I have a Acadia 15 from new, now with 190K miles on it, never have a problem only regular maintenance and I install a extra aftermarket transmission oil cooler when I bay it.

So I have a 2016 Chevy Cruz turbo engine and what my car is doing is it drove fine for about an hour and a half all the way to LA as soon as I got off the freeway came to a stop at the light and when I went to go it let me go, but then it acted as if my brakes were being applied kind of heavily, but it was not pushing my brake pedal down so then I would go to accelerate And then it would start accelerating and then do it again then you could push the gas through it doing its little break or slip or whatever and it just continues to do it, but it doesn’t do it in reverse and it doesn’t do it in first, but something is telling me that it is not the transmission even though everyone says it is something is telling me it’s not the transmission because I have not had any kind of issue with my transmission leading up to this but I have had a vacuum leak code pop and now it is popping a P0420 code only and it had popped a P01011 amongst a couple other codes having to do with pretty much a leak problem and I knew I had a massive leak, but I wasn’t able to specify where but help does anyone know what the fuck is going on cause I’m stumped everyone wants to tell me it’s the transmission but something tells me inside because I have some. What a good idea and how to work on cars and how cars function and I am so stumped specially because I replace the pressure map sensor and crankshaft sensor. I have not done the maf sensor but I’m gonna do that next, but something is telling me. It is the brakes because when I am driving, it sounds as if the brakes are applied somewhere like a dragging sound almost….HELP PLEASE N THANKS U I cannot get over a few miles an hour without it doing this

So I have a 2016 Chevy Cruz turbo engine and what my car is doing is it drove fine for about an hour and a half all the way to LA as soon as I got off the freeway came to a stop at the light and when I went to go it let me go, but then it acted as if my brakes were being applied kind of heavily, but it was not pushing my brake pedal down so then I would go to accelerate And then it would start accelerating and then do it again then you could push the gas through it doing its little break or slip or whatever and it just continues to do it, but it doesn’t do it in reverse and it doesn’t do it in first, but something is telling me that it is not the transmission even though everyone says it is something is telling me it’s not the transmission because I have not had any kind of issue with my transmission leading up to this but I have had a vacuum leak code pop and now it is popping a P0420 code only and it had popped a P01011 amongst a couple other codes having to do with pretty much a leak problem and I knew I had a massive leak, but I wasn’t able to specify where but help does anyone know what the fuck is going on cause I’m stumped everyone wants to tell me it’s the transmission but something tells me inside because I have some. What a good idea and how to work on cars and how cars function and I am so stumped specially because I replace the pressure map sensor and crankshaft sensor. I have not done the maf sensor but I’m gonna do that next, but something is telling me. It is the brakes because when I am driving, it sounds as if the brakes are applied somewhere like a dragging sound almost….HELP PLEASE N THANKS U I cannot get over a few miles an hour without it doing this

i have an 09 gmc acadia. This is the worst car on the planet! I have put over 2000$ in this car, and it still runs like crap! fix one issue and another one pops up.

Skottie Kilmer says not to Start depleted Car Until donor Car has turned off ignition ; he says beforehand , donor Car has been running ( charging depleted battery ) for 10 min , ( if other battery completely depleted ) then donor Car turns off ignition , before other Car trys to start ; he didn't mention whether to disconnect cables before depleted Car trys to Start Up though ; by his reasoning , i would think Once donor Car has run for 5-10 min , Remove cables , with donor Car running , then with cables removed Start depleted Car , As battery should have received sufficient Charge to Start ; Skottie's Resoning against having both Cars running + Connected by Cables , is that Alternators will spin against each other , Causing damage to electrical components in one or both vehicles , he seemed to imply , primarily , the donor vehicle's , electrical Components could be fried , but maybe both ? Your thoughts Happy Christmas + NewYear !! Enjoy Your Channel Best 🕊️🇺🇸💖🕊️ 🕊️🇨🇦💖🕊️ 🕊️💖🌎💖🎄🎶🕊️

My 2015 cruze has same issue , changed the neg battery wire and same , now I noticed it turns off when engine is at running temp . Can it be something else , it comes on alot

For the 2007 and 2008 Buick Enclave, GMC Acadia, and Saturn Outlook the torque strut mount is different. I just ordered one for my 2008 Saturn Outlook. The same goes for the fuel pump. For some reason the 2007 and 2008 is different.

