At 15:38 in the video it shows exactly that. Here is a link to another video as well. You can also go to the Crossfire Forum Facebook page and look in the Files section and I have the written instructions with pictures for download. It's not rocket science - just look at the numbers that are printed on each female connector on the main ignition connector in the car. Then, use my cross reference that shows which color wire on the push button start kit goes to each numbered female connection. It's paint by the numbers. www.amazon.com/photos/shared/7QDK1dgBQDKFYNtKlmJ7AA.SDxR27bbgagXudTtIR9IhB

You bet! I just want people to see it's not complicated, no hacking into the factory wiring is required and it is easy to setup.

@@bradmorgan911 Very helpful visual to see the connections by their number too.

Totally generic. The kit I installed, as mentioned in the video is not available now for some reason but the kit on the left that has the antenna and the active fob system is available on Amazon. www.amazon.com/BANVIE-Anti-Thief-Immobilizer-Keyless-Protection/dp/B076BCX85B/ref=sr_1_6?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9._G2Oj-EK9waXUclyLGyzMBaE_PL5Pr9nvQW5cktI5XxswkTXJ7b4o0zl3M-8uH0___V9Rq6aNWO8LZaFFyUVq0FDFnZhQIP0aseB7KGzfykq0ptesR5XQJ7lWNeaqQT7zIL2Z6hrsRrbxPh6xKb9QHdcZA-rSnPmCC9Y1sgFp5O5Ker_8ks9bbH3WgzjgSBqWPOSx64k74B0FPi70w_RnVllZ3Oh687v870IDF-aFNo.O3uu5AYFAHA6bHR6WCC1ahuPW5b6UxDn-GUtFCbhkDQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=banvie%2Bpushbutton%2Bstart&qid=1724615068&sr=8-6&th=1

Hope it helps!

Yes, because the sticky key is caused by a failing or worn plunger and spring in the ignition assembly. To install this remote start, you remove the ignition assembly so the sticky key is eliminated. If you do this I would suggest you get the updated version of the pushbutton start kit. I bought one for a different vehicle recently and the new kit has passive RFID mini fobs so you don't need to hide the pushbutton start antenna in the cabin and use your fob to wave in front of it to activate it when you want to start the car. The updated version with the passive fobs is just like the system in the new cars where you just have to have the fob in your pocket and it will communicate with the pushbutton start module. Works like a champ and is only $28 on Amazon. www.amazon.com/dp/B0BBNCG49L?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

@@bradmorgan911 ..thanks for the info and update

You actually get more oil out when extracting from the top than you do draining it from the bottom. This is the way the dealerships do the oil change as well. So many uninformed people on the forums are always chirping in that "No way you can get all the oil by extracting from the top." Absolutely not true. One of our Crossfire members on the forum had to do maintenance on two Crossfires where he was replacing the oil level sensor so he had to drop the oil pan on each car. So he used that to experiment and compare. Before removing the oil pans, on one car he extracted the oil from the top and on the other car he drained the oil from the bottom. Then he dropped the oil pans and checked to see how much oil was left in the pan. There was almost no oil in the pan of the car that he extracted the oil from the top. The pan from the car that was drained from the bottom had more oil left in the pan. It wasn't much, but 3 or 4 ounces but it was more and that's because of the baffles in the oil pan that hold some of the oil and it doesn't go out the drain hole. So this method is valid and superior. There's a reason the dealerships do it this way.

@@bradmorgan911 Thanks for the quick reply. I will give that method a try. Is there an oil extractor that works very well that is recommended? Thanks.

Thank you. I was really surprised someone had not posted this method of removing the dash before. All I heard about was people busting their knuckles trying to do this.

No, the SKREEM is still there. I have done the PB start on several of our Crossfires now. The first one I just took the transponder chip out of key fob, taped it to the ignition antenna ring and then ziptied those behind the dash. It worked fine except for the fact that I couldn't lock the doors with the remote for about 15 minutes after I shut the engine off. The reason is that with the chip taped to the antenna ring, it was communicating with the SKREEM and so the SKREEM thought the key was still in the ignition and wouldn't allow the doors to lock with the remote. I could lock the door with the key but I couldn't lock/unlock the hatch. After about 15 minutes the system would go to sleep and the chip and the SKREEM would stop communicating and then I could use the remote to lock/unlock the doors and hatch. So, after experimenting I now send the SKREEM and ECU to The Mercedes Swap Shop (you can find them on FB). They do a "key delete" which means they reprogram the SKREEM and ECU to disable the SKREEM immobilizer function which means the transponder chip is no longer needed to start the engine - just the cut key or in my case the PB start button. But the SKREEM also controls the remote lock/unlock functions and works with the central locking pump and the so now I can shut then engine off and lock the doors immediately with the fob. Works fantastic. The PB start kit is about $25 on Amazon and takes about an hour to install and the way I did it I did not cut or splice into any of the factory wires. If you go to the Crossfire Forum FB page or the Crossfire Tech and Rescue FB page and look in the files section I have uploaded the step by step instructions on how to do it.

