@@alexhoffam4170 these last forever! Great bikes!

Tuono though is a slightly watered down rsv4 power, chassis and handling wise Mt09 is a boat compared to it in my opinion lol

All triathlon focused at this point in life, but still on two wheels!

Best bet is to bleed the lines 🤷‍♂️

Just replace the whole oil pan

Should work fine. Find out what size bolt. If it’s an m5, use a drill size m6 to smooth it out and then use an m7 threader to thread it. Or what ever. Essentially just smooth it out then thread one 1.5-2 size up since drilling it out will set the hole bigger. Also make sure to use a copper washer.

@@ironj03 i think i need M18x1.5x12

any issues with the engine so far?

@rasheedsayyad9465 none, 30k and the valves were perfect

@@ryansadler696 thanks

Mine got hit by a car but these motors are workhorses! My buddy had this gen r1, still does, over 120k miles. Still fast and only had to change 2 stators and one water pump. If it’s clean and in good running shape it’ll last!

Good idea, at the time I was buying on a budget so most of my $ was in helmet, jacket, gloves and shoes. Pants were of intermediate importance to me because I honestly didn’t think about my legs being something that would get hurt (I know stupid). But honestly I think in order of importance pants come in last since head 1, then hands feet and elbows and torso all are very likely to be impacted first come in second. Just my 2 cents (for those who are looking to acquire quality protection over time)

Same boat with my FZ1 but Yamaha manual says 43Nm!! Unlike the poster I am going to use a helicoil with thread lock to secure the helicoil so I can use standard size sump bolts. The other thing I don’t like here is tapping only 1mm bigger. If I was going down the route of the poster I would’ve tapped to M16 to make sure the new thread is cut well clear of the old thread.

@@ek999 I have sold my bike but I remember I had the mechanic tap 1mm bigger thread ( didnt want to risk it myself and as you said depends on the condition of current threads and mine wasnt that bad, it was only leaking when engine was very hot a few drops ) and it was fine.Now that I am thinking about it , honda manual says to replace the washer everytime you change oil so that affects the torque needed to tigthen the bolt.Also always make sure there is no oil when you tigthen the bolt , threads should be clean .After the mechanic fixed it I always used a bit of brake cleaner and a cloth to make sure it was clean . Not sure if helicoil will work for this as the engine gets very hot and eventually threadlocker will fail and also the torque you need is high, the mechanic rejected the helicoil as non permanent solution.You dont really want to risk leaking oil or completely failing, if it goes on your tires bad things may happen or you can damage the engine if you dont notice while riding.

@@chriscs9080 yes I have thought about this, my helicoils are arriving today and I’ve got the sump pan off the bike rather than doing the fix on the bike so will evaluate the repair when I’ve done it and before the pan goes back on the bike. Lucky for me I’ve found that Fowlers can still get the new sump pans from Japan for the FZ1 so in a worst case scenario I’ll have to splash out £115 for a new pan but at the moment money is tight. I did a helicoil repair on a Honda NSR about 6 years ago which has held out and still is holding out but the drain bolt for them is much smaller and longer so was a different beast. Agree about the new crush washer, with my car and now my FZ1, I always buy a new bolt and washer each time I drop the oil. When the pan is back on I’ll do quite a few heat cycles and leave it running for 30 minutes to be sure. Still sat here questioning the manual’s torque values though haha

Thanks! And hmmm I’m not sure but tbh it’s just wiring bypass. So even if the clips don’t fit if you just splice the wires that they were supposed to clip into, it should theoretically work

Yup each head has one standpipe in the back and then the front on each oil rail is the dummy plug (dummy) because it’s fake doesn’t go all the way down.

Nope, until I got t-boned by a car at 45mph, that caused some leaks lol 😆 for the bike and me. But that’s like 2019 so long ago

Kept me safe in the slide and impact would highly recommend!

Held up great until a car hit me lol

I’d go with 1 or 2 mm over the original bold size

Yup just plugs right in! Just make sure you buy a wheel lock cause anyone can start the bike and drive away with it!

Lasted for the next like 6-10k miles and then I was hit by a car and the bike was totaled lol

@@ironj03 sorry to hear that, thanks for the reply! I’ll give it a shot on my bike.

@@ironj03 jeez, hope you're doing well.

No issues. Still good. Think that was done around 188-190k miles and currently at 202k. Hope this helps!

@@ironj03 Well makes me feel better. My 10mm standpipe bottom stayed in, and I placed the 12mm standpipe top on it. Probably need an injector or two, but didn't want to remove oil rail until I replace the injectors. When I do, I'll go ahead and replace the old standpipe bottom then. Thanks for replying!

@@Solamia7 definitely get to the injectors sooner than later, when they go it’s not fun. And glad I could help!

Glad it helped!!! Share with anyone who you think it could help and ride safe!

Never ridden s22 but I always see friends with them and they wear very fast! I took these up to top of intermediate pace and I know many people who use them advanced pace on the track. I love them for the road and overal great tire! And more life in my opinion than an s22. Plus they give good feedback