If you're working in Photoshop, there's no reason you can't save this as a .jpg. If you're not seeing that option in your Save dialog try the keyboard shortcut Command - Option - S (Cmd - Alt - S on PC). Adding the Option/Alt to the shortcut will give you more format options including .jpg. You could also use the "Save for Web" function, which is hidden now for some reason, but that shortcut is Command - Option - Shift - S (Cmd - Alt - Shift - S on PC I think). And from there you can choose the JPG High preset. Hope that helps.

@@drewcain working in photoshop last version from today but they changed it you can not choose jpg if you push save you have to push save an choose there save copy then you can save it as jpg i found it yesterday thx fior the answer!

I used a standard 50mm f1.8 for these.

My name's Drew, but you're absolute welcome! :)

Very sorry about the name thing Drew, IM OLD!

Thanks! This one was shot with the DJI Mavic Pro 2.

@@drewcain Awesome, I have that one too. I've watched all your videos now, and was especially impressed by the 360 drone panaroma viewed in a VR headset. I wanted to ask, comparing the video shot using an insta 360 vs drone panorama 360, what had better quality when viewed through the VR headset? I'm tempted to buy an insta 360 so that I can view videos in the VR headset for that immersive memory experience, however i've seen a lot of insta 360 videos on youtube and have found the quality to be lacking, maybe that is just the youtube playback quality.

@@T3chFlicks My take on this would be that the Insta360 cameras are a better way to go for any VR projection situation. While the drone's 360 panoramas are ok for some situations, you're not getting a true sky to ground 360 sphere to work with. From the Mavic 2, you'd need to hang the 360 from a mounting bracket wrapped around the drone. Takeoff and landing has to be done by hand, but in my opinion it's a superior way to capture 360 with a drone, although you'll want to shoot video and just export single frames if you want stills (or set it to shoot a hyperlapse or intervals which you can then choose shots from), because there's no way to remote fire the camera from the ground while it's in the air. Alternately Insta360 has a specific drone mounted camera for the lighter Mavic Air, but that's a whole different conversation.

​@@drewcain Really appreciate your responses :)) I was inspired by your video and then found this spot on google maps - www.google.com/maps/@13.8295565,-61.0592499,3a,75y,335.03h,74t/data=!3m8!1e1!3m6!1sAF1QipMYyybES1RU9euEYNfWnn5U6o5InYuR4wH7aa8L!2e10!3e11!6shttps:%2F%2Flh5.googleusercontent.com%2Fp%2FAF1QipMYyybES1RU9euEYNfWnn5U6o5InYuR4wH7aa8L%3Dw203-h100-k-no-pi0-ya283.00357-ro-0-fo100!7i13500!8i6750?entry=ttu I can see it has the missing sky you mentioned but i'm still very impressed with the quality, do you think this was done with a drone mavic 2? i've seen a few videos on using photoshop content aware fill on this area that have great results. But i've also seen a few where the sky does appear to be a problem www.extremetech.com/computing/264649-create-share-360-degree-panoramas-drone I think the 360 camera would still capture the drone no matter where you put it? apart from on like you say the insta360 sphere

@@drewcain I got a great deal on a GoPro max and have been happy with the results. I’m yet to hang it from the drone. Do you think it will be stable enough video to be watched in VR? Also does seeing the drone above you within VR feel weird? Or have you edited this out like the selfie stick?

That’s exactly what I’m doing now as well, but I’m also creating the mask before I unwind it so I have a perfectly matching mask for my change which minimizes the minor detail loss to just where the edit was done. I’m planning an updated version of this vid to show those little tricks. Thanks for the comment!!

That makes sense. Smart. ;) Today, I've been adding projection data to the metadata according to this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aWnboYudjMxmqMUsi=y-VnwHR6-Jkn4Ew6 so Facebook will display it correctly, but, that does not work as an action, as far as I can figure out... I have to do it manually with each photo.

Sorry Frank, cell phone photography isn't what I do... However, all the same setup principals I've gone over in this video are relevant regardless of how you're capturing the shot... Use a tripod, get the light right, and use an app that will let you manually adjust all the settings so you can experiment until you get the result you're after.

ok, i understand - i have a lot of guitars i need to sell and i was wondering what the best aspect ratio would be to photograph them. thanks for your response!@@drewcain

@@jfjusa1 The aspect ratio shouldn't really matter unless you're planning to sell on a platform that has an unusual (vertical) image layout. I recommend shooting landscape over portrait for most online platforms, which I know isn't ideal for guitars, but it's better than having a vertical shot shown in a horizontal space where you either end up cropped or with a bunch of whitespace on each side. Just food for thought :) Good luck with your shoot and your sales!

