Yes, it was very fortunate for me. I think if I had to change the tee myself, I might not have been so adventurous. With there being just a cap with the size I needed, it really enticed me to try to do it myself. Glad I did! :) Hope your setup goes well, thanks for commenting!

I don't believe Autozone would be able to help you here. You need a scan tool that can do ASP Calibration like I show in the video. If you can borrow one great, otherwise, you need to invest in the scan tool. You don't have to get one as expensive as mine, I think there might be some in the 200-300 range that could do the calibration. Going to a shop will cost you probably just as much. At least afterwards, you have a tool that you can use for diagnosis and other repairs.

Hi, thank you - I'm glad you appreciated the video. I am just a homeowner, I am not in any of the trades. Unfortunately, I don't have anyone to recommend. Any plumber should be able to do this type of work. Hope you can find the one you need!

Good call out. I got it wrong initially, but fixed it in the end. This is indeed a very important point.

Hi Fauxque5057, thanks for commenting. That definitely works in a pinch, but I couldn't ever do that as I want everything to be properly rated for the application. I definitely will give props to your brother for thinking outside of the box! My hose was a mod podge of hoses I found from a surplus supplies store. I think it ended up being about 85 ft in length for around $200. It has been a while since I purchased it, so I don't recall.

I had to temporarily relocate my 125 gallon propane tank away from my house when I did some foundation work and put a length of garden hose spliced into the feed pipe between the house and the tank. I had cut, clean ends on both ends of the garden hose and used stainless steel, screw pipe clamps to secure each end of the hose. It easily held the 11 WC with no leaks for a few weeks, but I wouldn't leave that around permanently exposed to sunlight and other weather.

@@maxwellcrazycat9204 sorry to hear you got one with defects. I'd recommend reaching out to micro-air, from everything I've heard, they really stand behind their products and give good support. I'm pretty sure they would replace it for you or resolve this with you somehow. I get it might be more trouble than it's worth, hope you figure out what to do.

Wow, those are really kind words of you to say! Thank you so much for that comment - it made my day. :)

It depends on your gas service. If you have standard 7" water column pressure, you don't need a regulator. (About 27" WC is 1 PSI) If you're running propane which is stored 100-200PSI, you definitely need a regulator. If your utility company is running "high" pressure like 2PSI, you need one. SoCalGas does 2PSIG - www.socalgas.com/business/builder-services/elevated-pressure.

@@ammazabeth8765 please do research for your own jurisdiction. I unfortunately will not know what your jurisdiction allows or does not allow. As for my own jurisdiction, I live in the extra-territorial jurisdiction zone, so I was not bound to city permitting laws. In Texas, there are pretty generous laws that allow you to do work on your own home if it is your homestead and you own it. According to my research, the gas line after the meter is my own responsibility. The gas line is not owned by the utility company or the city after the meter. I am not a lawyer or an expert, this is just what I found from my research when I looked into whether I can do this. Please look into this for yourself for your specific situation.

Thanks! Hope you get everything setup for next time! The app I'm using is called Resideo and it comes free with the Honeywell Smart Thermostat - amzn.to/46WAYsP.

It definitely could have been just an elbow. I wanted to preserve the original functionality of the service tee. Using a tee allowed me to continue having a 3/4" service port available without having to take take off my quick disconnect setup.

@@marcoolazaran9193 30amps

This is really excellent advice - you totally lose any value with a generator if you end up ending the lives of you and your family. As a precaution, I never run my emergency generator setup while I am asleep because as you stated, carbon monoxide can build up especially when you have it unattended. I also make sure I have carbon monoxide detectors in all the bedrooms. Thanks for sharing and I do hope everyone exercises safety and caution when running emergency generators in a temporary setup like mine. There are certainly risks you have to be aware of and steps that you need to take to stay safe.

