Do you have this file still 😭😭 just finding this and the website is down. I can no longer purchase

Any idea where the firmware source code is? I tried that dropbox link but it's gone now :)

I didn’t even get the stringing on the Benchy. But then again I did go through the leveling process five times and I also used the smooth glass side of the bed instead of the corrugated side. I find that all of my prints on all of my printers work better with mirrors or smooth glass. My first boat off of this was completely perfect. Not one single imperfection. Just redo your leveling a couple, three times. And yes it does print fantastic out of the box but I was a little disappointed that they claim to include their own software, slicer. And they do not. Or they did not on my edition. I was able to upload the driver to the computer. But it is not listed as a printer under Cura. So I’m not sure what to load it up as. Everybody says just use ender three settings. Haven’t tried that. Make sure you adjust the bed adjustment wheels and the adjustment wheel for the extruder itself. They did not come adjusted from the factory. It was trying to strip the belt right off the rip. So I tightened the belts and tightened and loosened where necessary the roller wheel adjustment cams. That immediately made a huge difference.

Another amazing company name brought to you by Amazon! 😂

This printer looks amazing, I have the Prusa Mk3S and it was such a hassle putting it together not only that it cost 3-4 times more expensive than any current printers in the market, print quality are minimal compared to others and it's way too loud.

Did they allow you to keep the printer?

Your video demonstrates the technique most manufacturers use, certainly better than 99.43% of the other KZbinrs who have horrible technique, viz., using pressure on the cotton swabs. Even some manufacturer’s techniques are questionable. I cringe when I see those lousy techniques. However, you noted you have some scratches on the reflection mirror, indicating that nor matter how careful one is, y’ar gonna apply too much pressure and scratch the surfaces. One other point is that most manufacturers are now using highly polished metal to reflect the beam (instead of a glass mirror); that is a significant improvement because metal does not scratch so easily. However, what if you can clean your lens (and mirror) without touching it? Here is that I do; this technique has allowed me to use my lenses for 4-5 years before replacing. The need to replace is from heavy duty / high power lasering which is going to eventually degrade the lens coating. I do what optometrists do when they clean glasses: use an ultrasonic cleaning machine water bath with, literally, a drop or two of Dawn (is best) dishwashing soap in the water. Small ultrasonic machines on eBay can be had for $40-50 and are the great - but get one large enough to clean eye glasses. The ultrasonic action really only works on metal and glass surface that are contaminated with a greasy residue; in a nutshell, the ultrasonic wave “blows up” the fat molecule. The ultrasonic action just “pops” off all the crude without any physical touching of the lens. And if you wear glasses, there is no better way than an ultrasonic bath-better than any lens cleaning solution could ever be: mostly they just remove about 80% of the grease and smear the rest of the grease to a thinner layer. It is best to avoid even using cotton to dry the laser lens. Oddly, the laser’s lens coating appears to be somewhat hydrophobic: the water generally rubs off like water off a duck’s back. If you cut wood, this is about the only practical way to remove the resins emitted when wood is cut (or engraved). A couple other points, while the laser lenses are not the quality Nikon, Canon, Leica, etc., would sell, always use lens cleaning paper from a “real” photography store; mostly it should be used to blot any water left on the lens after an ultrasonic bath: touch the thin, fine paper to the lens and let absorb any lingering liquid. Also, while at the photo store, pick up some real lens cleaning fluid: if it is good enough for a $8,000 lens, it is better for an engraver lens. I sometimes use the cotton swab as my “stick” to better control the flimsy paper. As noted, use a effortless, perhaps rolling motion, pressure on the lens paper that is the only thing touching the lens. This may seem like a rather absurd cleaning technique for a laser engraver lens, but, as a photograph this is just part of the process. A couple other things… To avoid frustration when unscrewing the lens / mirror assembly, lay an old T-shirt on the laser table. So, if (read: when) you drop the screw, it is falling down were it can easily be retrieved - and seen. Additionally, I always have a large bottle cap (from a peanut butter jar, etc.) to hold the screws in one place, off to the side; putting a magnet in the cap (or using a magnetic dish) will more securely hold the screws. Thus, even if you bump the screw container, it will not flip over. Personally, I like to know if a screw is magnetic or not; it is a lot safer / easier to use a magnetic screw driver - which only works if screws are attracted to a magnetic. Do NOT over tighten the screws; they are small and have fine threads that can be easily stripped. A nice snug tightening is fine. Also, know that sometimes those screws are made of aluminum (usually the non-magnetic screws). Those little suckers strip way to easily - so why in the heck do they use ‘em…? Oh, I know why… One final point about the lens… After a “dirty” job of engraving acrylic, wood, etc. - stuff that causes a lot of airborne debris that loves to land / stick on lenses, it is nice brush off the lens. I have used the really fine makeup brush to gently push off stuff on the lens. The makeup brushes seem / feel like they have some kind of coating or maybe the super soft fake fibers just feel that way. I also bought a high end artists brush at Michael’s (who always have a 50% coupon); so that $20 paint brush only costs $10. The artist brushes have nice, long handles that the “stubby” makeup brushes use, but these are good for tight areas. These brushes are super soft and it is impossible to scratch a lens with them. Furthermore, I also use a better quality small paint brush or heavier artist acrylic brush to dust off other areas of the laser engraver. There is virtually nothing inside the laser that could be damaged with the bristles of a brush. I even use this to “dust off” the encoding strip before I clean it with cotton swabs: do not use a cleaner for that. The magnetic strips are easily damaged with alcohol or other cleaning solutions. A highly diluted soap solution is best (2-3 drops of soap in an 8oz squeeze bottle). The pre-brushing action should remove most debris so that the cotton swab only has to remove the really fine stuff that could interfere with electronic lasering signals. Also, when you remove the lens / mirror assembly, examine it every once in a while with at least a 5-10 power magnifying glass, and move the assembly back and forth to allow various reflecting angles to reveal what cannot easily be seen with the naked eye. Using a magnifying glass allows one to better see the lens coating that is starting to deteriorate or a seemingly minor scratch that affects the quality of the laser beam more than many know / believe.

