Glad you found the video helpful. I'm not sure if 11' ceilings are adequate--they may be, but it's obviously best to do measurements. Keep in mind that it's not just the height of the two cars plus the thickness of the lift runways--you also need to account for the fact that the lift has to rise a few inches above whatever lockstop it will be resting on prior to lowering it to that lockstop. So add several inches of additional clearance necessary for that. It's been 7 or 8 years since I had the lift installed, so prices have likely increased since then, but at the time it was around $5500 total for the lift itself plus installation and the 2 rolling bridge jacks. It was all made in the USA at the time, but there's a possibility Challenger might have changed to use foreign steel in the intervening years--I'm not sure what their current sourcing is. I did find a solution for the rolling bridge jacks not spreading wide enough for modern cars--there are extension pieces made by another company called SVI International, which are much cheaper than what Challenger charges for extensions. I have a video here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fKjFk3x6Z7yni8k Good luck with the lift--it's been a big help for me over the years.

That's fantastic!

Thanks! Hope it was helpful. This is the AiM system-the Solo datalogger/lap timer connected to a SmartyCam.

@@AutoPilotgogogo - Wonderful! Thanks so much! Adding this to my notes now. Have a great week ahead :)

Ok chump

Will try to answer as best I can, Peter. But absolutely confirm with a professional installer prior to having the work done. It's well worth the additional few hundred bucks to have a local lift dealer/pro plan out and perform the installation. Safety is paramount with this kind of project. 1 and 2) My garage floor has a decent amount of slope to it, but probably not as much as you're describing. The installer may have a method to place shims under the lift's posts at the lower/garage-door side to even it out. But then they would likely insist on bolting the lift to the floor so it doesn't shift on the shims. 3) From what I understand, 4" reinforced concrete is considered the minimum thickness to safely support a lift. But again, consult with an installer to confirm. Good that you're asking the right questions for planning--it's worth it in the long run.

Not sure since the Michelins are the only tires I’ve had on these APEX wheels. APEX does say a 275 Michelin can work up front (rather than my 265) if negative camber is added, so the front might be ok with the tires you mentioned in a 265. The rear may be tight with a 295 from a wider brand, though, as it’s a close tolerance on my car. My M2C is lowered on the M Performance suspension.

That’s fantastic! Congrats!

Hadn't thought about a lightened flywheel. Would be an interesting experiment, but I suspect it might make the car a bit too nervous/raw for the daily commute.

Yes, indeed if it's too light it becomes jerky not good for street. It may even stall on initial start up. I think a quarter to no more than a third lighter would be ideal. Thanks for your response. @@AutoPilotgogogo

Thanks--really helps me stay centered

You make a great case for the Clubsport. Curious whether there are that many available still in good shape. I've since moved on to a 992 GT3 for track use, but I miss the GT4--wish I could have kept it as well.

I lost the receipt when I migrated all of my email over a couple of years ago, but it's reasonably priced. He's a one-man show, making them himself for each order, and he does a really quality job. Highly recommended.

Great trackday organizer, run by very nice people. Good mix of cars.

OZ Leggera HLT 19x8.5 all around, with 245/35-19 Michelin PS 4S. I mention it around the 13:50 mark.

Hope you like it. Just used mine today as I switched from my winter to summer tire setup...

@@AutoPilotgogogo Just installed and awaiting wheels/tires to be picked up tomorrow. So far looks great!

Glad to hear!

No, that part that you saw was just securing the two installation nuts together. Bimmerworld instructs you to use a torque wrench to tighten the outer installation nut against the inner one specifically to 70-75 ft lbs FIRST, without tightening the stud any further than the initial hand tight into the hub, and then using the torque wrench on the outer nut as the second step to tighten the stud into the hub at 50 ft lbs. So that part with me using the crescent wrench on the inner installation nut was just the first step of tightening those nuts together to a specific tightness/torque setting prior to securing the stud fully into the hub. Sorry if it was a bit confusing.

