What’s the panel bound? Did you order prefab fiberglass or is this all custom by hand?

@@jimmydiamond75 ordered pre-fabs; bedsides were like 2k and the rockers where cheap; like 300-500 area. Panel bound is what ford decided to use for bedsides / wheel well; so it traps a bunch of salt/sand/dirt in the sandwich layer and rusts the wheel wells out from the inside.

Lol with the 6.2 and a blower thrown on it!

I hear what you’re saying, and I’ve considered it. Unfortunately, I’ve spent so much at this point, on top of paying it off, that to me it seems reasonable if I stretch my limits just a little. I’ve got about $9k in HP engine parts on this , plus another few grand in tires and suspension. I don’t want to have to do all this again!!! And I don’t have $100k for a newer one that will match the performance of this one. I’m going to try a few OG body shops and see what I come up with. Ime older guys are more likely to take on a challenge , and for a better price. These mega shops and younger managers just say “sorry, we don’t do cab corners”, or they say it’s around $12k. Only interested in profit. Also, imo, these have much better built interior, which I know isn’t saying much, but it doesn’t feel like the dash, door panels, console, wheel, and switches came from a toy factory.

I did 100% of the mechanical work myself. Parts , fluids, etc were about $9,000-10,000USD. I work in a shop, but if I didn’t , it would’ve probably been $15-$20,000. That’s just a guess. I worked on it as the parts came in, and when I had time after work. I am almost 50 years old, so crawling around on the ground to do this would’ve been a nightmare. It was so much better having accessibility to a lift.

Make sure you have a good tuner! Stay away from “pre packed “ tunes like 5 star. I use Unleashed, the guys name is Torrie. Best I’ve seen yet and been doing it a long time. At first I used 5 star, it was ok. Then I hired Brew City Boost, which went out of business after sending me a base tune. Just be careful. You’re also gonna need a better CAC, downpipes and exhaust help a lot, a catch can, an intake, and colder plugs. Trust me, you’ll be glad you did. The thing has to breath better than it did w stock!

How are they ? I just ordered a set for my 2015

@@juan_f150 not sure yet, should be getting put in this weekend

@@backcountryboneheads you get em on yet? SOAK SOAK SOAK those old exhaust header studs for a few days, several times during those days. You may as well do them with some BD diesel headers if you’re already pulling the turbos….trust, you won’t wanna go back and do it again lol

@@jimmydiamond75 they are in, I had a shop do it and he actually recommend the bd diesel manifolds so that’s what I did. So far so good, got about 900 miles on them

Exactly. Also make sure to paint the hole so the exposed metal from drilling doesn’t start to rust. I’ve seen many guys use rubber grommets like a Jeep has in Jeep floorboards. Personally I would swap out the nozzle on a can of rust oleum with one that can utilize a straw (like on Wd-40) and shoot a bunch up inside as well after your certain it’s dry. There’s also many products that are made for sealing interiors of body panels, check out body shop supply stores.

The boost comes on in a flash, kinda like a late 80’s 944 turbo or a 930. It’s sudden but it kicks!

Is it worth the upgrade ? I just ordered a set for my 2015

@@juan_f150 Yes,

@@jimmydiamond75 you need to tune it correct ? I already got them installed and its feels alittle slower on them then stock , almost like its bogs down at full throttle

@@juan_f150 also, it’s bogging because it’s trying to make adjustments based on stock turbos so it’s confused. Just tune please

Torrie, the guy who owns Unleashed, is a perfectionist. He’s responsive and highly skilled.

It’s the only company that utilizes ALL the exhaust manifold studs, 11 instead of 8. it’s called BD Diesel. Even thought they’re primarily known for high performance diesel parts, they made this for the Ecoboost gas engine with high silicone content, and made to resist the heat and weakness that destroys the factory ones, or manifolds based on factory like CRP, which I’ve seen warp at 10k miles. I also built for longevity, and don’t want to put on a new set next year lol. Here’s a link: us.bddiesel.com/products/exhaust-manifold-driver-side-ford-f-150-3-5l-ecoboost-2011-2016

would u beleive me if i said i still have factory manifolds studs still intact i have a 10/2015 f150 just turned 150k

@@TheLawlessGang Sure! mine didn't blow until 158k! And thats with running a 93 race tune for 100k of those miles!

I think it’s because they don’t show visible dirt and gunk as much as darker colors, so people don’t wash them as often as they should. That’s just my theory

@@jimmydiamond75 makes sense to me.

EIN FAHRZEUG JEDE WOCHE IN WASSER ZU ERSÄUFEN,MACHT FÜR MICH KEINEN SINN .🤔🤔🤔

It’s my daily driver!

Awesome! My 2013 is very similar to yours! 5 Star Tuning Big Turbo 93/E30 Performance Tune & Perf Tow Tunes NGK Ruthenium HX 90495 Spark Plugs S&B Cold Air Intake System Full Race Front Mount Intercooler Full Race Cold Side Pipe Full Race 20 Row Trans Cooler Full Race Formline Exhaust Manifolds Full Race Inconel Exhaust Manifold Studs Full Race Billet Turbo Adapters Garrett PowerMax Stage 1 Turbos SPD 3" Catted Downpipes SPD 3" SS Resonator Delete SPD 170* Thermostat JET Performance Throttle Body UPR Dual Valve Catch Can TurboSmart Mechanical BOV MishiMoto Silicon Radiator Hose Kit Not alot of built Gen1s on KZbin so I appreciate your videos! I need to do some videos on mine!

