i have an Joinville Lathe, a South Bend 9 Clone from Brazil, mine uses 8tpi lead screw i have downloaded a Longan Lathe dial from Printables, who are 8tpi too! lets see if works!!! Amazing Video! God Bless you and your Family! Greetings from Brazil!

I like it. -------Doozer

Thanks for your videos im currently doing the same with my tabe may i ask where you got your oil lines from please thanks Andrew

At this point you are supposed to have at least three apprentices .

Hay here is an Idea use some Red Lock tite it might keep the brass and steel mate together. I'm hoping that will work out for you.

At 19:07 I noticed your spindle oilers are empty and shut off , I have the same identical Lathe 15"" model N serail # 58530. I love my Lathe the only thing it does not have, and I wish it did, is a chip catch pan built on it. Watched almost all your videos, pick up some in site on my machine. You show the history of your machine, I went to school in Bridgeport Ct . at Bullard-Havens Tech high school it was named after Bullard Machine tool co in Bridgeport. We had machines donated from Bullard machine tool Co.and Bridgeport machine tool. Keep up the Good work and Thank you for the video content.

Threads per inch on the linear shaft must match the pitch of the gear's circumfrence. Remember pi.

Hi Kevin. When you checked the table with your DTI you had the stylus at the wrong angle. This introduces cosine error. You need the stylus parallel with the table to get a more accurate reading. Best Wishes.

Nice job on another series, DK! I always wanted a tour of your shop and you basically gave one here so that’s neat. Good luck narrowing down your next project 😀 I’ll look forward to what ya have next.

Kevin, you did it! This video has provided some very interesting discussion in which you have unhesitatingly presented both the triumphs and warts of your process. It has also stimulated a number of very pertinent and potentially very useful comments. This series has provided a good look at the complexity of what, on the face of it, seems like such a simple process. Thank you for presenting your work so clearly. Incidentally, I think leaving the inclined front surface unfinished is very appropriate. I designed the straight edge intending that surface and the rear vertical surfaces not be scraped in. Denis

Oh my gosh!!! I know him!!! So cool Dr. T 🎉

Have you seen the Scraping Basics playlist by Stefan Gotteswinter? Well worth watching and he also rebuilds a compound slide in the last two.

Nice job Kevin.

Hey Kevin, I’ve been following along… great series showcasing how tedious it is even with a power scraper! One note: That sunshine directly on the straight edge could probably influence your readings. I know Moore talks about it in their book. Anyway, probably not a huge deal. I hope you keep cranking out great machining videos. I’m here for it. Matt

I welded mine and fly cut the whole table. Very good results.

I love the red and black! Came out nice, Kevin. My OCD would not let me leave that front edge unfinished. LOL!

really dedicated. Congrats

Beautiful Landscape

Kudos there Kevin for your patience and perseverance in seeing that project through. You've definitely got a precision reference instrument now which should serve you well in the future.

You've made wonderful progress. Constructive suggestions: Your carbide grinding disc is way too rough. When I grind the negative ~5deg bevel I like to use 2000 -> 3000 grit diamond wheels at very slow speed (Wd40 lube helps) for the keen edge (go ahead and create the radius and bevel with a course wheel, but use finner and finner wheels to finish the keen edge.) Heavy Dykem makes things easier to see; very helpful for roughing. You'll need less color for your final passes. I've been using a thin tempera paint (Walmart crafts dept) diluted with Windex as both the yellow and blue (use seperate rollers of course). After applying the color, use the palm on your hand (sans glove) and wipe all surfaces multiple times before attempting a print on your plate. You'll feel when the surface plate and straight edge are clean and smooth. I don't recall seeing you "pivot" your straight edge on your plate. This is an important step to prevent false readings and learning the true high spots. One important note that I hope you are not offended by: Your scape marks in this latest video are "scratchy". By that I mean your carbide it not finely honed and thus leaves lots of little gouges. If you were to lap your tool progressively up to 3000 grit diamond, you'd see smoother scrapes and less stoning after each pass. If you want, I'll grind a Sandvik insert for you. Contact: [email protected] I might be able to also bottle up some proper Blue and Yellow Canode marking fluid as well. As you mentioned, "side milling" along the BP's X-axis is preferred due to the notorious table droop. Do you have a copy of Connelly's book? Find it on-line or buy it before you start on the Bridgeport.

