THANK YOU!!!!!

Do you need warm water?

How do i avoid getting white dots when i rince the project?

Thank you so much!! NOW I'll try it soon myself.

Can OHW paints be sprayed with airbrush directly from the can or does it need diluted?

You’re full of it

i bought a hydro dip starter pack with some white primer .. do i have to base coat it after ? because even primer layer dried up it start to get liquid again .. and messes up the whole dip .. do you know whats going on ?

पायरी ६: क्लीअरकोट

पायरी ५: डिप

पायरी ४: चित्रपट सक्रिय करणे

पायरी ३: डिपसाठी सेट करा

पायरी २: भाग रंगविणे

पायरी १: भाग तयार करणे

I’m gonna dip my car in my neighbors pool with a crane and hydro dip my whole car 😂

Can you get custom designs printed on the dip pattern? Like, can I get a specific car or a wedding picture made into a pattern for hydro dipping? If so, where do I get that made?

2k clear coat used or 1k?

When I put the intercoat in the cup to spray it it’s yellowish… is it normal?

Is it possible to add my own metal flake to a can of the clear intercoat?

Do i spray intercoat between each layer of True Fire to prevent bleeding or is that desirable?

Would I need to remove the original paint before preparing the new one?

Hi Jason. Thank you for great feedback in this video. As a follow up, what is the the proper consistency of clear? Is it the same as for paints? Thank you again.

Plz talk louder 👍

I wouldn't think that winter would be a problem. The shop will still be summer temperatures.

Good video bt wear mask

that’s 1 way how to make a short presses long 😅

So we have renamed decals, a nice new twist, but still a decal. Thanks, n nice work.

Hi OHW, I have a carbon fiber bike frame, I want it a rich green. So i can buy the green, go over the raw, bare, UD carbon, and then 2k clear over the whole thing? Thanks! Super excited to try this on a frame i’m buying.

This is perfect for abs/Polyurethane/polypropylene plastic flexible bumpers

I am an ASE Master tech and after 46 years I want to paint my 67 C10 pickup white on top and metallic copper brown on bottom 3/4 field with base coat & clear. Chemically stripped, cleaned, sanded then sprayed in epoxy. Body work done, high build, epoxy primer, shoot white on top and tape off. It is at this point that I have questions on inter-coat on the white to create a tap line to spray the rest. I don't know anything about dipping, no clue what it is! I just want to tape off, cover the white and spray the rest. I was thinking the inter-clear that works like a base coat and protects the white during a spray so tape does not pull off white once done, clean, sand to 1,000 grit and spray clear. Not a painter but have painted 6-7 family cars. Kids learn to drive, wife learns what reverse does, etc. I am retired and in extreme pain and plan on finishing this truck with an 03 truck 5.3L and 700R4 I build 3 years ago. Just researching. Retired, broke, no garage and no clue on dip other than pinch between cheeks and gums. That dip in my world!