​@ProjectAjax how much hp and torque ? I ordered the same turbos for my 2015 ecoboost , passenger turbo gave out , they are currently getting installed at the moment, what's your 0-60? And are the new turbo noticeable on stock tune ? And sre they louder ?

@@juan_f150 it’ll run very poorly without other mods, and just terrible with no tune. I had a difficult surgery I’m still recovering from, so I’m still dialing out my tune, but I’m at about 5-6 0-60. But, I replaced and upgraded every single thing I could, even a HP oil pump. I spent a total of around $9k in parts and did the work myself at my shop.

@@jimmydiamond75 thank you ! I already got them installed and the truck does seem too pull less then stock turbos at the moment, its has a strong kick to it when you full throttle it but it feels like it just bogs down like the psi is limited, , i assume i would need to tune it to make it faster and perform better?

“Planned obsolescence “ is the term and yes I have witnessed it time and again. How about BMW claiming “lifetime transmission fluid”….according to them lifetime is 100k miles. Just total shit. As a mechanic I really get disturbed when someone brings in any car and says “well the salesman told me they only need oil changed every 15k miles!” It’s pitiful.

What differences have you noticed with the Garrett turbos? Did you also do any other mods or tuning? Just curious bc it seems like we’re a rarity 😂

$6k 🥲

What state are you in? I could only find one place wiling to tackle it in STL.

Did you find a place easily, and does $6k include paint? Happen to have any pics of before and after?

I’ll do one soon, and thanks for reminding me. I accidentally ran over my laptop (🤦🏻‍♂️) so all my tunes and logs were lost, but I just got a new one this week, so I’ll be back into tuning it. I did make a 750 mile round trip and averaged 17.5mpg which is a good jump from what it used to get.

By ALL MEANS replace every single thing while you’ve got it apart. They’re not easy to access in the least, you’re better off doing preventative maintenance than waiting til something fails.

@@jimmydiamond75 that's the plan. I was going to replace manifold hardware. Which then had me considering the BD diesel manifolds as well. And of course the upgraded stainless coolant lines. Did you ever get farther into the tuning process?

I’ve seen a few of them have that happen, but that is due to the duct-tape they chose to cover holes with underneath instead of using rubber or silicone grommets. It really is sad that there’s an automotive engineer out there that’s high ranking and says “sure, tape is good enough”.

Same here, no sunroof

@@Dsmwarrior1996 Cab 3rd light drain I think goes down there

@@Zinit I’m pretty sure the 3rd brake light doesn’t have a drain, that usually seeps down the back as the result of the gasket becoming dry and cracked.

@@jimmydiamond75 I didn't see one when I replaced mine. No rust issues here I just wanted to update my truck with blacked out lenses all around. It still looks as good as when I bought it in 06. I'm just no ever going to be willing to spent the money on a new one! The main reason these and others rust is the sound deadening junk they squirt up in there and the rear wheel moldings. It gets wet or even humid, wet is wet. A little salt and there ya go. If mine ever rusts like that I will do the steel patch panels and body work myself. I've seen plastic ones that even come with the paint! Cut the rust out, coat everything with some Eastwood rust encapsulator and the panels glue on. Color matched. There is a guy on here from Canada that did them and it is pretty good and costs hundreds vs thousands.

Great plan and I was as stunned as you probably were the first time I had it on a lift and saw peeling black duct tape 🤬🤬🤬 unbelievable

Just tapped on mine other day, have same hole just driver side tho. Was covered with anti chip paint. Unless light leaked, didn't look like it, replaced the gasket, sliding window seal may have let water in otherwise IDK, maybe the vinyl strips on roof leaked? Passenger side is solid and both rockers I treated. Reached in tool bucket, grabbed my tin snips and cleaned it up. Time to dial in new Lincoln mig, Miller was stolen, worked great on sheet metal. Got handful of galvanized sheets off the job site ready to be used. I'll get a little phosphoric acid in there and maybe try weld through primer over it I saw on here. Oh and gonna drill a 1" access hole behind it to rust proof it or whatever needs to be done afterwards.

Completely agree. I wonder if there was a class action lawsuit?

No, that’s why Ford switched to aluminum. What’s Chevy and Ram made from? 😂

My Ram is doing slowly doing this

Precisely. God forbid they go the extra mile! I still can’t believe there’s a department at Ford that passes this off as a completely fine manufacturing process.

Then you’ll still have probs, although not as bad, and not as soon, bc they literally used black duct tape to cover the holes in the lower cab, supposedly “sealing” it from water infiltration. It was a total fumble for the engineers. Just terrible.

