At your age you wont probably hear anything above 10 khz, so why worry about the roll off.

👍

The fact that people don't realize that dirty fan blades will slow down the air movement is wild to me. The blades are angled such that they push air forward and then need to spin at a certain rate to do that and any dust collection on the blades or dirt that built up will surely slow down the fan blades from moving as fast and the more dust buildup on the fan blades the more that can accumulate on top of that so it's best to keep the blades clean along with the plastic guards on the front and back and it's good to lubricate the motor, but it's better if you blow it out first and it's really better if you take the three screws out that hold the motor together and open it up slightly and clean out the dust and gunk that's in there be careful though you don't wanna move anything loose or hitting your wires and unfastened anything you should be good though if you just take like a paintbrush and brush it through there and get the dirt out use the air hose with the nozzle like he is in this video. i'm no expert That anything really I'm just a handyman of sorts. you say you're pretty handy in this video and you say you don't give up easy and no disrespect, but you questioned whether or not the dirt buildup on the fan blades would affect its performance. Are you serious? Maybe you just said that out loud by accident and you weren't thinking I'll give you that because there's no way you didn't know that I can't accept that lol anyway not trying to give anybody a hard time. I just had to scratch my head at that one like what anyway great video. Hope people learned a lot here.

just have to clean them and keep them lubricated and they will last forever .

John, the more I watch you, the more I have the feeling you're an engineer who got into woodworking, not the other way round. Am I right? All the best from Switzerland, Rob (physicist/engineer).

Use on the market cheap and good tpa3255 chips or better yet just buy a bunch a fosi v3 amps and jerry rig them together with plans for ppl to replicate.

It is would be best to have both dampening on the panel like nores to reduce panel vibrations and lower freq plus wool stuffing to reduce reflection at higher freq.

Watching all that soldering induced in me a very strong sense of the smell of soldering, which in turn was very nostalgic for me. Something super nostalgic about smells.

Can I ask a stupid question for dummies? Can I have a two speakers opposite of each other in an open baffle cabinet? I'll make it simple. I have 2 mini guitar amplifiers and I want to put them in an open back frame with the two speakers from each amp to be opposite of each other meaning one faces the front and one faces the back. Is there any benefit or deficit to this suggestion? THANKS

Very cool!

Do I need 3D glasses for the 3D printer to work? Asking for a friend... 😅🤣😂

Nicely done.

Nice work

Looks great John. 4ohm or 8ohm? How many watts and how did it measure?

Looks like a fun project. Did it sound good too?

I did immediately guess it ;) But that's because I've also done a couple of 3D printed amp cases myself, really fun designing and printing them! Two tips is to play around with fuzzy skin, can give a nice a a bit of a matte/rough surface, and/or just sand it down quite a bit in just one direction and then spray paint it with a metal colour to give it a brushed metal look ^^

Big mistake connect like this PSU. Also, 58VDC for LM is way too much. Or is it +/-28VDC...

Very cool!

som impressive!

Wow! Excellent build!

I think you are possibly confusing “guess” with “care.”

OMG, I couldn't guess how you made this, lol. Love the clickbait title. Keep up the great work John.

Great job!

Beautiful work, John! It turned out fantastic! 😃 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

Pretty sweet, why do you think you got into 3d printing but never really cot into that small cnc router you got a long while back?

I am very impressed with your industrial design capability. More thought went into the casing than I expected from any DIYer. Nice design John.

I think you’ll get more views if you put ‘3D printed’ on the title of the video

Nice

What a great idea. I was measuring and browsing and remeasuring and browsing for a fitting case for my STC-1000 temp controller... but you made everything perfectly fitting to the ACTUAL dimensions you needed!!! :D Awesome John.

I think the experiment was successful ) Would you proceed to casting aluminum into a form made with 3d printed model? For me it would be cheaper than to order a CNCed parts from the Chinese service if you would need a "high end" amplifier case. May be you won't need it at all but as an experiment - why not?

Looks great! What tools do you use to design the parts. The change costs of tools has me changing design software often which makes me loose interest as have to learn new software to just make a part. Makes me go back to metal and a file.

If you have trouble with case, it will be sagging from heat of the transformer, as it is heavy and gets warm. I used PETG and have trouble, hopefully abs is better, maybe I should reprinting parts in ABS.

You upgraded your printer. How you liking it? I've been thinking of getting the P1P or P1S. That X1C looks real nice but beyond my needs.

What do you listen to in your listening room? I love to imagine it's that dark electronic stuff thats over the assembly section of the video. hah!

That’s my kind of diy project, way cool!

you don't need mouse ears that tall, 1-2 layers suffice, and they break away by hand. And i think Bambu studio (but not orca slicer) finally implemented manual placing of them

Thanks for sharing.