@@AutoPilotgogogo Ok good I'm glad you tightened them down, you just didn't show it after your double-nut saga. Cheers- I have an M2C as well and might do studs this Winter

I’m sure it would help-see if AutoSolutions makes a kit for the E90. I had an E90 M3 several years ago and loved it. Such an epic engine. Mine was DCT, but I’m sure the feel of the stock manual transmission is similar to that of my current M2.

You run the risk of voiding the warranty if there are any engine issues that can be attributed to the flash--it is detectable. But I had success going with a quality company like APR with an easy OBD-based flash tune.

Oh you mean connecting your computer to the OBD2 kind of flash right? Cause there are tons of “just plug this into your obd2 sensor and get an extra 50hp” but they always turn out fake..

@@prawnstar9213 Works through the OBD port, but it has to be done by an APR-authorized dealer with the appropriate software. And the results are real and significant--from 290hp and 280ft-lb torque to 380hp and 380ft-lb torque with a simple stage I flash. Transforms the car.

I'm thinking maybe it was introduced with a refresh of the S3 perhaps later in its run...

It's interesting. My views of the manual transmission in this car have changed over time. The short shift kit and UCP did make a difference, as did deleting the CDV. But overall I think a big part of my issue is that I can't drive the car on a daily basis the way it should be driven. My daily work commute is less than 3 miles, and doing errands around town on the weekends just doesn't do this car justice. On the rare occasion I can really drive it and stretch its legs, it starts to make sense again. As you probably know, it really comes into its element on smooth, curvy roads where you can wind it out and shift at higher rpms. The daily slog to work on rough roads in a cold car, shifting at 3000 rpm, is a drag. Interestingly, I daily drove a GT4 for a couple of years before picking up the M2C, and it actually behaved a lot better for the short drive to work--much smoother shifting and better behaved, even at low rpms and when cold. And when warmed up and on good, open roads, it was epic.

I did, Ryan. It helped somewhat, particularly with the 1-2 shift balkiness. It’s still not perfect, however. In fact, the car is a bit more difficult to get going smoothly from a stop now that the CDV has been removed, especially when cold. This BMW manual will never be as accurate/smooth/intuitive as the manual in my GT4, but I’ve come to the conclusion that the M2C shines when driven in a spirited fashion. When the car is warm, traffic is light, and conditions allow you to shift at 4500-6000 rpm, it becomes remarkably smoother. It’s a car that loves smooth, curvy, open roads. Unfortunately, the daily work commute typically doesn’t offer these conditions. Wish I could use it more often in the settings it was made for. The strange thing about the GT4 is that it manages to shine on track and canyon roads, and also shifts smoothly at lower revs in daily traffic. Magic. I don’t know how Porsche does it. As for the APEX wheels, you’ll love them. Fit perfectly, well-made, and look so good!

You're welcome--hope it was helpful.

Daytona Grey Pearl

Good question. In this instance, not an issue because I bought the car at lease end. But in my experience the leasing company doesn’t care about such a minor change.

Thanks for that good to know. I'd really enjoy seeing you compare your GT4 and M2C.

It was most pronounced on the front tire(s)?

@@AutoPilotgogogo Yes but I think because of the weight in the front and because the car tends to understeer. I did noticed that the tired were very hot after the first two laps. I have been using falken RT615 on my 2010 Civic SI on the road course, I did 47 total laps on a 1300 yard circuit-13 turns(about 1:05 per lap) and the tires are holding up very well considering that is a FWD with front mounted engine and probalaby like a 65/35 weight distribution. Your brought an excellent point about the cost per tire and tired/wheel diameter inventory. It seems like you have to do a lot of leg work and plan well before buying because it can get expensive. This weekend I ran into something and one of my RE71 has a slash on the edge of the tire, now the tires are discontinued.

@@rs3tuber425 Good tire wear on the Falken/Civic combo!

@@AutoPilotgogogo Apparently the sidewall suppose to be stiffer on the Falken 660, it is basically an updated version of the Falken Azenis 615. I meant to ask you, what fluid are you using on the Porsche? I took the Audi RS3 to the track and the pedal got spongy to the floor after 3-4 laps even though I have 2 piece lightweight floating rotors, 8 piston factory calipers(4 sets of pads per caliper). I just got Castrol SRF and I will be flushing the whole brake fluid.

