. In acceleration and deceleration.

Thank you for this advice. I did not know of this method and will try it toot sweet.

How many channel radio does it take to convert these to rc control?

Brilliant Terry! The slow speed is just so very realistic. I was wondering how far you got with the black one you were doing when I visited with that difficult Roundhouse Fowler (which runs nicely since its Slomo conversion btw). I have two Na's that could do with Slomos. Are you going to do these commercially? Thanks for the video. I'll be replaying it over and over.

Look at that Slomo causing so much drag and resistance ;) Great work Terry, thanks for sharing gardenrails.org

Spectacular Terry - that is some serious civil engineering! And the chuff echoes nicely :-) Cheers Chris

That opening scene through the tunnel with the light and steam is a classic. Would get an award from me. How come we can hear it so well while it's in the tunnel? Does the RC work in the tunnel?

Excellent Terry, I still like watching the early Slomo videos with your Billy. gardenrails.org

Very nice product and well thought out video. The slo-mo is beyond my means. It would be nice to have a set of plans and gears/sprockets available as a kit for model engineers.

Brilliant installation and realistic result

Just brilliant. What a combination slomo and chuffer!

Do you think this would fit a Russell as well-looks brilliant

Fantastic Terry - definitely worth waiting for!! Cheers Chris

Awesome work. Much needed in Small Live Steam.Will it be possible to fit the Innisfail Fowler and Bundaberg Fowler. Cheers

Great work Terry, does it fit the Silver Lady? When can we buy!

is the Slomo now available for Lady Anne ?

i agreement slomo effect so far,,too much realistic

Very clever way to get driver axle out without disturbing the return crank angle, regardless of installing Slo-mo or not. Loved placing roll of paper towel under the cab roof too. Thx 4 posting! From USA

Looks like this slomo really improves running characteristics - much smoother pull away and control especially at slower speeds. I think I will have to order one soon.

Don't understand why everyone doesn't fit a slomo, even roundhouse themselves

What did you use for the drain cocks?

Thanks Fabrizio Yes the Slomo makes all the difference for slow running but the Summerlands chuffer gives that great sound.

great loco and nice sound and slow running. It seems with fitted mechanical slow- mo. With my compliments to Roundhouse and to you.

Setting the 90 degree relationship between return crank and main crank is much more easily accomplished by fabricating a pair of brass strips, one to place the main crank at either 3:00 or 9:00 position, and the other to place the return crank at 12:00 position. This is the same principle as a quartering jig. To get the right dimensions, you must measure your driver diameter, your motion diameter (nominally .125"), your main crank throw, and your return crank length. Lay these out in CAD to get the size of your two spacing strips. Rotate your driver so the crank pin touches the top of the main crank strip. This puts it at either 3:00 or 9:00. Now rotate the return crank so that it drops on top of the return crank strip. If the strips were accurately cut, you should be dead on 90 degrees.As far as the return rod length goes, this, too can be determined first by CAD layout. To test it, I use a method similar to yours, except I open the steam chest and observe the valve movement front-to-back to determine if the travel is equal in both directions, and measure the distance from the "D" valve to the front or back wall of the steam chest. The theoretical length of the return rod does not always give best results!I scratchbuild American prototypes from Roundhouse components and as such have different spacing of components than Roundhouse standard. My locomotives are all inside frame, so my frames are scratchbuilt, too. Closer spacing from driving wheel to cylinder dictates different return rod geometry. Not always a lot of fun!I have built a 2-8-0 Consolidation, a pair of 2-4-4-2 Mallets, and a Climax geared locomotive using these methods, and they all run well.BTW, nice touch adding ball bearings. My axle bushings wear out too fast!

Beautiful trains and railway! Where did you get those lovely cars, I'm in the market for a few for my Roundhouse L & M.

Excellent video. Thank you for sharing it. Do you know if it is suitable for accucraft engines?

Good explanation and straight forward method for valve adjustments on Roundhouse locos'. I like your method of measuring the distance from the slide valve connection to the front of the valve chest. Thanks for posting.