Those old photos of your family are great! I love stuff like that. Boy for someone with no patience, you sure have patience when it comes to scraping and sanding😂 The only way I can equate it for my world is preparing fresh herbs when I’m cooking- you def have to commit bc it’s worth it! You’d be good at breaking down a bushel of fresh thyme. 😄

I decided to try out the idea of using a spring-loaded center punch to make divots of similar depths so that one might use them as a guide for heavier metal removal using an angle grinder or belt sander as Kevin showed in his video. Interestingly using the punch with its sharp point not dulled at all produced remarkably uniform divots .016" deep. I wish I could post pics here. But suffice it to say I found a random piece of 1018 steel 3/8" thick and milled off the scale using a sharp 1/2" end mill and fairly slow feed rate to produce a surface that felt smooth. Then I made about 30 divots in that surface using the generic spring punch. Then I returned the piece to the mill and carefully milled off the punched area watching to see how uniformly the divots milled out Amazingly they all seemed to be within .001 of each other. I do think that could be a useful method to guide heavier stock removal. And by dulling the tip, less deep but uniform divots could be made. FWIW Denis

You're not scraping deep enough with your home built power scraper and your carbide should have a much larger radius for this roughing process. In roughing, you should be able to pull up a curl. You are making "chicken scratches", as Richard King would say. Measure the depth of each scrape. Each scrape should be at least 2 thenth's deep. Map out your hollow spots with a sharpie marker, then make enough passes to "scrape down" to that level, then take it over to the surface plate. You are wasting too much time and effort. Denis's castings are pretty nice. I've scraped a few.

Shit man... I woulda tried using the Bridgeport to deal with that... A nice large flycutter, slow feed, even if it didn`t do perfectly, it would have to beat the 24thou starting point... Also, consider using narrower carbide for scraping... The narrower the carbide, the deeper it digs in, and the more damage it can do, but it can be used to great extent to cut down on the time spent, then you take a wide carbide and just level out the narrow furrows made by the smaller scraper... speaking of the plate, oh yeah, i see what you meant some time ago... That is quite some pitting, tho, i suppose that it could be taken out with enough effort, or at least reduced and corrected a bit... Tho, that would require some large diamond laps(a good project idea... some old weights, some diamond dust, a chrome roller, you know the drill)... Kind regards and all the best! Steuss

Hi Kevin. Great story on your ancestry. And your Mom looks great (Happy Mother's day to her!). My Dad just turned 90. The straight edge looks great. I figure you were going to have to do a lot of work on it because of that droop in the table. Your method might be a bit unorthodox, but if it works, it works!

Kevin, you have been amazingly persistent. Good for you! It occurs to me that you might be able to save some time if you had caused your flatness plane to gradually rotate so that the end already in pretty good contact could have been allowed to remain more or less as it was and concentrated on the end in poor contact get the most metal removed there with the middle getting a middling amount of metal removed. As it was, you seemed to have accepted the general flatness plane that first appeared and just slowly raised that plane away from the sole and toward the bow of the SE. I am not sure what I am saying makes sense. But it would be like having the plane of flatness connected by a hinge to the "good" end and then settling and hinging downward with successive passes toward the poor contact end. That might allow about 50% less total volume of metal removal and consequently would have been faster. I know you wanted to use scraper chatter marks as a guide to prevent going too far in any given area. So, I guess you would remove those marks nearly fully on the "bad" end, about half way in the middle and very little if at all on the "good" end. Since early on you were removing 20 thou in some areas I wonder if you could have made divots of uniform depth to guide abrasive removal of metal in quantity. What I am thinking about here would be using one of those spring-loaded center punches to make many divots of more or less uniform depth and then grind down to them. Mind you, I have never done that. By selectively rounding the punch end I think you could likely get it to make a dent pretty predictably to say, .005 or .010 depth. That could allow safe use of your belt sander (with a zirconia belt) to remove more metal in a single pass. It might also make too much local removal more likely. Random thoughts while trying to imagine options. Denis

My 2 cents are it would be nice if you added a grinder and old drill press to your inventory to restore . I am a big fan of watching restorations.you make good videos and I enjoy watching.

Very satisfying to watch that sucker cut away the soft cast iron. Annnnnd there was a shout out to Wooly Willy 😍😍😍😍😍

Kevin, Thanks for taking us along on this journey. You have been very straight forward in sharing both your trials and triumphs and your creative solutions to problems you've encountered. I have often wondered what happens to my castings and it a treat to get a ringside seat for this one. I am looking forward to the next video. Denis

It’s neat to see all of your previous projects around your shop. Not just a fair weather make-em look pretty machinist - you are actually using all of them. Very cool! 😀

Ever heard of a fly cutter?

When I machined my straight edge, I also had the issue with the dovetail edge. My problem was the straightedge moved slightly when I was machining it.

Kevin you certainly do have a beautiful shop. It almost looks sterilized. I certainly commend you for machining that much cast iron and keeping the mill so clean. Sometimes I use oil on a brush just to keep the fine particles of cast iron out of the air and on the ways. i am about to re machine the ways on the saddle of one of my lathes and really not looking forward to the mess that cast iron can make.

That fly cutter at the beginning was maxing out the sketchy meter. 😬

I'm looking forward to how this turns out!

First glance - that table looks like a regular lightweight moveable island. Wow, nope! I’m sure you’d have been hard pressed to find one (“up at 4 a.m. to move a half ton table? Sign me up!”) but ya need a buddy, buddy! Glad you got it where it needed to go.

