I was having this problem, but it wasn’t my transmission. It was a computer electrical box that just need to reprogram.

If the alternative belt is not properly tension. It will make your transmission lazy. I think it's because the alternator not producing the correct electricity.

Same problem.... Transmission was fine thankfully. My problem was the front cat came apart and plugged the 2nd one. No codes. Don't buy a cat from rockauto. It didn't last 18mo and 27k.

If it was throttle closing , the rpms would not increase they would decrease. What part did you replace

i have a different problem, and was kind of hoping someone could inform me on what it could be. i have a 2017 altima. itll accelerate fine but all of a sudden at a stop, as i go to press on the gas, no movement what so ever happens for many seconds. its delayed and i would just roll with my foot pressed on the gas all the way, then seconds later the rpms will shoot up and itll drive, i can turn the car off and back on and the pedal will work fine again.

It’s a have to do with a computer sensor. My car was doing the same stuff out there to the dealer cost me $100 to fix it.

I have same problem in my nissan altima 2009 2.5 ...Revesre gear sometimes no power but other gears were okk...i went on long distance drive and started prob with me on the highway no acceleration and RPM stuck in one speed even manual was stuck in 6th gear.... Checked on computer gave me code B2604 PNP/ Clutch Sw Whats the solution ...plzz need guidnes Thnxc

Had the same problem 2014 Altima. I took out the upstream o2 sensor. Took it for a spin. Problem sloved. Bad CC. Transmission has 240,000 still running good.

This is caused by overheating, when these CVT Nissan Vehicles go long distances under heavy acceleration their CVT fluid starts loosing viscosity because of overheating, and the CVT belt inside starts slipping thats why no more acceleration above 80 as it is already in limp mode. The best solution is to install after market stacked plate and fins transmission Cooler infront of condenser , with moving fan, controlled by thermostat that would turn on the fan at 140F and switch off the fan at 125F. As normal operating temperature for CVT is 95F to 220F any temperature above this range it starts overheating as the CVT fluid is broken and loose viscocity and doesn't provide sufficient traction on the CVT belt to match with the variable speeds from the engine.

Soo it's a CVT Problem? Mine is doing this exact thing at 82,000 miles.

My car has only been hitting 25 mph foot all the way down on gas climbing up hill wtf do I do

You ever figure this out my car did this off and on since 80k miles still do the same shit and it’s at 220k miles I learned how to deal with it lol

Really a shame that these cars have these problems

I had a similar issue but my problem was a little different. I had this issue where the entire electrics of the car would go haywire Eg. power steering would fail, all sorts of warning lights on my dash and I could rev the engine but my car would only move at idle speed would not accelerate. Funny thing is when i shut of the car and started it again in the morning it always worked perfectly fine. MY issue was that there is a water intake or pipe right above the alternator which has a loose cap. so when ever i drove on a rough patch of road or turned too hard the water would drip out into the alternator and cause the electrics to fail.

For everyone that’s commenting saying that it could be a CVT or a CVT sensor….STOP. I am a Nissan certified technician and I can tell you right now I had the same problem with my 2015 Nissan Altima S2.5 sedan. You have what’s called a intake manifold runner control valve (IMRC Valve). They are electronically controlled through the intake for all Altima ‘13-‘16. When these valves fail they get stuck open and the car does not want to accelerate properly because it can’t adjust for air fuel ratio‘s this problem if driven long enough will cause the check engine light to come on and it does cause the vehicle to accelerate only at a lower RPM( max speed 80 mph). The only way to fix this problem is to replace the entire intake manifold as a unit you can thank me later.

I have the same problem it happens randomly and is fixed the same way

Im dealing with the same year an model . Got p0776 code though i never got a check engine light.. I noticed the battery terminals full of acid corrosion. Clean it an drove for 30min , and the car is running fine again. I do think I have to drive it for 50mile to see if the problem comes back .

If anyone have any ideas on how to fix my motor blower need help on that I'm stuck I'm been trying to fix it myself for 2 weeks but can't and i just see no power going to the motor but idk when i turn the AC on i hear the click on and the i turn it off i hear the click again so it means it got power so i drive the car fast on hallway the AC starts to work i lower it to see if its true that is working and it is so i get home turn the car off Smalling thinking heyyyyy the AC it's working aging everything is good wow yeah i turn the car back on like one hour later the AC wasn't working again idk if it has to be the problem those days i hac the car park for 3 months maybe 4 since those months the car was off i turn the car on again the AC didnt wanna work so if anyone have any ideas on how to fix it pls respond back i honestly don't like to spend to much or paying someone else to fix when i can fix it myself or if i can't i read some manuals on gkw to fix it ..

I go a 2014 it was having the same problem and the car was just going 70 and and didn't wanna go any fast and it took me a while to get to 60 and then i keep on driving in the hallway and it when to 70 but it couldn't go past 70 i check everything everything was good except the terminal fuse had blow so i replace it to a new one and the car is working good it can only run to 120 it locks in 120 i been driving my 2014 Nissan Altima for almost 4 years and everything is in good condition oh even bought a new battery so everything in the positive and negative cables were new so i wouldn't have any problems in the future now . But yeah i just saw the date on this video and i see u had it figured out by now but i just wanned to share this jajajaj good day friends

Did check the positive obd terminal fuse

Can anyone tell me what part of the clutch system would cause this to happen in a manual? I have an 07 Aveo5 that is doing this. My gut is telling me it's the slave cylinder. It has no give when I push on it manually?

