Unboxing / Review of the FoKoos Odin5-F3 3D Printer

[@KarlandKristy]

I didn’t even get the stringing on the Benchy. But then again I did go through the leveling process five times and I also used the smooth glass side of the bed instead of the corrugated side. I find that all of my prints on all of my printers work better with mirrors or smooth glass. My first boat off of this was completely perfect. Not one single imperfection. Just redo your leveling a couple, three times. And yes it does print fantastic out of the box but I was a little disappointed that they claim to include their own software, slicer. And they do not. Or they did not on my edition. I was able to upload the driver to the computer. But it is not listed as a printer under Cura. So I’m not sure what to load it up as. Everybody says just use ender three settings. Haven’t tried that. Make sure you adjust the bed adjustment wheels and the adjustment wheel for the extruder itself. They did not come adjusted from the factory. It was trying to strip the belt right off the rip. So I tightened the belts and tightened and loosened where necessary the roller wheel adjustment cams. That immediately made a huge difference.

[@MartinBogomolni]

This was literally just the unboxing video. Since then I've done quite a lot with the Odin... Firmware is now Marlin 2.0-Bugfix and I'm running the Marlin TFT-UI instead of LVGL ( which gives me Advanced Pause amongst other things ). I added a BL-Touch by hacking into the factory harness and moved the mounting from the side to the front of the toolhead. The glass bed has been replaced with a FYSTEC flexible steel magnetic bed, and then I replaced the nozzle with a hardened steel volcano nozzle. Overall, it has massively improved the machine for me... and the prints come out perfect every time. ( I use PrusaSlicer as my main slicer, OctoPrint + OctoDash to control the machine with a 7" display, and print PLA+, PETG, and HIPS with ease. )

[@TheMakersWorkshop]

If you have any questions, or want information on a specific part of the machine, please feel free to ask here in the comments and I'll try my best to answer. ( This is an early release/preview of the product -- their website is even still under construction -- www.fokoos.com )

[@JackWeaver]

Any idea where the firmware source code is? I tried that dropbox link but it's gone now :)

[@MobileDecay]

Another amazing company name brought to you by Amazon! 😂

[@MartinBogomolni]

True enough -- but saying "Amazon" is very similar to saying "eBay" these days -- it's a huge marketplace.

[@zero00tolerance]

This printer looks amazing, I have the Prusa Mk3S and it was such a hassle putting it together not only that it cost 3-4 times more expensive than any current printers in the market, print quality are minimal compared to others and it's way too loud.

[@KcinTSM]

Did they allow you to keep the printer?

[@TheMakersWorkshop]

I wanted to do some extended development of Marlin ( and help them properly open source the firmware )... so I continue to have the printer here on "extended loan" as I continue to develop and support the community.

[@KeeferTech]

Hopefully we can get the Wi-Fi enabled and working without too much fuss! I saw the icon on the touch screen and was all excited and then it didn't do anything, lol.

[@TheMakersWorkshop]

Well, here's what I've found out. If you purchase the correct ESP-12s board ( pins to either side, not the one with 8 pins on the end of the board ) and flash it with the correct MKS firmware, it does "just work." BUT ... there is always a BUT ... It's trapped inside a metal case. One of the reasons that companies like Prusa and Creality have put the WiFi adapter in the separate control panel box is so that the wifi signal can get out. Since the MKS Robin Nano v1.2 board is inside the case, and under the unit ... the wifi signal is very weak. You get the convenience of wifi, but only if your computer is right next to the printer. I'm working on a kit which will solve that. It will consist of a PC board with the right pinout for the MKS, a 3D printed plastic case for the ESP-12s board, and a cable that leads outside the printer case. On the other hand! You can also, for about the same amount of money ( $35 or so ) simply purchase a Raspberry Pi 3b or 4, and install Octopi and plug it into the printer's USB port. Easier, and less messy overall. Plus no modifying the printer or taking it apart! Bonus.

[@KeeferTech]

@@TheMakersWorkshop wow! Yeah, I wondered if it wouldn't block the signal. I will just wait and see what pops up. Maybe if you get something ready to go and sell them.

[@TheMakersWorkshop]

@@KeeferTech Well, I usually try to open source mods like this and set up a bill of materials anyone can source from sources like Amazon and the like.

[@tommydoh]

This is exactly the same as my Xington S1. even the screen commands. have you updated the firmware to marlin yet?

[@TheMakersWorkshop]

It is Marlin, using the LVGL graphic touch option, running on an MKS Robin Nano 1.2 board. FoKoos gave me source, however I compiled the MKS version just fine after adjusting pins.h appropriately. My GitHub is: github.com/martinbogo/Marlin-2.0-for-Odin-5-F3

[@TheMakersWorkshop]

... addendum. I had a look online at the www.xtzl3d.com/ and looked for "Xington" then "Xingtong" Looks like a much earlier revision of the printer, with a bowden setup rather than direct drive. In China, there are a /lot/ of OEM rebranded manufacturers and resellers. Usually like this, with small changes made in logo, color, and features.

[@tommydoh]

@@TheMakersWorkshop mines a month old and have had vastly superior prints than any of my other much more expensive printers, first thing I did btw, was change the case fan for a much more quieter one. Superb

[@ryankelly7406]

And where did u get $90 coupon right now on Amazon its 254 with 15 coupon

[@TheMakersWorkshop]

The original coupon was $90, then $50, then $25 ... they were limited time offers.

