Thank you sir. Apprehension is the correct emotion; anyone that goes into these thinking it will be fine is in for a shock! That said, taking a realistic approach would serve you well. The L322 is a complex machine and the parts are NOT cheap but there is a good choice of aftermarket parts these days which may not be as good as OEM but they do make it more affordable. The biggest problem I've found is that people tend to ignore the issues because even if it's a relatively simple part failure, access is awkward so labour charges are high when it comes to repairs Set yourself a budget for the car and put a couple of grand aside for preventative (and of course inevitable) maintenance. Buy the one with the best history and service record you can find. Alternatively, buy something really cheap with a known issue, repair it and enjoy it. If you do buy one, come back and let us know how you got on.

It's long gone now mate. You could make an offer on the 4.4 but I'm kind of attached to it so 🙂 There are good ones out there there but you'll spend on whatever you buy so perhaps have a look at one the needs a bot of work and get it to a nicely sorted state? Good luck.

It's such a beautiful village.

I thought the fuel economy was pretty good on it and I'd expect it to be a lot better than a 4.8 X5. It's fine as a family car and the lack of pillars means it's easier to get the little one in and out of the back if you drop the rear window. I had a coupe version in 2010 when my boy was born and it was just fine. Do your checks on the timing chain pulleys for a 2007 and make sure that EML lights up with the ignition and goes out when you start the car. You can code out the EML on these Mercs apparently and people do that when the timing gears wear too much. Let us know how you get on.

There's no body to remove on a l322.. your taking sports and discos which are body on frame design

Excellent news, glad it helped out.

I use a Brodit Proclip (in pretty much all of my vehicles) no hole drilling required. They aren't the cheapest but they are the best I've found so far. I did a little clip for you to show it a bit better: kzbin.infoI5yYKnHMoDs?si=W8Wj64HBqBJDixz8. At a guess you'll want this one for OZ www.brodit.co.uk/brodit/vehicles/land-rover/range-rover/proclip-for-land-rover-range-rover-0212-rhd/5223. The clip for the car is pretty cheap and you can fit any holder you like to it as you'll see. Not sure what the supply would be like to you, hopefully there'll be some international postage options. Shout out if you need anything more.

I actually watched the video before buying really helped, thanks for that!

Do you have the digital speedo in MPH there all the time? If you do, somebody has changed the coding on the instrument cluster. The coding option should be set by default to something along the lines of "As per Trip Computer" so if you set to KM, KM/H, L/100km then it will put the little digital display in the speedo and it will disappear when you go back to Miles, MPH, MPG. If yours looks like this one in my car where the MPH display is there all the time then I suspect that someone has hard set the display to MPH and it won't change which is extremely unhelpful I did this for you to see the process but as I say, mine has the MPH display coded to be there all the time. kzbin.infozsRKOmiFKOg Don't forget to use the "Tourist Lights" function when you're abroad too, there are some small levers on the side of the headlight projectors to remove the kick up of the beam from the left so that you don't blind oncoming traffic or need to stick those awful things over the lenses.

@ Thanks for that. That is exactly what I have, but if I change the units it only changes the trip info not the small digital speedo. Why would someone do that!!!!!

@@baz4x4r A lack of understanding or forward thinking I expect. Now you have the issue of what to do about it to make it work properly. It's very easy to change the CCF and code it properly BUT if you don't have the tools it's a very expensive small change. Ideally, you want a friend with GapIID that will let you use it and then you'll only need to pay for the licence for your VIN. It's a really useful tool if you're going to own one of these but it puts a dent in the wallet to begin with. A good independent specialist will probably do it for you.

@ thanks. I will ask my independent specialist what they will charge. If it’s too expensive then perhaps a gap tool for Christmas. Thanks for your help. If I do get a gap tool I may be in touch again.

@@i.p.g8428 Thank you. Quite honestly, I wouldn’t let the mileage worry me too much at this point in the car’s age. If you bought one with 50k it may well be original but parts will be perished etc. A high miler now is likely to have had a lot of maintenance to get it to cover that distance. If it’s a one owner car with good provenance then buy it based on its condition. If you know it and the owner that’s even better. It’s all going to come down to price really isn’t it? If it’s cheap enough and you have a pot of pennies to invest in keeping it on the road, I’d say go for it. Whatever you buy you’ll need to invest in I expect and it could make for a good story. Not knowing your circumstances, I’d warn that if it’s cheap due to its mileage and that is how it’s ended up in your price bracket, you’d be better off walking away. These things need a healthy “rainy day fund” and if you don’t have that, you’ll likely end up regretting your purchase. Wait, save a bit more money and then buy one. I’m sure that one of the main reasons these cars get such a bad reputation is because they fall to an “affordable” price point without people realising that although the car was only a couple of grand, they’ll still need to buy parts or manage complexity for an £80k car! Cars get cheaper with age but parts and labour generally don’t.