Hi Teddy, thanks for commenting! As far as I have observed, the easy start does not save ANY electricity. Theoretically, the A/C unit should last longer, but I think it probably is only extending the life of the capacitor or what not. The only reason why I got it is to run a smaller generator... For me, a requirement was to run an inverter generator - I have sensitive electronics that would not work on regular generators. The math added up as follows: Generator: $900 vs $2500 or $5000 generator for 11000 or 16000 watt generator Upsizing wires: 10 gauge vs 8 gauge - $300 vs $600 I was looking at spending more than $2000-3000 more dollars if I was to just upsize my generator. Getting a easy start at $300 seemed like the better investment when considering these options. If you don't have inverter generator as a requirement or don't mind getting a bigger generator that takes up more fuel/hour, just getting a bigger generator might be the right thing for you. In my scenario, it was the most cost-efficient option.

That's awesome. I'm glad you have an emergency setup that works for you! It was pretty important for me to run my central heating unit (which is hard-wired into my house) because I never wanted to be in the same situation as the 2021 winter storm which is why I went with hardwired. If you have the space and money, 2nd unit is always a good idea. I would consider a closed frame model - they're both smaller, lighter, and more quiet to run. The downsides is that it is more expensive. Check this one out - amzn.to/3X7gQAU.

@@jonathanDIYs Luckily my gas central heat/air air handler actually plugs into a dedicated 120v outlet, so it was easy to connect up with an extension cord. Had it been 240v or hard-wired, I'd of had a rougher time for sure.

Yeah, it is the Sense monitoring system. amzn.to/3M8V4GH If I were to do this again, I would probably try the Emporia monitoring system - amzn.to/4dnc3kq. It has been getting a lot of good reviews on amazon. Also, Sense has gone up like 2x in price since I bought it. I don't think I would ever pay the current price it is at now.

Ok. Thanks!

I'm not 100% sure what you're talking about, but if you are referring to where I spray it with soapy water, that is to check for leaks. If it bubbles, you know it has leaks. If no bubbles come out, there is no leaks.

Hi Ronald, I went with the cheapest, NEC compliant option - a backfeed breaker with a manual interlock transfer switch. As long as you do not have both the utility power and the generator power connected at the same time, you are ok. A manual interlock transfer switch physically prevents both the generator backfeed breaker and the main utility power switch from being on at the same time. I don't have a video up on that yet, but I may put one up in the future to discuss how I set that up. Thanks for commenting.

Yeah, I have no problems with my soft start. It cycles dozens of times a day and I haven't had any issues with it. Still great when I need to run from generator power as well (though I haven't had a long term outage since winter 2021).

@@jonathanDIYs fantastic. I will purchase one. Was a little concerned from all the amazon reviews. Some great and some not too good

@@shawnstangeland3011 hope you have a good experience with it!

Hi Preston, thanks for commenting! During an emergency, nobody should be walking on the side of my yard - my kids don't like going out when it is too hot or too cold. I spec'd the gas line and electric cable to account for the length of the runs. The gas line is 3/4 inch diameter for that purpose as well as the electric cable being 10gauge. For the electric cable, I can go as long as 100ft before worrying about voltage drop at 30Amps. If I was to move up to a 50 amp generator, I would definitely need to do 8 gauge wire. This is definitely a poor man's setup. If I wanted to have everything automated, definitely going with a Generac backup generator is the way to go or even a Tesla power wall with some solar. However, I wasn't interested in exploring those options because power is so seldomly out in my area, I didn't need something that I needed to regularly rely on. It didn't make sense putting out over $10k for a solution when I was able to put this together under $2k. I would never leave this thing running when I'm not home - I actually don't even leave it running overnight. I wouldn't trust where I have it to not start carbon monoxide issues while I sleep. There are definitely solutions out there that can cover unanticipated and significant house loads - you just have to fork out $10-40k for them! If you find a system that handles everything automatically for under $2k, let me know - I would definitely be interested myself!