@@rs3tuber425 Yes--sounds like boiled fluid. Castrol SRF seems to be the gold standard for track use. My shop uses Motul RBF 600/660 in my cars, which is also excellent.

Glad you found it helpful. The wheels have held up well. Funny regarding the guess of airline pilot -- I'm actually a cardiac anesthesiologist. Similar skillset. 😀

Too funny. I actually am a pilot. Back in '02 I had the opportunity to sit next to the anesthesiologist when my wife was giving birth to our son (complicated pregnancy). Loved chatting with him and watching him work what looked like a 747-100/200 Flight Engineers panel. Told my wife that would be a fantastic doc job. Look forward to exploring your other videos and any new content. Thanks.

Wow. Almost double. They probably hadn’t increased the price for a number of years, and now supply chain and transportation costs have risen quite a bit.

Thanks for the kind words. My GT4 was my everything car for a couple of years (daily driver, including winter with winter tires, and track car) until I got a second car for daily use. That second car was a 2017 Audi S3, which was great for daily duty, especially in the winter with snow tires. But I wanted to try something different after the three-year Audi lease, so I moved on to the M2C for my daily driver. It has been great--much more involving and fun than the Audi. I've never had the M2C on track, other than a car-control clinic (wet skidpad and small autocross course), so I can't directly compare the M2C to my GT4 in terms of track ability. The M2C did seem to come alive during the autocross session in a way that I hadn't experienced before with it on the street--I think you'd have to be a real hooligan to push the M2 near its limits on the street. Ironically, that's kind of disappointing--it made me realize that you don't really get to fully appreciate the M2C's personality unless you are ripping around an autocross circuit or track. It would probably also come alive on a nice curvy backroad on a Sunday morning with no traffic around, but for the daily slog back and forth to work, it just feels like a regular BMW. The GT4, on the other hand, feels special even at 30mph on your local streets. It's just so much more mechanical and visceral and special feeling than the M2C. Even at sane daily driver speeds, the GT4 is a breeze to heel and toe. And then it's a whole other level when on track. It just feels so planted and natural and at home on the track. As a result, it's very confidence-inspiring and doesn't take long to feel comfortable exploring its limits. Ultimately it can feel a bit underpowered on track, especially when around Z06s and GT3s, but it's essentially a super-capable momentum car. You learn how to carry very high speeds through corners, kind of like a German Miata on steroids. You do have to keep it in the higher part of the rev band, but it's so satisfying. The engine and manual transmission work together like the fine machinery they are. I can identify just two downsides to the GT4 as a track car, other than the relative lack of power vs Corvettes and GT3s. One downside is the front strut suspension, which can cause some understeer in certain corners. This can be frustrating and can chew through front tires, but you can adjust your driving style to help things here--more trail braking to point the nose, etc. The other issue is a rear-end wiggle under heavy/threshold braking on track. This can be a bit scary the first couple of times you experience it, as you come flying into the braking zone at the end of a long straight. The rear end lifts a bit, the rear suspension unweights and allows some toe-out, and the back end feels very unstable and darty. Couple of solutions to this--one is to brake a bit earlier and less abruptly, to allow the car to settle on all four tires a bit before getting harder onto the brakes. And the other solution is a set of offset rear toe links from TPC Racing that prevent the dynamic change in toe under braking, as well as a DSC Sport controller, an electronic box that replaces the OEM PASM shock controller and firms up the front shocks under heavy braking to prevent the nose-dive and keep the rear from unweighting. I did this combo and it made a dramatic improvement in stability under heavy braking. I will say that I've seen quite a few OG M2s and M2Cs at the track (even an M2CS with a rollbar in it last weekend at Lime Rock), and they do seem to make a good track car, with their ample turbo power, decent chassis and short wheelbase. They can be plenty fast, probably faster than a GT4 on track in the right hands. But there's something about the satisfaction and pure joy of driving a GT4 on track (and the street, too) that the M2 can't touch. I haven't posted to the KZbin channel in a while (too long), but I ended up selling my beloved GT4 because I got an allocation for a new 992 GT3. I've had it on track twice now and it's pretty epic. Still learning its differences compared to the GT4 (cornering attitude, shift points, braking points), and taking it a bit easy as I gain experience with it, but it's looking to be truly amazing. Hope this helps. Keep me posted.