Kevin, Thanks for your well-made video documenting your hard work and the creativity you used to accomplish a job that is not easy. I am sure you learned much as you progressed through the various setup steps and cuts. I use a little different setup on my BP including a very useful Bridgeport right-angle head. But that still does require swinging the head as you did. The advantage of the RA head is that you can lay the SE on its side and securely 3-point it. Using that method and on my machine (which, by luck was in good condition when I bought it) and a lot of care I can get the sole flat to about .001 or better. Having the SE on its side and using the RA head tends to get around the typical knee mill table rocking and makes a solid but non-warping setup easier. If your sole is out .014" over its length, you might consider using an angle grinder to rough it down to within a couple thou of flat and then start scraping. That is not a technique I have used, but I have seen reports of folks doing that with good results. I think your thoughts about welding up fixtures to support the ends of the casting would get around the need for cutting steps and making the flat on the bow. Only light support would need to be made at the center of the span to keep down chatter. And by finishing with light cuts (.005") and a sharp face mill very little deflection will occur. Careful planning of clamping arrangements to avoid flexing the casting will be your friend as well. I look forward to more in the promised series of videos. Denis Foster

I don't think you will ever get it flat with a bridgeport. Most tables are a couple of .001's out. With any flycutter finish you would be scraping for a year to get it flat. We had 4'x5' surface plates that were out by .0005 and had them refinished by a company that got them close. You need a good 6' grinder that holds a couple of tenths in that distance. I don't want to discourage you but after you go thru all the effort I think you will agree. I think a shop with a grinder like that would do it fairly cheap....then you can scrape.

Great video! I noticed at 10:35 it looks like the saddle gib is extremely loose? either that or its the camera playing tricks on me lol.

Aside from the adventures in machining, I like that you ended your video with a Proverb. We need more people who aren't afraid to show their Christian values to the world!

Machine size and ambitions is an ongoing saga I think all machinists encounter. Then you get a bigger machine and take on even larger size jobs. See a few comments about moving the turret, and yes table sag is a good consideration also. I’d have been inclined to lay it on its side shim and clamp and run an endmill along the face. Just my 2cents from an escaped toolmaker.

Any plans for adding automatic feed to the milling table there Kevin?? Seems like you're having to do an inordinate amount of hand cranking. Maybe a future project. There are some great "home brew" solutions various people have come up with, if you don't want to invest in the commercial mechanism. Just a thought..

I agree with you and MyLilMule. . Seems we never have enough X-Y travel. Last year I added a BP Clone to my collection. I think it is advertised at a 52" table, but I can't remember what the actual work envelope is when I measured it but something around 49 seems to reside in my head. But of course, my head is not always my friend either. LOL I do enjoy your videos and also those of MyLilMule. I've been a subscriber for at least a year. Friendship seems to find its way into the Machinist/You Tube communities. Some would refer to the community as a family. Myself I divorced myself from Television in 2015. I prefer to soak my brain in good healthy knowledge. At age 72 time is short and knowledge is long. .002 is a lot to scrape. You may want to consider first draw filing the high spots before putting on that beautiful 36 x 48 Granite table you just got. I feel cheated when I look at my 6" x 18" Granite or my 18" x 18" cast iron surface plate compared to the 36 x 48 you have.

The challenges of having a small machine for big projects! I think you solved it the same way I would have, by rotating the turret. If it's just a small step, you should be able to step scrape it out. It's going to take a lot of work and a lot of passes, but I think you'll be able to do it. And thanks for considering me a friend, the sentiment is mutual!

Ah, and he has risen! Nice seeing ya back online... Speaking of large surface plates, i need one asap... Tho, i need a shop large enough to fit a large surface plate, what with my current/previous shop being crammed with machines... This is a nice specimen, but i am feeling quite strongly about that 4 point solution... Not because it is a 4 point, but because it is pinpoint contact with a nasty bit of metal straight against the stone... Whoever is responsible for that should be given a free helicopter ride, but that bit of injustice notwithstanding, i would chuck up some 3inch steel stock in a lathe, turned a radius into one face, radius the bolt heads of this stand into that same radius, and have that 3inch steel stock be made into say 1inch thick discs with a few concentric O-ring grooves cut into the other face... That would provide a much healthier support and bearing system to the plate and would have some ``give`` to it, which is supposedly a good thing with a surface plate... The radius-radius contact between the bolts and the discs would also play nice during alignment adjustments... Otherwise, as said, that is a nice plate... All the best and kindest regards! Steuss

Looking forward to that straight edge video!

Just Subscribed, Great Work!

...welding over a wooden floor!? Very brave!! You ain't hurtin! Nice snatch and grab!

Great job! Hope those castors will be holding the weight.

Did you know that you can remove that tailgate in about 30 seconds without any tools?