Hi! The reason is because my other project car is an Audi S4 (5x112) which I have 4 sets of wheels for to run 18" BTCC slicks. I didn't want to have to buy another 4 sets of wheels for the Volvo as well due to space (and money!) so now they're interchangeable between the 2 of them 🙂

@@AndyPonting That's actually a great answer, thanks.

Thanks man! Maybe I'll make a separate Volvo list and Audi list. Good idea thanks!

❤️ you more

Thanks for the nudes x

Thank you buddy!

It's definitely stock! 😂😂

Thanks again! When did you want to swap then?!

@@AndyPonting haha!

No worries! Plan to make another one soon for the Volvo

Thanks man! Now go get that Mazwagen up and running!

@@AndyPonting haha the mazdolf, Ill be back on land in a few weeks then ill try see if it will fit first. then bring on the fab wooo my fav part

Making another soon for the Volvo

@@AndyPonting hehe awsome im going to build a manifold for the vr6 like this is there a claculation for the slits?

All I did was calculate the area of the port sizes combined and made sure the combined area of the slots were greater. Couldn't find any info to give me a steer on this at all but thought there was at least some logic to what I've done.

@@AndyPonting yeah thats fair logic. i did see one guy say the port area is to be 1.5x he size of the TB, but same same really. cheers my man

Thanks! Thruxton was eventful!

Whenever you're ready!

I've not had to walk anywhere yet! 🤞🏼

I had forgotten you had one too! I'm actually really enjoying it!

I'd love to fit a n/a 5 cylinder on itb's into a MK1 chassis one day!

Depending where you are and their availability, it would honestly be a lot cheaper and less of a headache to just buy a turbo model, rather than trying to engine swap!

Yes I used an angle finder and ground the tool to the angle I needed and checked it against the original pulley

I'm not sure if they would, these hubs are actually based on the mitsubishi platform so quite different to the other Volvo cars

@@AndyPonting damn. I’m asking around as while there is some info available, it’s not a lot or condensed when it comes to P80’s. It seems like it has to be dug up as it’s not a very great platform for much. If one has one of the higher end models there are some, but everything else is bits and pieces😅 finding something like what you have in this video would be a godsend if it’s possible to adjust slightly and it could fit the P80’s. Thanks for responding either way👍🏼😄

Thanks Ed! Hopefully you'll see the Mini here soon too 🙂

I also wanted to ask - which brand hole saw bits are you using on your lathe to cut the tubes?

Thanks for the comment! Sorry it's taken a few days to respond! I used Bosch progressor, because that's what I already had. Have used Starrett ones in the past too, and I also tried a Screwfix special (Titan?!) which worked but not quite as good. I liked the progressor because I can put it in the chuck directly without the arbor (unless the angle got too great). I was going to invest in a big 45mm end mill but the hole saw worked so well I didn't bother. There were probably over 100 cuts on the 45mm progressor, and while it's cutting as nice as when I started, I'm still on the first one.

Thank you very much! Appreciate the comment ☺️

Thank you! Cheers!

😊

Yeah they've been quite helpful, which reminds me I need to get another tube ordered up!

That is a genuine worry getting it wrong, as its impossible to fix it if its more than a few degrees out.

I finally mustered up enough courage to take the plunge and measure up and order the roll hoop and bits, Thankyou for informative video really showed the best way to do it. Just wondering what thickness plate did you use to make the mounting boxing from?

@@matty9007 awesome! Feet should be made in 3mm. I'd recommend looking at the MSUK Yearbook (formerly known as MSA bluebook) for guidance on how the cage should be mounted, even if you don't intend on racing.

Thanks man! Can't wait til it's finished so I can finally rest 😂

Thanks man!

Slowly but surely!

Thanks for clicking on a randomer 🙂

This design should promote even flow to each of the cylinders. Despite the standard ports, this should flow quite well, and if I need more I can always cut off the runners to upgrade in the future.

Thanks! Handy to know the proper name for them, might make sourcing them easier in future. 👍🏼

@@AndyPonting I also use them on my fuel lines with no problem. And pretty much on my car everywhere I can use them. 0 leaks, easy to take apart. Last forever

Depending on year, I do *think* there is one that's cross compatible but I'm not 100% certain of that.

I'm still not sold on the air fed mask. I've actually removed the air feed recently and using it as a normal mask, but I have been working on a rollcage where space is really tight so needed to get rid of bulk. The mask itself is good though

Yup! I was considering the use of an SAS valve before I got the alv40

Hi Jeff, sorry I've only just got round to responding to this. Just got to say, this is probably the best comment I've had on the channel to date. It's really nice to know that there are viewers out there that enjoy the content. It is extremely difficult (and I'm probably down playing that) to fabricate, film, present and then edit in a way that keeps enough of the info in, without losing audience interest because it drags on. I'm aware my videos are probably more detail and less "instant satisfaction" than many of the more popular channels, which is a little more niche, but that's what I enjoy watching most myself. Thank you. Really. The KZbin stuff at this level is a thankless task so your positive reaction makes it all worthwhile.

Andy, I’m very glad you saw my comment. You’ve definitely earned my appreciation. I tend to break YT viewers into three main categories: 1. folks with really short attention spans with almost no ability to focus on any subject that has any depth to it, 2. folks with a sufficient ability to focus, but no interest in the type of subject matter on your channel, and 3. folks with a sufficient ability to focus and who are interested in cars, track time, and some of the technical and fabrication requirements involved with improving the performance of any given vehicle you are working on. I, along with the others in category #3, really appreciate the efforts you continue to put into your channel. It’s rare to find someone who is good at track driving, track car prep / setup, fabrication, engine building, talking / describing / presenting / hosting, video capture / editing, all with a good dose of humor thrown in. You’ve got it all !! And, I’m sure most of your other viewers and subscribers would give you the same very positive feedback if they had the time. So please know that I’m speaking for myself AND many others with my feedback. Keep up the great work!!

@@jefflamb5343 People will think I've paid you to say that! 😄 If I come across well on camera, perhaps I'm better at editing than I thought!

I've not used the manifold yet unfortunately, as I'm prioritising the Volvo build. Once that's done, I'll be back on this

Pretty much exactly that

Maybe one day!

It will destroy cats after a while!

I'll give you a live demo next time I see you.

Iv read things about it saying it’s better for the longevity of the con rods which can be damaged by ignition cut anti lag

As @matthewticer8686 has said, I'm also of the understanding that it is kinder to components than alternative ways of antilag, but yes, any antilag is going to get things hot which can lead to failures. Just have to make sure all the safety parameters are set.

Practice makes perfect!

@@AndyPonting lmao -

Hi, I set the machine to around 70a and use a pedal.

I've no experience with diesels but I'm sure an anti lag system like this wouldn't work.

Thanks man!!

I think you "could". The anti lag valve is a very similar design, but I believe it's make to a tighter tolerance for better air tightness. I was going to experiment with a cheap ext WG but then I found a valve for sale for cheap.

Hey man! 🤗

That's some good info, thanks for sharing 👍 I'm quite confident that my issues were a combination of excessive backpressure / heat, and still having factory ring gaps. The engine was already failing with low compression and making excessive crank case pressure. I also hadn't used the 2 step limiter until this video either (I needed a thumbnail, obviously 😂) so the engine issues were present already. Interesting thoughts on the feeler gauge shimming too. I've thought this too, however it's been done extensively in these engines and I don't believe anyone has had that issue. Wouldn't you expect to see horizontal witness marks at the top of the cylinder if this was the case? Andy