@@FatNFurious Thank you for your opinion. I am well aware that the costs of running a V8 range rover aren't those of a Suzuki Vitara for example. As you said luxury cars equal luxury manteinance no matter the age of the car (maybe with the exception of the few parts shared with more modest models). In my particular case I have made my mind that I'd like to own a Range Rover (especially after a recent trip to the Cotswolds). Although I like the looks of the newer versions I won't be going for one of those because I find the sweetspot for my needs/desire in older models. I have been reading and watching videos about what to buy and I have narrowed it to an L322, a Range Rover Sport L302 or even a Discovery5, any of them preferrably with the most reliable diesel engine. I own several cars at the moment (two daily drivers and three "classic" cars, one of them I'm finishing restoring at the moment) and the fact is that I do not even need or use a car on a daily basis (I live in a medium sized city with all the services in hand and I do not have to commute for work nor use the car as part of my job). My inital idea is to get rid of my oldest daily (high milleage kind of "beater" with very little value other than the service I get from it) and get the Range Rover for esporadic use on weekends, so I won't be putting many miles in it. I tend to keep my cars for years and if I like them I won't consider selling them unless I really need to. At this point I have been searching the classifieds and among the cars I've seen worth to check, there is this high milleage one. I do not know the owner nor the car and I haven't contacted him yet to ask for further information, but considering the car looks right on the pictures, it's a one owner car with that high mileage advertised as a perfectly running car (I assume that with the original engine as it doesn't say otherwise), it makes me think it must have been mantained, otherwise it would be visibly falling to pieces. The price is lower than the average but not ridiculously cheap. I am not based in UK and the prices for these cars in southern europe are not even near from those of UK, nor the quantity or quality of cars on sale is the same, so I was debating if 270.000 miles were too much to bother checking the car and if I should pass and go for the alternatives (cars around 120.000 miles mostly with several owners already and lost service history). I have also seen a couple of "mint" ones (also around the 100.000 miles mark) but commanding prices around 25k euros that are over my budget for my needs and they still are cars of the same age or around it which are not free from the problems that arise from the age (components degrading) even with less use and regular manteinance, so the idea of spending less on a higher milleage car (given it has the most problematic areas like turbos, egrs, etc. solved) and keeping some budget for the problems that may appear is tempting me, considering also that that high milleage will keep its value quite low for the average potential buyer if I ever need to sell, although the investing aspect is not the biggest factor in my decission.

@ I do honestly believe there’s a lot to be said for maintaining the older stuff and stealth costs can be a factor too. I know it’s quite expensive to register cars in France and I’m fairly sure that is on a percentage of its value too so an older/cheaper one will leave more money for fettling on that part alone. I’d suggest you drive the L320 and the L322 before you chose the L322 😀. We have an L319 Discovery 4 which is utterly excellent and my wife adores it but the L322 is next level for the drivability. Also, if you want the most reliable version, I don’t think you’ll want the 3.0 TDV6/SDV6. They are well documented for snapping their cranks and I personally know someone who went through it with hers which was shortly thereafter written off in a non fault head on collision, she bought another D4 and that snapped its crank a few months later. So far, we’ve been lucky with ours but when (not if) it breaks it will get a remanufactured engine put in as my wife like she’s the car so much she won’t consider parting with it. For me, it’s TDV8 all the way but it’s not an option in the Discovery but weirdly is available in the RRS. I’d consider a 3.6 RRS but it won’t drive as well as a full fat. Let us know how you get on if you do decide to buy one.

@@FatNFurious Thanks again for your suggestions. I also believe TDV8 should be the way to go for me. L320 RRS are a more common sight around here and there is much more to choose on those at more affordable prices, altough maybe the smartest choice for one of those would be the supercharged petrol engine, especially considering I wouldn't be doing that many miles on the car. I am aware of the engine problems on the 3.0 TDV6/SDV6 (in fact many of them are advertised with having replacement engines) and that is why I lean to the TDV8. As the car looks I do aesthetically prefer the L322 over the L320. The BMW 177 bhp engines I don't consider as i find them underpowered for the car that is and the price difference against the 8 cilinder engines is not that big to make me consider them. In the end I think it is going to be an L322 TDV8 (either 3.6 or 4.4 like the ones you've owned) if I can find a decent one inside my price range which could be a bit stretched if justified. And by "decent" I mean one with the least hidden costs and neglection possible being open to higher mileages if it's an honest example. I'll share with the channel what do I finally get, until now I have been trying to target the model I'd prefer and now I have to go through the cars advertised and ask for detailed info, check them in person when possible or have them checked for me, etc. Regards.

@@NeilEdwards-r6z No, it went very soon after the video was released.

I was just about to ask the same thing, I'd love a dark coloured 3.6 with known history.

Thank you so much for the kind words, I really do appreciate it. Keep us up to date on what you decide. I've never owned a Disco 2 and have only driven one a very short distance; they're NOTHING like the D3/4 and very far removed from the L322 but they really do have a certain charm to them.

He's figures for the 3.6 are not right... They don't use much more fuel at all and easily do 40 British mpg .. 45 isn't out of the question. Re mapped the 3.6 has the same power specs and it's also 100 kilos lighter than the 4.4 not that you need any more power than a stock 3.6, I think the 8 speed would be nice but remember it is only an overdrive gear (400rpm less on freeway) and one extra that splits ratios between what would be the normal 6 gears ... Add the extra 100 kilos of weight your not really going to be saving fuel because of it

@ Great reply thanks. Don't think I'll swap my 3.6, only diesel car I've owned where the oil on the dipstick looks like it was changed 10 mins ago (gets done before 5k or six months)

Hmm,...the worst Range Rover was the P38. The L322 3.6 is much much better. But I miss the P38 seats though, they were great. Fun fact: 3.6 V8 har excactly twice the power of the P38 diesel.

😀

My 2008 3.6 has DPF. I used a long drill first, the a hammer and a chisel and now it is open. A computer guy deleted DPF from the software. It all looks original from the outside. EGR is also blocket, and deleted from the software. Use a GOOD protecting mask when hammering out the DPF, that dust is definately not good for your health. Engine now runs very sweet and finds 6th gear quicker than before. 290 000km.