The future of DIY is here today: 3D printing. The huge advantage is the complexity of the parts that can be made, giving you complete freedom if you are able to design the parts. I used FreeCad to model the case for this amp and printed it on my Bambu Lab X1C All of it was made from ABS plastic which is durable and heat resistant, and the whole thing used less than 2lbs of filament. The amps are a standard implementation of the LM3886 and run on a +/- 29 VDC supply, putting out roughly 40 watts per channel. The LM3886 is regarded as a high quality audiophile grade part for high fidelity reproduction. Translation from audiophile lingo: they sound great. The amp is dead silent at idle, even sitting inside a non-metal case. Like I said in the video, I finished building this amp months ago and have been using it every day since then. The 3D printed parts have held up perfectly and are exactly the same as when I made it. Some of the parts were a bit rougher than I'd normally allow, but this was mostly a test to see how well a 3D printed amplifier case would hold up. To do it over I'd take more time to fix any cosmetic issues to produce a better fit and finish.

John, with all due respect you should re-read Toole's book, Sound Reproduction Loudspeakers and Rooms. In his book he has said nothing to do with what you explain, especially about 500 Hz and below. You should understand what Spinorama is, also called CEA 2034. It does not agree with what you explain.

You could have saved a lot of time and money had you known about a small DIY device the size of a CD that acts like a diffuser, and suppresses the comb effect. It is a French invention, called the Brodule. I made a web page on it, in French and English, explaining how it works and how to make it. If you are willing to spend a few hours to make it, have a try! I can assure you it works, when placed properly.

Hi John, and thanks so much for sharing your experience, to which I can fully relate. (And, btw, I'm from Italy, so forgive my english 😊) I find it very useful, exchanging experiences, impressions, insights and suggestions about the annoying problem of hearing loss. Listening to your story was like seeing myself in a mirror... I have the same moderate hearing loss, my curve dips around 1-2Khz and then curiously rises again around 3-4Khz after which it fades away for good 😬 I'm also into music (both listening, singing and playing), and also electronics and audio equipment hobbyist, so I'm "aware" of audio principles and problems, and very curious about learning and experimenting on hearing problems. Of course, being my loss centered around the speaking range, the main problem is an impaired intelligibility especially of female voices (although my wife deems it being "selective deafness" 😂) in situations where a low-mid freq. background noise is present, like in crowded places or in a car. And usually I have a hard time in explaining to others that I don't need them shouting when I don't get something since it is not a volume issue, but just need them to spell clearly, separating the words, changing the phrasing instead of repeating the same sentence and, possibly, not turning their backs meanwhile... I've tried too seeing an audiologist, and had a free-trial, of a pair of state-of-the-art, custom-cast digital DSP devices with all bells and whistles. A series of adjusting session followed, trying to compensate the unnatural shrill and piercing high-pitch effect that you exactly described. Just having someone in the same room opening a bag of chips or collecting tableware from the dishwasher made me clench my teeth. Also listening to music was a pain. But, as you found out, the audiologist was more focused in speech tests rather than in patient's comfort and subjective needs and feedbacks. They tried different adjustments, and to my unsatisfied reports they kept answering that I needed to "get used" to that feeling, made even more unnatural, almost bionic, by the earpieces being of fully-occlusive type, thus cutting out all the "natural" ambient sounds, delegating the whole perception to the mic/speaker chain, despite the fact that I still have a good (and natural) perception of mid-low frequencies. So, weighing the pros and (many) cons eventually I gave up, returned the trial devices (that would have costed some 2k$ a piece) and took some time to think about the situation. Now, being a hands-on tech guy, I couldn't resist to try the approach that would cost you a good scolding from any audiologist... DIY 😬 So, after reviewing what's on the on-line market, I went for a pair of fully programmable retroauricolar devices, a sub-brand of a well known firm, for about 100$ each, so no big loss in case of a failed experiment 🙂 And yes, retroauricolar pieces aren't that stylish or "invisible", but I wanted to check the results first, especially being free to tweak them at will instead of depending from an audiologist for every small adjustment. And, not bad at all! The devices come with an app enabling you to draw your personal curve following the chart plotted by the audiologist and, in case, changing it a bit to suit your perception. Also, while wearing them, you can change on the fly the "comfort" settings like volume and hi/lo frequency boost/attenuation to cut off possible Larsen effects and suit specific ambiental situation like speech, concert, cinema or a quiet and relaxing home evening where there's no need for "boom" amplification. And, as a bonus, the ear plugs are vented, so external "natural" sounds are not blocked and the ear canal can breathe a little. Overall a nice experience, on par to much more expensive devices, and an acceptable trade-off given that I don't wear the devices 24h but only when needed.

Hi, John, I remember you asked in a video whether or not we, your audience, would consider a speaker like this, and would buy it. I was, and am still interested in a DIY plan for them. Is that in the works?

Is there a ratio for the distance from the front wall and the distance from the speakers to the listening position that is ideal for open baffle mid range? Also no diffraction panels behind the speakers or especially there?

I wouldn’t go anywhere near a horny guide’s phase plug!

Great video - I am in the process... Doing research now on what is available and understand human hearing and the tech available. As I am highly technical, I will understand the tech, but what makes good human hearing - the audiologist you work with. Again - great video.

Could you add 2 more woofers and cut the box size in half again?

open baffle natural sound is unbeateble .... hands down ...

You must be an audiophile-- you claim to only be in it for the music.... spoken like an audiophile! 😆

Great help for all Thanks