Mines is doing the same it gave a code saying it’s the intake gasket

Hey Boss, do you remember where the actuator was located? you say intake, but was it near the actual intake where the air filter is connected to, or is it near or around the intake valves? thank you.

That happened to me today with my 2012 Nissan Sentara what do I do my service light came on

This is nuts, my 2003 Altima did this, and it’s crazy after all these years, Nissan hasn’t mastered the problem. I just bought the vc turbo 2022, the first time I drove it, it floored. Now after three week’s of driving it, it won’t accelerate as fast as it use too. Smfh

Do you still have the Nissan how’s it holding up

It’s your stock brake sensor behind your brake pedal it’s telling your car you’re hitting your break in your gas the same time even though you’re not that’s what happened to mine and that’s what the problem is now my car is fine

Did it give you an engine diagnostic code? On my Altima I have the same issues which is long cranking when engine is warm and when the engine is cold it won’t have any power. I have no codes on mine

Did you ever find the problem? My 2015 Altima is having the same issue

Had the same issue pulled into a lot turned her off for 5 min back on loads up perfect .

Here is my experience: I purchased a 2015 Nissan Murano new in July 2015. We had transmission issues starting week 1! Hesitation and then over acceleration were addressed with multiple software tweaks but never corrected the issue. My CVT transmission failed and was replaced under warranty by Nissan in June 2019 at 52,000 miles. Today 11-29-21, at 62,100 miles, my transmission failed again due to the transmission oil/cooler/radiator assembly failing to cause the cooling fluid and the transmission fluid to mix, resulting in having to replace the Transmission, Radiator, and associated assemblies for a cost to me of approximately $6,700! Based on my research, this is a known issue with Nissan CVTs but was only partially addressed in the Class Action lawsuit because individual owners had to personally sue Nissan and their vehicle models and years were the only ones included in the extended warranty. How a judge does not include all Nissan vehicles with the CVT is beyond me especially when my dealership was replacing three a week when my 2015 Murano's CVT was replaced. All my service was completed at the dealership and we never prevent any work from being done when required. The only upside is Nissan is paying for 80% of the repair but I am still paying out of pocket on something I believe should be fully covered. If I had an Altima with the same issue it would be covered under the class action suit extended warranty coverage but the same CVT with known issues in another Nissan model is not covered!

I am in Australia, we had the VQ Altima here. I got mine with 5,000 km on it... drove it to 70,000... by which time the CVT was shuddering all the time, and refused to start a few times. Always had it serviced on time at Nissan but they "never detected a problem"... thankfully i got a good trade on it at a Nissan Dealer before the CVT failed completely. Such a shame, because otherwise it was an absolutely beautiful car, very very well set out interior, unbelievably nice seats, and fairly well built for a Thai built model... I will never ever go near a Nissan CVT again. Which is a shame, because i genuinely love the cars otherwise.

You Should Think About The Maxima Or The Charger V8.

It’s your car transmission I have a 2007. And it’s doin the same thing

Sorry to say your Nissan is just slow.

Hello I have a 2008 Nissan Ultima doing the same exact thing as your video with no check engine light no nothing I can get speed but really really slow if I step on the gas my RPMs does the same thing on your video

2007 Altima. They reprogrammed the Transmission Control Module.

good job sir

Hi, my car is doing the same think I have a 2017 Nissan Altima it takes a few seconds to accelerate. It has done that several times now don’t know what to do. Thinking of taking it to the dealer shop. I’m sure that will cost me a lot of money can anyone help? What should I do ?

Mine is doing the same thing and I believe the fuel sending unit is going bad. It is NOT like its stuck in gear. It actually feels as though the transmission is slipping. I went to a gas station and refilled my car and after that it was fine. But i dont want to take anymore chances so i need to get it fixed

Got Dammit JATCO!

So it’s the intake runner control? I have the same problem on my 2015 Nissian Sentra I have the pedantry he floor and it won’t run

This was happening last night than turned it for 30 mins I it looked like it fixed it self and than Finally I was climbing a hill it lost power pedal all to the floor it would runs had to get towed someone said it might be the air flow sensor

Altinator i had to put a new 1 in mine

Assd

Dude your frying your transmission when you floor it...and it is your transmission it's slipping....

For my Nissan altima it was because the catalytic converter pipe underneath the car was clogged

You need to change your air mass flu sensore

I got 2016 Nissan Sentra is doing the same

I have Nissan Altima 2015 model I m facing the same issue as you mention in video what I can do help me please to change gear or it’s sensor problem let me know please. P0776 P0744 P0746 P0965 all this error showing me when check with computer what do it’s means let me know. Its means I have to change the gear fully or what help me please