@stephengibbs4372 yeah these things are quite finicky and there's lots of stuff that can make noise. I'm currently running Mobil 1 15w50 in both my 110 twin cam and my big motor M8

@@wbgarywp how’s the 15 weight go with roller bearings ? Years ago I put a 15/50 semi synth shell oil in a sportster and hammered out the bigend rollers on a 500 mile trip. But oil has changed since the 80’s I guess . Thanks for the input.

@stephengibbs4372 both bikes have been doing great. I bought my 2019 with AMS oil in it. 200 miles later it was tapping from the bottom end. Tore it apart and the only thing I could find wrong with it was the big end of the rods had a slight binding spot only every 6 to 10 rotations

@stephengibbs4372 honestly if I could I would not be scared to run a 0w50. I also run Rotella T6 5W-40 in my transmission and primary.

@@tomburns890 thanks

@@tomburns890 yep

@@wbgarywpwow great, I didn’t have my tire guy install it because he said it was a $120 computer program fee. Thank you

@@wbgarywpand just to clarify it’s on/off 5 times then brake then off/on 6 times ending on On then brake and that will do it?

@tomburns890 I bought a cheaper programming tool and it didn't work. But this manual method worked after I put a new sensor in

@@wbgarywpand just to confirm the sequence can u read my previous message and confirm. Thx

@@larryhochmuth8950 over 50k on mine. Nice and quiet. Was that a new crate engine or rebuilt engine ?

@@leethompson9797 you have to learn the new sensor. The standard procedure only resets the locations after a tire rotation. Follow this video to put it in learning mode. And start letting air out

​@@wbgarywpthank you so much for the reply. Even still after programming it just like the video it still won't detect it. I'm thinking maybe the sensor has to wake up after driving. It looks like this motorcraft sensor was packaged in 2017. 😊😊 So far I tried some Amazon universal sensors and when I couldn't program these using the method in the video I bought motorcraft. Any insight would be greatly appreciated

@@leethompson9797 it may have a dead battery. 7 years is a lot of shelf life. It might help to do a short drive and then try programming again

That did it. Thank you!

@@leethompson9797 awesome 💪

@@jpmurphy1982 stock pushrods. New lifters and Bailey pop off valve solved my issues

@@jeffrasmussen7462 new lifters and upgraded oil pop off valve fixed it

@karenwilliams2427 it's a car tire. It carries the weight of a car. Right on the side well it has a load carrying capacity which is greater than this axle will ever hold. I'm very familiar with DOT. There's no law against increasing your tires load carrying capacity. This will be much safer than the original equipment tires.

@@wbgarywp Well since you are so will informed just Google Can you use car tires on a trailer ??? The answer is NO!!!!! If you bother to do any research on the subject, you will conclude that it's best to use trailer tires on trailers, car tires on cars, truck tires on trucks, etc. But, there will always be a few people who claim that they used car tires on a trailer and had no issues. They just haven't had any issues yet. Can you put regular car tires on a trailer? Why? No, regular car tires cannot be put in a trailer. This can be dangerous. Tire tread on car tires is different than the tread designed for trailers, which can cause irregular wear on the tire and will blow. Load ratings are also carefully chosen for car or truck tires and completely differ from trailer tires. What Makes Trailer Tires Different? You may be wondering, "Can I use car tires on a trailer?" The short answer is no. Special trailer or ST tires are designed for a different purpose than car tires, also called P-metric or Euro-metric tires. This means they have different features. Higher load capacity Stiffer sidewalls and higher operating pressures A lower maximum speed rating Oxidation Higher Load Capacity ST tires have about 10 percent more load capacity than comparable light truck or LT tires and about 40 percent more capacity than typical car tires. This makes them better at hauling big loads than car tires. Stiffer Sidewalls and Higher Operating Pressures Car tires have flexible sidewalls to keep their tread anchored to the road and increase comfort. Car tires also play an important role in: Steering Transmitting power from the engine to the road Making turns or swerving to avoid obstacles Trailer tires have stiffer sidewalls to prevent trailer sway and stiffer, less complex suspensions. Many smaller trailers don't even have brakes. Higher operating air pressures for trailer tires keep the load capacity higher than a car. Trailer tires also have narrower wheels and shallower treads to improve fuel efficiency and reduce heat from friction. Hint Hint!!