Awesome, glad this helps. Just one word of caution - take precautions to prevent carbon monoxide buildup in the house. If the wind is blowing in the right direction, it can allow carbon monoxide to settle and enter the house through the backdoor. I would make sure I have a working carbon monoxide detector and I also would never run the generator while I am sleeping. It is recommended to have the generator at least 15-20 feet away from the house, but many people don't have the space to make that work. You can check out this reddit thread for more info - stay safe! www.reddit.com/r/Generator/comments/vyhhht/what_if_you_cant_run_a_generator_20_ft_away_from/

I installed a 14-50, 240V, 50A outlet for my EV. I used a proper GFCI, 50A breaker, same QP type markings as the Siemens panel. I used a quality, industrial, Hubbell 9450 outlet because the cheaper Leviton ones were melting in long term EV service. I cut a nice hole in my drywall near the panel for the outlet box and it ran my plug-in EV charger for 2 years. BUT then our condo association and the town started freaking out about unpermitted EV work, so I ripped out my work and called an electrician. The first one was polite, but never called me back after I waited a month. The second electrician took weeks to pull the permit and do the work, after which I was left with a nasty combination of EMC and BX on my garage walls along with a messy hack of an entrance hole into the drywall near the panel. Upon inspection, the town wanted the electrician to firestop their ugly drywall hole, which they did with metal plate and a lot of equally ugly, red, high temp silicone sealant. After the final inspection, I cleaned up the entrance hole, and sanded and painted the firestop patch white so it matched the walls. I'm going back into the service panel and back of the EVSE one day soon and retorque their connections, because I've already seen the hack job the "pro" electricians did on the outside of the job. I have a torque screwdriver and want to make sure the high-current terminal screws don't loosen in the heavy, continuous-duty service EV charging subjects them to. All this cost me $1100, except that the electrician was so inept that he never billed me past the initial $149 deposit I gave them. It's now been 3 months since they all left. Ordinarily, I'd call them and offer to pay, but my condo property manager, the town, and both electricians were such a clown show compared to my very code-compliant 14-50 outlet self-install that was more than perfectly fine, I'm keeping my mouth shut. I only use "pros" when I absolutely have to. Don't even get me started about the substandard basement floor some "pros" poured in my 2nd home that ended up out of level, and, due to insufficient pour depth, didn't properly cover and seal the adjuster threads on my lally column beam supports set into said basement floor as per the IBC, etc. Bottom line: the "pros" screw up a lot too and sometimes we homeowners know better.

You'd be surprised how nerves can make you forget everything in front of a camera... at least it happens for me. W = A × V

@@KevinBalkissoon this only protects against high voltage, and only as much as this is rated for. High current is protected by standard breakers that trip based on current. This directs transient high voltage to neutral, protecting your equipment. Your equipment will see a spike in voltage, but only 600V instead of potentially thousands of volts.

200 people Did Die in the winter storm here in Houston a couple yrs ago!

Thanks for commenting. If I ever move out to a space with a few acres of land, I want to have a 250 or 500 gallon propane tank. I don't think they do buffer tanks for natural gas - it is all vapor, it isn't stored as a liquid afaik.

Thank you! The gauge of wire depends on how much current you want to run and the length. There are charts online that you can find. I found the Southwire calculator a good tool - www.southwire.com/calculator-vdrop. I was going for 30amps at 240V - 10 gauge copper was sufficient for up to 100ft at those specifications. Hope this helps, thanks for commenting!

@@christian14329 they changed their specs over the years... At the time, this was the one rated for 4 ton AC. Check with microair if you're unsure for your own setup. This works for me and I'm not going to fix what isn't broken. 😁

@@gregm621 hi there, please watch my other video where I hook up my generator to the inlet port. I try to explain in as much detail as possible how I came up with the 3/4 inch calculations. The short summary is if I didn't have a 3/4 inch size, it wouldn't provide the maximum amount of fuel necessary to run my generator. I also installed the soft start system on my HVAC. I have a video on that too. Thanks for commenting!

it could plug an orifice.