@@bradmorgan911 Awesome, thx for the info. I am struggling with sending out the skreem as my xfire is my daily driver. I am not sure if I could be without it long enough to do the work of a delete. I'm just afraid that if my only key breaks, I'm screwed.

@@michaelbateman7084 If you haven't done it already, my advice is to rent a car for a few days and send the SKREEM to The MSS. They are located in CA and I don't know where you are but usually the turnaround is 24 hours and sometimes same day. So you would only be without your Crossfire for whatever the mail time is back and forth plus one day. I have done this probably 8 or 9 times with The MSS and I live in AZ so the mail is usually 2 days there and 2 days back so I always get my stuff back within 5 or 6 days. You could rent a beater for a week and you would be golden. You can install the PB start unit without doing the key delete but just be aware as I stated above that you won't be able to lock the doors with your remote for 15 minutes or after you shut the engine off. You can still lock the door with the cut key. On the other hand, if you do the key delete you never have to worry about your fob or key, really. You won't need the RFID chip once the key delete is done so you could start the car with just the cut key (if you don't do the PB start install), and if you happen to break that key you can go to any locksmith and for $15 they can cut you a new metal key.

Same o2 not ready on mine

I sold this one a while back so no chance to get a ticket. But I replaced it with a 2005 Crossfire roadster 6-speed that has an SRT-6 engine in it. It's quicker than the V8.

what ext/int color is she? how are you liking it 3 months in? any mods?

Negative. Mercedes changed the spec for the M112 engine to 5W-40 several years ago. The original factory spec was 0W-40.

Yup. Fellow Texan here. Replaced my starter before getting it inspected. Can't get the Cat and Evap to be ready. Almost up to 300 miles later and still not ready

This sounds like a good idea. I will give it a shot

So, it's been seven months. What do you think?

I did it 2 or 3 times in one day. But all that didn't matter in the end. It was the cold start that I needed to get the final monitors to clear and I couldn't get that in Phoenix in August. So when I drove to Prescott, spent the night, came out early the next morning when the temp was in the 50's and started the car, that did the trick. When I got back to Phoenix the final monitors had cleared.

Thanks. I didn't realize you had watched this video so disregard the link I sent to this.

Bought the kit with slave and master as well as the clutch pedal from Modern Driveline. www.moderndriveline.com/

It allowed me to run a standard clockwise rotation water pump and it also had a boss in it for the dipstick so it could go into the front of the oil pan just like the original 65.

@@bradmorgan911 if you dont mind me asking what water pump did you use to achieve the passenger side outlet? the 289 pump is counter clock rotation correct?

@@MrBigal123123 Don't mind at all. But it's been a couple of years since I did the build and I sold the car a year or so ago so I am trying to remember all. Here is a link to a water pump that will work. Any standard water pump for a 65 Mustang 289 will work. Also, I will post a couple more replies below with links to videos of my build that may help you if you are doing this. www.amazon.com/Gates-43072-Water-Pump/dp/B000EPZBD2/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3GPAN4OWCTXXU&keywords=1965+ford+mustang+289+water+pump&qid=1680389603&replacementKeywords=289+water+pump&sprefix=1965+ford+mustang+289+water+pump%2Caps%2C140&sr=8-1&vehicle=1965-54-688------------&vehicleName=1965+Ford+Mustang

@@MrBigal123123 Here's another video link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pHuao6mFr9V0hdE

@@MrBigal123123 And another link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rKSngoSHe9Frn9E

I went to grad school at OU but am not from there. I worked for OU for 10 years but currently live in AZ.

Thanks! Now I just need your magic on the SKREEM and I will be good to go!

See the Amazon link in the comment below.

Wow. I forgot about this video . I've since sold the car but I wound up pulling the engine and replacing it with a rebuilt ATK engine from Jegs and I had it painted adn put different wheels on it. The seats on it if I remember correctly were ProCar Scat 80 seats.

I appreciate the response. I have a ways to go on mine. I’ve set a goal of 2yrs or when the money disappears………. Very nice mods done on the FB. I have a C code. Fun and rewarding restoring classic’s. Wish you the best on your future project’s.

@@ripburroughs It is very rewarding. I got into Chrysler Crossfires about 18 months ago and have had 10 of them now. Still own 3 of them and they have become my passion but I did just buy a vintage 81 Toyota pickup. Best of luck on the FB!

No. I just had to grind off the broken part of the tube on the outside of the neck and then sand it smooth so the O ring on the repair tube would fit flush. The sleeve and insert is installed on the inside of the neck and it fit fine so I didn't have to drill anything. Really a quick and easy install and it works great.