@karenwilliams2427 I understand what you're saying. In some circumstances this is the case. But in this case it's not. These tires are higher load carrying capacity than the cheap tires that came off of it that only last 1000 miles. I promise you I won't have any issues with DOT. They've got their hands full with all of these raggedy semi trucks running Recaps on a steer axle

I'll meet you guys in the middle. How about instead of a "Car Tires" OR Cheap HF/Wal Mart/Temu Trailer tires. You go with a good Quality Trailer Tire of the same size ? What I think karenwilliams2427 is saying if there is a tire issue resulting in an Accident , law enforcement / Lawyer.... Can say he was running Tires that were not designed for trailer use. Law says use Trailer Tire and if your not anything that happens is Your problem....

@michaellandreth1392 I get what you're saying. Even though it's far-fetched. I'd be willing to battle that won in court. They would have to prove Beyond Reasonable Doubt that's a tire caused the accident. Then you have the question of what that accident have happened with a Harbor Freight Tire. A trailer tire blow out almost never results in an accident. If it does you probably shouldn't be behind the wheel or pulling a trailer. Trailer accidents are usually a result of an overreacting driver or improper loading / weight distribution

@norcoauctions ill work on that in a German accent.

It's "it's" not its. You should learn your grammar.

@@MrTimdtoolman1 clean and lubricate the locking mechanism best you can. I place my foot off to one side so not to have your foot on the button that releases it

@Eren119 yes it gave me just a little more oil pressure at hot idle. No more tap. But try to pinpoint exactly what's tapping. Lots of things on these bikes can make noise

@@wbgarywp We also checked everything, suspected the crankshaft, so I wanted to take everything apart again, hand in the crankcase for repair, then discovered this today, we hadn't checked the oil pump beforehand

@@Marktheshark943 90 foot pounds

@Marktheshark943 deflate, break beads with manual tire changer and peel off with tire irons. Or bring to a local tire shop.

@@wbgarywp thanks ! Keep up the good videos !

@@Marktheshark943 I'll definitely try. I've been having a bunch of projects going on but haven't had time to record and stuff

@all4bspinnin311 good for scratchin butt, unclipping wire connections and scraping gaskets 🤣

@wbgarywp dude I bet those back scratches are next level 🫳🫳

@@bigwash1444 it was a pita. I'll have to invest in some camera equipment and editing so I can put out some better videos

www.ebay.com/itm/263835524388?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=i88wEx-RTYC&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=U9BJT4KATrO&var&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Fixed it with new lifters and a Baisley Precision oil pop off valve

Nice

I took the cam chest cover off earlier and didnt really see any irregular wear but i also have not looked at alot of cams so i really dont know but it seems that the rocker lockers are looking like the cheapest first stab plus it should continue to help in the future

@slippinjimmy527 my problem was solved with replacing the lifters and installing a slightly higher pressure relief valve in the oil pump

Good question. I have to check the tag

@@wbgarywp OK great yeah if you could let me know. I greatly appreciate this video. I just bought the 1200 pound version. I’m fairly certain this upgrade will apply to both. Or at least a similar variation.

@@youcanthide004 mine is 1195. But it shouldn't matter as long as you have 12 inch wheels

@@wbgarywp Mine is also 1195, so good to go / Also I think you are right as long as they are both 12" wheels. Thanks Brother!

For anyone else wanting to know, the 1700lb trailer uses a 5 lug wheel and the tire size 5.3-12. So those car tires might sit a little fatter. The only problem I could see happening would be scrubbing on frame but I think there is plenty clearance. The deal with the folding trailer even if you lock it out there are two bolt heads present. If your tire increases in diameter and it's a little wider. It could be very close if the tire flexes and scrapes those bolt heads you could easily shred a sidewall. Like when hitting a pot hole for instance. That could probably be alleviated by also installing a wheel spacer on the hub. I would do some careful measuring before doing this on the 1700lb version with factory wheels. Now if you had wheels that have the hub offset slightly inward then it should be ok. You also don't want to change weight and other forces too much as the bearings are probably not going to like it.

Yeah I should have done a better job of explaining the exact count

The little trailer is bouncy no matter what because it's so light weight. But once you get a motorcycle on it it rides much smoother. Lubricate all the friction points and you'll forget it's back there when loaded.

Yes

@@wbgarywp Would they fit with the fender?

@nathanielramirez8997 they would clear on mine. It's only about 1" difference

@@wbgarywp right on thanks for quick response. Overall would you say towing has gotten better with the tire upgrade?

@nathanielramirez8997 I just did 1800 mi with a street glide on the back. It rode excellent and the tires show no signs of wear. The stock tires would have been at least half worn out in 1800 miles. I like taking this trailer just because I can get great gas mileage with it. If I pull my enclosed trailer I'm really paying the price

Get the part number and look for it online. You might have better luck that way as there will be aftermarket options. They differ depending on year and engine

Love them. Impressive sound at a fairly low cost

Yes the threaded snapping connections have an O-ring and are common to leak

Not sure how to contact

Trying to figure out the best way to get you my contact info and vice versa. Do you have a facebook account or any suggestions?