Thank you!@@drewcain

Hey Carrie, thanks for the question. I'm shooting with a 50mm f/1.8 prime lens in this video. I manually focused to be sure I had exactly the focal point I was after, shot at ISO 100 and worked out the shutter speed from there. The big 1.8 aperture lets a ton of light in, which is how I was getting the shallow depth of field. Hope that helps!

@@drewcain Thanks! that's my default too

Hey Ryan, good catch. The round reflector hanging from the tripod was reflecting just enough light from the little overhead LED to get definition on the end of the guitar where the strap button is. In my tests, I didn't feel like I was getting enough light there and that little bit of white from the reflector added just enough light redirection to allow me to preserve the details there at the end of the guitar.

@@drewcain sweet, figured you used it somehow. 👍

Good question. As of the 2024 version of Photoshop, Adobe has sunset the 3D features this tutorial relies on, so it's back to the traditional way of doing this for now. I outlined that process a few years ago -- here's a link to that video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/n4PXhpaNa86niLs ... I've since refined this process a little bit to reduce the slight bit of detail shift created in the Polar Coordinates wrap/unwrap steps and am hoping to put together a quick new tutorial in the near future.

Happy to hear it helped. I’m planning to do an update to this technique with a few new tricks, so keep an eye out.

@@drewcain thanks so much! you are the dude!!!!

Yep. I did a video on that as well and you can find it here > kzbin.info/www/bejne/oZeTg3yQZ6aIgq8

Hey Ravi, ballpoint pens and glossy prints don’t mix. Your best bet is going to be a very fine tip marker pen, and even then, you need to be super careful not to smudge it as you’re writing and give it plenty of time to dry before touching it.

Hey Shay, I've actually been digitally signing my work with what started as a physical signature for some time now (there's a video here on the channel about that if you're interested). I do that for a couple of reasons, but primarily because it guarantees a perfect signature every time, I can get it straight and positioned right where I want it without the risk of screwing up an expensive print, which is always so nerve wracking. I do still prefer the signature to look authentic, which is why I use the hybrid style -- rather than a signature made from a font or something. I'd say spend a little time writing your signature over and over until you get one you like, then when you're happy, digitize it (again, see the tutorial) and use the best version for everything. That's just my 2cents of course, as the artist it really is your prerogative to do what you feel best represents you and how you want to present your work. That digital signature tutorial can be found here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oZeTg3yQZ6aIgq8

Of course, that's always an option if you don't care about the tripod. In that case you can export the .jpg straight from Insta360 Studio and drop it right into your headset.

Hey Joslyn, I use Dropbox to store both Raw and Final PSD versions of all my fine art images, especially when traveling and away from my multi-drive backup solution. I'm currently shooting the Sony A7R IV which is 61MP and the files are gigantic, so I only store the best of the best (or personal shots I don't want to loose) in Dropbox. Especially when traveling when connection speeds can be slow, being selective is important. I carry a pair of identical Samsung T5 SSD drives that are 2TB each (stored in different bags) while traveling to which I copy every day's images along with a local copy I keep on my 4TB MacbookPro just for extra redundancy. It's excessive probably, but doesn't take that much effort to maintain so I play the "better safe than sorry" card on backups. Video isn't super important to me, so it gets copied to the T5's, but never to dropbox.

@@drewcain Thank you very much Drew. All the best to you! You are a blessing♥️

Thanks Roland. The signature consistency is the result of LOTS of practice, and even then, I'm still always a little sketched out signing by hand. The digital version's so much less stressful :)

I think maybe the only way this could work would be to be live streaming from the Insta360 and then have the headset opened to the KZbin live feed. In theory that would be the cleanest way to do this assuming both user has a connection fast enough to stream and receive. The 5.7k Insta360 video is a little heavy so probably a 5G situation at minimum. Hope that helps

Tobias, I'm not sure what you're doing wrong, but this absolutely still works in the most recent version of Photoshop (v24.0.1 - late 2022).

@@drewcain sorry actually 😂i watched 4 times the video and i just saw that when i am doing the lasso tool, when I am finished I have to click on it so that it disappears and then you can do back the polar thing. Thxx so much it worked at the end and. I didnt have to work much harder :(

:)))) *