@Aidan.17 Expensive could mean that it has a warranty, too. It's worth looking into.

@@mmunoz1379 yeah i took it back it was over 3 years old and they swapped it for a new one no questions asked 👍

I don't know who Richard Feynman is, but thank you for the compliment. I'm glad I could help.

@@mmunoz1379 one of the greatest minds of all time but able to explain stuff to anyone.

@@FordTransitvan I'll be looking him up when I have time. Thank you.

It shouldn't need one. It would be a good idea to test drive it before and after the repair to compare.

​@@mmunoz1379thank you! I ended up popping the lower ball joint out of the knuckle and left it attached to the control arm, and had just enough room to get everything in and out without having to disconnect the stabilizer. Driver's side inner boot caught a trailer hitch on the highway in the dark, and it took it a bit to lose all the grease. Test drive after was smooth, and steering was as close as it's ever been (150k miles and counting).

@@Tiezane I'm glad everything worked out for you.

I'm glad this guide helped. Is this the washer that goes behind the axle nut?

Awesome! I'm glad I was able to help you out.

You're welcome.

You're welcome!

It can be, just know that I'm in FL and I don't have to deal with any rust.

@@mmunoz1379 likewise

Is there any seals that need to be replaced?

This video was done on the fly. Mistakes were made. 😂 Ultimately, the job was done. A lot of viewers thanked me for this one.

@mmunoz1379 I appreciate the guide as well! Our brains work very alike in that way, lol. Say 7, take 7 out! Thanks bud!

@@FuskyTheHusky81 🤣

No, go to 3:30 in the video. You can do it that way, taking out the strut bolts, but with the way the suspension is set up, I find it easier to remove the three bolts on the lower control arm to separate it from lower ball joint. If you think about it, you just need the knuckle to move to take the axle out of the hub. I did this easily, as shown in the video. If the lower ball joint was set up differently, then I may have done it by removing the strut bolts.

I would but you still need to be careful. Experience is really helpful here. You want to hit it back on so that the fastener is tight but not too much so that it strips out the screw head and is harder to remove in the future. Hope this gives you an idea. Good luck.

In the United States. 🇺🇲

You can buy them online. Just search for manual impact driver.

It's really a matter of preference. You definitely can do it the way you're asking about but watch at 3:30 how I move the assembly out of the way easily. Thats why I went with it. It all depends on how the steering and suspension are set up. On different vehicles, depending on how the lower ball join is set up, I may have used the method you went with.

There are similarities between them with a few variations. These covered a broad range of years in a lot of Rangers and Explorers. 4R44E, 4R55E, 5R44E, and 5R55E.

As long as you use the correct bit, you should be fine.

The passenger side has something attached to it called a half shaft or jackshaft. Usually attached with about 2 or 3 screws. These screws will have to come out to remove the axle and the half shaft as an entire assembly.

@@mmunoz1379 yeah the half shaft or intermediate shaft, 3 bolts just hold on the cover, it was still stuck and didn’t come out. Have to replace that shaft as well and it’s a huge pain to locate the part

@thomas hawkins I was looking for that term. Intermediate shaft. What year vehicle?

@@mmunoz1379 2015

I'm not sure why this would happen all at once, but all the codes may be related. To be certain, I would have the car scanned first, for direction, and go from there to determine a fix.

Sounds like broken or disconnected ABS sensor? I know when I did CVs on my Subaru Outback, I had to be careful to pull that sensor (simple) before pulling the axle, or the axle might shear it off. ABS & Cruise not working sounds like a sensor disconnected or damaged. Other warning lights often follow the initial problem.

You probably messed with the abs sensor attached to the wheel. The wire may have shorted. The same thing happened to me. A mechanic fixed mine but forgot to hook the abs properly, leading to the wiring scratching the wheel and Shorting. I replaced the abs sensor and all is well. All lights are gone.