[@highwaymen1237]

I checked their website and it supposed to be able to print TPU. Could you please do a test seeing if it will print ninjaflex? I'm in the market to buy a few printers if they can print ninjaflex. Thank you.

[@TheMakersWorkshop]

Already did! It prints TPU fairly well, given that the printer uses a pinchwheel setup. As always make sure to go SLOW, as with any TPU. Also, I wouldn't try to print anything softer than .. say .. shore30 without a dual-drive extruder.

[@dsmithwc04]

Any chance you have a link to the USB driver for the f3?

[@TheMakersWorkshop]

The USB driver is the standard CH340G driver. I can't link here ( KZbin doesn't allow links to .exe or .zip files ) but you can easily find it on Google.

[@bribeck12]

How easy would it be to add auto bed leveling?

[@TheMakersWorkshop]

It looks like the printer is designed to have WiFi added easily ( it used a standard MKS Robin Nano v1.2 board -- so you'd use an MKS Wifi board - ESP-12s breakout ) and the molded plastic hood over the hotend is literally DESIGNED to have a BL-Touch/3D-Touch aftermarket part added. The company representative says that they are both working/packaging a kit and selling the printer with auto bed leveling. That said -- it was one of the simplest manual-level operations, and the benchmark benchy came out beautifully. It's a very precise machine all around.

[@bribeck12]

@@TheMakersWorkshop thanks for the information.

[@TheMakersWorkshop]

@@bribeck12 I am now compiling Marlin 2.0 ( from the Makerbase GitHub link for the Robin MKS v1.2 board ) with BL-Touch auto-level support. Although I think FoKoos is working on implementing it more neatly through the ribbon cables, I'm going to see if there are signals on the wire I can use to connect the BL-Touch servo and limit switch emulation to the board through the current setup -- or if I'll need to wire it separately.

[@bribeck12]

@@TheMakersWorkshop awesome thanks just ordered the machine. And I do have a spare bltouch clone to install. Would love to not have to run exta wires and use the ribbon cable. Keep me posted please. Or even for now if manual mesh level can be activated with a new compiled firmware that would help too.

[@TheMakersWorkshop]

@Brian Beckwith You can easily get manual mesh leveling working with a recompile, although I do think it's a tiny PITA to do that and it only gives marginal benefit over manual four corner leveling. Here's the link to the Marlin 2.0 source used by FoKoos: www.igotu.com/downloads/FOKOOS-Mks-Robin-Nano-Marlin2.0-Firmware-master.rar?dl=0

[@renderuthis]

I'll tell you why not to get this printer. parts, My printer came leaking plastic. and I see hotends all over the internet for Ender and many other cheap printers but nothing for this printer. before the printer arrived I emailed support about parts twice and got no reply. so I try to pause the printer every 8 minutes to clean off the leak but it resumes in a future place as if the printer is still sending commands or something. Make sure you square it in the z-axis. I had planned to add another screw because it moves some in the bracket.

[@renderuthis]

Support said "Generally, no additional maintenance is required, unless you are very careless in using it Alisa"

[@renderuthis]

Now I'm searching for the Firmware. The control board is inside so I can not see it, Windows does not see the printer with the installed firmware. does not see the sd card.

[@chadizdroid]

I wanted to like this printer, However I don't recommend it. After leveling and making a perfect demo vase ( which was too small and sliced too slow), I tried to slice a new print, I had to use their provided cura. Then when tried to print the printer lost the leveling, as if the firmware settings got corrupted. ALSO it didn't home and went in wrong direction and I had to power off to reset it. I couldn't get leveling to work the 2nd time, as if the end stop position is way off. The printer hit the bed and it got damaged during the 2nd print. I would STAY AWAY from this printer until they resolve their firmware issues. I recommend Biqu B1 for now or creality because of large community and support. I recent bought BIQU B1 and running side by side with the Fokoos. Also, the heated bed has very small insulation underneath, and it takes a lot more time to get hot, Unlike the Biqu B1 which is covered up to the leveling knobs. A couple of cons on the BB1, there is no 2nd Z motor, and the fan noise is horrendously annoying, I had to cover it up, until I replace it.

[@TheMakersWorkshop]

Hi. Sounds like you have a loose connection on the Z-axis IR endstop, or an issue with tram/level of the X axis. This printer does not have automatic leveling, so it cannot 'lose level' ... but if the Z endstop failed or has a loose or broken connection I would expect the symptoms you describe. Did you reach out to FoKoos on their Facebook group or over Amazon? They have been responsive and polite about taking care of customers and resolving issues. Any new product out of the box can, unfortunately, get damaged in shipment. It's part of why I put anything I get through it's paces and thoroughly look over things immediately after shipping. For more resources, community feedback, and help head to: facebook.com/groups/fokoos

[@johnnysmoothcanton]

I have 3 and work flawless out the box after bed leveling.

[@jameskiely5518]

$90 coupon now $50

[@TheMakersWorkshop]

Interesting... I still see a $90 coupon online. I'll ask if I can get a referral link from FoKoos for a while longer.

[@jameskiely5518]

@@TheMakersWorkshop please and thank you

[@jameskiely5518]

@@TheMakersWorkshop seems coupon is gone now😔

[@TheMakersWorkshop]

​@@jameskiely5518 The $50 coupon is on there ( I just verified that in my browser here ) but the coupon _is_ time and quantity limited. It will run out.

[@TheMakersWorkshop]

The $50 coupon is now $35... however, look to my next video for a giveaway!