I've heard that being an issue for some people, so they've used a cap or just left a canister on to prevent that, but mine doesn't have that issue, so I assume it has a one-way valve in it

Thank you for asking and feel free to use it.

This is a very common question and I unfortunately never actually measured the output on it, but I think I came up with an estimate in some previous comments based on what I was able to power directly without a battery, and I think I was estimating somewhere around 150W, if I recall correctly, so around 11-13 Amps into the battery at 12-14 volts. Maybe I'll eventually set this up again and get real numbers 🤔

A bench grinder is (most likely) a 120V AC motor, so it would not work well with a solar panel charge controller, as those are DC and generally lower voltages than that. However, it could be used to generate 120V electricity with a bike, you would then just need to use a battery charger if you want to store the energy

That's fine, thanks for asking!

Wow! That's an interesting strategy, for sure! Nicely done

Happy to help! Props to the people that originally figured it out!

100 percent! I've put a few thousand miles on the camper so far since the fix, leaving the same old belt that's been there for years and havent heard so much as a chirp from it!

I don't recall what the prices were when we did it, but that was quite a few years ago, now, so I'm sure the prices have gone up. Do a search for "Kay Tours" and see if they have their current prices posted on their website...I highly recommend that crew!

Definitely audible from the driver's seat, even with music on...I would frequently avoid 2000-2300 rpm just to avoid the noise. Does your noise seem to correspond to a certain engine RPM?

I was waiting to reply until I’ve driven the Outlaw again. Thank you so much for sharing this fix. It’s clear to me now that this is the belt making that horribly annoying sound at 2100rpm. I will be ordering these parts for sure unless you have new feedback regretting the install? Has it definitely cleared your sound? Did you ever find a reason why Ford chose to delete this pulley? I’m just wondering if there was a good reason and reinstalling it may have consequences over time?

@@InvertedMike Definitely no regrets from me on this one! I've driven the camper a couple thousand miles since I did this and haven't heard the sound once! I have no idea why Ford chose to delete the pulley, but my best guess is that did testing without it with a brand new belt and determined it wasn't necessary, so they decided to save a couple bucks, but didn't test it again on a belt that's been "broken in". Since this is just an annoyance and not a safety issue, I highly doubt they will issue a recall or anything for it, so we just have to do it ourselves!

@@LifeIsForEnjoying Excellent. Thanks again for sharing this. Another example of the positive side of the internet/KZbin!

The attachment is at a low-pressure point of the grill, meaning that it must be connected to a low-pressure supply. This can either be just a hose connected to a RV propane system that has a system-wide regulator at the tank, or a 20lb tank with the hose/regulator combo.

Thank you!

The outcome was that I got Thor to replace the entire roof a couple times and the entire waterlogged cab-over bed floor panel and framework, along with a couple other luan panels and moulding/trim stuff. I noticed they also drilled a couple small holes in the bottom of the nose fiberglass, I assume to drain any water that could still make its way in. I noticed when they replaced the roof that the trim above the leak was installed a bit differently and a screw that was previously exposed was now hidden in the trim. I'm not sure what the final cause and solution of the leak was, but something in that process fixed it, as I no longer see any signs of water intrusion around there! It only took over a year in Thor's hands to get it sorted out. I also filed a small claims case against them which was settled.

@@LifeIsForEnjoying Thanks for the reply. I'm glad to hear it's fixed!

I've heard of others having that same issue, so I wonder if they use two different regulator models and one has a better one-way valve than the other? I didn't do anything special, it just didn't leak

I had no idea someone was doing that, thanks for the info!

You betcha! Stayed at the Oregon Inlet State Park campground every time and took advantage of my solar panels and generator, since I never book far enough in advance for spots with hookups

How do I get the US on board with that?

Thanks!

No problem! Thanks for watching!

Thanks! I appreciate it

Oh wow, good idea! Thanks for the tip!

Do you have a link where you purchased that from? I'm having a difficult time finding this elbow. Thank you.

@@Griffshawn1 I used a 5/16 compression fitting from my local hardware store.

Thank you very much!

The improvements I would recommend are 1: Use a decent MPPT charge controller, rather than the cheap PWM one I used...this will improve efficiency and widen the compatibility with motors/generators, since it has a wider voltage/current range 2: Shop around to see what motors/generators there are out there. Choices were limited when I first did this, but now that e-bikes are a bigger deal, there are probably a lot of good choices out there 3: Use resettable DC breakers on each side of the charge controller to both protect things from over-current and act as a switch to fully disconnect things, when you want (don't use an old light switch like I do in the video) 4: Use lower gauge (thicker) wires than I do...especially if you're hooking up a sizable inverter to the battery. My thin wires were for proof-of-concept and were probably not ideal for efficiency or safety. Let me know if you have any other questions while you build it!

To measure a system's overall efficiency they must know the total power/energy input and the total power/energy output. In this case, for input, this means directly measuring the power of a human's legs and heart, without introducing any of the efficiency losses inherent to riding a bike. I unfortunately don't think I have the medical equipment necessary to make that measurement... Alternatively, you can determine efficiency if you know the exact efficiency loss of every component in the system. In this case, I would need to know the efficiency loss of converting human muscle power to the rotational energy of the bike wheel, the efficiency loss of converting the bike wheel rotational energy to the belt (some friction, tension, and heat involved there), the efficiency loss between the belt and the motor, the loss between the motor and the terminals, the loss of the wires connecting the motor to the charge controller, the loss of the charge controller to it's terminals, the loss of the wires between the charge controller and the battery, the loss of the battery chemical energy conversions, the loss of the wires between the battery and the inverter, the loss of the inverter to its plug, and any losses for the individual terminals, switches, connections, plugs, etc in between. Unfortunately I do not know the exact figures for each of those losses, so I cannot answer your question with any significant precision. However, if you're just looking for a rough idea, you can probably get the efficiencies of the most significant components (charge controller, battery, inverter) and multiply them together. I unfortunately don't have that data, either, but all the products I used are discontinued now, so I'm guessing the numbers would be different for anyone implementing this setup today, anyway. What efficiency would you estimate for this sort of system?

That's weird...if you're certain that the bottle you're using is full, that would suggest either a problem with the regulator, a leak somewhere, improper jets, or a plumbing issue. Did you get the grill new? I don't recall what the warranty was on this, but seems like they might be able to help you out. If you got it used, it's possible that the jets were replaced to make it use natural gas, instead of propane. I can't remember which jets are bigger/smaller, though.

could you please tell me the charge controller specs?

The charge controller specs should correspond to your chosen motor and battery, but I recommend an MPPT solar charge controller capable of outputting at least 20A for 12v batteries or 10A if you do a 24v battery setup. MPPT charge controllers generally have a wide input voltage range, so they should work with just about any motor, and I doubt you will be outputting more than 200 Watts unless you are sprint-biking, in which case, you can get a bigger charge controller

Note that the max power lance Armstrong biked was around 500W, which would be 42 Amps at 12V or 21 Amps at 24V: www.ridemedia.com.au/features/lance-vs-cadel-a-study-of-two-22-year-olds/#:~:text=The%20best%20test%20results%20achieved,a%20VO2max%20of%206.10%20L.