Good morning MacGyver. I tried sending my email yesterday twice. Still attempting to get you to work on my truck.

I’m trying again

It didn’t work. Must be a KZbin violation.

Not too sure. You should be able to call any Ford dealer service department and get a quote to replace both valve covers and vacuum pump gasket. If you were local to St Louis I'd help you out.

Montana here, ford quoted me $750 for the valve cover & $750 for the vacuum pump. i have seen as high as $2500 for both valve covers on forums.

2023 should still be under warranty. 21 and up is a redesign.

So far there holding up very well. I'd be willing to bet they'll dry Rot before the tread is low 😂

Just did 1800 miles with a street glide on it. It rode perfect. Tires show no signs of wear. The original tires would have been at least half worn out

@@wbgarywpthanks man, I’ll be doing this to my trailer

Definitely. This o-ring is all that was leaking but I went ahead and replaced both valve cover assemblies.

Check for continuity between the amplifier and the speaker on each wire.

Don't quote me on it but I believe it's about 9 ft lb. I just snug them with a quarter inch ratchet. It should tighten quite easily as the valve cover bolts have little bushings built into the valve cover

@@wbgarywp thanks I know they don’t take much 👍🏻

@mikimiki195 you're welcome. Honestly the hardest part for me was removing the original valve covers. A lot of prying and I felt like I was going to break them taking them off

Ignition off press and release brake pedal. Ignition on, off, on, off, on. Press and release brake pedal. Ignition on, off, on, off, on. Horn should sound. Leave that ignition on and program your sensors

Worked for me, too, exact same problem. Too bad this was so hard to find.

@@wbgarywp dude huge thanks for this response. My 2016 F-150 doesn't have the push button start so I had to use this method. I was about to give up until I came across this. I'm making a how-to video for replacing the TPMS sensors. I'll give you a shout out and credit for this method. Thanks again, and subscribed.

@@thefiXfiles glad to help. Much appreciated

Probably so. Both engines are very similar. The m157 is just slightly more displacement with larger turbochargers.

Just jump on Amazon or Ebay and Order 10 inch lift support 82 lbs

There are 100s of options all with slightly different measurements

@@andrewdomanski4109 www.ebay.com/itm/284723461560?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=rqc1gyfrska&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=U9BJT4KATrO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I'm having trouble getting mine to stay in doesn't seem to be latching any recommendations

Yes

do you just press brake and let off? My truck has a push button, not a key to start.

@@douglasstovall2395 yes my truck in the video is also push button

Thanks for your prompt replies. Will try this tomorrow and let you know@@wbgarywp

On my 2016 F-150 Lariat this didn't work. However, the following did work and recognized the single new sensor and the other 3 existing ones: 1. With ignition OFF, press and release the brake pedal. 2. Turn the ignition from OFF to Run 3 times, ending in the Run Position. 3. Press and release the brake pedal. 4. Position the ignition to OFF position. 5. Turn the ignition from OFF to Run 3 times, ending in the Run position. The horn will sound if you did it right, then follow the instructions in the message center. Train the tires LF/RF/RR/LR with the TPMS tool. The horn will sound after each tire and, after the last beep, the message center will say training complete. Hopefully this will be of use for others.

Try to verify exactly where the noise is coming from. There is also a common problem on the top end and they have a solution which is a product called rocker lockers

I pulled the rocker box covers off of mine, and definitely had some endplay on mine. Make sure your lifters are at TDC and grab your rocker arm I was able to shift it back and forth and make a tic.

​@@wbgarywp worked for me ✌️ 🤘

I think you're talking about the little plastic pieces that hold the wiring harness onto the studs of the valve cover bolts. They just pull off takes a little finessing

Perfect

There will be some differences. I'm not sure on 2010 but I know that on 2011 through 2014 the factory subwoofer is under the right rear seat. But that's if it has the Sony Sound System

@wbgarywp yes mine is basic sound lol but the rear speakers weren't working I don't know if they turned them off some how or unplugging computer and plugging back in would reset ot if nothing would change? I'm no sterio gu roo

@@K-9Gar have you gone to the sound settings and checked fade?

@wbgarywp you bet I went threw balance fade and the options in system I recall going threw this 6 years ago in same truck but forgot what fixed it?

@K-9Gar you can probably disconnect the battery for a while to reset the system. Or attempt to perform a sync update. Next I would remove the door panel and test the speaker with a multimeter set to ohms. If all of that test good then I would remove the weather boot in check for continuity on each speaker wire between speaker and body of the truck.