@@jimmydiamond75 yes I’m pretty much done with ford at this point being a lifelong ford guy all American sucks next Truck will be Toyota

@@americanchauvinist1210 I feel the same way at this point. I rented a 2021 F150 Limited with the messaging seats and all that, but everything felt kinda cheap compared to my 2012. I rented a 2021 Tundra, and all I thought was “all this needs is a supercharger and maintenance, and I might die before it does”…. I originally bought my F150, the first Ford I ever personally purchased and owned, because the Ecoboost was supposedly ok on gas and supposedly easily modified….nothing has been easy nor has it been economical. You can see my other couple videos for my build; I’ve literally improved everything possible besides the HPFP. I get 18mpg highway and about 9-10 city. It’s fast as hell now, and can tow a house, but a $12k body shop quote on a 10 year old truck is ridiculous and could’ve been prevented with proper engineering.

​@@americanchauvinist1210ICH BEHAUPTE DAS GEGENTEIL . BEI REISKOCHERN WIE TUNDRA ODER TITAN,PLATZEN DIE MOTOREN BEI WASSERDURCHFAHRTEN. ...😂😂😂😮😮 MEIN FORD HAT MEHR ALS 400 K KM UND KEINE!!!!!!!! REPARATUR.....NUR ÖLE,FILTER,BREMSBELÄGE&SCHEIBEN .

Another good point! Somehow that didn’t happen on mine.

Also, check out the holes underneath on the inner side of the rocker panels….they used freaking duct tape instead of grommets🤦🏻‍♂️ I mean really, how cheap can they possibly be?!?! 😂

Lol

I’ve actually heard of this but never seen it

Since it’s a 2012 it has a recirculating BOV on each turbo ; shoots the air right back into the intake pipes instead of VTA. The theory is that it can get the impeller spinning more quickly. So, each turbo has a BOV that routes excess back into turbos after about a foot of plastic tubing. My next one will be a 2018^, and throw a tune a meth kit on it for $1k, or a V8 with a $8-10k blower setup. Too much to go wrong to easily on the 2011-2012.

Nip it in the bud before you’re also looking at new inner and outer rocker panels! IF you’re even able to find a shop that will touch it, it’s expensive as hell, and the results are rarely perfect.

This was the first base tune on a new build, and Unleashed is very, VERY incremental in how they tune. I’m currently on the 10th tune, small adjustments made each tune. Anybody can build a tune that’ll shoot fire out your pipes and get huge WHP numbers, but my build is for not only performance, but also reliability and longevity. So, to get that perfect combo it takes time, patience, a lot of communication, and most of all a highly skilled tuner. Hell, I’ve heard of guys going through 50+ tune adjustments before they had it dialed in just right and exactly how they want it. I had a 93 “race tune” lol from 5* on my stock turbos for about 40,000 miles. It was fun, but this is capable of so much more.

@jimmydiamond75 I use MPT and they build tunes and have you data log and they'll fine tune it for you. Pretty much the same lol I have the same turbos just haven't put them on yet so wondering what they'll do.

Sadly, Torrie at Unleashed informed me that my wastegates aren’t sealing 100%, so the Garrett’s aren’t “factory adjusted” every time. Now I gotta get in there and adjust the armatures, which really sucks. I wish I would’ve checked this before installing them. I recommend doing so. I can say that I know 3 other guys running this setup, and it’s mid 13 sec 1/4 without pushing them to full extent.

I agree, but my stocks had a canned 93 tune from 5* and it was faster……but this tune isn’t completed yet. Unleashed likes to do adjustments in small increments .

@jimmydiamond75 thanks for the info. I hope they do better than that my truck on stock turbos and 33s (tires) ran a 12. 2 in the 1/4

The 2012’s didn’t have BOV’s. They had a recirculating BOV system where the extra pressure that would usually VTA was instead rerouted to give the impeller a little help winding/spinning up, in an attempt to decrease turbo lag. The blue hoses that came with your turbos are for connecting the “turbocharger bypass valve”, Ford P/N BL3Z9K378A. There’s one on each turbo, wrapped in heat shielding silver fabric. There is also one on top of the engine where the vacuum lines from each turbo meet and make a “T” with a 3rd running off. I would replace these at install bc the wheel well liners are a bitch to get out and you can put them on before install…but if it goes bad after install, you’re spending a few hours unnecessarily. Lastly, the coolant lines will drive you mad. Instead of removing the E clip from the jiffy tite fitting, just get all new jiffy tites, and unscrew them with a thin 19mm from the back of the block with the coolant line still installed, and replace the lines and fittings with the new install. I have pics I can send you that will help immensely. I’ll try to figure how to send them to you.

If you send me an email address here I’ll send you photos of the blue lines and where they go. I can’t figure out how to PM you 🤷🏻‍♂️

What happends if you dont install them ? Mine didnt come with a blue hose , mines a 2015 ​@jimmydiamond75

I believe the only time I was able to find measurement info it was like 62mm and 78mm, but don’t quote me on that. All I can say for sure is the inducer/exducer are quite a bit larger, which is why I moved up to 3” stainless downpipes from CVF. AMS turbo adapters match up perfectly, and they’re the biggest around.