I just had the P0171 & P1101 codes come on back in August. I took it apart & cleaned everything. That lasted just over 5 months & I knew this was coming after researching those codes. I just bought that exact kit with the catch can. Awesome video guy. THANK YOU so much for showing everything! Just wish I did it when it was still warm out.🤦‍♂🥶😂I'm in Pittsburgh in December...

I usually go higher than 50 50 in my cars just because ive had near misses if temps got too low. I probably have 75-80 percent in truck right now.

I use prestone green in my SBC. Never had any problems glad you don't like dexkill lol.

I just add some to my transmission and now its jerking at 45 and the service stabilitrak came on now

Don’t crank the car up to test. None of the KZbinrs ever do that 🙄😒😒

3/4 to 1 turn after a lube film on gasket. Clean oil is best! Never replace same used filter. Trust an old maint man!

He really knows what he's talking about and it's logic at all ! Most of the time when my girlfriend's chevy cruze 2015 RS have that F**** StabiliTrak pop up on the dash, the Economy battery pops too at the same time. It means the voltage is at the lowest. I've changed almost everything. Exhaust manifold, map sensor, motor cover, Maf sensor, Catalystic, prestone tube and waterpump (Thinking about maybe it's overheating causing that engine to jumps up and down crazy, but at least that's a common problem too in cruze) Right now I've just purchasing the ground cable, the voltage sensor and a new coil pack to see if it fix on my side too, Will be back on comment if it works for us too.

There's nothing wrong with the Quadrajet. People trash-talk them because they don't know how to tune them. And you can't expect a 40 year-old carb to run like new. And yes, Bill Clinton sucks (and so does his crooked wife).

Thank you

HEY. having a bad result on a carburetor is a lack of knowledge, dont blame the carburetor, blame yourself. Those are not that bad, it is just that you have to know what you are doing. and it tells me that you dont know the principals of those carburetors. you should read the book and understand the principals of that type of carburetor. so let that type of jobs to some body that knows what he is doing. no hard feeling, GERRY G. from CANADA.

I use an oil filter socket set. Never met a filter I couldn't remove with it. Bought it after having a strap wrench fail to get the job done on my Jeep, and I had to resort to a large screwdriver. I got real nervous as the can began to tear in half before it finally came loose.

Thank You! Most of the other videos on this issue do not address the electrical system.

How do you clean the area around the orange button. Mine is pretty dirty, I can only see it with camera.

Ive used a chisel more than once.

I saw the screwdriver trick go EPICLY wrong in a yt vid: Poor guy sheared half the oil filter off right to the adapter housing, additionally they punctured there oil pan. Talk about a bad day.

I have a old style metal filter cover with a changeable filter inside. I can overtighten it or not. In the old days, I once or twice literally punched an old screwdriver through the disposable units in order to remove it. Big mess but it worked.

The EGR valve is another one.

My mechanic son showed me the special pliers. Think pliers with curved jaws work better.

My vote goes to the auto stop/start. HATE!!!

Thanks a lot i have the exactly same mistake until i found your video save my day.

I'll be install my kit this week, I just ordered a cheap catch can off ebay. But thank you for sharing

Thank you

Hey Friend, have you checked if the clip is still in the intake manifold? I bought that glue and it didn't give me much confidence, to be honest. Saludos amigo

I tightened the front grounds, disconnected negative battery terminal cable to clear engine light and used my new spare key..so far so good.."junk car"

Why did they change from chains to belts for timing?