I appreciate the feedback. Thank you. I do want to let you know that a pry bar may also work in place of the cv axle tool. The only reason I used this tool in the video was due to the rounded part of the axle. I couldn't get the pry bar to grab the axle. This may save you some time. Good luck. Let me know how this works out for you.

Thank you Adrian

Thanks, I don't like the five minute intro videos either.

If it is, at least you found out.

@@mmunoz1379 And it was my issue, lol. Thank you

@@3rdzodiac glad I could help out

A lot of this would apply to many vehicles. I don't have a 2017 to know this for sure but go to the description and torque specs. It says 2015-2019. Hope this helps

At the time the front struts were bought from Rock Auto unloaded. So I had to compress the spring to do the job. I'm not a fan of doing the job this way cause its dangerous. Ive been hit by a spring that came out of the spring compressor tool in the arm and it was very painful. I'll still do them if I have to. I do not remember the exact amount at the time. One of the benefits of doing them this way is that the spring is already seated and the ride height is usually not affected. One of the cons could be that the spring may make noise over time or may already be making noise. With a loaded strut assembly there is the possibility that the ride height is higher than a factory strut assembly and will need time to seat properly. Its not very appealing to the eye either.

@@mmunoz1379 how long does it usually take to sit

@@crazikidgaming5326 I had a car that took a month for the springs to seat on a loaded pair of struts.

The pin? Im assuming youre talking about the spiking the axle nut. That axle nut should be torqued down prior to spiking the axle nut to secure it in place. If you have a pin, same thing, that axle nut needs to be torqued to specs and the correct hardware needs to be used to secure it in place. If you are experiencing vibration during acceleration, could be a bad axle, the axle nut could be loose, or could be bad engine or transmission mounts.

I don't really know which one you're talking about but I will assume that you are talking about the slide hammer and adapter for the cv axle. 57033 is the part number for the slide hammer. It can be rented from AutoZone. 57058 is the part number for CV axle puller adapter but its too small for that job. In the video, I show what size it needs to be for it to work. If you rent tools from AutoZone and you have them for more than 90 days, they're yours. Thats what happened to me so I modified mine to work instead of renting the correct size. Hope this helps

I actually bought a small prybar for 4$ from harbor freight and a 3 lb hammer, did the trick

@@franchisebarber1017 Typically I would use a prybar but since the cv axle design was curved and not squared, I used the method in the video.

I used a crowbar on my Outback. Was a little worried to break something, but it popped right out, no problem.

It should be similar. I do not have the car with me to check. I do know that the passenger side cv axle is longer than the drivers side but a lot of the information provided still applies.

Same thing. Just longer

Thats what Im here for. Glad to help out

​@waveydavey5746I love the greedy mechanics. Because of them I learn more and more about fixing my car everyday. I always give them a chance for convenience purposes, once they give me the crazy quote, I thank them and tell them to have a good day. I make my way to KZbin and with enough videos I've been fixing all that's wrong with my car one by one. It's even exciting to the point that I'm looking forward to what will break next so I can learn something new.

I really don't know what you are working on and I could only give you an opinion. I don't know what the condition of the motor shaft or screw are. If the item you were working on was in front of me, then I could probably tell you something. I'm not going to try to sell you something without knowing for sure. It's best you make a decision on your own cause you are in front of the item you are working on. Hope this helps.

@@mmunoz1379 I want to remove pulsator from my washing, but the screw that holds motor shaft with the pulsator is too tight to unscrew with normal screwdriver. I don't have a power tool. Should I use electric drill or it should be good with manual impact screwdriver.

@@firdauszainudin7118 based off of what you are telling me, I would use the impact screwdriver with the correct bit. The correct size bit will make the difference. A wrong size bit will damage the screw. Now the other question is....is it reverse thread or standard thread? Good Luck!

Im glad I could help.

Glad to help

These are not quick struts. We couldn't find any at the time either.

Thank you looks like gotta get a spring compressor

@@amcrebelfan I just updated the description. It has a link to the spring compressor tool that I used from AutoZone.

@@mmunoz1379 thank you

@@amcrebelfanyou're welcome