I'll tell you why not to get this printer. parts, My printer came leaking plastic. and I see hotends all over the internet for Ender and many other cheap printers but nothing for this printer. before the printer arrived I emailed support about parts twice and got no reply. so I try to pause the printer every 8 minutes to clean off the leak but it resumes in a future place as if the printer is still sending commands or something. Make sure you square it in the z-axis. I had planned to add another screw because it moves some in the bracket.

This is exactly the same as my Xington S1. even the screen commands. have you updated the firmware to marlin yet?

And where did u get $90 coupon right now on Amazon its 254 with 15 coupon

woohoo!

Any chance you have a link to the USB driver for the f3?

Short, and to the point! See you on Saturday!

I checked their website and it supposed to be able to print TPU. Could you please do a test seeing if it will print ninjaflex? I'm in the market to buy a few printers if they can print ninjaflex. Thank you.

I wanted to like this printer, However I don't recommend it. After leveling and making a perfect demo vase ( which was too small and sliced too slow), I tried to slice a new print, I had to use their provided cura. Then when tried to print the printer lost the leveling, as if the firmware settings got corrupted. ALSO it didn't home and went in wrong direction and I had to power off to reset it. I couldn't get leveling to work the 2nd time, as if the end stop position is way off. The printer hit the bed and it got damaged during the 2nd print. I would STAY AWAY from this printer until they resolve their firmware issues. I recommend Biqu B1 for now or creality because of large community and support. I recent bought BIQU B1 and running side by side with the Fokoos. Also, the heated bed has very small insulation underneath, and it takes a lot more time to get hot, Unlike the Biqu B1 which is covered up to the leveling knobs. A couple of cons on the BB1, there is no 2nd Z motor, and the fan noise is horrendously annoying, I had to cover it up, until I replace it.

Hopefully we can get the Wi-Fi enabled and working without too much fuss! I saw the icon on the touch screen and was all excited and then it didn't do anything, lol.

$90 coupon now $50

How easy would it be to add auto bed leveling?

If you have any questions, or want information on a specific part of the machine, please feel free to ask here in the comments and I'll try my best to answer. ( This is an early release/preview of the product -- their website is even still under construction -- www.fokoos.com )

I'm still looking forward to seeing the videos on the upgrade and how you did it. It would be valuable to me to see the initial videos you did upgrading using the stock control board as that is what I still have but if you have the other videos ready I'll still take that :) Just letting you know I keep checking back almost daily for the videos you mentioned you would post weeks ago :) eagerly/impatiently waiting

This is pretty awesome

How much did you have to spend?

Exactly the video I was looking for - Many thanks mate. Cheers. Jim

Where can buy this ??

Where's part 2? Did you die?

Part twoo

HAHAHAHAHA! The bong is back!" - maker 2020

Me stuck using a 2008 iMac, ok. When i inevitably upgrade, Oh no, *finds video again* Oh yeah!!!

Hey! Any ETA on Part 2 of this?

That's a windows computer !!!!!!!

I loved this video man, the music is really loud or your mic audio is really quiet though. Keep up the great designs, I love the "dance high voltage" lolol

It also applies for the 2018+ MacBooks

If i may, when you where at the "two minutes to go" mark, you should of added the butter and a tablespoon of heavy cream and whisk vigorously until having the consistency of creamy out-meal. Tradition would dictate serving it on toast points fried in butter with crust cut off.

I did this to mine and it worked! Unfortunately, my iMac doesn’t have a T2 chip, so it didn’t play your startup sound, even though I got my 27-inch iMac around the beginning of 2019

1:02 Ahahahaha

i switched to a gaming pc i get no sounds :(

That also applies to all 2016-2020 macs

Hello man ! Great job can you update the part 2 of the cr10 update ? Thanks

wow it actually worked!

I gotta love your “evil scientist” laugh :3

He feels bad not catching the ball. Poor bottie. Try again

The return of the king

I love this book. Thank you for reading it.

That startup sound is way better than the startup sound of the original iMac (even though it's technically the same according to MacTracker, it's just the T2 chip that causes the distortion and lower pitch)

The chime is at 1:02. You’re welcome!

It may sound different. (but it's the lower frequency, the sound file is not low pitched.)

Lol your so lucky i always wanted a mac xd

the bong sounds more depressing

The new bong tho is lower pitched than the old one

Your laugh is hilarious, like a witch found out a new spell :)