That’s a question out of my wheel house

Yes it did actually. After I removed the old cat, you could see the material was just loose, bouncing around in there.

Oh yeah! Good racing out there. These old videos are a trip to watch! My riding has gotten a lot better since then

@@Kyegar have you been racing lately?

@@Little450guy yeah! we raced together at Castlerock Friday. I’m the one that was on BT93 old bike. Bronson was talking to us in staging

@@Kyegar OOH CHAP I DIDNT PUT 2N2 TOGETHER

Are you taking about removing the pivot from the fork or the transmission itself? It’s been awhile since this job but I may be able to help

@@Kyegar yea!! Mine broke the same way yours did and I’m not sure how to get it out. I ordered the clutch fork set (with the pivot ball) and it should arrive soon. Did u have to drill a hole into the pivot ball and then take it out like that? Or did you use a different technique? These bolts are in there pretty good and it would be a shame if I rip the threads or something like that

@@Kyegar I’ll do this here on Monday or Tuesday. I believe I can just drill the hole and possibly turn it then

@@everythingtrending8392 oh I gotcha. There’s a couple tricks you can do. The good thing is the head of the bolt most likely snapped with it, so it’s just the threaded part in there, so there’s no actual tension on the threads. It should spin out fairly easy (hopefully). First I’d start by getting a dremel with a cutting wheel, and cut a slit into the snapped bolt, essentially turning it into a flat head bolt. Try backing it out with a flat head screw driver. If that doesn’t work, you could either weld a nut onto it (welds will only stick to the steel part, not the aluminum tranny) and then use the welded nut as a bolt head and back it out. Last, you could drill a small hole into it and use a bolt extractor that will thread into the drilled hole and back it out. Hope this all makes sense! There should be tutorials online for this, you’d just have to get creative with what you search! Good luck!

@@everythingtrending8392 and yeah I’d definitely recommend the updated style pivot bolt and clutch release fork

Thanks! I’ve been racing the pro am class for awhile now and have realized this! Especially in the amateur classes, if you give someone a tire, they will usually let off or make a mistake

No, In flat track there’s no front brake. As far as I know, there’s no benefit to no front brake, just an old rule that’s made it to today’s racing.

@@Kyegar I just bought a 450 turned supermoto and it didn’t have a front rotor but has the caliper could I just add a caliper? Sorry I’m new to these bikes

@@AJV4L2007 yeah I don’t see why not. Weird that it didn’t come with the rotor! Pretty sure every form of supermoto racing uses the front brake.

@@Kyegar I do know the guy had just traded the original dirt wheels and tires for these excel wheels and sumo tires. Maybe the rotor didn’t fit the original dirt caliper or something I’ve not had any luck talking w the guy yet

@@Kyegar I’m so dumb the bike has a caliper not a rotor lol. Like breaks and caliper are there but no rotor

Basically yes. You preferably want a 2.5” rim front and rear. But it’s not unheard of to throw the rear rim on the front hub and put a 2.5” rim on the rear

@@Kyegar I’m from Finland and I have not found 19’ wheel to front so any information where I can find one? Thanks!

Yeah for real. I’m glad I noticed it was running weird and shut it down. Saved a ton of money and a headache!

@@Kyegar yeah fr! Cases would've costed alot I have a 2018 yz250f with a high compression piston with a all stock bottom end, so sooner or later im gonna do a bottom end rebuild so that it doesn't happen to me

For flat track, my bike is setup with 19x2.5 front and rear and Dunlop dt3 130/80/19. There’s a few flat track tire manufactures, all with different compounds and tread pattern. Mitas, Dunlop, shinko and Hoosier to name a few! Shinko being the most affordable, bang for your buck.

Okay thanks for the info

Yeah I’ve heard the same. Ideally you’d want to drop the pan, but what I did was use that clear plastic from clamshell packaging, and shape it in a slight cone, and wrap it around the crankshaft. Put grease on the lips of the seal, and slide it over the plastic, and it’ll slide onto the crankshaft. It was risky but I was confident and it ended up never leaking! Hope that makes sense