@@AutoPilotgogogo thanks so much for this! This is a ton of great context and put things into perspective for me. This also reaffirmed that I need to get the GT4 lol some of the negatives you shared about the GT4 were very similar to what I’ve experienced in my old f82 M4. I drove my buddies GT4 a few weeks ago and just thought.. I have to have it lol. Right now I daily a X5M and track the m2 with some occasional weekend cruising. I think the gt4 will be the perfect replacement until I take the plunge into 911 GT3 territory (one day lol). Congrats on the 992! I’m excited and will definitely stay in touch. Josh

@@KatoDriven Glad to be of help. I miss the GT4 enough that I'm tempted to get a 718 Spyder as a daily driver...

@@AutoPilotgogogo wow. Good to know! I’m taking delivery of my GT4 next weekend. I’m excited.

Ouch. You’re right. Wasn’t nearly as bad as it looked, but I now have a set of plastic trim removal tools to help with projects like this.

AiM SmartyCam HD with external mic built into power cable

Great comments. Thank you. Have now moved on to a 992 GT3, so eager to put all of this to use.

Wow that’s a nice step up! Are you going back to the Glen soon? I’m there a couple times a month and keep going back.

Aug and October. Can’t wait.

I didn’t try the clutch stop, so I can’t comment from experience, but one advantage of the Ultimate Clutch Pedal is its adjustability for effort and position.

Enjoy!

It's not you, it's the car. Seriously. I've been driving manual transmission cars since I was 15 years old, and this car makes me feel like a beginner. I'm not quite sure what it is, but my E46 330Ci wasn't this way, nor was my E60 545i. Both of those manuals were pretty smooth, if a bit long in throws. The ultimate clutch pedal definitely helps relocate the clutch pickup point closer to the floor, so there's no longer a ton of dead travel before the clutch engages all the way at the top of its travel. And the AutoSolutions short shift kit makes the shifter action feel a lot more mechanical and solid. It gets rid of the rubberiness and vagueness. Feels really good, and if anything it makes it easier to go from gear to gear--it's more precise. Definitely recommend it. Overall, though, even after both those upgrades, as well as doing the clutch delay valve delete recently, the car is still jerky with the 1-2 shift most times. I think it's just the transmission. My perspective did change a bit, though, when I took the car for an autocross day. It really shines and comes alive in that setting--it really rips. Rotates well, great power, a ton of fun. It's a side of the car you don't really get to see in day to day driving. The car in some ways becomes smoother with more aggressive driving and winding the engine out a bit before shifting. But its limits are high enough that you can't really do this on the street without being an idiot. One final thought--don't ever drive a manual transmission Porsche Cayman, Boxster or 911, unless you plan on buying one right then. They're that good, especially the 981 GT4. So direct and mechanical yet smooth as silk--both shifting and clutch action. So good...

@@AutoPilotgogogo Hey have you made any progress toward a consistent 1-2 shift in hardware or driving style? Ive noticed the car likes to go into second if first is revved out to around 3500 rpm, but anything lower and the stupid thing bucks me

That’s the conclusion I’ve come to as well. 1-2 shift is much smoother at higher RPMs-4000 or 4500. Which is annoying on the morning commute or other times the car is not warmed up because you want to have some mechanical sympathy until it reaches temperature.

@@AutoPilotgogogoDoes the autosolutions kit come close to the Porsche feel?

@@thatscrazy1965 No, but it is a definite improvement over stock.

Typically no. You bring a tarp to lay out on the asphalt in your parking spot in the paddock and spread your stuff out on the tarp. At any given time there's only one run group on track, with a few other run groups remaining in the paddock between their sessions, so there are always people around keeping an eye on your stuff. It's generally pretty secure.