I don’t know what year this was made, but higher resolution could not be more crucial as well as closer views of the patterns. Atomization is key, and if we can’t see for ourselves the barely perceptible differences in the atomization of the paint then it’s all for naught. I don’t get the 3 second thing. Holding a gun for three seconds on an automotive panel will cause a run, unless the initial pattern is blown out with too much air pressure and not enough paint. And at that point the finish would look like a “dry coat”, meaning somewhat like sandpaper. Too much distance does a similar thing, where the paint has so much accompanying and relatively dry airflow that it is trying to dry mid air. Puddling in the middle of the test pattern indicates too much paint, which can be corrected by either less fluid flow or more pressure, but in reality more CFM, but the tip size combined with psi dictates CFM. A 2.0 tip will flow more CFM with the same psi as a smaller tip size. And Vice versa. Smaller tip size means more pressure to get same CFM. Fluid restriction might be a way to make up for a small compressor, but the whole idea is to apply paint, so the industry eggheads have determined that to save our squirrels and beavers and mockingbirds we must apply the paint with as little waste as possible, meaning high transfer efficiency, which in turn means less overspray, and more actual paint on the work surface and less wasted into the air as overspray. They have determined that the best way to do this is with a spray gun which uses higher volumes of air, but with less pressure. They figured that 50 psi at the tip made for too turbulent of airflow, which allowed too much paint in that airflow to become airborne in a cloud of paint which wasn’t just not going to land on the surface correctly, but that if it did in such an airborne state, the finish would be undesirable and often necessitate a respiratory, which means yet more paint wasted, which in turn means more paint in the air and which in turn means more paint to be scrubbed and swept “away” and at some point right into little Rocky Raccoon’s body, where he might seek revenge on our careless toxic waste missteps and toss our refuse containers. The evidence is there. For every drop of paint not in the desired position, that is paint we have to at some point clean and dispose of, lest it become the new hue of our shop floor. So the best example of high volume and low pressure would be one giant drop of heavily thinned paint onto a horizontal surface. That paint will flow out until the surface tension grows as the paint reacts with the air and starts to release its highly volatile solvents, a necessary vehicle to get the paint to remain liquid while not exposed to air, and needed for transfer to the desired location, our body panel, fridge, bicycle, guitar, whatever. Shop floor. That would be a 100% transfer rate. Top notch, and Flipper would approve. No waste. No clean up. So how do we do that for a car door? Lay it flat, apply the calculated amount of thinner for the volume of paint needed to cover the entire car door to the desired millage, and pray that it hits every corner and crease and undulation equally. Good luck with that. So scale it back. Way back. We could never get giant drops of paint to look uniform on a panel, as each would dry at different rates and the individual surface tensions of each drop would dictate the end size of each, and then as they each meet up with their neighbors, the boundaries between them would cause even more of a pattern of texture, creating what we have come to call “orange peel”. I personally would have preferred it be called “golf ball” as that is a more accurate description. So then if we could make the paint into ultra fine drops, applied with enough pressure to get it to the panel before starting to dry, but with a big enough pattern to prevent uneven application appearances on the panel, that would look good, right. Why don’t we have the choice to make a pattern 3 feet tall, to cover a door or fender in one pass, is what I’d like to know. So the mix of air to paint has to be optimized, and that’s a tough call, every single time. High atomization will make for some overspray. Hold your paint gun over a piece of paper with no air pressure applied and squeeze the trigger fully. It will drip liquid paint through the needle part. That’s where the paint comes out. The air comes out of the other holes on the air cap, which in turn dictates the pattern. The ratio of air to fluid dictates the efficiency, and the texture. Most efficient would be to simply pour the paint into the surface, but the coverage would end up uneven. So we must make more even coverage with a fan pattern with air. Too much air means not enough paint, dry and rough texture. Too little air means uneven coverage, runs, too wet for the desired finish. Finding the right ratio is the challenge it is constantly changing and there are too many variables to tell someone else what pressure is best, what distance is best, what speed is best, and what overlap is best. The best thing to do is have a nice big test sheet of paper to check it all out, as shown here, but disregard the numbers on his regulator. To a point. There’s no doubt that 40 psi will be way too much. And that 15psi will be too little. But as he showed here, the pattern matters, and the horizontal pattern will show if too much paint is being applied, by way of runs, or at least uneven runs. Even runs across a horizontal pattern reveals simply too much paint, so tune up the pressure. You could reduce paint flow with the fluid knob, but we want more paint, not less, and few circumstances will dictate such a move, but at the very least, that knob should be turned in till it hits a fully squeezed trigger, otherwise there is too much fluid flow at the slightest pull of the trigger past halfway, which is no good, as that means there might not ever be enough pressure to keep up, and besides, way too much pressure will mean too much overspray, defeating the point of the whole thing. Bottom line? As much pressure as the pattern can take without being “blown out” with the narrow-at-the-waist pattern he described with very little paint in that area. That’s how you know it’s too much psi, and thus volume per orifice size.

I am painting a door panel on my 2015 Ford Escape color is Tuxedo Black, so Metallic. I'm Spray Max's spray can system for applying my paint. Now I have heard that using an Intercoat would help prevent fogging and to help lay out the paint and +metallics in the paint so it better blends with the rest of the body. So my question is can I use your Intercoat clear which comes in a can to apply before I paint and clear my body panel?

Thanks for sharing that very well explained I never do a spray pattern but I should I painted a old car bumper ages ago devibliss gti pro and it came out sand effect

thank you ...learnt something today

Whats an activator can?

Why did you spray something onto it before doing anything else, is that paint, dose it make it stick better? Dose it make it last longer? Dose it make it feel better?

is clear coat a must? what if I want a mat finish?

Great video tutorial

No but my wife is…

I'm trying to solve an issue of solvent pop on my cabinet door. Could you help please? Using urethane enamel, would adding reducer helps with this issue?

Best howto I've seen for this . No bullshit and strait to the point , good results too..awesome thx

Why did you make look so easy? Whats the correct method for dipping at the 30* angle. As in, which part should be dipped in first for proper coverage

Did he said 13 or 14 hp compressor

Epic. Thanks for the info and share

I've got a 100 litre 14.5 cfm compressor but when I try and set the gun to 22 psi just passing air the pressure gauge drops on the gun to 10 psi and opening this reg fully up only gets it to 12psi / doesn't help mich, but the compressor reg I set at 50 psi or fully open it doesn't seem to make much difference, any ideas? Pipe too small or something?? Trying to use 3m 2.0 pps gun help very much appreciated, thanks

is an intercoat just a mix of clearcoat and reducer 1:1?

Great Video! Have question, I know you sanded the part before painting. What grit do you sand with, afterwards when you painted the controller is there no need to sand the painted controller before dipping. Thanks in advance🙂

started my first dip it turned out good but the item itself feels slightly sticky after overnight dry, what are we doing wrong?

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