Makes you wonder if that thing was plumbed to the intake through the carb if it would add power?🤔🤷😎👍

V-Belts are so much easier to work on! You don't know pain until you have changed a serpentine on a modern FWD import car where you have less than a half in inch of space to put the belt tool on the stupid tensioner and then you have to pull on it so hard to get the belt off that you end up rounding off the aluminium of the tensioner what a bad design. Another flaw with it is now you have tensioner and an idler pulley that can go bad which is more parts to fail and ruin your day. And with V-Belts if your AC compressor locks up on a serpentine setup you are stranded on the side of the road with V-Belts you can just take that one belts off and still drive away. Imagine your smog pump locks up and leaves you stranded lol throw that thing in the trash!

The plugs for the exhaust manifolds are 1/2"-20. They ARE NOT pipe thread. Removing those AIR tubes makes spark plug changes easy.

Facts you don't need to have a smog pump or a catalytic converter if you don't dump too much fuel into the exhaust through too much valve overlap, not enough ignition advance and fuel dumping carb that flows more fuel than air cough cough quadrajet. Back in the 60's before all the regulations cars ran so much better. The cam profiles were better the carbs were better and the ignition timing was better both mechanically and through vacuum advance that the gave the engine the extra timing it wanted at idle and part throttle. It is a common misconception that the hardened valve seats were made to condensate from the switch to unleaded gas. But I believe it was because of the hotter temperatures in the combustion chamber from not enough ignition advance, creating premature valve seat failure.

i got on better on timing gear some of the 235 six cylinder chevy in the 50's had soy bean fiber cam gear with a steel crank gear driving it

I have a question I have a 2013 Chevy Cruze my car just cuts off for a short second and then when it comes on it says service stabilitrak and goes right off. No engine light or nothing when I use the code reader no code comes up where do I go from here

Right now I have all 3 power steering stablia track and traction control. I just changed the ground to a brand new ac delco one and it's still bad

I agree, most of that shit has fallen off my rigs , but the engine auto start stop that shuts your car off every time your at a light is up there

Plastic engine pieces.

I had a 1980 Mercury Monarch with a 250 straight 6 engine, the engine gave up and when i replaced it, I threw away that smog pump and rerouted the vacuum lines so that it ran smooth. The increase in power was not extreme but noticeable with a little bit better fuel mileage.

Chuck it. My smog pump is gone along with the EGR, idle air control, cold start valve, all climate controls, catalytic converter and aux air intake valve. I kept the PCV tho :)

They actually started appearing in the late 1960's. Quite a few muscle cars came with air pumps on them especially those sold in good ole California. Everything from DZ 302 Z28 up to larger 427 Corvettes like the L71 .

Dumbest thing is EFI on engine.

The early style catalyst needed the fresh air so the catalyst would reduce CO emissions also working with EGR Valve reducing NOX emissions.

I have a 2014 Chevy Sonic with a non-turbo 1.8L engine. I am not a mechanic but stumbled upon your video. My question is that I think my Sonic has this problem too but I don't see a kit for it. The problem is that after driving for 10 minutes, it starts running rough and there is squealing around the cranskshaft area. I cant remeber the service engine code but it was something about running too lean. I also noticed my dipstick had some suction on it when I pulled it out. I also am afraid to drive it because when I had it in park and tapped the gas pedal the engine revved up by itself to around 3000 rpm then slowly came back down. Does this sound like the same problem you have with the 1.4L engines? I also like to mention I only have 62,000 miles on it. Any advice would be appreciated.

How about chryslers mds/gms afm systems? A more problematic concept, in an attempt to gain 2 mpg on a gas-guzzling v8 engine by deactivating 1/2 of the cylinders, than what its actually worth.

My choice is opti spark on the Chevy small block

I have to agree with the person who said nylon timing gear teeth. Engineers! ….am I right?